Seconding that Flux is a great program for people with sensitive vision. I'd give it a shot on your current monitor and see if it might make your choice any easier.
I haven't tried any overclocking yet, but I wanted to report that I just unlocked all four cores of my X2 555 with CACAC AC stepping. I'm currently running IBT high stress level x10 to test, but it had no issues at standard level x10.
*edit* -
Motherboard - GIGABYTE GA-790XT-USB3
RAM - A-Data...
I've had a Ratpadz XT for a few years now. It tracked well, but eventually wore down a bit, and warped for seemingly no reason as well. It was also a bit rough on my mouse skates, but after reading this thread, I'm sure some Pledge would have fixed that. I now use it for when I'm trying to game...
My only issue is with my Inspiron 9400 with an X1400 card. I'm having to use Vista video drivers, and whenever the laptop comes out of sleep mode, Windows thinks I have dual monitors and resets my resolution to 1024x768. I have to wait about 5 minutes and try to detect displays to fix it...
I got one last week (returned a Sceptre 32") and I love it. No dead pixels, no noticeable lag (unlike the Sceptre, ugh), no dead pixels, and the image seems to be much sharper as well. So far I'm VERY happy with the purchase.
As for the connection, I'm using a standard Rosewill HDMI to DVI cable.
$70 for...
-Faster and (probably) more OC'ing potential
-A cooler that will work instead of having to go aftermarket
-Crysis instead of Crap Wars
-I'm stepping up to the 9 series anyway, so does it really even matter?
Strength increases attack power for warriors (2AP per 1 Str), while Agility increases their crit, dodge, and hit rating (ranged AP too, but it's worthless for them).
It didn't state whether it was 2 sticks or 1 like on most builds, just if it was 533 or 677, so I took the chance. If it's 2 sticks, I'm just going yank and sell them, and replace it with 2 1GB sticks. 1GB will be perfectly fine for the time being anyway, as my desktop is my main gaming rig still.
Got 25% off a Inspiron 9400, which knocked off almost $400.
17" XGA+
C2D T7200
GeForce GO 7900GS
1GB RAM (will buy another stick from Newegg for about half of Dell's price)
80gig HD
$1277 after tax.
Received mine yesterday and I'm very happy with it. The only backlight leakage is very minor and only in the top right corner, and I have a single stuck pixel in the bottom right corner that's never noticeable unless you put your face up the screen and look for it.
Now I just have to take...
It's great to see that they're bringing the old design back that people loved so much, but until they bring out a revised version of the 1.1, I'm going to stick with my original 1.1a that still works. With the way I hold mice, I just can't game with anything that isn't ambidexstrous and light...
I finally received my E6400 yesterday and finished building my system. On stock speeds, this board runs silky smooth, but I'm going to wait for an official 714 bios to start doing any real overclocking, as it's not doing too hot on the shipped bios.
I've been using the 1.1a for... 6 or so years now (I think I got it for my 18th birthday, and I turned 24 last month), and when I used the 1.1SE, I really couldn't tell the difference. I've used well over 100 different mice over the years, and much like Sobek said, I just can't find one that...
It will work for low oc's, but it's a really poor performer in general. For $20 you can get a heatsink that will blow it away, or for $35 shipped you can get a Scythe Ninja which is by far the best on the market for the money.
Unless the price difference is large, I always go with retail for the extra warranty and other things included. Retail C2D is only running $5-10 more than OEM in most places anyway.
I've been dead set on getting an E6600 for two months now, but gave in and ordered an E6400 retail from ewiz.com a few minutes ago, since I'll be oc'ing it anyway. I figure I'll put the extra $100 towards a new LCD.
Off the top of my head, I believe the problem was with P965 boards (mainly the Gigabytes) not POST'ing with ram that wasn't 1.8v (I think Corsair was the only stuff that worked correctly out of the box). The problem on most boards was fixed by bootingwith a cheap stick of 1.8v cas5, then going...