24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

Howdy friend. Just a single monitor in use here. It was for my enthusiast set up in this dim room, but became my everything setup when the pandemic and shelter in place hit.

Indeed might be fun to set up a 21" companion screen. Furniture situation is kind of tight though. Presently using a corner desk to absorb the CRTs massive depth. And I've got it flanked by some little book shelf speakers (Klipsch R-51PM).

Edit: Still basically this set up. (Speakers upgraded since to the successor model to resolve a USB issue.)

Desktop.jpg
 
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Hi everybody. I recently unboxed my backup ( and last :-( ) HP A7217A as part of a move. My old one gave up the ghost just before I moved (after probably 10 years of great service), and my backup (which had been boxed up all that time but tested when I’d first gotten it) made the moving trip to my new house. I just set it up last night. It powered up fine (thank goodness), but after Windows 10 puts it into sleep mode, the monitor will occasionally “snap on” by itself, show its small no signal menu in the middle of the screen, then immediately drop back off. As my old one never did this, I’m worried. Does anyone have any ideas as to why this is happening?

The monitor had a rough moving trip of over 1,000 miles getting to my new house, on a moving truck. It took over two weeks in this hot weather. Any chance something might have shaken loose that could be causing this?
 
but after Windows 10 puts it into sleep mode, the monitor will occasionally “snap on” by itself, show its small no signal menu in the middle of the screen, then immediately drop back off. As my old one never did this, I’m worried. Does anyone have any ideas as to why this is happening?

I have a HDMI>VGA adapter that does this. I have to unplug it from auxillary power to prevent it from keeping my monitor awake
 
Hi everybody. I recently unboxed my backup ( and last :-( ) HP A7217A as part of a move. My old one gave up the ghost just before I moved (after probably 10 years of great service), and my backup (which had been boxed up all that time but tested when I’d first gotten it) made the moving trip to my new house. I just set it up last night. It powered up fine (thank goodness), but after Windows 10 puts it into sleep mode, the monitor will occasionally “snap on” by itself, show its small no signal menu in the middle of the screen, then immediately drop back off. As my old one never did this, I’m worried. Does anyone have any ideas as to why this is happening?

The monitor had a rough moving trip of over 1,000 miles getting to my new house, on a moving truck. It took over two weeks in this hot weather. Any chance something might have shaken loose that could be causing this?
Connections on the boards might need re-seating.

Also obviously in case something failed electrically there is a chance it is not the same board (there are few of these in these monitors) as on the old monitor you could use it for spare parts.

Of course if you have any idea how to work with CRT's. If not but you do not have two left hands for these kinds of things then read about CRT safety and watch some CRT repair videos first.
Also this might be issue with something else like VGA cable, DAC if you use it, etc. Might want to try testing this with older VGA connection and/or using different VGA cable. Some motherboards do still have VGA (or DVI-I) output so those could be used for testing.
 
Have had mine briefly wake up if shared by two computers. With the computer on the selected input off, but on the other input on. In these cases, I'll switch off by the power switch.

10 years seems not bad. My original FW900 lasted about 9.
 
Connections on the boards might need re-seating.

Yeah, that’s what I was thinking. That box took a whole lot of shaking on that truck, I suspect.
Also obviously in case something failed electrically there is a chance it is not the same board (there are few of these in these monitors) as on the old monitor you could use it for spare parts.

Of course if you have any idea how to work with CRT's.

Fortunately I know enough to be able to work on stuff like this, safely. I just didn’t want to have to pull the back cover off. This thing is a bit of a monster to work on!

If not but you do not have two left hands for these kinds of things then read about CRT safety and watch some CRT repair videos first.
Also this might be issue with something else like VGA cable, DAC if you use it, etc. Might want to try testing this with older VGA connection and/or using different VGA cable. Some motherboards do still have VGA (or DVI-I) output so those could be used for testing.
I’m using the same VGA to component cable I was using on the original monitor. My PC MB still has a VGA port, luckily.
 
Have had mine briefly wake up if shared by two computers. With the computer on the selected input off, but on the other input on. In these cases, I'll switch off by the power switch.

10 years seems not bad. My original FW900 lasted about 9.
You guys are telling these sad stories and I here want my FW900 to last for at least 43 more years...
...running at exactly 121KHz horizontal and just below its absolute emission limits XD

Well, at least the saving grace for this poor little (bigLITTLE? definitely heavy as f...) is that it is being used only occasionally. Only when I feel my eyes are ready for the blast of the past 🤩

This year I used PVM 14M2E and JVC TM-H1750C more than FW900. Currently JVC took its place. Native support for (Super) Famicom and it even "supports" PS5 which sits on top of it. Too bad FW900 is not enclosed in square (rectangular?) metal box :p
 
Well, I’m hoping what was happening was just the HP burning of bits of styrofoam dust that may have gotten its way into the case after being packed away for so many years. After a couple of days of these occasional hiccups, the monitor appears to be running very nicely. No issues. Whew! :joyful:
 
Managed to steal FW900 at a semi-reasonable price but there's a catch - windas does not work properly sometimes.
I was able to do DCnv 70% and save the results then the other day everything went back to 'normal state' as it was before and even if I load successfully my saved state (after some failed attempts) it reverts back. Either NG! NG! error or check bus connection, etc. Cables are good and connected properly once again other functions are working! Sometimes I also get stuck in the state where DCnv does nothing for some reason no matter how hard I push it I see no changes. But it may work again after some time or after I chance windas copy or if I restart it or either after reboot, etc.
What can be the cause of this weird behavior and how to fix it?
Funny thing is almost everything works in the software but this. I can do all the other procedures but this.
Now that I tried to load fixed convergence state I cannot do that anymore-says that file is loaded but after 1st click comes another, monitor blinks and reverts the changes yet no error in the software. Only green window that dat file was loaded.
 
Managed to steal FW900 at a semi-reasonable price but there's a catch - windas does not work properly sometimes.
I was able to do DCnv 70% and save the results then the other day everything went back to 'normal state' as it was before and even if I load successfully my saved state (after some failed attempts) it reverts back. Either NG! NG! error or check bus connection, etc. Cables are good and connected properly once again other functions are working! Sometimes I also get stuck in the state where DCnv does nothing for some reason no matter how hard I push it I see no changes. But it may work again after some time or after I chance windas copy or if I restart it or either after reboot, etc.
What can be the cause of this weird behavior and how to fix it?
Funny thing is almost everything works in the software but this. I can do all the other procedures but this.
Now that I tried to load fixed convergence state I cannot do that anymore-says that file is loaded but after 1st click comes another, monitor blinks and reverts the changes yet no error in the software. Only green window that dat file was loaded.
congrats on snagging one of these tubes!

Not sure what's going on here, but maybe try a different copy of windas. Maybe try the one in the video description here:

(also has instructions on how to get it to work in non xp versions of windows)

Also, check video description in this one for some more links to windas:

 
congrats on snagging one of these tubes!

Not sure what's going on here, but maybe try a different copy of windas. Maybe try the one in the video description here:

(also has instructions on how to get it to work in non xp versions of windows)

Also, check video description in this one for some more links to windas:


Thanks. I use the exact copy from the first video and tried few others but no luck (I'm running it via old machine and Windows XP).
Something really weird going on here - everything was fine a day ago or so but now I can't even load the saved (fixed) state everything simply reverts back to previous state with bad convergence after few seconds when it loads (or at least tries to).
Any ideas, anyone?
 
If you're sure that the cable is good (with drivers if you need them), then not sure - sounds like it could be the tube (EEPROM, or something else).

One thing I can say is that I've had issues with my tubes when trying to load DAT files - it doesn't seem like a reliable way to store configurations.

Also, in WinDAS, after you're done your procedure(s), be sure to choose Final Setting from Procedure menu and choose OK when it asks if you set final values,
 
Hi guys, thought I'd ask about FW900's older brother here, the GDM-W900, if that's allowed. I'm having some trouble with it despite it being in mint condition and the tube being like new.

First of all, is this monitor compatible with WinDAS or DOS DAS and does it even need an adjustment (i.e. does it suffer from G2 drift)? I read somewhere that only monitors from 1998-2002 are affected and this is an older model (from 1996 I believe), however, it was manufactured quite late, in June 1999 (I think that's the year they started making FW900s, no?).

I found this on Reddit:

It seems to use the same cable as FW900 for WinDAS, female D-Sub 9-pin to mini Din (8pin), but uses a different connector for service port? Does anyone know how to find this cable or what the pinouts are? I've taken the monitor apart, but haven't noticed a service port like on the FW900 (or other Sony monitors).

Secondly, I am having trouble with 2 resolutions specifically: 720p @ 60Hz and 1080p @ 60 Hz. When I selected 720p @ 60Hz from my PC (using a graphics card with VGA out), the monitor turns bright white and shuts off and the standby light starts flashing orange (have to turn it off and on). Same things happens with my HDFury 2 when connecting an HDMI source (Wii U, 360, but not with PS3). With 1080p @ 60 Hz, the monitor does 3 things: it either clicks repeatedly (trying to switch to that resolution I guess), displays a black, slightly distorted 4:3 black image (nothing on screen) or just goes into "suspend" mode (from the manual, no horizontal sync). The monitor shows vertical sync being at 60 though. It does this with every single source (PC, PS3, 360, Wii U). However, 480p works just fine with either the PC or consoles (except for PS TV, which only displays a black screen - the monitor acts as if though there's a picture, I can see and manipulate monitor's menus, but nothing beyond that).

This isn't an isolated case, I've found other mentions of this on Reddit - it seems to be something with the model of this monitor itself, the preset timings being wrong or whatnot. I've managed to fix it from the PC side by using Custom Resolution Utility and choosing "CRT Standard timings" for 720@60 and 1080@60 - no issues now when connected to a PC (and had no issues with 720p @76, 59 or 50 and 1080p @ 80 or 76 prior to that), but the issues persist with other sources. I've been thinking of getting a PS4 Pro or a Switch, but I'm afraid the same thing will happen with 1080p. How do I "feed" it standard timings from a non-PC source?

Any clues from someone knowledgeable?

P.S. If anyone's interested in this monitor, the model is SCC-K9A-A, GDM-W900/1 SYB. The tube's model is M57LKL15X. Here's the service manual: http://nand-hate.com/wp-content/uploads/GDM-W900-W1-Chassis.pdf
 
Are you using an external power supply for the HD Fury 2? Maybe that will help.

But yeah, sounds like your monitor doesn't like LCD timings. that's unusual for sure. Most CRT's just get warped left and right sides, which can be overscanned.
 
Hi guys, I'm looking to purchase a CRT from someone and they asked me for suggestions on packing them.
I was thinking of lots of foam, double boxed inside of a wooden crate?
Anyone shipped one of these things before that might be able to help?
Would be traveling from US to Canada, and it's an FW900.
 
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Are you using an external power supply for the HD Fury 2? Maybe that will help.

But yeah, sounds like your monitor doesn't like LCD timings. that's unusual for sure. Most CRT's just get warped left and right sides, which can be overscanned.
I'm not, but it shouldn't matter - 720p shouldn't require an external power supply and 1080p should show a picture for at least a few seconds with higher resolutions before turning dark with this adapter. I've tested it on another monitor (Iiyama Vision Master Pro 450) and 1080p works fine using a 360 with HD Fury 2. The fact that it also happens with the VGA port on an older PC I have (HD6570) or a 360 using a VGA cable also tells me it has to be something with the monitor itself (other people have also used different adapters that don't work with this particular monitor).

I remembered that I also had component cables for the 360 - I just tested them via BNC. Now 720p and 1080p display fine (720p noticeably darker, but could just be the cheap multi cables I'm using), albeit with a green tint obviously (I don't have a transcoder and PC monitors obviously don't support component color space).

So yeah, the next step I'll try is to get a gender changer and use RGBHV cables. I'm wondering if it's not something to do with VGA connector in particular, maybe some of the pins... I'm not knowledgeable about it though to theorize further. It certainly is unusual, I've never come across this issue before (I have about 6 CRT PC monitors).

The fact it just so happens to have a problem with 2 common HDTV resolutions is some real ****. 1680x1050 on a 360 for example works fine, so does 1440x900, but other consoles don't support those modes... Hopefully using an adapter + BNC cables will solve this. I'm still wondering about WinDAS though.
 
FW900 are as rare as unicorns these days so no risk is tolerable 😖

I cannot find anything and I look because I'd like to have a pair of FW900's instead of just one.
Instead I got myself ordinary super cheap rounded 17" shadow mask CRT just so that I have a VGA CRT to use with retro PC stuff. It is also much easier to move around 🙃
 
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FW900 are as rare as unicorns these days so no risk is tolerable 😖

I cannot find anything and I look because I'd like to have a pair of FW900's instead of just one.
Instead I got myself ordinary super cheap rounded 17" shadow mask CRT just so that I have a VGA CRT to use with retro PC stuff. It is also much easier to move around 🙃
I have a VMP 454 and a Dell P992, but both have their own problems. For example my 454 has this problem: https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comments/pd2k7o/turned_it_on_for_the_first_time_in_a_few_months/
My CPD-520GS has a problem of a "click" sound and the image 'refocusing' almost.
And my Dell P992 is fine (needs windas adjustment when using with PC I just adjust in nvidia), but when I try to hook up a Wii via HDMI->VGA adapter this happens:



I don't have a problem running the Wii like that on either of my other monitors, no idea why the P992 doesn't accept it. It's the only one with a built in VGA cable, so maybe that's it??
Either way, the FW900 is a long term grail mostly for 16:9 games as some games I play don't have good 4:3 support and a CRT like that would look amazing.

Edit: seem to have found a method to fix the wii input on the p991, on to the other two, seems to have to do with it not accepting HDMI dacs and needing to remove the EDID pin, still need to do winDAS.,.
 
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So did anyone ever see that $35K NOS FW900 show up elsewhere again? I followed it for a bit and didn't. Seems like it all went hush hush.

I still have no reason to believe that sale wasn't legit. The display's amped up popularity, NOS in 2021 after almost 17 years, CRTs being consumable, and some folks having no issues with the money, yeah.
 
So did anyone ever see that $35K NOS FW900 show up elsewhere again? I followed it for a bit and didn't. Seems like it all went hush hush.

I still have no reason to believe that sale wasn't legit. The display's amped up popularity, NOS in 2021 after almost 17 years, CRTs being consumable, and some folks having no issues with the money, yeah.
It's entirely possible. Any rich collector in Europe could have put up that amount and by then these were well known and sought after. But it was also supposedly in an attic for that long so the idea of it being "new" old stock may be a bit farfetched as it would've aged enough to be old old stock surely. I wonder if they brought along someone with a spectrometer or something to test it out. It was probably more complicated a process than just showing up with a suitcase of Euros and dragging the monitor out the door, but it could have happened.
 
Going to cut this loose for another person to enjoy
Modded FW900 with direct cables for windas access
I'm the only person left that has admin rights ...look at bottom of page 1
Will update next week for access to this monitor
Live in Mid Atlantic area of US
 

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I was told this HDMI adapter from Gembird can hit 390mHz.

https://www.grooves.land/bgembird-h...dio-single-port-schwarz-pZZa1-2098638411.html

Not aware of any HDMI adapters that can go higher than that.
I took one for the team on this one. It's crap.
It can only do 1920x1080 60Hz (173MHz) or 1280x800 140Hz (214MHz). All the resolutions I use on my FW900 starting from 1512x945 120Hz (252MHz) are not supported, so the limit is somewhere between 214MHz and 250MHz.
It's in the trash bin now.
 

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I took one for the team on this one. It's crap.
It can only do 1920x1080 60Hz (173MHz) or 1280x800 140Hz (214MHz). All the resolutions I use on my FW900 starting from 1512x945 120Hz (252MHz) are not supported, so the limit is somewhere between 214MHz and 250MHz.
It's in the trash bin now.

Sorry, I think it's my fault. I bought one of these, which performed way better than I expected, and mentioned it on another forum.

I bought a Delock 62967 last month to use with my 2070sb. This HDMI converter was one sale, and I needed a few more dollar to get free shipping on the order, so I bought it as well. To my surprise, it performed better than the Delock. I'm using it right now - 2048x1536 at 86hz works fine, as does 2400x1800 at 60hz. Graphical glitches only show up around 400mhz. I have an Icy Box on the way, but until that arrives I'm using it as my primary DAC.

This doesn't make a lot of sense; the CH1701 chipset is rated for 200mhz which is consistent with your results and is about how well my other HDMI adapters perform. I can only guess it's from a production with non standard parts. Mine is the same model & packaging as yours.
 

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Sorry, I think it's my fault. I bought one of these, which performed way better than I expected, and mentioned it on another forum.

I bought a Delock 62967 last month to use with my 2070sb. This HDMI converter was one sale, and I needed a few more dollar to get free shipping on the order, so I bought it as well. To my surprise, it performed better than the Delock. I'm using it right now - 2048x1536 at 86hz works fine, as does 2400x1800 at 60hz. Graphical glitches only show up around 400mhz. I have an Icy Box on the way, but until that arrives I'm using it as my primary DAC.

This doesn't make a lot of sense; the CH1701 chipset is rated for 200mhz which is consistent with your results and is about how well my other HDMI adapters perform. I can only guess it's from a production with non standard parts. Mine is the same model & packaging as yours.
How can this be?
I took it out of the trash and tried 2048x1536 specifically. It can't do even 60Hz, let alone 86Hz!
What about the Delock 62967? What was the highest pixel clock you could hit? I heard something like 2560x1600 60Hz max which is 248MHz.
Please let us know about the Icy Box when you get it!
Thanks!
 
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How can this be?
I took it out of the trash and tried 2048x1536 specifically. It can't do even 60Hz, let alone 86Hz!
What about the Delock 62967? What was the highest pixel clock you could hit? I heard something like 2560x1600 60Hz max which is 248MHz.
Please let us know about the Icy Box when you get it!
Thanks!

I can go up to 340mhz with the Delock. On my 4:3 monitor this equates to 2048x1536 at 75hz, or 2304x1728 at 60hz. 2560x1600 didn't work for me.

I think these cheap HDMI converters are just a very inconsistent product. Some work better than others, but there's no way to tell before purchase - even from the same brand. It would have been nice find a reliable high-bandwidth HDMI compatible DAC but I guess that's too good to be true. I guess I was just lucky with my purchase.
 
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How can this be?
I took it out of the trash and tried 2048x1536 specifically. It can't do even 60Hz, let alone 86Hz!
What about the Delock 62967? What was the highest pixel clock you could hit? I heard something like 2560x1600 60Hz max which is 248MHz.
Please let us know about the Icy Box when you get it!
Thanks!
What does it mean "it can't do"?
Wouldn't you agree we need more information?
Like eg.
1. Are the unsupported resolutions available to be selected in the OS? If yes what is the behavior when you select unsupported resolution?
2. What GPU did you test this adapter with?
3. Is it native HDMI port or through some kind of adapter? DP->HDMI will not work for anything other than basic 1920x1200p60 or less.
4. Cable used (VGA to VGA or VGA to BNC). Is EDID from monitor passed to a GPU?

There are many factors except HDMI-VGA adapter that can make this whole thing to not work.

BTW. 2560x1600p60Hz with CRT compatible timings (GFT) is around 348MHz which is something which will most probably do not work on Delock or any such HDMI adapter on GPU without HDMI 2.0. Most Delocks should work at 340MHz but at 350MHz not so much.
 
What does it mean "it can't do"?
Wouldn't you agree we need more information?
Like eg.
1. Are the unsupported resolutions available to be selected in the OS? If yes what is the behavior when you select unsupported resolution?
2. What GPU did you test this adapter with?
3. Is it native HDMI port or through some kind of adapter? DP->HDMI will not work for anything other than basic 1920x1200p60 or less.
4. Cable used (VGA to VGA or VGA to BNC). Is EDID from monitor passed to a GPU?

There are many factors except HDMI-VGA adapter that can make this whole thing to not work.

BTW. 2560x1600p60Hz with CRT compatible timings (GFT) is around 348MHz which is something which will most probably do not work on Delock or any such HDMI adapter on GPU without HDMI 2.0. Most Delocks should work at 340MHz but at 350MHz not so much.
Ok. To clarify things:
I have three CRTs: Sony GDM-FW900, Sony GDM-F520 and Dell P1130.
I have the following converters: Sunix DPU3000, Delock variant of DPU3000, Startech DP2VGAHD20 and Gembird A-HDMI-VGA-04. I use neither. Out of all of them the Startech is glitch free and can do everything up until 375MHz.
The video card I use is the GTX 980Ti. The analog connection to my CRTs is done via a DVI-I to VGA adaptor + basic VGA-VGA cable to the VGA inputs of the CRTs
I use CRU 1.5.1 + NVIDIA Pixel Clock Patcher 1.4.14
When I use the converters listed above I connect them to either the HDMI or DP output of the video card and use a plain VGA cable to connect the CRTs.
Once I set the desired resolutions in CRU I create a .INF driver file and update the monitor driver with it (I attached the driver I made for the FW900 when using the GTX980Ti).
I also attached the INF driver I made while testing the Gembird adapter. As you can see I did an exhaustive testing. I tried every resolution that I normally use with the 980Ti and found the refresh rate that is supported by the Gembird. The max pixel clock is around 191MHz (import the INF file in CRU and check it out). I even imported the HDMI 2.0 data blocks mentioned by Enhanced Interrogator (it doesn't make a difference).
The Delock 62967 with its ANX9847 is confirmed to do 2560x1600 60Hz which is 348MHz:
 

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Yeah, I think the Nvidia pixel clock patcher should have unlocked it even if you didn't import the right DAT file in CRU.

So yeah it sounds like this Gembird adapter doesn't have a consistent chipset that it uses.
 
It
Yeah, I think the Nvidia pixel clock patcher should have unlocked it even if you didn't import the right DAT file in CRU.

So yeah it sounds like this Gembird adapter doesn't have a consistent chipset that it uses.
It's irelevant anyway. The chipset in this crap converter is nowhere near close to 340MHz, let alone 600MHz.
Do you know anything about the ICY BOX DPU 3000 variant? Does it still have the 2048x1536 issues and screen halves switching behavior like the original Sunix?
Some say it's quite different from the original:
https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comments/ob4dqd/icy_box_rebadge_sunix_dpu3000_arrived_right_out/
 
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Do you know anything about the ICY BOX DPU 3000 variant? Does it still have the 2048x1536 issues and screen halves switching behavior like the original Sunix?
Some say it's quite different from the original:
https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comments/ob4dqd/icy_box_rebadge_sunix_dpu3000_arrived_right_out/

I think I read that the 2048x1536 issue doesn't happen on nvidia cards? At least I read one account from a person with an Nvidia card saying he could do it just fine. I know side-swapping happens to everybody in a certain resolution range

But the ICY Box is identical to the Sunix as far as I can tell. The only difference is firmware, older firmware gives a slightly higher max pixel clock. But it's easy to install older firmware on the ICY Box. I posted the two firwmare I ripped in this post: https://hardforum.com/threads/24-wi...-ebay-arrived-comments.952788/post-1045084931
 
I think I read that the 2048x1536 issue doesn't happen on nvidia cards? At least I read one account from a person with an Nvidia card saying he could do it just fine. I know side-swapping happens to everybody in a certain resolution range

But the ICY Box is identical to the Sunix as far as I can tell. The only difference is firmware, older firmware gives a slightly higher max pixel clock. But it's easy to install older firmware on the ICY Box. I posted the two firwmare I ripped in this post: https://hardforum.com/threads/24-wi...-ebay-arrived-comments.952788/post-1045084931
It most definitely happens on Nvidia cards. That was my main complaint a year or so back about it.
So the new one has all the old issues and a lower pixel clock?
Great...
 
So the new one has all the old issues and a lower pixel clock?
Great...
Easy buddy, it's fine. Like I said, you just flash the firmware to the slightly older one I posted and it will work identically.

And the difference between the two firmware is really minuscule. Like, at 4:3, the older one can hit over 2880x2160, whereas the newer one caps out around 2560x1920. So maybe a max pixel clock of 510mHz instead of 540mHz? Something like that.

You're not fucking with either of those resolutions unless you have something like a late model Diamondtron or Trinitron with a 140kHz scan rate. It really is a non-issue for like 95% of people running PC CRT's
 
Does Startech DP2VGAHD20 support 10-bit color?
It sounds like a nice upgrade over Delock with its higher clock speed.

Also does it output HDMI 2.0 and VGA at the same time?
It would be cool to be able to display the same content CRT and LCD at the same time.
I did the basic test and can display FW900 resolution/timings like 1080p@107Hz via HDMI on LG 27GP950 so the idea should work as long as adapter can output to two ports at the same time.
 
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Easy buddy, it's fine. Like I said, you just flash the firmware to the slightly older one I posted and it will work identically.

And the difference between the two firmware is really minuscule. Like, at 4:3, the older one can hit over 2880x2160, whereas the newer one caps out around 2560x1920. So maybe a max pixel clock of 510mHz instead of 540mHz? Something like that.

You're not fucking with either of those resolutions unless you have something like a late model Diamondtron or Trinitron with a 140kHz scan rate. It really is a non-issue for like 95% of people running PC CRT's
I already have two DPU3000s. The Sunix and Delock one. They are identical in their issues. 2048x1536 is unusable on both my F520 and Dell P1130 and that's my MAIN resolution; it's the desktop one (that's how sharp they are). Add to that the sides-swapping and occasional trembling/jitter on any resolution and it's a completely no go for me. These adapters are crap; and I don't care if they can go "higher" but are unstable as hell. Enough said.
I was hoping the new one was better though...:(
 
I already have two DPU3000s. The Sunix and Delock one. They are identical in their issues. 2048x1536 is unusable on both my F520 and Dell P1130 and that's my MAIN resolution; it's the desktop one (that's how sharp they are). Add to that the sides-swapping and occasional trembling/jitter on any resolution and it's a completely no go for me. These adapters are crap; and I don't care if they can go "higher" but are unstable as hell. Enough said.
I was hoping the new one was better though...:(
Wouldn't 1920x1440 be a better resolution to use?
I mean videos are 1920 or 3840 pixels wide and in either way 1920 would scale better.
2048 is very odd resolution to use
 
So yeah it sounds like this Gembird adapter doesn't have a consistent chipset that it uses.

Yes, that seems to be true. Out of curiosity, I popped open some of my HDMI to VGA converters to see what was inside. The overachieving Gembird converter is the one in the first photo and, as expected, it does not use CH7101 chipset as advertised. Does anybody know what this "LK7112" chip is? I couldn't find any info with some cursory Googling, but it is really good. It's better than both my Delock 62967 and Startech DP2VGAHD20 - as mentioned before it will go to 395 mhz before green pixels start to appear.

The second pic is from a Walmart brand HDMI converter that I've had for a while. This one really does use the CH7101, and performs about as well as Petrasescu_Lucian's unit. It tops out a little under 270 mhz and the most it can reliably display is 1920x1440 at 60hz.

Wouldn't 1920x1440 be a better resolution to use?
I mean videos are 1920 or 3840 pixels wide and in either way 1920 would scale better.
2048 is very odd resolution to use

2048x1536 at 86hz is the max resolution/refresh rate for the 2070SB as specified in the user manual. That's why I typically use it as a benchmark. In practice, though, I run it at 1440x1080 most of the time so everything on the desktop is the same size as my computer's main LCD.
 

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