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Yes, it matches more or less your description. 1 or 2 flashes during warmup, it may have happened during the first minutes of use but that's all. Always red flashes in my case. I don't remember if there was a change in size screen. The thing is, I also had a few color flashes on another screen...

FW900 under medical treatment here. Looks like I saved it, to be continued. :cool: Background: Back in summer 2022, the screen started flashing red screens during warmup. Since it did persist, I stopped using it to find what was wrong. The electronic was checked, it was OK, so it appeared the...

It has nothing to do with heat. The chassis of the F520/G520 series is pretty weak, and the connector between the D board and A board pretty cheap too. It's not unusual to have bad contacts in that connector, that can lead to intermittent black screens.

Best joke ever. Capacitors can't be tested reliably in circuit most of the time. I guess that's how he manages to find so many "bad" capacitors ... :LOL:

I don't think so. If it were a potentiometer that was used daily, maybe it could wear out. But these were just set once in their life and sealed, there's no way they could go bad.

If the focus problem is intermittent, LEAVE THE FOCUS POTS ALONE. The setting of these pots is right, it's just that there is an electrical issue somewhere that impacts focus. Now, finding what the problem is is another story. I can be anything from a bad solder joint to a worn out component...

Actually the dynamic focus circuitry is almost entirely external to the FBT, there's only one coupling capacitor inside that may interfere if different. It would have been best to measure that on both FBT before. But anyway, better check focus with some appropriate display patterns. It may be a...

At the very least you'd need the original specifications to be able to duplicate one, and these were custom made components, the relevant informations have never been publicly available. I'm quite skeptical about the flyback replacement of ElbartoME. Of course it could be interesting as a last...

Oh come on. :facepalm: The required components are EOL and no one is going to redesign them with higher specs, no one has the infrastructure or know-how to still build high resolution/big color CRTs. And this is not a Chinese crook who is going to pull this miraculously out of his ... You know...

Do yourself a favor and ditch that idea ! According to the haze figures it would only turn the display into a blurry nightmare. :depressed: High resolution screens like these need filters with very low haze. Anything above 2% is an absolute no go, and the good ones are rather below 1% / 0.5%.

Actually, the extra grounding wires were more a personnal experiment than a known answer to a known issue. It may have increased a bit the display accuracy by reducing the noise in the signals, and also increased the brightness stability (there were unusual variations in measurements compared to...

There's one I recovered which also wasn't that good regarding colors. I replaced the capacitors of the neck board and added a couple of extra ground connexions to the chassis (the grounding tracks are too thin, the F520 has the same track pattern except it is dual layer with a single layer...

I found the complete video: Burned by criccio when I was about to reply. :whistle: Well, ok, if it wasn't already completely impossible to find one at a half decent price, now it is. Another wave of headless people is on its way with money full of their pockets, and probably not a single clue...

Oh no, not him. He's had the guts to make videos on building a NAS and ... lose his data twice in a row after. The next video on the subject was priceless: the building of a monster replacement NAS ... with seagate drives, the most unreliable ones according to Backblaze records. :ROFLMAO...

A blinking orange light means most of the time something wrong is detected and a safety is triggered. Or a signal is missing somewhere, or a power supply voltage (bad contact, flat cable not properly plugged, bad solder ...). It's unlikely to come from a bad tube. As of the red/green tints...

He's right only about the fact it's a hardware problem, but nothing proves it's necessarily a failling tube. It could as well be an electronic issue.

Oh, interesting find. I can't see any price for current models and it probably costs a kidney or two given the giant display surface, but the technology is definitively interesting. :)

That's the InterView 28hd96. It was larger but with a lower resolution. TV CRT tubes were larger as well (up to 36" for trinitrons for example), but the resolution/pitch was significantly lower than the latest computer CRTs. ;)

I'd believe this when I see it with my own eyes. :D The machinery and the knowledge to make high resolution CRTs is gone, and they didn't go past 24". Technically, it's not easy to jump to 30", and the weight would certainly become a real issue. And how could a manufacturer genuinely able to...

I wouldn't say defective capacitors. It's just that the oxide layer inside an electrolytic capacitor degrades if it remains unpowered for too long, and it needs to remain powered for some time to recover (IF it recovers, it might end shorted inside :dead:).If these monitors really are new old...

It's probably a sparkgap activating, nothing dangerous. It's a device protecting some parts of the circuitry from overvoltage, it creates a spark when the voltage reaches a threshold. It's a bit surprising to see that happen on a new monitor, but it could come from the 20 years old capacitors...

Don't worry, he put it on ebay apparently. ;) I would have loved to have a look at this one for science, maybe an evident failure like this one could have pointed out some roots for the usual G2 drift in trinitrons. But well, it obviously couldn't be shipped easily, and crossing a border...

It's unlikely, there's no electrolytic capacitor directly involved in that voltage regulation.

Nobody can provide an easy fix like that, you need a repair shop. Very bright greenish screen + visible retrace lines are symptoms for excessive G2 voltage, very excessive. Except that the issue being intermittent, this doesn't come from a bad G2 setting, but certainly a problem somewhere in the...

:LOL: Come on, the BNC connection uses the exact same signals as VGA except it misses the line allowing plug and play capability. The BNC cables may actually be a tad worse as the wires in VGA cables are shielded from one end to another whereas the wires of my BNC cables seem to be unshielded...

Unfortunately not. It's the coating coming off. Be very gentle if you clean these areas to avoid this getting worse.

I just imagined a FW900 wrapped in a nice blanket, sitting on the front seat of a truck with a cup of hot coffee. I couldn't stop laughing. :ROFLMAO:

Definitively keep the film on. It is there for good reasons, and it's been designed specifically to improve the picture of the tube it is stuck on (better contrast, less reflections and so on). It only makes sense to remove it when it is heavily damaged.

It's not even a different chipset, it's also a different PCB everytime, what a mess. I bet they just grab any adapter they can put their hands on, manufactured by other companies, and they sell it under the same reference with their brand on it. :ROFLMAO:

Oh, I know, It's just that I neither want a spyware nest nor an OS that does what he wants without asking my opinion on any of my computers. The day I'll be forced to leave windows 7, I'll probably finally switch to Linux. ;)

Oh, interesting information. Which driver version did you use ? I hope it's not one posterior to the cancellation of windows 7 support.

THAT is rough ... :ROFLMAO: Probably not recommended with a delicate CRT like trinitrons. :D

Well, if you keep the tube close to a magnet powerful enough, it may remain magnetized and that could explain your issue indeed. There aren't many ways to fix this, either wait, repeatedly apply the internal degauss function and see if that improves, if it does but that doesn't seem to be enough...

IMO it's only a matter of the entire electronic chain being able to sustain a signal frequency without distorsion. There shouldn't be a risk of failure just for using the screen in the higher fraction of its refresh range.

The chances to fix an issue with random components replacement are low, plus it's quite a waste of money and all the components may not be available anymore. For a repair to be effective, it's definitively required to understand electronics and the specific circuitry you're talking about. If an...

Actually it's a neutral grey filter. It darkens the display like the original film does but any other property it may have (especially anti-reflection, but also haze) would not be specified and probably not even unintended. It could still be a decent placeholder if it is cheap and it can be...

This or it was just a typical bidding war. Someone wants the item for a reasonable price, fails to get it because of someone else putting an insane maximum bid, then he takes revenge on this by making the final price increase as much as he can without winning the auction. In the end, the winner...

Having an orange blinking light has never meant this particular IC is failed, and it's not because this is what happened for one person that replacing that IC will fix anything for anyone else.

The most likely possibilities are a bad solder joint somewhere or an electrolytic capacitor in bordeline shape that recovers enough of its characteristics with heat. But it may be something else as well, it's hard to say without checking the inside of the monitor itself.

Indeed, anyone can go back and read. Dick, ass, and all the stuff, that's friendly, no doubt. I even let you the last word when it was obvious you wouldn't add anything relevant to the AR film subject. That being burried 2 pages away, you're starting provocation again with some filthy...