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Wow crazy, there was one in each of my six partitions. No sign of any u.bat, v.vbe, or uda.a, but I deleted everything else. Hopefully that's the end of it. Thanks Azhar and Cobalt for the prompt help. Time to go have a word with the lab admin.

I may have brought it home on my USB drive from the campus computer lab. ServerNet.exe spreads itself to all my root drives and autoruns itself and mspaint.exe which tries to access the internet. Another one resides in C:\Program Files\Common Files\Microsoft Shared\MSInfo which cannot be...

nice, *awaiting Q6600 prices to drop.*

I do. Before now I had no idea that existed. HD Tune results don't change with write caching disabled.

I don't have any captures of SD04 results, but it's pretty much the same.

I just received an SD04 from NCIX and the model name did show up correctly. After I flashed to AD14, neither the performance (fast) or the 0KB cache changed.

XP120 would be much better. And you can most likely undervolt that baby to run cooler. My Manchester is running at 1.2V and 2.4GHz. My ram is messed up so I haven't stretched its legs past 2.4GHz.

Go it old-school; forget the duct and point that 80mm fan exhausting out the back. I prefer my normal ATX cases to intake through the front and exhaust through the back and top. Besides, having that rear fan as an intake will suck a ton of dust onto your CPU.

They left out the Megapixel War. I DESPIIIISE what it has done to point&shoot cameras.

Cut a hole beside your power supply to sneak wires behind the motherboard.

Any vouches for the Thermalright SI-128SE?

My X2 3800+ Manchester is stable at 1.2V and 2400MHz (stock is 1.35V, 2.0GHz), so I actually overclocked and undervolted. I'm still reducing power consumption and heat output. Without messing with underclocking, you can first try enabling Cool&Quiet which lowers the cpu clock speed when...

Way to go Eclipse! It's been two years since my first build, and I you are still my #1 source of OC information.

lol, "sinking ship"... Did Shea Hillenbrand get to AMD?

I'm planning to build a new rig within the next few months, but Core 2 Duo is still a bit pricey for me. How much of a steal would a Brisbane 4000+ be at $115 CAD? It's weird because the 3600+ is $120 CAD. My head says to wait for C2D prices to drop, but my superego wants this deal now.:confused:

I just sent my Neo480 in for RMA. It is dead after one and a half years of hotness.

You should read the help file, it has recommendations on which mode to use in different situations. I myself use Complete/Name and Space for regular defragging.

Make sure any automatic fan controller features are enabled in the BIOS. For example on an Asus board, Qfan would need to be enabled for speedfan to work.

This'll take some modding: http://homes.esat.kuleuven.be/~athomas/blackbox/silenced6600gt.html

Neat stuff, I really need to try it for myself sometime. For those of you who don't know what HDR is about, it basically involves taking the same shot at three different exposures then combining them with Photoshop into one picture that has superior colour depth.

If you've bought your venice recently, then it's most likely that you have an E6 venice (find out for sure with CPU-Z), which shares the same core as the Athlon X2's. eclipse has one and so do I. The only difference between us is that I hit 2.4GHz with only 1.425V while his E6 needed around...

Coolermaster LED fans are pretty quiet. Advertised 1200rpm, 42cfm @ 22dba. Sleeve bearing so no vibrations.

Despite the high price tag, I do think the S80 is a decent camera. A nice wide but slow lens, solid build, good controls, and very good image quality at low ISO's. But as with most Canons, don't use the AiAF and you'll be fine. And it doesn't hurt to post-process your pics. Review

Yea I noticed your same OP on the dpreview forum. Think about the marketing, which has a huge influence on the features each Fuji camera gets. Sure the new A series utilizes the SuperCCD with a max ISO of 400, but they are supposed to be entry level cameras. Fuji wouldn't want its entry models...

The only real benefit with the S2IS is the super zoom lens with image stabilizer. The A610 has pretty much the same feature set plus a bigger LCD screen. So unless you're going to be shooting things far away, I recommend you stick with the A610.

heh, not with a P&S camera. ;)

The S2 IS is great with the exception of high noise at ISO's 200 and 400.

Thanks for the replies people. But opening up my comp to real viruses isn't very practical and consistant. That last suggestion from jonw757 is something like what I'm looking for, thanks.

My typical Photoshop workflow is: -Noise reduction (neat image) -Levels -Shadow/highlight -reverse USM (if necessary) -Curves -Resize -Smart sharpen -CA removal

The A610 and the A620 are essentially the same camera only with different number of megapixels and burst shooting modes. 5MP should be enough for your general usage, so no need to pay more for bigger images. I think it would be a nice upgrade from your D-545; the A610 has plenty of manual...

I will be testing a range of the current popular (and not so popular) anti-virus programs for a personal assignment. Could anyone recommend a safe and sterile virus simulator that will easily be detected and dealt with by most scanners? I’ve googled it and am not satisfied. I know this is a...

The OP asked about the AGP version of the 6600GT. In that case, both Arctic Silencers and Thermalright V1 will not fit due to the location of the GPU and the HSI chip. I would only suggest the Zalman VF700ALCU and leave the stock HSI bridge heatsink on.

Very neat, I still dream of the day when sci-fi holo displays are a common technology.

Could ACPI possibly be the power supply temp?

BenQ FP72G+S, one of the best TN panels I've seen in terms of picture quality.

NOD32 has so many things to configure in order to be thorough, which might confuse novice users. Otherwise it's an excellent program.

The F10's flash is quite strong and is not the best thing to use in a macro scenario like this one, that's why that pic looks wierd. As for settings, the F10 lacks shutter/aperture priority and full manual modes... which is why there's an F11 out there.

The F10 is the superior camera. It has a low noise SuperCCD suited for low-light shooting, an uber-sharp lens, and good colour reproduction. One tip for taking pictures, do not use flash when possible. The F10 has a shooting mode called Natural Light, which is automatic and flash-free with...

Look at the bright side, it's now a good time to buy a 20D when prices go down.

Fuji F10 or F11 if you can find it. One of the best compact cameras in terms of noise performance and image quality. Only e-store I can find the F11 in North America: http://www.prestigecamera.com/product~id~fjfpf11.htm