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At least where I live, the Black might actually have better value due to its 5 year warranty versus Samsung's 3 years. You've gotta think about that when considering value for money.

That´s what I´ve also considered. I didn´t want RAM to be a limiting factor. Edit. Oh, there´s a dedicated section for memory discussion...

I already went with the 2000´s. I hadn´t seen a decent comparison of mentioned memorykits before, but after some some googling, I saw this: [URL="I already went with the 2000´s. I hadn´t seen a decent comparison of mentioned memorykits before, but after some some googling, I saw this...

Hi, I plan to OC my upcoming Core i5 750 rig to 4.0Ghz by raising the baseclock to ~200. Which kind of memory will offer better bandwith, 7-8-7 DDR3-1600, or 9-9-9 DDR3-2000?

Could you compare FSX performance with Core2 Q, i5, i7 and Phenom II processors? It´s a very cpu intensive program and I think many would be grateful for such a test.

I´m able to install Vista SP1 w/ AHCI enabled on P5Q-E and WD6400AAKS. On W7, I had to switch into IDE-mode.

Swap the sidepanels´ place, so you´ll get rid of one useless fan. ;)

Fan down, otherwise the PSU will probably mess airflow too much.

Antec 300.

- DL and unpack Driver Sweeper - Remove ATI drivers from Control Panel - Reboot into Safe mode - Run DS - Remove "ati" and "ati technologies" registry keys manually. Just to be sure. - Reboot normally and install drivers

Yey!

I´d go with Seagate/WD. SpinPoints have got a high failure rate according to many reports.

Yes.

That´s weird... Have you ticked the "Run as administrator" option from the game´s shortcut settings?

Using TweakUac removes most of the nagging messages. The games have to be reinstalled anyway after formatting the HDD's OS partition, so installing them to another partition, than OS isn´t a good choice, IMO.

Considering the growing size of games, I´d give at least 150gb to OS/games. The space that is left over, I´d give it to My Documents and other stuff.

http://www.anandtech.com/casecoolingpsus/showdoc.aspx?i=3413 Some measurements.

Yeah, the temps might drops by 1-2 centigrades, or not at all, but more dust would definitely enter the case.

400 x 9.5 = 3800MHz, 1.26875 volts, temps 60c @ load. I could break 4GHz easily, but I´m already satisfied with 50% OC.

http://picasaweb.google.com/reksut/Antec300Summer08#5238846482965363826 Airflow towards the card.

You must be deaf. They´re loud even at lowest speed.

No you don´t. For some reason EG didn´t work on my old HDD, even the installation went fine. Haven´t tried it on new HDD, though. Running on 1306 bios.

TruePower PSU´s are notoriously unreliable - they can burn you´re entire system when they fail, so I recommend buying a better PSU - Corsair VX450 for example. It´s OK to use only single 4-pin connector, if you´re not a hardcore overclocker. Answer to youre second question, buy a SATA...

From Germany, but I live elsewhere in Europe.

Bump. My three-week-old got reallocated sectors. I´ll RMA it right away. A Poor quality drive! Batch: 00A7B0

Try Intel Burn Test instead, it is a much faster way to tell, if the you´re system is unstable.

I recommend buying this instead of cutting anything --> http://www.xigmatek.com/product/accessory-crossbow-adk-i7751.php

That is about the best I could do without modding. I´ve tied the cables on bottom of the case afterwards. http://picasaweb.google.com/reksut/Antec300Summer08

How did the hard disk fail?

AFAIK the recommendation you described was originally given in the days computers had 64MB of RAM, or so. With 8Gb of RAM, creating swap file into a virtual hard disk, which is located in RAM, is an option.

Lenovo L220X comes w/ S-PVA panel.

Add DRAM voltage, and 6-6-6-6-18 timings for example. Did it help?

Yeah, the page file should be located on another HDD, but as the main drive is Velociraptor, the speed difference isn´t huge. Tell him to move the swap file on formatted Raptor´s first partition (located on outer rim of HDD = faster). 4Gb swap file is large enough.

This appears to be a very common problem, I´ve expecienced it also. My problem was corrected w/ loosening RAM settings. The following link might help you out. http://www.repairyourpcnow.com/resources/atikmdag-has-stopped-responding.php

I tried playing Mass Effect w/ settings used in message #663. I got a crash. I also tried using stock clocks for HD4850. I set FSB Strap to Auto, disabled memory settings (except OC Charger). Testing... EDIT: Works fine now.

It is left @ Auto.

I managed to get 100% IBT-stable system. :cool: Thx for help, Big Lar, SirKronan and MaStaFLaSH. I could try to reach PL 6, but it won´t probably be worth of extra heart beats. :confused: The following settings were set in Bios, all the other settings were left @ Auto: FSB Frequency -...

I´ll increase NB voltages, sorry for confusion, English ain´t my native language. Memory runs currenly at 1:1 with FSB, at 800 Mhz. I´ll try 1.35 volts of NB voltage first.

I set DRAM voltage to 2.04 and PL9 worked fine. I did 5 runs in Intel Burn Test - one passed. Which setting beside NB should I change?

For some reason the system doesn´t boot, when PL is set to 9 in "Ai Transaction Booster". Using Memset works fine. Why? Bios settings & voltages: LLC: Enabled MEM. OC Charger: Enabled DRAM Static Read Control: Disabled CPU: 1.25625 PLL: 1.56 NB: 1.26 DRAM: 2.1 <--- I should probably...