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Just uninstall your drivers with DDU

IMO only if you're planning on putting them underwater.

Yeah Classy for sure if you're wanting to mess around with overclocking them. If not, a reference design would fair a lot better in a triple situation.

In addition to that there are a lot more offlease servers running 2011 sockets than 1155 I'd imagine. Something in 1155 is a great drop in replacement for a low end i5 someone may have, or an i3. Higher demand and all. Plus you can go with so many more cores on 2011.

Anything that can help total production is okay by me.

This'll be my last month with Verizon with this increase. I honestly rarely went above 4-6gb used, but this month I'm just sticking it to them. 45gb used so far in 11 days.

The enthoo certainly looks nice and has great features. Something like the Coolermaster N200 is a pretty darn small case if you're looking to save on size. It is of cheaper construction though. I'm personally not a fan of Bitfenix's cases, but Lian-Li's are usually pretty solid.

Front 2 intake, rear exhaust. Honestly unless you have a think carpet floor I'd put the AIO from the hybrid on one of the bottom slots. Play with intake or exhaust to see what gives you better temps, probably intake. If you've got carpet you can make a small pedestal for it for dirt cheap.

The big point of this is because they disabled the ability to have Xeon E3's in consumer chipsets for Skylake for whatever reason.

I guess are you having performance issues? How badly?

I'd grab an EVGA ACX or MSI TF depending on which is cheaper. If you're interested in heavy overclocking, EVGA Classified hands down. The Kingpin and MSI Lightning are a waste of money with this card unless you're LN2 cooling.

Ah, the stand looked like it would be absolutely awful. I never used it personally, I had an arm mount waiting for it when it came in. I stand corrected then.

Nice, I personally have the glossy but same stuff. I'd also recommend picking up a cheap VESA desktop stand for it. Even a basic cheap monoprice should do.

But you're adding in all the potential QC issues, the iffy warranty, and that absolutely terrible stand without the one big benefit. It's a 1440p IPS (Or similar) that can be overclocked to almost always at least 96hz. With the true 10 you're honestly just better off buying a mainstream 1440p...

Haven't seen a single person with a true 10 over on oc.net (which has a rather large community of Qnix/XStar users) who's been able to really hit over 85 without frame skipping.

I highly suggest anyone unsure about switches buys a switch tester. Around 10 bucks is well worth not buying the wrong $100+ keyboard.

HWLabs I'd agree are some of the best. I've personally got some Coolgate G1's. Excellent performance, fit my case perfectly. Absurdly clean though, I didn't see a single particulate while washing them when I got them in.

Filter seems like it'd do more harm than good. Especially if you just stick with distilled and add in some biocide you should be good for a long time.

Not true. Plenty of boards with 8 pin slots work completely fine with only a 4 pin.

You can definitely grab a top end AC Wifi card for less than that $90.

Great community presence and great service. If only XFX had a lightning equivalent.

I just switched to USB external disk drives. I can put it right under my monitor for easy and clean looking access and not have to mess with any 5.25 slots. Plus the front of my tower is 5 feet away from my desk.

Yeah definitely going to have to see some proof for a multi-input at 110hz without frame skipping.

No, look in your motherboard manual. You motherboard has 2 channels, you only need 2 sticks to make it dual channel. The manual will tell you which slots to use for dual channel.

Have you tried only 2 of the sticks in the proper slots for dual channel?

Have you checked out any of Caselab's offerings? More specifically the Magnum series? Doesn't look identical, but they're similar with removable bays and full aluminum.

Agreed, more preference. I personally use a modified x264 loop for my stressing.

I'd take a 980ti on a good board any day over the Titan X with it's mediocre one. A good 980ti can be overclocked to be faster than a Titan X can.

For now my guess is by "driver" they mean someone fit to drive in all legal senses.

I absolutely need a keypad for my work board as I'm a network engineer, but for home I don't miss it. The Corsair is solid build quality, only negative really is the keycap quality, which again has a nonstandard bottom row so you can't easily replace them. Personally I'd go for a CoolerMaster...

I'd stay away from Razer build quality (Blade 14 excluded) and the g710+ has really crappy stock keycaps and it has a non-standard bottom row so you can't easily replace them.

Your only real option for an upgrade on that at a reasonable price is the 771 to 775 mod.

Slightly off iirc. 115x coolers are pretty much the same, but the mounting holes for 775 are closer together or further apart, can't remember.

Both of those boards are rather low quality and use lesser switches. At that budget I'd look into some of the Cooler Master ones like this or this.

I second a Qnix QX2710, I love mine. $300 a year ago for a 96hz 1440p PLS. Just get them from a more popular seller on ebay. Ebay is extremely biased towards the buyer. Just avoid the "True Ten" moniker one and any with multiple inputs. You just need one with a single DVI dual link port.

Yeah it'd certainly be loud. Maybe a case like this would do the job. Would work with any normal form factor motherboard, full sized GPU. Just might need a low profile cooler.

Yep the HX series was one of the last good non overpriced units Corsair put out.

I have one of those on my desk and I didn't even realize it was managed :D I'm in northern Ohio so if it can handle Michigan it should be fine.

Hey all, I'm in need of some desperate help. I'm trying to find a switch with the following qualities and the cheaper (yet decent quality) the better as I'm sure the client wants to spend as little as possible. This is a tricky one to find, and it's for a massive outdoor wireless project...

I mean any quality 600w PSU should be more than fine. Like this one. Definitely of better quality than the Coolermaster too as it's a mediocre CWT platform one. I believe the Seasonic is 100-240v autosensing too.