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So if it almost beats all air coolers then it isn't the best. Other air coolers can match water coolers and better fans exist. Noctuas are cool but a delta will still literally blow it away. *Edit* Even in the video the Thermalright comes out ahead. So what's this about nothing else in the...

I guess if you're a fanboy, sure.

7 food stamps? Man, that's a lot of returned cases of pop for cig money right there.

I disagree. Do it, everyone! I'll even do it too if only I could remember/find my credit card number/ paypal account/ whatever other payment info they take. Oh man, what a shame.

I mean a P1S uses this stuff too.

I guess anything is possible? All good though. Glad you found the issue.

Ah, klipper in general? It just allows a lot of software compensations to allow printing faster. The most important are input shaping and pressure advance. The former reduces or even gets rid of ringing/rippling allowing higher accelerations while maintaining quality. The latter slows down flow...

Hahahahahaha. Been there, don't feel too bad :D Still odd about the difference if it was using the same filament, but whatevs. Enjoy!

Well the K1 already uses creality's cut down version of klipper. So if you want the full experience and to be rid of the creality software you can just root it and install normal klipper. I hear it's a fairly popular thing to do on the K1 max.

That's why you just replace their crap with real Klipper.... Idk. If I wanted to upgrade a printer I'd rather it be a cheap one and wind up with something better than bambu. With the added bonus of no bambu baggage.

Why buy bambu to upgrade? Then you're just going to be back at square one of "oh man this doesn't work". It's a bit odd for people to be like "oh man they're perfect" and then go "but I'm going to upgrade X,Y,Z"

You shouldn't have to touch your firmware. The g codes are just extra commands the slicer is sending directly that are built into the file.

Possible. I might download Simplify3D and see if I can import a profile from the generated g code.

Huh. Maybe you can try adding those g codes to yours? Errrr wait, so yours has extra g codes?

So you went through the list at the bottom of the page? Also see if you can import into Simplify3D to check the settings.

Maybe a little. Could just be in need of flow rate adjustment. That doesn't explain why the left print is so much cleaner than the right. *Edit* When you get back OP, try doing another generated test print. Verify the temp is the same and that it comes out fine again.

Assuming his normal profile is using the same temp as the test he generated, that shouldn't be it. The problem is that the generated test came out clean. It won't be hardware related.

Huh, that'd be weird. I'm guessing you went through the section at the bottom of that page about not being able to translate test results to your actual printing? Wish I could help with any of the actual codes, but it's been years since I've done any Marlin stuff. *Edit* Oh. It's sliced using...

Take a look at this: https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/english-forum-general-discussion-announcements-and-releases/extract-slicer-settings-from-gcode-file/ Can you make a new profile using settings imported from the generated g code and compare to your profile? There has to be a settings difference.

Ah, so it generated a g code? *Edit* And I assume you generated Prusa g code?

So what was the test on the left sliced with?

Yeah I mean the printers themselves are fine (for being tinker free), but the company itself acts against the spirit of the 3d printing hobby. Make of that what you will. I know some scoff at the idea of supporting open source when they can buy a better product that's against it...but I just...

Recent stuff I've heard is them attempting to patent stuff that's been open source in the printing community. Probably won't work, but still....not a good thing. I think one of the funnier ones was trying to patent variable layer height in the slicer. There's the fun bit about the printer...

Personally think they're a sketchy company, but can understand why people would be interested.

Copper rads are overrated. Design wins out. Actually...aren't like all the name brand rads copper nowadays? My HWlabs are copper under the paint. Maybe I've seen brass. Haven't seen aluminum in awhile.

Any reason for the choices? If not I vote HWlabs. Best PC rads.

Just a brotha tryin' to earn his food stamps.

And now out of stock when I see the honey deal again. With my .edu account the base price dropped to $225. With Chase and Honey it would have been at like $130 before tax. Just wasn't meant to be lol.

I can check, but it had a timer that ran out

It's all good. Probably for the better.

Eh, honey offer expired just as I was seeing about combining it with the 20% chase offer. Oh well I guess.

As someone who really likes mods, steam workshop is pretty nice to have.

Speak for yourself.

S1 wasn't too bad. Fairly watchable. The rest? Train wreck.

The only part of amazon I consider better is the speed of delivery (of course) and the easy return policy. The "legit factor" really doesn't seem any higher. Also Ali knows how to run an actual sale.

If that's how seriously you want to take WoW, be my guest lol. WoWs "story" is pretty bankrupt by now. Sure, they can try. They'll most likely fail.

Yeah now I'm curious and wish I had my previous loop/ case to do a real test. Kids taking all my time away to work on this stuff lol.

Ah my fans are the Corsair ml120s. Not going to do as much work as the noctuas, that's for sure. The only separate case fan is a single 140mm at the back. The before and after rad temps don't matter. It's all about how cool your coolant is above ambient. Now I know why my aquasuite isn't...

Maybe the type of rad matters? I specifically went for ones that scale extremely well with the more air you push at them. Then I sandwiched them inbetween fans. GTR 480s. Scale with air flow like no other pc rad. *Edit* Blah, naturally my aquasuite doesn't want to load up. Yet another thing to...

Just going to agree to disagree. I'm not even saying you're wrong. But actual experience shows it matters much less. When I started custom watercooling around 15 years ago I thought the same way.