tall box with a big ^ hat with outlet vents under the overhang,, fans a few inches up from the bottom blowing up, projector 2/3 up from the bottom. Mount with most of the bottom open a min of 4 feet off the ground or other flat surface.
You need to separate the battery and charging system from the buck/boost except when the power goes out.
This can be done with a diodes(low power) or a mosfet(high power) for near instantaneous switch over.
Use a capacitor to smooth out the transition and the output after the buck/boost circuit...
ts the tv not the soundbar.
All the soundbar does is play what comes out on the cable.
It does not know which app is supplying the sound.
Contact support for the tv and they might have a firmware update
yes many of them are fan on full all the time vs fan only when on battery or at least reduced speed when not on battery.
That said they will operate at higher room temperatures without throwing an error.
In an industrial setting the Eaton will be running after the others error out.
Spam and using trademarks without permission are not a good business model and not a good way to meet new clients.
If I bothered to engage it would be a c&d letter from an attorney demanding you take the pages off the net.
I would then tell everyone I know not to do business with you.
I have noticed the stutters he talks about on my 12400 dell which is 6P cores.
It was worse when I got it and slightly better after a bios/microcode and driver update.
I gave up chasing it down as its livable.
usb ssd drive if possible would be best for that amount of writes.
If not try the samsung bar plus or other more premium drive.
I haven't used this drive but its cheap for what it is and the brand is ok. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RMYGZ1L
Tried many times with about a 75% success rate.
Put it back in the machine, boot from an os image to command prompt.
The commands are easy to find.
This has a much higher success rate than the drive in a usb adapter for me.
I dont trust most 3rd party tools for this.
They don't last long.
A lot of the time the warranty is a bigger pain than the cost to just buy a new one.
It depends on the size and $$.
I think a lot of it is that some are not smart enough to slow down and cook themselves.
I have had better luck using them for read a lot, write little tasks...
Just assume they all suck and you wont be disappointed.
I have had the best luck with the samsung bar models for regular read and writes.
The better micro ones are ok for read a lot write little. They do not stand up to writes well.
Use the right tool for the job.
Sandisk has gone downhill.
I have had a lot of hardware fail in the first few months over the years.
It is not uncommon even with the best brands.
How they handle the rma separates the good companies from the bad.
Over the years WD went through periods where they were very good to ones where they sucked.
Seagate on the...
I never use recovery partitions so I often nuke them.
It is always best to rebuild with an offline disk image backup or install media.
There have been viruses that use the recovery partition install to reinfect the system.
Check and see what https://www.monoprice.com/ have then see which is cheaper direct from them or amazon.
The sell rebadged stuff like alot of other places but they check that it actually works before offering it.
I just disconnected/removed drives for the install when I set up a similar system.
You can then use the motherboards keyboard shortcut to pick a boot drive.
I used grub on a usb drive to pick between the 4 oses.
2 windows versions, Debian and freebsd
Pretty much anything I do that needs anything beyond a few cores will peg them all for some amount of time.
The E cores are a waste of space and $$$ that could have been used for more powerful cores in many use cases where a more powerful cpu is useful.
Any step where it is converted adds switching delays or more properly clock skew which limits the timing differences in a pulse width modulation systems.
The skew is also different for the rise and fall of the signal, and can vary based on pulse width and temperature of the electronics...
Cyperpower, sinewave which is better for your power supplies and I have used a ton of that unit with good results.
Factory batteries are around $90 for the pair and new connector, Aftermarket $70ish for 2 batteries.
The eaten probably uses the same aftermarket batteries.
Recently I had one with 5 year old batteries, no alerts.
Power went off and they only held about 3 min under light load, enough to shut down.
New it would have ran that load 25min+.
Totally killed both batteries.
Replaced the batteries and its fine.
If its something critical I would replace the...
For me on servers a APC smart ups is the min.
For home/workstation PCs this is my goto:
Plan on replacing the batteries every 3-4 years.
Any kind of soft start circuit is going to put a draw on the ups its not designed to handle and present power to the power supply it is not designed to handle.
Double boom eventually if the protection circuits don't just shut them down.