So if it almost beats all air coolers then it isn't the best. Other air coolers can match water coolers and better fans exist. Noctuas are cool but a delta will still literally blow it away.
*Edit* Even in the video the Thermalright comes out ahead. So what's this about nothing else in the...
Ah, klipper in general? It just allows a lot of software compensations to allow printing faster. The most important are input shaping and pressure advance. The former reduces or even gets rid of ringing/rippling allowing higher accelerations while maintaining quality. The latter slows down flow...
Well the K1 already uses creality's cut down version of klipper. So if you want the full experience and to be rid of the creality software you can just root it and install normal klipper. I hear it's a fairly popular thing to do on the K1 max.
That's why you just replace their crap with real Klipper....
Idk. If I wanted to upgrade a printer I'd rather it be a cheap one and wind up with something better than bambu. With the added bonus of no bambu baggage.
Why buy bambu to upgrade? Then you're just going to be back at square one of "oh man this doesn't work".
It's a bit odd for people to be like "oh man they're perfect" and then go "but I'm going to upgrade X,Y,Z"
Maybe a little. Could just be in need of flow rate adjustment. That doesn't explain why the left print is so much cleaner than the right.
*Edit* When you get back OP, try doing another generated test print. Verify the temp is the same and that it comes out fine again.
Huh, that'd be weird.
I'm guessing you went through the section at the bottom of that page about not being able to translate test results to your actual printing?
Wish I could help with any of the actual codes, but it's been years since I've done any Marlin stuff.
*Edit* Oh. It's sliced using...
Take a look at this:
Can you make a new profile using settings imported from the generated g code and compare to your profile?
There has to be a settings difference.
Yeah I mean the printers themselves are fine (for being tinker free), but the company itself acts against the spirit of the 3d printing hobby.
Make of that what you will. I know some scoff at the idea of supporting open source when they can buy a better product that's against it...but I just...
Recent stuff I've heard is them attempting to patent stuff that's been open source in the printing community.
Probably won't work, but still....not a good thing. I think one of the funnier ones was trying to patent variable layer height in the slicer. There's the fun bit about the printer...
Copper rads are overrated. Design wins out.
Actually...aren't like all the name brand rads copper nowadays? My HWlabs are copper under the paint. Maybe I've seen brass. Haven't seen aluminum in awhile.
Ah my fans are the Corsair ml120s. Not going to do as much work as the noctuas, that's for sure. The only separate case fan is a single 140mm at the back.
The before and after rad temps don't matter. It's all about how cool your coolant is above ambient. Now I know why my aquasuite isn't...
Maybe the type of rad matters? I specifically went for ones that scale extremely well with the more air you push at them. Then I sandwiched them inbetween fans. GTR 480s. Scale with air flow like no other pc rad.
*Edit* Blah, naturally my aquasuite doesn't want to load up. Yet another thing to...