Makes sense to me. Sounds like they're just being pigheaded about it. I looked up the Hitron CODA and it's ~$90 on (USA) Amazon. That was the least expensive one I could find from your list. If you can't find one used, that may be an option!
For cable modems, as long as you're at the right DOCSIS level and have an equivalent number of channels, like 8x32 or whatever, then the modems will all be equal at that point. Not accounting for the possibility that the device is just *crap* or defective or whatever.
If your provider wants to...
Continuing the plan of offering you things other than what you asked for, I have a Netgear CM1000, which as I understand it is a contemporary to the MB8600. I'm pretty sure they run the same chipset internally. Not sure if it is on your list or not; it worked great for my 1 Gbps cable when I...
Not saying that they are price competitive with HDDs, but if you move outside of the M.2 form-factor then *enterprise* 7.68TB SSDs can be relatively affordable, at least compared to the Sabrent you linked. Newegg has one for under $600.
Thanks! And back up. My personal rig is running a Gigabyte X570 AORUS MASTER that I got in a bundle combo, and I've got a B550M AORUS PRO-P in my HTPC. GB has been rock solid in the AM4 department for me!
I've got two things today! Prices are shipped as always, heat is here.
One is a Gigabyte X570I AORUS PRO WIFI. It is very lightly used - it came to a couple LAN parties with me and that is it. I've got the full retail box and everything it came with, I believe. I do not remember what BIOS...
Nope. For most users, the effect of SSDs feeling "fast" comes from their low latency, not their raw transfer speed. Unless you're regularly in the habit of reading or writing very large files, 10+ GB at a minimum, the differences between NVMe and SATA will be minimal if noticeable at all. This...
Arctic is my go-to fan vendor. I feel like Noctua are better, but not better for the money. Every time I go to buy fans, it seems like I can buy 5 packs of Arctic fans for what it seems to cost for a single Noctua of the same size.
It's entirely possible that the internal components on these drives is different, despite being marketed as the same model drive. There is also a big difference between benchmarking a drive you boot from versus a secondary drive. That's a pretty huge difference though.
If you are willing, I'd...
The only part that matters, in my experience, is having the power supply. If you're going to plug anything more than a headset or thumbdrive into it, get the ones with a power supply.
As the title suggests, I've got a bundle for sale. They've been running in my server for a couple years now with 100% uptime. My needs for virtualization have decreased and so I've swapped to a consumer platform for my 'server' and thus these parts are now no longer needed.
Supermicro...
I haven't used DriveCopy personally, but most drive cloning software is able to operate with a fully blank drive. You'll want that because it also needs to clone the boot sector, not just the partitions and such. Once the drive is copied you can extend the partition to use the remaining space on...
While drives can age without being used, I doubt they would age nearly as quickly as if they were on and active.
My entirely unscientific assumption would be that for every 3-4-ish years on the shelf sitting powered off, I would 'age' the drive in my mind by a year. Given the timeframe you're...
So age of the OS is a bit of a problem; if this was Windows 7 or whatever, I'd say just install the new drive and use Macrium Reflect to clone the disk. If you can lay you hands on an ancient version of something like Reflect you can probably do it from within Windows XP.
Alternatively, you...
Correct, WD Black WD2003FZEX is CMR, so you've got that going for you if you stick with the WD. 14 years is a good run for sure, but I don't (personally) buy into brand loyalty for basically anything, especially over the timescale that you're discussing. Basically as I see it, 14 years is good...
I don't know if you're stuck on WD for any particular reason, but you can consider the Seagate ST2000DX002 if you like. It's one of their SSHD hybrid drives and offers some minor speed benefits thanks to the hybrid design combined with still being a 7200 RPM model, while still being a standard...
I mean, if you're buying something new you could pick up SSDs and dramatically improve the system, even one that old. Unless you just love that super-slow-HDD noise and performance. Plus, generally speaking SSDs are going to be more reliable - no spinning metal or bearings to wear out, heads to...
For gaming? They're almost all the same. Write speeds aren't important for gaming, and almost zero games on the market take advantage of read speeds and latencies faster than SATA.
Plus, it depends on the game. Even *if* a faster SSD would make my Valorant map load up literally instantly, I...
Mine doesn't VPN, it has a different type of security wrapped around it. But I'm in TX, and my phone system is in Colorado, so everyone's phones are remote even if they go into our TX office.
I actually already did provide an answer; I'm reply #9.
Here is the original question:
OP provides a scenario (context), says he wants to simplify his storage with a large drive for photo/video storage. He's asking what kind of drive he should use, within the context that it will be used for...
It doesn't.
Dude asking the question is 100% on the consumer side of the equation; he does not have a 12/24G SAS header. His motherboard is running a 4th gen 4770K CPU for fuck's sake.
He is a normal computer user asking for what type of SSD should plug into his normal computer motherboard so...
While you're technically correct, most consumers operate under the misunderstanding that there are two types of SSDs; SATA at 2.5" and NVMe at M.2. Asking for a non-M.2 SSD would normally mean SATA.
Your 1.57% AFR is absolutely nothing to worry about.
Hard drives, like many devices with moving parts or parts with cyclical heating/cooling cycles, operate on the 'bathtub curve'. The bathtub curve is that they tend to fail very early in life, or very late in life, and be very reliable in the...
When you expand RAM, do something that where the system struggled before and see if it doesn't struggle now. Open 100 tabs in Chrome. Compile something big. Etc.
Samsung Magician can do a RAM-based cache trick on drives that makes them benchmark *very* well, but doesn't translate to actual real-world performance.
Capacity of RAM won't affect benchmark scores for the most part.
RAM is like the "you must be this tall to ride this ride" line at a rollercoaster. Until you've got enough, you basically can't get on the ride, but once you have enough more doesn't help.
At the sample size you are discussing - 1 drive - you are at the mercy of simple cosmic luck. All of those drives are fine, and ever if one of them has a statistically higher annual failure rate (say 3% instead of 1.5%) you'll still be in the category where it is incredibly unlikely to happen to...
Soapbox time:
If you care about your gaming, plug it in with a wire. It's that simple. Plugging in gives you the best latency possible, with 99.9% reduced chance of external interference of any kind. It just works; there is a reason "get off the WiFi and plug in hardwired" is the #1...
Assuming you have physical link lights, I would try hardcoding a static IP address on one of the adapters - probably the Intel and not the Realtek so that you're working with the most compatible and lowest common denominator connection. I have the same board and have never run into any problems...
For almost all casual home users, the bulk of the benefits from a SSD come from their solid-state nature rather than their raw sequential throughput. What I mean by that is that SSDs are faster because of the lower latency they enable by not having physically spinning bits, rather than because...