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Yeah, I wouldn't mess with that. Definitely send it back.

Get off your butt and place your order. You aren't gaining anything by sitting on the fence. Amazon has a super liberal return policy and I've played the panel lottery game with them and it's been fine.

Bump!

Bump, another price drop. Will entertain offers, too.

Bump, price drop.

Up you go!

Original owner, purchased October 2014. Fantastic monitor for color accurate work. As I'm primarily a gamer I've switched to a Gsync 144Hz display so this doesn't suit my current needs. It is in immaculate condition and comes with all original cables and box. It will be shipped in the same box...

I think I'll try out the Acer panel. Or give up on the whole mess. My replacement panel came in today. January 2016 build date, this time with a QC passed sticker on it. Blacklight bleed is comparable to my first unit. Seems to occur in more spots but the intensity isn't quite as much. Le...

This is weird. I requested a replacement from Amazon, but now the unit I have seems to have its orange glow lessened. It could entirely be me getting accustomed to it. And yes, I've read the same thing on Reddit. Who knows if it's the placebo effect or not. How are you finding your PG279Q...

That's kind of my feelings. If this was $400 I wouldn't be so bothered by it. It's the yellow that bothers me, which is from the big old bleed spot in that corner. The left corner has a hint of bleed, but not to such a degree that it colors that corner's glow. I do notice it under gaming...

I said I wouldn't do any backlight bleed tests until it became apparent it was an issue, so here I am. I noticed that the IPS glow in the lower right corner is a yellow tinge, compared to the typical silver which is apparent on the rest of the screen. I think it's the pretty heavy bleed in...

Mine as well is outside the SN range that was reported to have problems. I don't think I'll run any more backlight bleed/dead pixel tests on it as nothing is apparently wrong with the display; I'll use as normal and observe any defects if/when they occur. I do think I'll be buying a Ergotron...

I bit the bullet and ordered the PG279Q from Amazon. It just arrived, and set it up with the optimum OSD measurements from the TFT central review. I've ran it through some very basic pixel checks, so far so good. What's interesting is the backlight bleed is only present in one very small...

I agree, the fact that one must be mentally prepared to play the panel lottery to get a good sample, for a $800+ monitor, seems absurd. However, if one wants IPS + 144 Hz that seems to be the name of the game. I had a Dell S2716DG that I ended up returning as I couldn't live with a TN panel...

Honestly, if it had a G-Sync module I would consider buying one. I've had Eizo monitors for the last 3 years and absolutely love the build quality and styling. All the other 144 Hz IPS monitors have outlandish bezels that are hard for me to look past. I'll keep my eyes on this monitor...

It will be hassle free coming from Amazon. I played the monitor lottery with them and they were more than happy to send me exchange units free of charge.

Amazon has the display, but it's offered by third parties so I'm not certain if the hassle-free policy applies. B&H carry the unit as well, but they want $150 more and their shipping prices aren't nearly as attractive as Amazon, however their return/exchange policy is pretty good.

I bought one of these last week for $530 on Amazon. Hopefully they will refund the difference.

Thread necro time. I have a Eizo EV2736W whose corner bleed is really bothering me. I have a Dell S2716DG being delivered today to try out; I've not owned a TN monitor before outside of the office and wanted to try one out for gaming as I'm sick to death of the IPS corner glow of this Eizo...

If you can swing it you really should go for the single-GPU upgrade solution, which in this case would be the 980Ti. Are you unhappy with performance of the 970 @ 1440P or just have the upgrade bug?

That sounds like your driver crashed and recovered.

Understood, but give people the benefit of the doubt. What's the old saying about honey, vinegar, and bees? I'd be understandably upset if my GPU came back from an RMA in the same condition, but I also understand why the technician is responding like his back is up against a wall. The...

I can't really blame the XFX tech for being a little curt in his response email, the OP's message after getting the RMA back was more than a bit hostile.

What is your card boosting to under stock clocks? How are the temps?

I'd say the i5 is what's contributing to the lower Firestrike scores. I see folks with those hexacore i7s destroying my score with the same OCed 980Ti. Speaking of OCing, I had a pretty stabled overclock at +140/+500 which was solid in TW3 and Wolfenstein - caused a hard lock on BF4 with...

PM'd.

Boy-howdy does Wolfenstein TNO not like my overclock and results in a TDR after 30 minutes even after bumping the core voltage up a smidge. I've got it on +50mV now and if I get another TDR looks like I need to revisit my OC.

I see you guys mention Furmark issues - what about Kombustor? Isn't it based on Furmark? I tinker with it but generally use Heaven and Firestrike in my tests.

Honestly 1453 MHz is pretty good. My SC+ has an ASIC score of 70.7% and you have the same OC as me and I'm pretty happy with it. I view anything over 1400 as awesome and you aren't going to notice much of a difference except in synthetics.

That's consistent with the rig in my signature.

There is, but like Nenu but only to a certain amount dependent on your clock setting and of course your specific card. In their case anything past +38 mV didn't do anything to the boost clock and in general I think if you don't need to add voltage you shouldn't.

You are doing it correctly. If you feed it a little voltage you'll probably see the card stay at max boost more often.

I agree with this. Witcher 3 isn't exactly the most stable game, though it's gotten a lot better. I spent the better part of last evening benchmarking and settled on the following: Clock offset +150, boosts to around 1440-1468 depending on the application Mem offset +500 Power = 110%...

I have some interesting spreadsheet results with regards to additional voltage application. I used Firestrike scores as my benchmark and made observations on when the voltage and power limits were causing throttling. What I saw was that just cranking the voltage slider to max isn't necessarily...

Ah ok, thanks. Yeah I run in to that all the time while OCing and benchmarking.

Forgive me, but what does TDR stand for?

My SC+ runs hot as shit. I have a custom fan curve that gets me to 80% speed when >70C and it routinely runs in the 70-73C mark. My office seems to be getting to the 70F+ ambient range so I'm sure that's why. I'm going to experiment with backing off the voltage on my OC - I generally don't...

I added 24 mV in afterburner. So far that OC has been stable with one caveat - I did have one client crash in 90 minutes of Battlefield 4; since the driver didn't reset I won't count that against the OC (BF4 can crash for all sorts of random reasons). Witcher 3 was stable for the full 2 hour...

Currently my EVGA SC+ is at 155 core (boosts about 1430-1450), 275 mem with a smidge of voltage and Witcher 3 was stable for about 1.5 hours before getting a driver crash. Previous to that I was at 165 core, 500 clock and it was crashing every 30 minutes or so. This go around I'll bump down to...

Let's say a certain OC, while stable in synthetics (Firestrike, Kombustor) is proving not stable in games (Witcher 3). What's best to start dropping, core clock, mem clock, or both equally?