I do not agree on Tygon in some cases ; I find both Feser and Primochill better. The latter's can both take more harsh bends than tygon without kinking.
If you plan on a system without sharpe bends - Tygon is very good, no question about that.
Otherwise i think you are good to go - silver -...
Do NOT buy black ice rads - they are really not worth the money. Avoid them like the plague.
And 1/2" all the way - avoid inline reservoirs too - bitspower connectors all the way - and dd Fillport Reservoir <- highly recommended
My ten cents :)
Well - let us sum this thread up this way ? ; we all agree that active cooling certainly not hurt ? The old rule that electronic components work better the colder they are (until a certain point) still applies...
On the other hand - my preferences with tim on ie. mosfets goes in favour of...
Unfortunately these guys are dealing with ~ ten year old designs. So don't expect the performance to be on top.
I did these designs myself - and actually found out that the sandblasting was better, the sandblasting method got the copper to raise against the waterstream.
When that is said -...
A finger test is not a accurate "instrument" of course - but it sure as hell gives a very good indication, don't expect that John Doe have a thermometer lying around :)
We do somewhat agree that one is best off having the mosfets cool - don't we ? ;)
hehe - never heard of objects so big that they actually stopped the pump !
As previosly said - I would not have a filter like that in my loop - it WILL add restriction.
I'd actually rather would have some small particles circulating around in my system - and flushed them out the "old" way...
I always run my computers as overclocked as possible, that most often includes vcore way out of specs for the cpu.
I recently saw ir photos of a 780i motherboard which his temperatures excedeed well over 100 degrees C, it's freaking irritating that I cant find those pictures just now :(...
I knew them pictures were bad examples, I also know that there are ir pictures out there that showing temperatures exceeding the limit. But I just can't find them now.
I have myself killed at least three mobo's because of this, the two first were rma'ed - the last one I soldered on new...
We have now two dead motherboards on one day because of it ..... have you ever seen ir photos of a motherboard ?
These are old ir photos (the only ones I found now) - and the chipsets are redesigned to direct the heat outwards today - which they actually weren't at the time this pictures was...
When I watercool nowadays I always do go fullcover + use a ir thermometer to expose the hotspots ( you dont need a ir therm.. your fingers are just fine exposing the hotspots).
Check ppcs or sidewinder for a fullcover solution for that mb.
This is watercooling --- It is even worse - much...
If I remeber correct - Zalman was one of the first to use heatpipes in their VGA coolers (the first ? ) it's some ten years ago - so I might be wrong :)
Anyway I do remember "the hype" that heatpipecoolers should be up to 100 times as effective as conventional cooling - "high tech used in...
One shall also be aware of that a heatpipe can stop work (stall) if the surroundings get to hot - a fan is also needed for heatpipecoolers...
"When the temperature is above the vapor condensation point of the working fluid, the vapor will not condense back to liquid phase. This causes the...
Nice 1 :)
But I am really missing Magicools in your tests -> A bunch of triple-radiators reviewed @ http://www.realredraider.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=4924
And 2x120's @ http://eiskaltmacher.de/portal/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=1131&Itemid=53&limit=1&limitstart=11
I see watercooling how to's here - there and everywhere....
All these guides almost always have one thing in common - they "forget" to tell you that you remove a VERY important part of the motherboards cooling when going from air to watercooling.
What you do remove when going from air to...
I guess you meaning condensation ? The answer to that is yes if the liquid is cold enough plus factors which involves how much moisture in the air and so on.
99% don't watercool....
And for me this plate heat exchanger is perfect for hooking up my "transportable" chiller - if you don't like it - fine, but I do like it....
btdt :) I have also used copper paste (yeah the type meant used on bolts for exhaust manifolds ! ) on a server on a oil drilling rig since we didn't have the proper stuff.
Thats 2 years ago and that server is still running - with copper paste :D
????????????????????????
"The HXP-193 is made of copper-brazed stainless steel and plated externally in nickel."
http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=944
I guess that the pressure drop isn't linear ? How much will it be @ 20LPM ? ( if you happen to know that ? )
HXP-193 is in my cart just now... but maybe I will have to order some stuff for customers (they always order in the weekend - or straight after the weekeend :p ) so if possible please...
Watercooling ftw :)
But if you hold on to air - a thumbrule is to always hold positive pressure (overpressure) in your cabinet. If you can't do that with the original fanmounts it's time to get a new cabinet or start modding :)
A great (but not so tidy looking) is fanducts - it let you...
Yes - nothing can be more true Earley ; as I said "If you ask 10 experienced overclockers on which tim is best - you probably will get ten different answers"
That one degree can be just enough to stabilize you at xxxx MHz.... You never know before you tried - do you ???? ;)
Thank you :)...
Well I went crazy and bought one - TNN500A ; had it for 3 years before I sold it..
I might go crazy again.................. :p
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z9HGfGicpFk