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Controllerless color displays are a pita. Someone needs to design a controller (USB interfaced ofcourse) and write software for it. You could take this to the LCDStudio forum where the LCD geeks hang out :D

Make sure your mobo has an LPT port ;)

Lucky b****** ;) hey i made a Digg RSS screen for my tiny 256x128 Noritake, i'll post a pic of it in your Studio forum topic. Also, i don't know what color your case will be, try car tinting foil on your VFD, it looks wicked; when off it's totally black mirror.

Blast, now i want one of those VFD too you know :)

Err, no that's not good, it should never light up like that. It only comes to life when you make some screens for it in LCDinfo. Check your wiring again!! I've got some screens made for that 311 for LCDinfo, gimme yer mail so i can send them (if i can find 'm)

1 - Correct 2 - Correct 3 - Yes >15 &16 left unconnected, and only connect the 3-pin +5V to the 4-pin +5V< 4 - Correct 5 - No need to connect any of the GROUND pins on the VFD header to the 3-way fan header GROUND. Basically leave all power pins on the header unconnected as the VFD is all...

20m / 1m ADSL2+ :cool: Orange The Netherlands :D

NOD32 ever since Symantec messed up theirs.

Check ebay for bigger VFD's with 40 character rows, i see them a lot. If you plan to use Smartie; there are some 'universal' USB piggybacks for HD44780 displays. MO's USB VFD's can do RSS with their LCDC software.

You needs IDC header and socket and some flatcable. http://www.futurlec.com/Connectors/HEADD14.shtml http://www.futurlec.com/Connectors/IDCC14.shtml

If you're ugly; don't get a glossy ;) *Luv my NEC20WGX2*

Yes running it here on a D940, previously a D830. Shouldn't be a problem.

Beware with some Maxtor's; they have issues with Nvidia chipset, had to update my DiamondMax 10 300GB firmware before i could use it with the P5N board Look here.

That one won't work the way we want it to; too big to control normally. According to the datasheet it can be hooked up to the VFC connector and used as a second monitor, looks to be nice display. @BellaCroix LCDStudio has an Aqua XML plugin, i've seen a design for it on the forum very nice...

Nope, perhaps in future versions.

Yes it would work with that display if only the author would write a driver for it, which incidentally has been discussed before in other realms and the answer is....no. :rolleyes:

Running an ASUS P5N32 (also NFoce) with a Raptor 74GB no problems. Maxtor DM10 300GB though does get detected but stalls the Windows boot. After some Googling it appeared to be a known issue :mad: Updated the Maxtor firmware and all is well now ;)

Damn i wished i was still at school, real life is way much harder ;) The Noritake U1J is a drop in replacement for HD44780 LCD's so it's pin compatible. No need for -24v supply voltage or whatever.

Yeah HD44780 is arguably the easiest LCD to hook up to LPT. For graphical LCD/VFD checkout LCDinfo, LCDStudio and Liquid-MP3 ;) And for LCD eyecandy checkout the LCD Gallery

http://lcdsmartie.sourceforge.net/circuits.htm The first schematic is the most common one used for HD44780 to LPT. Most LCD apps support that one.

Yeah ofcourse a lot of fun an experiment like that. Alternatively you can pickup a true HD44780 display on ebay for a couple of bucks. edit: i forgot to mention LCDinfo supports 4-bit HD44780 ;)

What would the LCD display if the PC is powered off :rolleyes: Unless it's a MO display on an internal USB header, but that would be harmful to have the text burning in when PC is off for a long time. You can also draw 5vsb from some mobo's onboard USB headers, my Gigabyte has that.

I'm also WC'ing a v1000 with an EVO 240 rad, it fits inside underneath the top but it'll seriously obstruct the mobo headers, and SLI is a no go then. It'll go on top for me.

Running my X2 4200 at 2419Mhz just by selecting 10% overclock in the BIOS :p . mobo ASUS A8V.

You can't use the inverter from the CCFL's tubes, you need a mini-inverter for EL panels something like this.

so you're planning to write your own software routines? Otherwise it's way easier to replace the LCD with a common one that can be controlled easily with existing LCD apps. What kinda LCD is it anyway, something like 4x20 character or 128x64 graphical?

http://gathering.tweakers.net/forum/list_messages/1058298///tardis ;)

This guy has some nice LED goodies: http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfrtsZ0QQfsooZ1QQfsopZ1QQsassZquickarelectronics Ready SMD LED strip: http://cgi.ebay.com/COMPLETE-12-WHITE-SUPER-FLUX-LEDS-LIGHT-STRIP-KIT_W0QQitemZ6011324616QQcategoryZ3240QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Matrix Orbital USB VFD, should look the bollocks. Can do more than just time too :D

It'll take some effort to drive it with that board. However the LCD itself looks like a 4x40 HD44780 display in which case you can wire it to LPT and use LCDsmartie or other common character LCD apps to drive it easily.

Matrix Orbital or Crystalfontz displays can hardly be called 'cheap' but are indeed the most convenient plug 'n play solutions. Alternatively you can score cheap character LCD"s on e-bay and wire them up yourself and use the plethora of character LCD-apps out there to drive them.

Nothing wrong with acrylic cases; just handle with care and be prepared for some serious cable management nightmare :p http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?s=&threadid=47083 http://www.xs4all.nl/~rccheng/

A lighter ofcoorz, gives you the most control. Just keep it moving then it won't make any burn marks.

If both sides have mating sockets for the Hirose cable, you might get a custom cable build. I believe that Hirose is FPC cable? You might try sampling from Hirose directly or google for FPC cable. Some FFC can be found here http://www.lc-design.de/shop/en/index.htm (flexfolien)

'xcuse me, my mistake; http://www.allelectronics.com/

:p so funny how everyone rants about Radio Shack, they THAT bad ? There must be tons of online shops selling switches like http://www.allelectronics.com/

Yes boss ;)

Well on the IDC connector side just use a 'quick ratcheting clamp' (Googled that one :) . On the LPT connector side just splice the ribbon cable (same cable as 40-way IDE flatcable) and solder them to the connector, for the 800a it's just 12 strands...