Not sure if this is something anyone has looked into, but I'm curious to learn what's the absolute minimum width of a case with each of the following:
125mm CPU cooler height restriction (Noctua U9S, Cryorig M9)
140mm fans at the front
bottom ATX PSU compatibility (is 150mm + thickness of side...
No CPU intake or PSU exhaust?
I might be an outlier but I'd rather see a simple unobstructed front-to-back airflow, PSU at the bottom (or top if inverted mobo), 4/5-slot but ATX-mobo-compatible layout, even if that adds a bit in height (and hence volume).
I think I get what you mean. The flanges are still there, just not shown in the drawing since it only depicts the cross-section. The side panel isn't just the top and bottom, it still has the sides.
I guess the challenge would be how to make the window/grooves detachable.
Another problem I have with typical windows on cases: dust. It looks awful when lit.
As for mounting, maybe there are inspirations we can take from real world architectures, something like minimal metal framing, some sort of gasket, no rounded corners.
I'm usually against windows, but in this case I'm OK with it as long as it looks as least as good as tempered glass, instead of a cheap piece of injection molded plastic, like most non-TG windows in commercially-available cases.
I have to wonder though, how much a piece of PC/laminated...
Where does the PSU go? I see 350mm height and ATX mobo support, so that rules out the traditional bottom rear placement. Top rear is possible at the expense of a couple expansion slots but that might conflict with top 240 radiator placement.
Re: S2417DG - yes it is TN, but at least it is 8-bit, has good color reproduction and horizontal viewing angle. Vertical is not as good, but that's a trade-off I'm willing to make for the sake of fast response time.
My (admittedly limited) understanding of eDP is that, besides powering the...
The Dell S2417DG I mentioned in the other thread. It's basically a 24" version of the S2716DG.
1440p 144Hz Gsync ULMB.
Personally I'd want something even smaller for traveling but there's absolutely nothing out there.
Ideally someone would make an eDP-DP adapter for one of those 17" 120Hz...
Any idea if an older/less-slim 24" 1080p monitor like the VG248QE would still fit? It is roughly 30mm wider and 15mm taller. The minimal padding leads me to believe there's not enough space but I guess there's always the Dell S2417DG.
For comparison:
VG248QE: 569.4 x 340.4 x 57.3 mm
VX24AH...
If it died during sleep then it wouldn't be unreasonable to rule out the changed fan being a significant factor.
I wouldn't make this claim if I were you without more fact-finding.
Is that divider removable? In other words, is the A4/eGPU version compatible with the M1?
Also the gadget tray is the same thing as a Grid-It, is that correct?
13.4 liters - that's pretty small. I thought it'd be a lot bigger based on the photo(s) I remember seeing from various CES coverages. They tended to focus on the front, which I thought looked dull.
On Corsair's site I see configurations with air-cooled 1070 or water-cooled 1080 Ti. I imagine...
Eeeeexactly ;)
What I'm trying to point out is that people appear to be less bothered by super-sized space-inefficient ITX cases than compact space-efficient ATX cases. That doesn't seem right.
According to tracking mine was delivered earlier today. There were no updates between Frankfurt airport and local post office receiving it. US west coast.
The AXP-140 is designed for mobos with the old-style CPU socket placement right next to the PCIe slot. See the Z77E-ITX for example. With the newer central socket placement the AXP-140 will most likely have significant overhang, meaning it will conflict with the case back/top or the PSU.
Has anyone looked into replacing the power switch/LED assembly? I could use some help identifying the switch. Looks to be 2P1T. No markings on the sides and I wil probably desolder it next if needed.
I want to keep stock appearance so anti-vandal switches are out.
Awesome, thanks. Will come in handy if I ever decide to make custom cables for this.
Now that you know which ones are the sense pins, what are you doing that makes use of this knowledge?
I searched for a bit and haven't found anything specific either.
You might be able to find out by measuring the current with a clamp meter. The sense wires should have very little current compared to the wires that actually deliver power.
I'm pretty sure the top rear screw hole is still present in the newest revision, I guess it's just no longer worn/shiny as the exterior panel no longer has the corresponding hole.