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Be wary of the different ways in which dot pitch is measured in shadow mask vs aperture grill. https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/a-thg-primer,393-3.html

Flod (from this forum) did some cool measurements for input lag (measured as time from mouse input to crt lighting up): https://www.esreality.com/post/2691945/microsecond-input-lag-measurements/ He measured usb-crt latencies as low as 400 microseconds, whereas his LCD was about 4 times as much...

That's very encouraging!

fantastic, and good on you for being persistent - this may help others down the road :)

Good luck, and let us know how it works out. You're not the first to encounter this problem.

Are you by any chance using a USB extension cable to connect the adaptor? If so, try without it.

Not sure. Maybe try downloading windas from a different place. One thing i notice when using WinDAS is that it always crashes the first time I load it up, but then works fine afterwards.

Is your cable being picked up in device manager? (some of them need drivers). Have you mapped it to a COM port that WinDAS can access?

I *think* one of my early FW900's had a mismatched stand that I had swapped from another one, but I can't remember for sure.

There's a windas geometry guide hanging out somewhere on this thread, may take a bit of hunting - it's either a pdf or doc file. Bit tedious to adjust geometry though.

I'd try a clean driver installation, and make sure you're using the argyll drivers when you install the drivers. These are windows 7 instructions, and the procedure may well work for windows 10: https://www.argyllcms.com/doc/Installing_MSWindows.html#WINV7

try dispcal -v 3 -R while the instrument is in place, and let me know what happens.

what message do you get when you do the dispcal command? The process should take quite a while to complete, and will render several color patches.

Yea dispcal has evolved since the guide was created, and I'm unable to edit the original post: Try this: dispcal -m -qm -F -G2.4 -f0 (not sure if this is ideal, but I'm basing it on this post...

Don't think it really makes a diff, but to go by the book probably use a white screen.

Just go for consistency in placement, and ensure monitor has had an hour or so to warm up.

Make sure that when you're doing your grayscale testing in HCFR after argyll step that you are asking HCFR to use video lut (might be termed gamma ramp or something) when doing it. Else it won't test the monitor with the argyll lut that you just created.

if you get the i1d3, this issue should sort itself out, but glad you got the monitor to a good place.

hmm, been a long time since I've used DTP-94. This may be relevant: https://www.freelists.org/post/argyllcms/With-latest-rev-of-ArgyllCMS-DTP94-driver-not-loading,2 (graeme gill is the creator of Argyll - he's a fairly accessible person so if you post on the argyllcms mailing list you'll...

Argyll CMS has drivers that should work - if you're interested in using Xrite/Calibrate software, then I don't think you'll be able to do so with OEM version. But if you're just interested in using Argyll, HCFR, or DisplayCAL (which I believe all use Argyll as the back end), then you'll be fine...

Yea you might be right - I missed that nuance - that the colorchecker seems to come in pro and non pro versions. And yes, I think the firmware limitation is between pro and non pro models (regardless of branding) - but not 100% sure. I also think Argyll will work with any version (no matter the...

Read this: https://hub.displaycal.net/forums/topic/is-it-wise-to-buy-x-rite-i1-display-pro-plus-now-in-2022/#post-35082 I believe the colorchecker display will work with argyll, but will be 4-5 times slower This might be what you want (but not sure, do your research)...

Nice, DTP-94 is good, but if you want more precision with black levels, the i1d3 will serve you better. without colorimeter... I suppose theoretically you could match chromaticity of the screen with a physical reference patch, but I think you'd need standard illumination to render the patch...

Hey gamuted, glad you came across the guide :) 1) No experience with the ColorChecker series - but it looks like the same piece of hardware. I haven't kept up with the latest branding and iterations of the colorimeter, and not sure whether it's better to get OEM or not. 2) Not sure about the...

You did unleash the seeds of a revolution in my own mind. It may be while before I get round to it, but you gave me hope and inspiration :)

I can objectively test your hypothesis by taking some measurements to see the area of desaturation. Might have time to do it this wknd.

By corner, meant the corners of the gamut as visualized on the CIE 1931 color space chromaticity diagram, which represent the chromaticity of the primaries of the relevant color space (in this case, Rec 709). And yes, if you have a white box next to a red box, there is going to be significant...

I'm not convinced that that color purity is affected by light pollution from nearby phosphors (whether due to electron backscatter or internal reflections). I've taken several chromaticity (and spectral, using a spectroradiometer) measurements of primary color patches, and the readings are right...

yea, just looked up a couple plots - the green and red are both shifted in hue and saturation, and overall gamut is smaller in 601.

My understanding is that the gamut of CRTs is quite limited: the BVM's phosphors were in line with BT.601, which is slightly diff from 709 (if memory serves, one of the primaries is slightly less saturated than the corresponding 709 primary). Yes, color purity will be affected by bleeding with...

When you mention color, are you referring to the limited color gamut of CRTs relative to wide gamut workflows? Or something else?

I've had a couple units that started to give me an issue that might be related. When I turned on the screen it would become very bright (red in my case), and I'd need to turn it off and then on again to stop it. Looks like when you turned it off and then back on it didn't get as bright, so may...

This should help.

on the FW900, there is a second step where you do the same thing, but I believe only the green gun is active. Perhaps this step doesn't exist on the F520. My thinking was that the poor results you're experiencing may have been due to the two steps being adjusted differently relative to each...

Were you using a colorimeter? Also, what approach did you use to set the G2 levels during those first two early steps? (one where there is black, and one with a greenish black)

If you're sure that the cable is good (with drivers if you need them), then not sure - sounds like it could be the tube (EEPROM, or something else). One thing I can say is that I've had issues with my tubes when trying to load DAT files - it doesn't seem like a reliable way to store...

congrats on snagging one of these tubes! Not sure what's going on here, but maybe try a different copy of windas. Maybe try the one in the video description here: (also has instructions on how to get it to work in non xp versions of windows) Also, check video description in this one for some...

very cool, thanks for sharing this :)

Not sure what's going on with your 454, looks strange. To clarify, those moving lines are visible to you right? (i.e. they're not an artifact of refresh rate interacting with camera framerate). As for the click and refocus with your other crt, many people here, including myself, have...

great job!!