Depending on what card you have, it's always the last few percentage points that get the biggest power draw. You could probably run 70% at similar power draw as 50% performance if you spent the time to tweak it. Newer cards are a lot easier because of their more complicated boost algorithms...
I think there is a utility called more power tools for something like that for AMD cards that will allow you to drop the voltage further than the stock programs will let you. Might be worth looking into, I'm just not sure if it works with older cards like you have.
A good place might be an aftermarket cable place making sleeved cables or something like that. Just find a match for your PSU. Hopefully you don't have to buy the entire kit to get the one cable you need.
They might be dual rank already if they are older b-die no?
FWIW, I have a set of Trident Z RGB sticks that are essentially the same 14-14-14 timings @ 3200 except in 32GB (2x16GB) flavor. That might be an upgrade for the OP, if he needs more RAM, but otherwise the stuff he has now should be fine.
Raja is useless. The fact that he's still employed after this debacle is laughable.
Maybe not Intel historically, but their new CEO has a tendency to cut bait and run if he doesn't think a project is going to be profitable according to some articles I read about this.
I'm not sure what you're looking at, but a modern i3 caps out at 4C/8T just like the 2600k, is much more power efficient, has a better IGP, and is probably 50% faster on average.
You can get cheap DDR4 memory here in the forums, and get a board for under $100. Total upgrade would be around...
I would just setup an Afterburner Profile to run at 80% of the power limit (or less) and let afterburner run at startup, etc. You'd still have the advantage of using the fancy boost algorithms just with less power available to it.
I wouldn't make the same assumption as you did concerning M.2. If anything, I would assume it was on the motherboard and accessible even with a dual slot video card. The quickguide for that shuttle on their website seems to indicate that. The rest of the parts should work fine.
Yeah, it is a very smooth back even though its not the same material, so I'd probably get a case for it.
Mine ran hot until I got the setup done. Reboot the phone and it's normal now. Doesn't seem to be out of the ordinary for any Pixel phone I've set up recently.
Ok...coming from a Pixel 5... Here are some thoughts:
1). Phone is only slightly larger. I avoided the P6/P6Pro due to the larger size. This is larger than I'd like, but still not huge.
2). The front fingerprint scanner is much worse than the capacitive rear sensor (but that might be my...
I don't think anything is preventing you from doing your own research here:
TLDR: Sure...you can't exactly find modern drivers for old C-50 or E350 "APUs" or FX mobile CPUs. Looks like all Ryzen APUs are still supported with the latest driver. So it definitely...
Historically, I would agree, but the Nvidia 3XXX cards had significant spikes which actually resulted in shutting off my computer (EVGA 850W Gold with 3090 and 5800x at the time...should have been well within 850W).
If you're going to do the 100W buffer, you better make sure you have a pretty...
I had the same problem on my Pixel 3. It was a hardware problem and no amount of software tricks would fix it. Tried different camera apps, a full reset, and flashing different stock images to it. I took it to a ubreakifix and they said they couldn't fix it. I ended up trading it back to...
I just went to the store.google.com and went through the process of ordering the phone. And then when it asks about a trade-in, you fill out that you have a Pixel 3a. Offered $300 for it.
Why are you adjusting the pump %? Isn't it designed to stay at one speed? I have the 360 Basic plugged into the AIO header on my motherboard and have had no issues like you're describing.
I just checked and mine is at 2600 RPM according to motherboard monitoring software.
I guess for me it's about the security updates and battery life. I would think that after this amount of time you replaced the battery and might even be using an alternate OS.
I didn't like the Pixel 2 XL but the plain pixel 2 was one of my favorites.
Personally, I've never had a problem trading in phones to Google. They are really only looking to make sure it turns on, is factory reset, and the screen isn't cracked. As long as those three things are met, you should get all your money.