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CookieNapper Check this post, especially the DP2VGAHD20 as it's one of the most reliable, performant and cheap good adapters on the market.

jrodefeld Failing MCZ3001D in the Sony TV's had a symptom where they will work only if the temperature is high enough. Can you try checking if the issue correlates with the room temperature? I'm pretty sure that amber flashing is B+ voltage line issue, and that IC is the main regulator for that...

I've seen that NOS 2070sb for sale on avito for 10k roubles = 135 usd. So that guy bought it and decided to sell it on ebay, huh. Strat_84 it seems like my F520 problems which I've encountered after placing a cap on the B+ line in reverse polarity are tied to that MCZ3001D IC. I've checked...

Here you go :)

It's one of the cheapest and one of the best. A good one at least. Recently I was able to compare some 240 Hz IPS panels and an OLED CX to my 2070sb's, so maybe some of you guys will find the info interesting.

Funny thing I've noticed with Startech DP2VGAHD20, if I disable the monitor using Win-P combo the adapter / AMD driver freaks out and the display starts to connect/disconnect in devices manager with like a 2 second interval causing mouse stutters. Derupter Flybye have you ever noticed such an...

My friend got the Vention AFVHB, so there's a report about it. Makes the picture blurry after 247 Mhz. Does interlaced resolutions fine, like 1440x1080 at 160Hz or 2048x1536 at 107 Hz (244 MHz, just before that mosaic effect)

AFAIK not possible at all on DP adapters. Probably possible with HDMI adapters, maybe Derupter can shed the light on that question. Also wait till Rtas will test out the new Vention HDMI adapter :)

Got some spare parts for my FW900 and F520 :) FW900 with bad coating and blown FBT and a E530 with some kind of a power supply problem but a supposedly healthy tube.

I've got my DP2VGAHD20 yesterday too, capable of 375Mhz just like Flybye 's sample. No problems at all even at 2048x1536 82Hz.

I have not thought about that, there was indeed a huge amount of dust inside. About the temps, I'd say they are around 45-50C after warmup with a bright picture shown on the screen now.

Please clarify if you're using service menu or not. If you are using the service menu - is one of your gains at 6500K is maxed out at FF value? If so, those 72cdmm2 are really the maximum the tube can put out. Hmm. Video amp overheat? Replacing thermal paste and adding two extra screws to...

Why dont you calibrate it via displaycal calibration (before profiling screen) by using service menu? Those mitsubishi tubes are very long lasting, my 20k hour 22b4 easily calibrated to 100cd/mm2 on every color temp. I've figured out my problems with WPB, had to lower G2 a bit more. Perfect...

Scored an F520 with 20k hours on it, and boy it's a sharp one. Had some trouble setting the right G2 in WPB, but it calibrates nicely. Funny how it's considerably smaller than a 22b4, I thought the difference would be barely noticeable.

For the TTL cable part - the 5v and GND could often mess up the connection between WinDAS and the monitor sometimes, so you can also try without them, just TX and RX.

I found out why it was playing nicely yesterday and I could lower the green signal - the monitor was cold enough. I've just fired it up after night and could perfectly see how the green level is climbing up in HCFR right after start. Actually it was climbing slowly and jumped really high just...

Well.. I tried to calibrate it using WinDAS again and I'm actually able to calibrate the 9300K cutoff step in WPB procedure. So happy, haha. Here are some photos. So the floating heater voltage crt guys used back in the days to fix up trinitron crt tvs really worked wonders :) Assembly + full...

I'm sorry as this was really dumb indeed. I've isolated the heater voltage from ground by using an external power supply, and now the monitor is not flashing with bright green on startup. That intermittent short is obviously still there, but it does not matter as I've got a "floating" heater...

I've checked the IC403 and the D206, they are OK. So the problem lies in a KG-G1 or KG-H shorted tube. Sad. I'll try hacking up my unused 2.1 amp to get 5V AC heater voltage and measure the cathodes upd. KG-G1 - 10mA KR/KB-G1 - 6mA So there's a KG-G1 short indeed. Or is it heater - cathode?

The DP2VGAHD20 is based on IT6564 edit. found that this was already mentioned. oops.

Hi. It's looking like the tube has a GK-G1 or GK-H short. I've seen it flash a couple times on startup after trying to adjust the 30 IRE step in Windas WBP procedure and ending up at 22 cd/mm2 instead of 8 cd/mm2 because of how strong the green color is. I've also bought the new caps for the A...

Seems like so. Then it would be a time for a small straight grinder tool with a cutoff disk.

Vention released a new DP VGA adapter cable based on ANX9833. Usual 8pbc 180Mhz, 6pbc 240Mhz stuff, but you can swap it for ANX6212 or ANX9847 from aliexpress to get 330Mhz 8bpc or above depending on the sample. The interesing thing is that the adapter seems to be located on the VGA side of the...

Not really a cod/cs player, but I use 1384*1038@120 as my desktop resolution and for 4x3 capable games and 1600*1000@133 for 16:10/16:9 games like apex legends on my 22b4's

I hope I would be able to test a new from the store cap tomorrow, worst case on monday. But I'm quite sure it's correct.. All the caps on the A board read at least 20% lower than rated capacitance.

Yup. Before the jumper mode the blacks on that OSD-date screen were not black, they were bright green. After the jumper mode the blacks came to ~normal (I agree it's still a bit green, but that seems to be fixable with WBP to me) on that OSD-date screen, but the blacks on VGA output are much...

That's EIA-96 marking code. A weird one, I was also stumbled once I saw it on the chinese bluetooth 2.1 channel amp it's from :) As always, huge thanks for ideas for troubleshooting. The green tint present only on VGA signal, and regardless on how bright the image is. So it should be a problem...

Sorry, I forgot to mention that I've fixed the resistor. BUT - with a smaller "form factor" one. Should not matter a lot for a quick test tho. Here's a photo. Notice that ceramic cap you mentioned seems ok. I realized that now the issue is only happening to picture from the gpu, not the OSD...

Yeah, I did that when there were no VGA connected. Guess I can live without that info. Reloading a *.dat file does not help with that. It's okay, I guess. You were right about the fact that I did not fixed the issue fully with that jumper wire. The green tint is still too strong. At least the...

We'll see, I'll try doing a WBP in the evening. About the amnesia part - I've long pressed reset on that screen and it did that. Whoops.

I might have confused you, sorry. That's a factory circuit indeed. I wanted to say that it just looks like a circuit which is engineered by Sony to intentionally lower the monitors life cycle.

Honestly that looks like a planned obsolescence.

Strat_84 disabling the drift correction fixed the issue! It still needs a WBP, but making that little jumper wire made the blacks go from bright green to deep black in no time :) Th3_uN1Qu3 post about the issue on badcaps Recent momaka post about the issue on badcaps

It's a 120kOhm resistor, the manual says 100kOhm, so that could be a part of the issue

Thanks again for the tips, but none worked. Close inspectation of the A-board revealed some missing components and some kind of a hack job.

It's an FW900. About the colors - it's just a bit less bad looking with G2 hex edit. Not really usable, especially when compared to my calibrated 22b4's. I've just found a couple of ideas I think I should check on this FW900. 1 and 2. I'll give it a couple of days to discharge. Hopefully I will...

Basically B_BKG_B_MAX is so high by default that I need to turn it all the way down to 0 and turn the R and C to ~200. I'm using the full black test pattern for that step. Doing so makes the monitor too bright at the next step so it loses focus and after like 3-5 seconds it turns off. The...

So.. I'm trying to to the WPB adjustment right now, and the damn thing keeps shutting down with two-times blinking LED. The "failure" menu in the windas says it's an OVP - overvoltage protection? Seems like something is bad either on the monitor boards (caps?), or the tube is just so badly worn...

I've managed to successfully hook up to the monitor with a CP2102 usb-serial adapter after registering the msflxgrd.ocx file and setting the compartibility to win95 in the windas.exe properties. I have not managed to get it working through VM with serial port/usb passthrough. G2 hex edit did...

Finally got one. 68$, but the black levels are toast. Basically - the blacker the image, the "whiter" (and greener) the black level is. Does this sound like a G2 drift issue? I'm obv going to calibrate it via windas, but just wanted to know what can I expect, if this is fixable or not without...