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http://secure.newegg.com/NewVersion/wishlist/PublicWishDetail.asp?WishListNumber=5324347 Is about what I'm looking for in the next couple months.

Microsoft seems determined to bone any Halo game that comes to PC.... Veiled attempt to get people to buy more Xboxes perhaps? jk

QFT And it'll be even faster once Sm3.0 use is more prevalent.

Are those benchies from mydriver on an AGP or PCIe card? PCIe cards are clocked WAY higher I believe (memory wise) edit: nvm me, i was thinking of 6600gt clocks vs x1600 clocks

1.21 jiggawatts! I estimate a year and a half until games really start utilizing the full shader power on this core.

Damn! You're 1 year old son has a [H]arder comp than me :eek:

Doesn't mean it won't work well in 18 months and sold for half the price.

Buying a top of the line video card that's so good it will be bottlenecked by top of the line processors (overclocked too) is a good thing. It means you won't have to buy a new card for quite some time.

Same thing ;) I mispelled Tagan... Tagain... heh.

I have a Tagan TG480-U22 that performs excellently, Tagans are high quality across the line. OCZ Powerstreams are Tagain OEM too :) It would be fine for a DFI nF4 system.

It looks like some regulation stuff blew, and probably too much power went through the DVI to the monitor and thus frying some stuff there. Just a guess.

Seran wrap is your best friend if trying to do this mod on your own, duh. You don't have to leave the platters totally exposed for long periods of time while you prepare your acrylic lid. But still, $350 for that drive is rediculous. I thought the original Raptors were expensive. Ayyyye.

Pretty sweet birthday present :) What's this I hear of HKEPC having one right now, links?

I'm better with a Microsoft Optical mouse than I am with an MX518 :D Cool

Ya.. You never get 100% manufacturing efficiency. Even if you did, there are numerous points in which it can be damaged between the factory, reseller/retailer, and your computer.

The A8N SLI and a NeoHE combo have a known problem. When did you get the board? Do you have the latest bios? If updating doesn't solve the problem, you could try RMA'ing it to ASUS and seeing if the replacement works properly. But if you really don't want to RMA, I highly recommend the...

Even if it didn't work, it's not that bad. I was in a search for some Cat6 rated connectors for a while, and I found one sight that was supposedly verified secure by some company I'd never heard of that was similar to Verisign. But the image was not linked to anything and still had the...

[/url] Then how do you justify recommending that PSU?

Inwin Powerman. I think the Egg sells them.

That's a Powerman 4xx watt unit. :) damn dirty apes... how dare they make that

Well I figured a 2"x2" base would be plenty big enough for an A64 (what I plan on using it for). And onlinemetals has a 0.625" thick x 2" x 12" plate for $33 which is cheap enough for me, especially considering that's 6 blocks worth :) Much cheaper than spending $50 each. I'm thinking of a...

I'm going to be building a custom case at my dad's friend's auto shop sometime this month/next month, and I'm toying with the idea of also milling custom waterblocks while I'm at it. But my problem is, I don't know where to get a small block of copper. I found one place online (online...

Oh comon now. It's not that bad, I play in 2.0a and it still looks darn good. Get whichever you'd like. They're both good cards.

Worth the $20 for the upgrade from the demo? What's different than the demo?

CA too. Im thinking about going to get one now...

Why wouldn't you? It has the same pinout, just longer. 12v | 12v | 12v | 12v Gr | Gr | Gr | Gr It should be like 24pin ATX connectors, the pinouts are all the same for 20, but there's 4 extra hanging off.

What are the ratings on the current PSU? Shorter ATX PSUs aren't easy to find, much less ones that can handle that system. After doing some googling, shorter ATX PSUs are referred to as "PS3/PSIII" form factor. But 16A on the +12v rail makes me worry about its ability to stably...

I had an XClio 450W (new version with the rubber coating) that I played with for a while, it overvolts slightly outside of the specified 5% to 12.6-12.8v. Done with software readings, and yes, yes, I know they're not the most accurate on the planet. But if you have a good motherboard it does...

rofl :) Ya, Xconnects seem to be really sketchy, some work, some explode.

No, for the love of god man don't do it! Seasonic OCZ Silverstone Antec PCP&C Enermax (Liberty) Fortron/Sparkle Zippy Tagan I'd recommend most SLi ready PSU's from any of those brands. Just don't use a PSU just because it's cheap. It may have the connectors, but it doesn't have the...

Looks like artifacts, usually better case cooling will fix this as it's a result of the card overheating. Did the fan on the cooler die? RMA it just in case.

You'd have to have a pretty crappy 19" CRT to have it not support 1600x1200. My 17" does.

He is right.

It's all LAN-LAN transfers. I thought routers for routing, switches for switching is what it does. But I still fail to see how even a shitty 16 port switch can perform so poorly (while having enough switching fabric) under minimal transfers. It seems to me as though it would require some...

So, I've been looking at switches that may resolve the problem and I've narrowed it down to two. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817111455 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16833124043 I like both, but I'm leaning towards the TRENDnet over the...

NOTE: I'm using a separate 16 port 10/100 switch (Zonet ZFS3016B bad, I know), and it has plenty of switching fabric (or atleast, i'm assuming it does). What I'm suspecting to be the culprit right now: Flow Control (I know of no way to disable this) Router I have a D-Link BDI-514 that I...

I run house LANs of usually 10-15 people and at every LAN when even one or two people are transferring files the speeds are horrendous for everyone. It even slows down the internet connection. I suspect the culprit to be my router. It's a Network Everywhere (Linksys Cheapo Depot) NR041, it works...

I know the cable is solid. And I was using connectors from a bag I ordered off of newegg with the label "Cat5 enhanced for solid 100pcs" and right on the boxes of Cat6 it says solid. http://www.cyberguys.com/templates/searchdetail.asp?T1=180+0218&sk=MC51419

That doesn't work for me, damn pins don't budge. And besides, I know my crimper works 100% since it works on all my other cable. It's either the connectors or the copper conducters are too hard for the pins to punch through. Anyway, I just went ahead and ordered some Cat6 connectors, so...

Yes, I know what I'm doing. When I crimp with Cat6 some of the contacts aren't pushed down into the wire. But with Cat5e it works perfectly.