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yes all that was the first thing I checked. As I posted above it was all just retarded registry tweaks.

ah awesome. Thanks! That ALMOST fixed all of my problems. The last problem is that I still can't right click on anything on my Taskbar. I CAN right click on my desktop, I DO have Desktop icons now... but the taskbar is still dead to my right mouse button :( edit: Fixed it with another...

try logitech's FTP if you cant find it on their site.

anyone?

Update: I tried a plethora of registry fixes from http://www.kellys-korner-xp.com/xp_tweaks.htm (recommended on MSFT Community Newsgroups), but to no avail. None of them have restored right-click access to the taskbar. I did however manage to unlock it. I still have no right click access...

Here's the scoop. My workstation got setup by some independent tech who has since pretty much vanished. He installed WinXP Professional X64 onto the workstation for some reason. I'm a web developer and I absolutely don't need/want X64 because of whatever limitations, and it's not like I need...

Q4 sure is demanding.. :(

Wordpress and some plugins can do this.

Yep. I smell a hardware problem. It might be time to start testing components :(

It's sad because I'm very sure the artist didn't even get a cut.

Yes, and people who are into modding their card to an XT are obviously so worried about their warranty......

You won't need anything over PC3200 (especially with the mobile's flexible multiplier). Buy the lower speed of ram with tighter timings.

I see a lot of popped caps on Gigabyte boards. Also ECS, PCChips, (list of all crappy manufacturers) I rate MSI just above gigabyte in terms of quality.

That FPS seems very low to me. I get 50-60fps in FC at 1280x1024. System is in my sig.

Yeah I say ditch the bold.

Excellent reply. Just because you have the option to change something doesn't mean it needs to be changed. By SPD will be best if you don't know that you need to change your timings.

There's no point in doing this. Your hard drive(s) will drive you nuts as soon as your PC makes no noise. Also, as someone already mentioned, underclocking it won't do much, it's the voltage you need to change, and you won't get too far with that considering the 2700 is near the top of that...

Any recommendations? Canon's G5 would be nice, but it's $100US out of my fixed price range, so. Is there a toned down G5? I'd definitely go for a G4, but availability is slim to none, especially in Canada. Here's what I'm concerned about: - Good focal range (down to 2cm preferred, but...

2400+ ? Elaborate. Barton? Tbred? Any improvement over PC2100 will help, but you might not even need PC3200. If you don't plan on upgrading, PC2700 will be good enough. Also, PC2700 will be good enough if you're not OCing.

Yeah, it's been done. Very stylishly, I might add. I don't have the link handy though. Someone will come up with it, though. It's that green/clear/metal one. Very nice looking. Wish I remembered the link :p

Yep, for sure. Bigfoot is my recommendation. These guys are often. I've done lots of orders with them and their service, shipping time, and prices are all terrific.

I'd just go with the lowest week. Also, are you sure all that info is legit? I didn't think there was a 45w 2600+ XP-M that ran at 2GHz.

Be prepared for WAY more dust inside. You'll have to check your heatsink often.

Try increasing your Vcore to 1.75v Also, when did you get this Barton? If it was within the last 5 months or so, odds are it's locked up. Make sure the changes you make to the multi are actually taking effects (boot into Windows, check with WCPUID or CPU-Z, shutdown, reboot into Windows and...

Well you certainly got the "ugly" thing down. :p Hey, if it works (and it looks as though it does for sure!) good job.

I think you've done a good job defending your solution up to now. But both of you lack evidence that Koolance is either a) cheaper or more expensive or b) less, equally as or more effective. Needs moar proof, or else you're BOTH wrong.

I'd love to do this. I wouldn't need another mobo, but I can't afford/be assed to setup/ a watercooling system.

No. 58c is fine, 37 idle is good, even. Don't bother worrying unless you're overclocking.

I really doubt it's Prime stable. Mine got into Windows at 2574Mhz (11x234) but Windows locked up right away 9/10 times. It was also 1.9V on the core.

??? Your post said AS3. Not Shin Etsu.

No, the trick is to follow the damn instructions. That is COMPLETELY unnecessary.

:D :p

Nah, I think it's assumed common knowledge :p Now it is for you, too! :p

Np, and don't feel stupid. Sometimes I forget that not everyone knows the lingo. :p Cats = Catalysts = Name for ATI's drivers. http://www.ati.com/support/driver.html Latest are the Catalyst 4.4 drivers.