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Been a week, but I thought I would like to report back what I found. The SSD eventually reset itself or something and so now it can be detected in a USB enclosure. Before it wouldn't. I guess not having power to it for a couple of days might have reset something. I was able to get data off of...

So I just had a crucial m4 issue start up. The drive now cannot be detected in bios or in a usb enclosure anymore. I'm open to suggestions on how to get my data back. Full story is Old computer laptop Dell XPS 15 L501x started acting up and being unstable. Before it would go for weeks without...

I believe I have one. PM me for more details, I'll try and get some pictures so you can ID it and make sure it is the right one.

The drive is partitioned and working correctly while on the USB enclosure adaptors. It's when I move the drive over that Win 7 64 that all the weird partitioning issues arise. Is there a way I can tell the drive to behave with a 4096 block size when I attach it using the esata port? I'm...

Anyway to fix this?

Can I get some help in moving a 4TB drive over from a USB 3.0 connection to a esata connection? I bought a 4TB external drive partitioned it as one big partition using the USB 3.0 connection. Under Disk Management and Minitool Partition Wizard Home Edition it shows up as 126MB Unallocated |...

interested, ygpm

Sad...already vandalized for the copper...

For landscape work, I see a lot of people do very well with the kit lens 18-55is. But to answer your question, 17-55is is definately better than 17-40 on crop body, unless you really want the lens for the status symbol a red ring carries. Other than that, the construction is not as good as...

Could also try Pinnacle Studio. I think it is probably less featured than Premiere Elements, but good enough for your use too.

I can second the s90 or s95. I used to use a dslr to take product photos for R&D use, but now I just whip that out. The other smaller cameras just don't cut it in office lit situations.

24-105 F4 is a good all around lens for the 5D. It's good for just about everything. For full frame, most people seem to agree 85 to 135 is the best focal lengths for portraiture. People pick one or the other end of the spectrum based upon subject size and framing perspective. In a pinch a...

Try looking for phottix RF remotes for the Canon and Nikon DSLR cameras. Maybe the Pentax and other brands are supported too. The phottix RF remote simply uses the wired shutter release line.

DSLR for video, works well if you don't mind manual focusing as said before. Editing full 1080p will require a pretty good computer. I did a short video and basically had one camcorder just recording the whole time and my 5DII to take short takes of the same event and did some post processing...

I have one and it is ok....but I also didn't have high expectations of it when I bought it. Pros: best thing about it is the ability for it to cling to round objects such as pipes and etc. Also you can bend the leg into a big hook to hang it from something. Cons: not that stable...

See if people are dumping their older rebels on craig'slist. I got my start into the dslr world with a rebel xt+kit lens+ 28-105+flash for $300...

I'm still trying to figure out how you managed this shot...

and what are you getting now? Post a small one of what you are getting now without flash, and the camera model. That picture above was taken without flash, looks like low ISO with noise reduction. Even with a nice DSLR, it's going to take me a couple of tries to get it right if I want it...

Cool, just one flashlight to do all of that?

The picture you posted looks fine to me as far as color temperature is concerned. If your talking about the pictures displayed on that monitor, I would highly venture to guess that your monitor calibration is way off. Try a 6500K color temperature and all the pictures you have will warm up...

Well, here goes... 1. Probably the best of the bunch as your eyes have already agreed upon too 2. Shadow across her dress, and head is just way too high... 3. Needs to be exposed a bit brighter with fill flash so you don't overexpose the right side of her face. 4. Background light...

I use a 40D so don't flame me, but got a chance to really use a D80 for awhile. Auto ISO...-Canon still hasn't caught up and probably never will. The ultimate setting would be a system of ranking the different variables that effect exposure by range... Flash Metering - Granted, the Canon...

Personally, it looks to me like a 70-200 f2.8 IS is probably called for... A "well" lit parking lot is still pretty low light and 50 yards isn't exactly close either.... Of course, I guess I should have also been more specific to also specify the size of the objects you would want to see at...

Needs a budget and Information about distance of those captures.... and There's a point when you want to switch from a crop body to a full frame or APS-H sensor camera when you want the high ISO performance for night time. F2.8 is fast, but not that fast when you are talking about...

$800 Budget.... That's a bit tight but doable if your willing to bargain hunt a bit... I would say rebel XTi body only, for around $375. Pick up a lens from someone's XSI kit for the 18-55IS lens. $150 Find a place that will sell the 55-250IS for $275. And I believe they all use a 52mm CPL...

Your camera is already a 12x zoom....which I'd imagine the telephoto length would already be around 400mm or so. Do you really need to boost it up to 600mm? As far as moving to dslr...well, the hardware gets bigger really quick =). But I'll pick the image quality over the size.

Indoors in dim lighting and at the 20 to 45mm range, the lens is basically unusuable.... I am not even talking about 8x10 prints, but rather the whole picture except for the very center was so blurry that looking at it at 20% magnification, I could see the flaw in the lens. I will concede...

I would get the OS version. It is worth every penny extra especially for the chance at less blurry pictures. IMO, you shouldn't be worrying about the flaw too much. I have the canon version and after knowing about the flaw and having it spoil a couple of pictures, I have learned how to work...

Well if a "crop factor" became less than 1...then it wouldn't be called a crop factor anymore :eek:. maybe magnification factor?

I was simply talking about being able to read the focus distance on the lcd, and also having two other numbers to each side of it. Maybe by convention, the one on the left would be the limit of the nearest object in focus, and the number on the right of the focus distance would be the farthest...

I think Auto ISO would be a step in the right direction for Canon. I think the full manual controls should still be there, but it is time for the cpu's and programming to be a bit smarter. Auto ISO would just be like an extension of how we want to creatively take a picture. When I take a...

When the shots are awesome, they are really awesome... Don't think all of the pictures turn out like that though =P. Some need some tweaking, and others...are just not salvageable.... As far as expensive gear....Yeah it is more than a point and shoot, but then again, just buy the used...

I'm a lurker on potn... ;)

but then lose the bokeh....

I like my slingbag... I think it is a bit small sometimes to fit all my gear and a bit more, but I guess different bags...different purposes. I can live with those bags being really convenient for carrying camera stuff only, but sometimes I would like to stuff a small notebook or laptop in...

While I don't have any experience with the Nikon 18-200VR, I've had the chance to test out the Sigma 18-200 some more. The sigma certainly does have it's weakness. Pictures come out very soft around the 24 to 40mm range. I am not sure if this is a problem with my copy or if it is a problem...

with flash....don't even think about getting 1fps....if you really need the exact numbers I'll get some results later. I don't think any p&s camera can do that. Even my rebel xt with the built in flash only does about 1fps. With an external...it goes full speed until the flash runs out of...

well, figure out what the minimum speed you need is...then maybe some other recommendations will start to pop up. I've heard that the Sony Wxx series are fast, but that was a year ago. But that speed is still around 1 fps. My own SD1000 is also around 1fps, maybe a wee bit faster, but...

I have the sd1000...and there are absolutely no manual controls on that thing...so basically no exposure compensation, which is required for hdr. Do you just want a portable camera, or one that can actually do HDR?

One thing I wanted to ask...is that center column CF, and also does it wobble left and right when you loosen the collar to adjust the height? And also is that locking collar on that tripod plastic? I'm just asking because I bought a knockoff and just wanted to know the differences from the...