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Yes you can use plug n' cool fittings, just not AquaComputers as they don't supply them in the correct size. See http://www.over-clock.co.uk/acatalog/barbs.html#a641 Or you can buy a 3/8" BSP Male to 1/4" BSP Female collar adapter (Mcmaster stocks them, as does NCIX), and THEN you can use...

Heh... guess you need to have been around a while... yer correct, 60mm rads have never existed, but 2x40mm rads do... http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p1703_Magicool-Mini-II-2x40-Radiator.html

Seeing as your coolant temps are good... your issue is likely the c/w rate of the CPU block. This determines how much the temperature of the item you're cooling rises per watt of heat that the block is asked to shift. EG: You have a processor kicking 120w of heat. You have a waterblock with a...

Source: http://www.thermochill.com/faq.html

Orientation of radiator has no impact on flow or performance. There is no right or wrong way up etc. 3/8" hose over a D5's ports will take some doing... good luck! (It IS doable, but is very frustrating)

All depends on heatload. There is a sweetspot for a specific heatload at a specific liquid flowrate. There is no "general" sweet spot. As for what fans have been tested on the PA Series core... Individual fan cfm vs noise vs rpm vs voltage graphs: Acoustifan AFDP-12025 [Dustproof]...

Have a look at ThermoChill graphs here: http://www.thermochill.com/PATesting/ Note on Heat Dissipated vs FlowRate graphs for PA120.1 > PA120.3, the difference in wattage dissipated doubling from 1gpm to 2gpm, also note how the curve is levelling out towards the upper range. The benefit of...

Savrow put this into practice in a retail system 2 years ago, and many others have done so also. Think the most indepth stuff on the subject can be found here: http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?s=&threadid=141703 &...

Except the BI Extreme series require much higher CFMs to get the same cooling performance, and thus more noise. The fin density of the core means it creates more resistance to airflow.

Pop graphics card out, turn it over. S'just air in the block's cavity that's coming out bit by bit.

Have a look at the Medusa project for passive TEC cooling - the amount of tubing shown there is needed to equate to the heat dissipation of a 120x3 radiator with silent fans (so around 280 to 300w Heat dissipation) - http://www.over-clock.com/ivb/index.php?showtopic=4135

Evident deltas...? With about 500w of heatload... Liq dT is radiator Delta, Inlet to outlet, measured with calibrated (to each other) probes. HE120.3 with Panaflo M1A (fans at 7.04v by multimeter) as follows: Avg Air <: 23.6 Avg Air >: 26.6 Avg Air Dt: 03.0 Avg Liq <: 33.9 Avg Liq >: 33.5 Avg...

The topic was actually covered at it's best on this very forum between TN and Cathar back in 2005... see http://www.over-clock.com/articles.php?action=show&showarticle=21 (summary) & http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=935607 (source) That search button up top is really handy...

Cathar's doing separate testing of fans on rads... the fan testing vapor did isn't directly applicable to performance on a radiator as doesn't account for pressure imposed by radiator cores. That's why the Yates excel over some more powerful fans...

Recommend having a wander to overclockers.com.au, sign up for their forums, then go on a hunt for 2 threads by Cathar entitled "Experiments in Tec Water Chilling Pt1" and Pt2 (I think). All the experimentation on running such a system has been done... you might be surprised at the results....

Look at Alphacool Nexxxos Extreme Series Radiators. Now look at "Blastflow" radiators. Now look at Magicool Radiators (http://www.magicool.biz/Magicool/Radiators.html) All from China via Eastar Trading GmbH. You'll find that outside of the "top" brandnames the rest is by majority rebadged...

You should really quantify the airflow necessary to achieve these figures... PA120.3 will give 650w of Heat Dissipation if used with Panaflo FBA12G12-H1A - 105cfm, 6.8mmH2O, 41.5dBA fans... 3 of. This would be VERY noisy imo. Use fans weaker than this and the radiator will dissipate less heat...

Sorry - didn't spot this thread had continued... Uhuh... you've got one question for BillA first I'm afraid... he came up with the whole radiator testing methodology ages ago and basically set the standards in place... can fire you over his email addy if you like.

My pleasure - the best link you'll ever want is http://www.thermal-management-testing.com/ (BillA's Testing Site) Other best bet is to ratch thru the cooling-masters articles, as all the data was produced by BillA, and passed over to David to do the writeup based on that data, so it's all valid...

Twaddle - wish folks'd forget this stupid conception that slower water = more time in rad = better cooling. See "Myths of Watercooling Exposed": http://www.overclockers.com/articles1088/

Yep... turn the entire thing over and put the fillport on the opposite side, so the pump hangs down from the res rather than being upside down... laing explicit state that that'll cause damage and negate warranty... Other than that, superb idea....

http://www.over-clock.com/articles.php?action=show&showarticle=17 Scroll 2/3 of the way down to "Installation of the CPU Block"

MCR320 has threaded holes so you can use any fittings you like...

??? No it doesn't. The "correct" statement would be that the PA120.3, if given 1gpm liq flow rate and approx 55cfm of airflow per fan, would max out at 400w. 640w with the fans tested. Increase liquid and airflow rate, or just increase the air : coolant differential, and 1kW and above is...

If radiator is touching the case, it's part of the electric system (ground). If radiator isn't touching case, but one of waterblocks' mounts touches a ground ring on mobo, radiator is part of electric system... radiator > water > copper block > mounting hardware > groundring on mobo... follow...

Put simply, a washer is a spacer. It adds a space between a screwhead and the item to which you're screwing into. What people are saying is use longer screws, and add a spacer between the case and the radiator that the screw passes thru (eg: a 1cm length of narrow metal tube, or a stack of...

Combination of residue from the coolant and plasticizer leeching out of the tubing that results in the white film. Solution is plasticizer-free tubing... expensive. Tygon 2000 series, or Silver Antimicrobial. Rid your loop of any aluminium, then use distilled with no additive. Voila. Crystal...

Silicates precipitating out of the coolant additive and dye with the increase in heat... looks like coolant should've been refreshed a while ago...

I suspect 3x SilenX Pros aren't sufficient to shift 300w of heat with a PA120.3, let alone 373w... the extra fan surface area is the crucial factor... simply a case of underpowered fans - see what Cathar says over at XS...

Might wanna check the replies to your posting of this within the "GTX360 or PA120.3" thread over at XS fella - many suspect something else is amiss for you be getting the temps you were getting with the PA120.3 as you weren't stressing the rad anywhere NEAR enough to warrant that amount of...

Need another "@" at end of that for flowrate... 1.5k btu/hr @ 40dba @ X lpm to make it a useful statement...

Yep Heh - yes, depending how you look at it. Not according to the above, but that's assuming a 10 deg air to coolant differential. IE: Water temp will be 10 deg Hotter than inlet air temp. (Room of 20 deg = Water at 30 deg under load... so c/w calculations should be [heatload] x [c/w of...

Bit more detail on the heatload of the system in question... E6600 Core2Duo oc'd to 3.8Ghz at 1.5v = 148w Topend mobo chipset (680i, 650, BadAxe975) = around 50w max(?) 2x 8800GTX @ stock (altho assume they'll get clocked up) with full coverage cards = 300w (oc'd - add another 100w?) Pump -...

What's a Primochill PA120? (Hehe - let you off...)

1) 120.3 radiator - with 100cfm fans if you intend to cool everything later down the line. Once you have CPU, GPUs, Chipset all watercooled and clocked up to "usual" levels, you'll be pushing 650w of heatload at full load if not more - 8950 likely shove out more heat than 8800 so could be...

In the UK? Have a look here: http://store.over-clock.com/Watercooled_Cases.html

Sand off current paint from the rad (everywhere but the core fins)... 400 grit first, then 600grit, then if you want a really good finish, 1200 grit. Wet n' dry... use it wet... final quality of the finish will be down to the prepwork. Get it all cleaned right back... then send it to the...

Simple - place the fuelfilter inline on the HIGHEST tube in your loop. When time comes to remove it, let some air into the loop (Drain out a l'il bit of water) from the item nearest on the same length of tube that should be below the filter, and this bubble should rise to the same point... keep...

Simply a case of more CFM. Quiet fans will cool your CPU but will produce a larger delta than using more powerful fans. Folks seem to forget this. In days of yore when people were seeing deltas of 5 deg C, that's cos we were all using Panaflo fans, and noise was hardly a concern to us. These...

Can't predict precise temps or I would have done so... working out performance of a radiator relatively to another brand is VERY difficult without all the figures required - precise flow rate and head pressure measured directly before the radiator, precise heatload, precise temps (to 2 or 3...