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As soon as the LED is blinking orrange, that means a fault is detected and power supply is shut down. So yes, there won't be any anode voltage, that makes sense. And BTW trying to measure anode voltage is stupidly risky, do you realize it normaly is of several TENs of KILOVOLTS ?

Ah, people and their flyback fancies ... :wacky: Blinking orange means there's a fault, period. The blinking frequency can give a clue, so does reading the error log in Windas. The issue can be anywhere, and flyback failures may be less than 10% of them.

I do not remember exactly how it is called but it's the first choice in windas' procedure list. It's not a safety report, but a failure log. The monitor doesn't have to be powered on to access it. Checking 220V ? With a multimeter, as simple as that. Power the monitor on and measure voltage...

I checked your previous posts and found your video about the original problem. Does it still do the same, with that spark gap SG901 enabling continuously several times before the monitor going down ? That's a symptom for high voltage overvoltage, but it doesn't mean necessarily the flyback is...

Not too sure about what you're meaning, but according to your description, my best bet is that's the digital area by area convergence setting that has a problem on your screen, as opposed to the basic convergence parameters.(horizontal global, and vertical top/center/bottom). Before breaking...

I have a pair of Sun GDM5410, the casing is made of a mix of light grey and purple parts.

Nope. As I said previously, even if swapping flybacks between different models were a good idea, the service manuals show the flybacks aren't pin compatible between the FW900/G500 gen and the G520 gen. There might be some hope with your screen but well, there sure is quite an investigation to...

Good luck "replacing" the AR coating on a P275 or a P1130: it is a metallic coating deposited directly on the glass of the tube. It must be the same for Mitsubishi tubes as far as I know. Only the Sony tubes from the early 2000's and before feature a stuck plastic coating.

This is a big NO. The circuit schematic inside the flyback is different between the service manual of the G520 and the one of the FW900, they're not pin compatible. Also, I think someone reported using another flyback with success in the past and the patch-up job was holding but this is a...

Weird story. The front glass is very thick and if a CRT tube had to break, it would be in the neck area, and it wouldn't happen on its own.

Well, first things first, you have to check the cables are properly set in, and if it doesn't solve the problem, check the continuity of the tracks. As for the sources, there's one i bought on ebay, but the ones linking the N board/D board are Molex ref 98268-0331, with a few extra tracks cut...

If you read everything, you certainely noticed that in my case, the issue came from a faulty flat cable. One of the two linking the N board and the D board.

Lesson One: Never edit manually a file when you have no clue about the values you're messing with. And on the top of that it doesn't allow to do things that can't be done properly another way. You can try the "restore" function in the color menu after heating for 30 minutes. If it doesn't...

Absolutely no idea. These were all second hand monitors and I don't think there was an operation duration counter on any of them. But absolutely all the used diamondtron I've seen had sharpness problems in the corners.

The funny thing is that I ditched four 22" based on diamondtron tubes a few years ago because they all got unfixable blur problems in the corners with aging. I hope for the bidders they are lucky and their unit is fine regarding that aspect, but I wouldn't count on it.

If you did take care to read the product page, you should have noticed it struggles to reach 1920x1080 resolution. The DAC is probably some garbage capping at 200Mhz or the like.

It's an ultra low end but very power effective graphic card. Interesting in some corporate uses but absolutely pointless otherwise.

:ROFLMAO: I'm always stunned to see how people try to make an obvious flaw look like a virtue ... :yuck:

- AR film removed - critical failure (may or may not be repairable, can't say without opening it) - physical damage That's a nice combo, it's almost good for the dump ... :dead:

It may be the oldest thread of the forum still active, it'll celebrate its 18th birthday in a couple of months. :)

I don't mean to be rude but please keep in mind this is a thread dedicated to a device we use and we love, not to how to make as much speculative money out of it. Ebay is a more suitable place for that goal. On the top of that, quite a few people here would feel offended by a speech aiming at...

At this point, in 2023, massive restoration is the least one could expect for a FW900. But there's also the need to regularly service it (color settings), and a risk higher and higher to encounter a failure difficult or impossible to repair. The one who puts as much money as 10k$ in this just...

Funny answer. :LOL: I don't see any reason why a simple coil running at a lightly higher temperature would shorten the life of the tube. As for capacitors drying out faster, it's plain bullshit. BUT the electronics before the tube may not like higher resolution or higher refresh rates, because...

About cleaning, it's written in the manual: only use water.

Yes, it matches more or less your description. 1 or 2 flashes during warmup, it may have happened during the first minutes of use but that's all. Always red flashes in my case. I don't remember if there was a change in size screen. The thing is, I also had a few color flashes on another screen...

FW900 under medical treatment here. Looks like I saved it, to be continued. :cool: Background: Back in summer 2022, the screen started flashing red screens during warmup. Since it did persist, I stopped using it to find what was wrong. The electronic was checked, it was OK, so it appeared the...

It has nothing to do with heat. The chassis of the F520/G520 series is pretty weak, and the connector between the D board and A board pretty cheap too. It's not unusual to have bad contacts in that connector, that can lead to intermittent black screens.

Best joke ever. Capacitors can't be tested reliably in circuit most of the time. I guess that's how he manages to find so many "bad" capacitors ... :LOL:

I don't think so. If it were a potentiometer that was used daily, maybe it could wear out. But these were just set once in their life and sealed, there's no way they could go bad.

If the focus problem is intermittent, LEAVE THE FOCUS POTS ALONE. The setting of these pots is right, it's just that there is an electrical issue somewhere that impacts focus. Now, finding what the problem is is another story. I can be anything from a bad solder joint to a worn out component...

Actually the dynamic focus circuitry is almost entirely external to the FBT, there's only one coupling capacitor inside that may interfere if different. It would have been best to measure that on both FBT before. But anyway, better check focus with some appropriate display patterns. It may be a...

At the very least you'd need the original specifications to be able to duplicate one, and these were custom made components, the relevant informations have never been publicly available. I'm quite skeptical about the flyback replacement of ElbartoME. Of course it could be interesting as a last...

Oh come on. :facepalm: The required components are EOL and no one is going to redesign them with higher specs, no one has the infrastructure or know-how to still build high resolution/big color CRTs. And this is not a Chinese crook who is going to pull this miraculously out of his ... You know...

Do yourself a favor and ditch that idea ! According to the haze figures it would only turn the display into a blurry nightmare. :depressed: High resolution screens like these need filters with very low haze. Anything above 2% is an absolute no go, and the good ones are rather below 1% / 0.5%.

Actually, the extra grounding wires were more a personnal experiment than a known answer to a known issue. It may have increased a bit the display accuracy by reducing the noise in the signals, and also increased the brightness stability (there were unusual variations in measurements compared to...

There's one I recovered which also wasn't that good regarding colors. I replaced the capacitors of the neck board and added a couple of extra ground connexions to the chassis (the grounding tracks are too thin, the F520 has the same track pattern except it is dual layer with a single layer...

I found the complete video: Burned by criccio when I was about to reply. :whistle: Well, ok, if it wasn't already completely impossible to find one at a half decent price, now it is. Another wave of headless people is on its way with money full of their pockets, and probably not a single clue...

Oh no, not him. He's had the guts to make videos on building a NAS and ... lose his data twice in a row after. The next video on the subject was priceless: the building of a monster replacement NAS ... with seagate drives, the most unreliable ones according to Backblaze records. :ROFLMAO...

A blinking orange light means most of the time something wrong is detected and a safety is triggered. Or a signal is missing somewhere, or a power supply voltage (bad contact, flat cable not properly plugged, bad solder ...). It's unlikely to come from a bad tube. As of the red/green tints...

He's right only about the fact it's a hardware problem, but nothing proves it's necessarily a failling tube. It could as well be an electronic issue.