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Thank you all for you input! I also find screen tearing and judder very distracting so this sounds like a good move. Hopefully my 980's will get the job done for a while longer :)

So when I built my PC a while ago the Dell U3415W just came out and I ended up getting it. Been a lovely monitor but I've been gaming more and have been hearing how great higher refresh rate is with g-sync. I'm considering upgrading at this point to a new monitor and settled on the Asus PG348Q...

Also very pleased with my Strix 980! I ended up taking off the stock cooler though and putting on the new EK Strix waterblock. VRM and GPU are very cool under load now and card is a solid overclocker.

Thanks for the info, the 1882i looks like the best bet for me. I especially like they included a fan, always had a problem with heat on LSI boards in the past.

I don't see myself going any higher than 6 drives, maybe 7 if I wanted to do a hot spare. Trying not to spend more than $700. Running win7 64bit. I havent read much on the Areca controllers, how about the arc-1882i?

I currently have an external sans digital raid enclosure with 5 seagate 3tb 7200rom drives in raid5 and connected via esata. It was mainly used to store larger files, cheap solution, but I recently consolidated some drives in my system and have been using the array for pretty much everything...

I think I'm more interested to know if they included dts-hd:ma with this update. Anybody know?

If reseating the block didn't help and all the air is out of the loop it could be a problem with the IHS. Have you tried lapping it?

Looks like algae to me too... I've been using hydrx in my cpu loop for awhile now and haven't had that happen. Are you using any type of biocide?

I've only had one ddc die on me but that was enough to make me replace them. I'm using 2 mcp655's now and they work great. Much better track record as well...

Check out some of the kits that Petra offers, www.petrastechshop.com. They include some of the better components out there and is really the only "kits" i would personally recommend. If you're just cooling the cpu you could get away with a 2x120 rad but if you're adding any other blocks you...

Are those core temps at stock clocks on your cpu? If so then I would try reseating the block and if that fails you could always try lapping in case you have a chip with one of the bad IHS's. Otherwise if your running it with a decent amount of voltage those temps may not be wrong. I'm not...

It's really not a problem if you need to make a longer tubing run. Just make sure your pump is below the micro res.

Is there a reason why you're mounting 3 120mm BIP's in there? Space concerns or something? The loop would be much less restrictive with say a PA120.3 or MCR320 and most likely perform better. You also have a micro-res and t-line? Are you using the t-line as a drain because you wouldnt really...

If the thermochill won't work than a mcr320 would be the next best choice. Much better with lower speed fans than the BIP rad's... You can add your vid card to the loop and still have decent temps although I wouldn't add any other blocks at that point. However lets say you went SLI at some...

That should be fine for a cpu only loop but you may want to go with a 3x120 rad if you ever plan on adding any other blocks. As far as how high you can take the processor is hard to say. Depends on how well the particular chip you get scales... I hear the G0 stepping is the one to get with...

You can get the revised bottom for the res to stop the cyclone effect. http://ekwaterblocks.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=26&products_id=172

+1 for the mcp655... very reliable pump and I don't think its noisy at all. I ended up putting mine on a piece of petra's gel stuff, works great!

2.8ghz is a nice overclock and as long as your temps arent too high you can keep those settings. 2.6ghz is pretty good though for stock voltage :)

What kind of vcore are you putting in? I have a 3800 in my other pc with a dfi lan party and 1gb corsair 3200XL and i was able to get it stable at 2.7ghz. Using 270mhz x 10, 1.5vcore, 3x HTT, and ddr333 5:6 divider.

There is lots of arguments with loop order but it doesnt really matter in the end. The water will reach a certain equilibrium throughout the loop and the change of putting a rad in a certain place is so small you'll be lucky if you see a difference +/- 1c. So basically put it wherever it will...

Besides the GPU from what I can see in the picks i could only make out he was using the Fuzion and a EK Multi-Res. I'm guessing the rad is a Thermochill mounted up top based on the screw spacing in the pics with the top grill.

If you're just cooling the CPU that does indeed simply things as oneil said. Also, you can easily fit up to a 3x120 rad in the top of that case if your willing to do a little modding. This size rad would also give you a little head room if you decide to add additional blocks to the loop later...

Not bad! I would probably make the same recommendations as others as far as res placement goes. Also, some fans on the rad is a must imo so you're moving the cooler ambient air over it rather then the exhaust from your case. From what I've read on the E6850 the boost in FSB only gave about 6%...

Generally kits are frowned upon in the w/cing communities be it for their performance, price, and/or components. You should also take into consideration why you want to go the water route in the first place. Are you looking for some good overclocking potential or just want a quieter PC? Most...

I'm suprised you got a bad one, let alone two! I usually don't hear about many problems with the 655's and I use two myself. Sure the psu is ok? I know some of them require more then just the draw of the pumps to turn on.

Pickup a pair of these barbs for your PA 120.3: http://www.petrastechshop.com/aqhifig3th1o.html. I'm also partial to 7/16 tubing... Gives a very snug fit over the barbs and has a great bend radius. Looking forward to the build!

I was wondering when you would chime in newls1 :p . Great work, I see you have it on Petra's now as well!

The intel quad core cpu's are absolute heat monsters so a 2x120 rad is a minimum imo. The BIX rad is designed for higher cfm fans so if you don't mind the noise you can stick with it. For med/low cfm fans the thermochill pa rads the best and the swiftech mcr220 is a good second choice. You...

Agreed, the mcr rads are great for the price... I use an mcr220 for my gpu loop and have very good temps. The thermochill pa rads are hands down the best, especially with lower rpm fans, but pricey.

You should always have the coolest possible air going through the rad... Best bet is to use a pull config and draw in air from outside the case.

Koolance recently decided to cut up some of HWLabs rad's and make the statement their aluminum rad's are better than copper. Check out www.hwlabs.com for a great rebuttal.

Yate Loon's are a great choice like many others said, the D12SL are the most popular... however you didn't mention what rad you purchased? This could make a big difference in the type of fan you should buy. For instance, the Yate's D12SL's work great on BIP's, MCR's, and Thermochill's but not...

The Koolance RP-1000 is rather overpriced IMO and doesn't really offer anything substantial. Although it was nice of them to include a better pump than the original Exos systems its still a stock Laing 18w DDC. I would recommend just buying the pump and getting Petra's top as it will give you...

Agree with Arcygenical, if space is an issue the only 1x120 rad that would handle it is the PA160, but be advised it is larger than your standard 120mm rad. They aren't that cheap in comparison to the BIP's and Swiftech's but the performance is great, especially when paired with lower CFM fans...

I doubt putting a top on the pump will do much since your loop doesn't appear to be that restrictive. However better blocks and a rad would most likely make a difference.

Your load temps would most likely drop a little but nothing substantial. A single 120 rad doesn't provide that much cooling power so I think a 2x120 rad would be a better choice.

I've heard of some people doing this but I would think it doesn't transfer heat as well. Pure distilled water seems to still be the best.

I would highly recommend against using water wetter in your loop... A few searches around forums will show exactly what i'm talking about. I've seen it do a number to a lot of blocks but it almost sounds like you got some biological growth, hard to tell without pictures. Personally i would...

It's not out of the ordinary and I've seen plenty of people incorporate an inline filter into the loop. For the most part though they don't keep it in there for extended periods of time and usually take it out after a week or so just to remove any lingering debris that may be present.