Pretty much this. The X3D has made overclocking the cpu and ram a moot point. Unless your mobo has an external clock generator, leave it stock and enjoy the games.
Try enabling the default DOCP ram timings. I started from there and started tightening the primary timings until I found a stable spot. Then the secondary timings. Mine defaulted to GDM off and 1T so I left it at that.
There's a chart for setting the TRFC.
Should be able to do -30 all cores using PBO2 curve optimizer with the tweaks from overclock.net
Here's mine. I settled for 1866. FCLK 1900 is a black hole. Anything above that is WHEA central
I had the same issue. Couldn't even go above 2120 MHz. Increase the SoC value (the box in red) until the card is stable. I did 100 at a time. Use timespy to check stability. 2150MHz score will be higher than 2125 MHz (I did 25MHz increments).
A few things I picked up with MPT
1. To calculate...
Thanks for the tip bl4C3y3 . I went down a rabbit hole with MPT. I ended up settling on 2600/2700 @ 1.2v and overclocked the memory to 2150MHz fast timing. All it needed was more voltage on the SoC. Changed the power limit to 380w +15% since the card now pulls in 434w. Left the TDC @ 320...
Yeah. It's set at 345W & 365A. This card likes wattages. I had it at 325W / 345A & 2600 / 2700 and only managed 21538. Setting it to 345W + 15% gave me those numbers. Memory sucks though, can't get over 2020.
I"m not sure what AMD did to the reference card bios but I'm not able to go above...
First time building a custom loop. Modded the NZXT H510 for better airflow. I've contemplated on watercooling my 6900xt for over half a year. Finally took the plunge and couldn't believe I waited this long to build a custom loop. Things have come a long way from using a heater core.
Anyone got an 1155 i5/i7 sandy bridge or ivy bridge cpu laying around they're looking to get rid of? I'm giving this pc to a friend and wanted something better than an i3-2120 in it.
Replaced the WASD keys and convert from red to white LED. Ended up down a rabbit hole troubleshooting the brightness of the LEDs.
Found out the hard way, it's not plug n play with LED colors. The white weren't bright whatsoever.
My google-fu failed me in searching to see if anyone else was...
It's a shot in the dark. Gave a co-worker 13 yr old grandson some of my parts I had laying around to build a computer. The CPU I gave them is does not fit this board and I would like to see if you guys had one laying around. Let me know how much.
Out of the box, this will not do 4K 60HZ 4:4:4 on Windows 10 without some driver modification. I finally got it working using instructions from avsforum. Link for those interested...
I have no plans for adopting usb type-c unless forced to by the peripherals that I use on a daily basis or usb connectors go the way of ps/2, serial, parallels, etc.
Been using f.lux for a while. I have no problem sleeping with or without it. For me, what it does though is make the monitors less bright at night. Setting it on slow transition, you will hardly notice the change as it dims the blue.
There's an option under settings > update & security > windows update > advanced options to turn it off. I turned it off during installed and lo and behold, it's still active.
It's on there. Did a query last night and more products showed up when searching for refurbished than on the main listing.
Here's a link: Site Search
Keyboards, SSD, AIO, USB Drives, Speakers, and more. Enjoy
So read up on the Minecraft Windows 10 Beta version and it appears to be similar to the Pocket Edition without all the mods capability. It will take some time before it catches up with the original Minecraft.
Still looking for someone willing to part with an unused mojang minecraft account.