LG 48CX

LOL! Great responses. Full 3840x2160 is WAY too big of space for a 48" on my desk. Also, I prefer ultrawides 100%. I just wanted the deep blacks and pop of OLED. Lastly, sometimes the HDMI setting just resets even if I just turn off the TV and back on. If there was a 38" OLED Ultrawide monitor, I'd forget this troubleshooting mess and pull the trigger right now.

NO OLED FOR YOUR!!!!

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I can afford it but would still sting if I had the opportunity to return it but didn't and LG wind up not fixing it....argh but it looks great even now belt the 3080. My last TV was like 6 years old

I hear you man. I bought 3 for multi monitors. I am placing faith in it. But even as it stands now...I am shocked at how much I dig running them even at 1440p. With all the bells and whistles. 3.5 feet back. HDR. 120hz. It is striking to me even without the ideal 4k...the OLED 120hz versus crap 60hz 4k LCD.

Follow your heart and mind. I know it is a lot....
 

Haha! Trust me. As an owner of only plasma TVs over the years and this as my first OLED, it's even more painful trying to find a good monitor at something under 48" inches with decent blacks and response times.

I am sure the CX 48 would be a perfect next gen console display from the couch but for the desk, there are just too many gotchas currently from my testing as a PC monitor.
 
Haha! Trust me. As an owner of only plasma TVs over the years and this as my first OLED, it's even more painful trying to find a good monitor at something under 48" inches with decent blacks and response times.

I am sure the CX 48 would be a perfect next gen console display from the couch but for the desk, there are just too many gotchas currently from my testing as a PC monitor.

If you want custom resolutions you can always by the Alienware 55, but be careful as you may have the same thing happen to you which happened to a "friend" of mine.

1) Spend 4 grand, receive AW55 two weeks late because Dell sucks ass
2) Notice 15 pixel blemish in screen because Dell sucks ass
3) Spend a week dealing with Dell CSRs because they and Dell suck ass
4) Eventually talk them into sending replacement display for you to swap out
5) Receive replacement display but it sits unopened for a week because your business is slammed
6) Swap out old blemished display for new replacement
7) Next day your wife throws a shoe at your head and it misses you but SMASHES the brand new replacement AW55.
8) Spend another couple of days with Dell CSRs only to have them tell you piss off
9) Search high and low for replacement screen for shoe smashed one
10) Give up because there are NO replacement screens and throw whole thing in dumpster downstairs of your condo.
11) Keep using your original blemished AW55
12) Get COVID-19 and be flat on your back for two months and almost die multiple times
13) Loose a shit load of money because of being out of work
14) Get desperate and sell blemished AW55 on ebay
15) Have buyer run serial number after receiving AW55 and start a whole shitstorm with Dell
16) Have buyer file claim for his $2100 back
17) Pay buyer $2100 back and have him ship blemished AW55 to Dell
18) Be out original $4,000 purchase price and now $2100 resale price.
19) Buy a 48CX locally for $1500
20) Listen to ungrateful spoiled bitches whine on online forums!
21) Drink Heavily on a Friday
22) Profit!
 
That's.. quite the story :)

I am not trying to whine. The CX 48 is a gorgeous display but I am not the only one having issues with it for PC gaming... Just sayin.
 
LOL! Great responses. Full 3840x2160 is WAY too big of space for a 48" on my desk. Also, I prefer ultrawides 100%. I just wanted the deep blacks and pop of OLED. Lastly, sometimes the HDMI setting just resets even if I just turn off the TV and back on. If there was a 38" OLED Ultrawide monitor, I'd forget this troubleshooting mess and pull the trigger right now.
Since you have a 3080, try using GPU scaling instead of display scaling on the custom resolution. That should send a 2160p output to the TV and take it doing anything weird out of the equation.
 
Since you have a 3080, try using GPU scaling instead of display scaling on the custom resolution. That should send a 2160p output to the TV and take it doing anything weird out of the equation.

I have been trying this from the start on both HDMI 2.0 (2080 Ti) and 2.1 (3080) - Screen just goes blank on anything above 60hz for any custom res on both cards and both displays I am testing (CX 48 and Vizio 40 V)


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Damn LG. Giving the C9 owners love but not the CX? Maybe they need more time to they can roll it out with the 4:4:4 120Hz fix?
 
This is actually the fastest they have ever acted with a firmware update. Hopefully they fix the CX by the time I can actually get an Ampere card.
 
Ok so I got a 3080 and been testing with my CX 48. So far, it hasn't helped at all upgrading from a 2080 Ti:

  • When switching resolutions and settings, the HDMI 1 input keeps resetting from PC back to default HDMI. Super annoying
  • I STILL can't create a custom resolution (3840x1600) above 60hz - Yes I have tried two HDMI 2.1 cables
  • GSync is completely inconsistent or doesn't work correctly at any resolution or frequency (I have the latest NVIDIA drivers and LG firmware) - Yes, I know a "fix" is incoming but we don't have exact details or date
  • I have been testing a $249 40" Vizio V Series next to the CX 48 and even though the motion isn't as smooth and blacks aren't as deep, it's a steal for a fraction of the price.
In the end, there are just too many issues to stick with this display for a dedicated PC gaming display. Now, if LG or some other companies would be off their butts and make a 38" Ultawide OLED, it would be a dream. Yet with latest high end monitor prices at over $2000, I am more skeptical than ever...

1. Input resetting usually only happens when the TV thinks the cable is disconnected. For me this has happened pretty rarely. I have my MacBook Pro 2016 hooked up with a USB-C to HDMI 2.0 adapter and my PC hooked up with both my 2080 Ti HDMI 2.0 using a CableMatters "4K 120 Hz" cable and finally the Club3D DP to HDMI 2.1 adapter with the Club3D "10K 120 Hz" cable. For all I know this could be some 3080 driver issue as this definitely should not happen switching resolutions. I would also contact LG support about it in case it's a defective TV.
2. Just before writing this, having clean installed the latest Nvidia drivers, I created both 3840x1600 60 and 120 Hz resolutions from NVCP without issues using the Club3D adapter. So it should be possible and working. IMO there is no point running it at that res on the desktop when you can just use software like MS FancyZones to divide the display as you prefer and arrange apps. I use the bottom 2/3 of the display, effectively resulting in a ~43" 3840x1600 screen. I run a black background so the top part being empty is no issue.
3. Wait for driver/firmware fixes for this. Nothing more you can do.

38" ultrawide OLED would be nice but not happening anytime soon unless some other player (e.g. JOLED or Samsung) makes one. LG doesn't seem too keen to do it. I would take even 4K 16:9 at 38-43" but we are not there yet.

EDIT: For 1. also try disconnecting the Vizio. It might cause some strange issue that conflicts with adding the custom resolution.
 
Damn LG. Giving the C9 owners love but not the CX? Maybe they need more time to they can roll it out with the 4:4:4 120Hz fix?

I certainly hope so. As I don't own a 3080 at this point I care more about the 4:4:4 issue getting fixed than G-Sync. If Club3D manages to enable VRR on their adapter (seems they are working on it based on their Twitter) then I might even skip the 3080 altogether and wait for a refresh Super/Ti cycle, price drops or something.
 
1. Input resetting usually only happens when the TV thinks the cable is disconnected. For me this has happened pretty rarely. I have my MacBook Pro 2016 hooked up with a USB-C to HDMI 2.0 adapter and my PC hooked up with both my 2080 Ti HDMI 2.0 using a CableMatters "4K 120 Hz" cable and finally the Club3D DP to HDMI 2.1 adapter with the Club3D "10K 120 Hz" cable. For all I know this could be some 3080 driver issue as this definitely should not happen switching resolutions. I would also contact LG support about it in case it's a defective TV.
2. Just before writing this, having clean installed the latest Nvidia drivers, I created both 3840x1600 60 and 120 Hz resolutions from NVCP without issues using the Club3D adapter. So it should be possible and working. IMO there is no point running it at that res on the desktop when you can just use software like MS FancyZones to divide the display as you prefer and arrange apps. I use the bottom 2/3 of the display, effectively resulting in a ~43" 3840x1600 screen. I run a black background so the top part being empty is no issue.
3. Wait for driver/firmware fixes for this. Nothing more you can do.

38" ultrawide OLED would be nice but not happening anytime soon unless some other player (e.g. JOLED or Samsung) makes one. LG doesn't seem too keen to do it. I would take even 4K 16:9 at 38-43" but we are not there yet.

EDIT: For 1. also try disconnecting the Vizio. It might cause some strange issue that conflicts with adding the custom resolution.

Thanks for the helpful reply!

  • I don't have the Vizio hooked up at the same time as the CX, I've just been testing them both off and on and stunned at how good the Vizio is for the price. In fact, I had it a week before the CX and it's so surprising, it made the jump to OLED less impactful as I was coming from IPS panels with horrid black levels.

  • I read about the CLub3D adapter and almost picked it up but the shipping was like a week out. So, I know that creating 3840x1600 60+hz is possible in NVCP with the adapter but not sure why it isn't working straight to the CX without the adapter. Also, the reason why I prefer custom resolution and higher refresh rate is because a bunch of games like World of Warcraft, Elder Scrolls Online and even the new MS Flight Simulator do not Window correctly when your fullscreen resolution is set to 3840x2160 and you want to run at ultrawide 3840x1600. If I DO set the desktop resolution to 3840x1600 and run the games at that res, they all work perfectly. Since so many games are skipping out on true exclusive fullscreen, it messes up me trying to run custom resolutions. EDIT: I went ahead and ordered an adapter just now for testing. Won't be here til end of next week.

  • Looks like the C9 got firmware. Hopefully the CX is incoming as I truly would love to settle on a display. Also, if I can just get the Club3D adapter working right with custom res @ 60+hz, I might sell the 3080 while it's hot and stick with the 2080 Ti.
 
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Thanks for the helpful reply!

  • I don't have the Vizio hooked up at the same time as the CX, I've just been testing them both off and on and stunned at how good the Vizio is for the price. In fact, I had it a week before the CX and it's so surprising, it made the jump to OLED less impactful as I was coming from IPS panels with horrid black levels.

  • I read about the CLub3D adapter and almost picked it up but the shipping was like a week out. So, I know that creating 3840x1600 60+hz is possible in NVCP with the adapter but not sure why it isn't working straight to the CX without the adapter. Also, the reason why I prefer custom resolution and higher refresh rate is because a bunch of games like World of Warcraft, Elder Scrolls Online and even the new MS Flight Simulator do not Window correctly when your fullscreen resolution is set to 3840x2160 and you want to run at ultrawide 3840x1600. If I DO set the desktop resolution to 3840x1600 and run the games at that res, they all work perfectly. Since so many games are skipping out on true exclusive fullscreen, it messes up me trying to run custom resolutions. EDIT: I went ahead and ordered an adapter just now for testing. Won't be here til end of next week.

  • Looks like the C9 got firmware. Hopefully the CX is incoming as I truly would love to settle on a display. Also, if I can just get the Club3D adapter working right with custom res @ 60+hz, I might sell the 3080 while it's hot and stick with the 2080 Ti.

Just note that at the time of writing the Club3D adapter does not support VRR and is not perfect but works pretty decently as long as you have the latest firmware. Long cry from requiring constant power cycling for every resolution change like when it was released. I just thought to mention it as evidence that the LG CX should support 3840x1600 at 120 Hz custom resolutions. Interested to see if the adapter performs any differently on 3080 vs 2080 Ti though.
 
Just note that at the time of writing the Club3D adapter does not support VRR and is not perfect but works pretty decently as long as you have the latest firmware. Long cry from requiring constant power cycling for every resolution change like when it was released. I just thought to mention it as evidence that the LG CX should support 3840x1600 at 120 Hz custom resolutions. Interested to see if the adapter performs any differently on 3080 vs 2080 Ti though.

Roger that -- Thanks for the info. Gaming at 3840x1600 @ 60hz is not bad at all by any stretch but if the display is capable of 120hz, I'd like to run at that. I'll be sure to post results between the 2080 Ti and 3080 testing for sure. Also, depending on when LG firmware hits for CX as well.
 
Thanks for the helpful reply!

  • I don't have the Vizio hooked up at the same time as the CX, I've just been testing them both off and on and stunned at how good the Vizio is for the price. In fact, I had it a week before the CX and it's so surprising, it made the jump to OLED less impactful as I was coming from IPS panels with horrid black levels.

  • I read about the CLub3D adapter and almost picked it up but the shipping was like a week out. So, I know that creating 3840x1600 60+hz is possible in NVCP with the adapter but not sure why it isn't working straight to the CX without the adapter. Also, the reason why I prefer custom resolution and higher refresh rate is because a bunch of games like World of Warcraft, Elder Scrolls Online and even the new MS Flight Simulator do not Window correctly when your fullscreen resolution is set to 3840x2160 and you want to run at ultrawide 3840x1600. If I DO set the desktop resolution to 3840x1600 and run the games at that res, they all work perfectly. Since so many games are skipping out on true exclusive fullscreen, it messes up me trying to run custom resolutions. EDIT: I went ahead and ordered an adapter just now for testing. Won't be here til end of next week.

  • Looks like the C9 got firmware. Hopefully the CX is incoming as I truly would love to settle on a display. Also, if I can just get the Club3D adapter working right with custom res @ 60+hz, I might sell the 3080 while it's hot and stick with the 2080 Ti.


LG OLED C9 did NOT get any firmware. I called and was told no and there is no update in the TV menu system.
 
BFI test guy is back with comments on the capacitor issues. I didn't wanna put this in the "issues" thread as I don't think users outside of this thread will be familiar him, but thought some here may be interested.

 
BFI test guy is back with comments on the capacitor issues. I didn't wanna put this in the "issues" thread as I don't think users outside of this thread will be familiar him, but thought some here may be interested.



Happy to report my Gigabyte Eagle 3080 has shown no issues or crashes running above 2ghz for extended periods of time in multiple games. Phew!
 
Hooked up my 3080 to the 48cx today and its a BIG improvement vs the 2080ti's 420.
I am using the 6's Club 3D 8k60 / 4k120 hdmi cable and things look freakin great.

Yes, that flickering black is caused by gsync malfunctioning....gotta turn that off for now.
Can't wait for new LG firmware and new Nvidia drivers.....but so far I am impressed and have not played one game yet lol.

Is that Club 3D HDMI cable better/different than any other 2.1 cable that is 48 Gbps, such as from Monoprice or Ruipro?
 
MAN...BFV as a battlefield is one of my least favorite.....but MY GAWD it looks incredible on this display matched with a 3080 @ 4k120 HDR full ultra settings....WOWOWOWOWOW

Can't wait till LG & Nvidia fix gsync and the other issues!
 
Just bought this TV and I'm just wondering if there's any recommendations that I need to do first setting it up. I don't have 3000 series card but I'll be using it as a TV for now and for ps5 when it comes out.
 
Is that Club 3D HDMI cable better/different than any other 2.1 cable that is 48 Gbps, such as from Monoprice or Ruipro?

I don't know how but it's worse, it doesn't even work for me with the club3d adapter, and i've tried 2 of them from amazon.

My belkin cable works ok at 4k120hz though.
 
Is that Club 3D HDMI cable better/different than any other 2.1 cable that is 48 Gbps, such as from Monoprice or Ruipro?

At least the one I have does not perform any different from the CableMatters "4K 120 Hz" cable I have when using the Club3D adapter.
 
Just bought this TV and I'm just wondering if there's any recommendations that I need to do first setting it up. I don't have 3000 series card but I'll be using it as a TV for now and for ps5 when it comes out.
  • Use Game mode for consoles to get the lowest input lag and note that there is a separate Game HDR mode you should select for HDR gaming.
  • Use the Expert (bright room) or Expert (dark room) modes for SDR movie/TV content.
  • Set white balance to Warm 2 as that's the closest to accurate 6500K color temp without calibration.
  • Mess with the TruMotion settings for movie/TV content so you don't have judder in panning shots but also avoid that "soap opera" motion look.
  • Make sure HDMI Ultra Deep Color is on for every input and Instant Gaming Response is on for consoles.
 
Ultimately becoming more and more upset over this purchase.

1) OLED motion is inferior to plasma and CRT without BFI. BFI only functions well enough to give you a taste of what could be on CX
2) raised dolby vision blacks
3) nonfunctioning HDR because HDMI 2.1 not working
4) can't purchase receiver yet because HDMI 2.1 not working
5) true blacks on OLED is only a thing if you like them crushed
6) banding ruining many shows and movies because HDMI 2.1 not working and no ampere cards available (halo bands not vertical bands)
7) input lag while very good in some settings can skyrocket (4k resolutions) and no idea if this will be fixed by hdmi 2.1 because HDMI 2.1 not working

At least the sound coming of the TV is reasonable and my panel uniformity is reasonable. At this point I feel dumb for not just buying a used OLED as the CX is still not fully functional with no light at the end of the tunnel.

Highly recommend waiting if you are thinking about buying.
 
Ultimately becoming more and more upset over this purchase.

1) OLED motion is inferior to plasma and CRT without BFI. BFI only functions well enough to give you a taste of what could be on CX
2) raised dolby vision blacks
3) nonfunctioning HDR because HDMI 2.1 not working
4) can't purchase receiver yet because HDMI 2.1 not working
5) true blacks on OLED is only a thing if you like them crushed
6) banding ruining many shows and movies because HDMI 2.1 not working and no ampere cards available (halo bands not vertical bands)
7) input lag while very good in some settings can skyrocket (4k resolutions) and no idea if this will be fixed by hdmi 2.1 because HDMI 2.1 not working

At least the sound coming of the TV is reasonable and my panel uniformity is reasonable. At this point I feel dumb for not just buying a used OLED as the CX is still not fully functional with no light at the end of the tunnel.

Highly recommend waiting if you are thinking about buying.

makes anxious if I made a mistake buying this TV. This will be my first OLED screen this big. Although, this TV will mainly for console gaming and movies. Hopefully I wont regret it, otherwise, my wife is gonna kill me 🤦‍♂️
 
Not sure what he is talking about for the most part though. HDR works fine with HDMI 2.0. True blacks are a reality you just need to use the display in a dark room (and possibly calibrate it, depends on your unit) because we are all used to the crappy LCD blacks where we can see all the details even in a bright room. A lot of those details we are not supposed to see in the first place (or barely).

I have no banding issues at all, other than content related ones. But those I can see on ANY display unless I apply some heavy processing to get rid of it. Which I'm not going to do because you lose a bit of details then.

Input lag with game mode + PC mode is best in class at 4k (7ms with 120hz, not sure why Rtings measured higher, maybe their laptop GPU?) so I don't know what he is talking about either.
 
Ultimately becoming more and more upset over this purchase.

1) OLED motion is inferior to plasma and CRT without BFI. BFI only functions well enough to give you a taste of what could be on CX
2) raised dolby vision blacks
3) nonfunctioning HDR because HDMI 2.1 not working
4) can't purchase receiver yet because HDMI 2.1 not working
5) true blacks on OLED is only a thing if you like them crushed
6) banding ruining many shows and movies because HDMI 2.1 not working and no ampere cards available (halo bands not vertical bands)
7) input lag while very good in some settings can skyrocket (4k resolutions) and no idea if this will be fixed by hdmi 2.1 because HDMI 2.1 not working

At least the sound coming of the TV is reasonable and my panel uniformity is reasonable. At this point I feel dumb for not just buying a used OLED as the CX is still not fully functional with no light at the end of the tunnel.

Highly recommend waiting if you are thinking about buying.
That's pretty much how everyone sees this display if one is not part of the OLED cult. Except the spiking lag, that I haven't heard before about... But I am not surprised.
 
That's pretty much how everyone sees this display if one is not part of the OLED cult. Except the spiking lag, that I haven't heard before about... But I am not surprised.
I have one. And its amazing. I’m not part of an oled cult. And every display has upsides/downsides. I’ve had a CRG9, x34 and LG38GN950 and its better than all those except for the widescreen/curve imo. So we know things can be better - but that is not available yet.
 
I have one. And its amazing. I’m not part of an oled cult. And every display has upsides/downsides. I’ve had a CRG9, x34 and LG38GN950 and its better than all those except for the widescreen/curve imo. So we know things can be better - but that is not available yet.
Interesting. Did you find it better in SDR or HDR? Because in SDR I couldn't tell the difference between the 55" c7 and Predator X38. In HDR, unless you have fald and 500+ zones with fast IPS, it is not contest.
For me currently the ideal monitor is the 37,5 LG panel with advanced fald. It doesn't exist but I have hope that maybe it will appear next year.
 
Interesting. Did you find it better in SDR or HDR? Because in SDR I couldn't tell the difference between the 55" c7 and Predator X38. In HDR, unless you have fald and 500+ zones with fast IPS, it is not contest.
For me currently the ideal monitor is the 37,5 LG panel with advanced fald. It doesn't exist but I have hope that maybe it will appear next year.
I’m a black junky and vivid colors. Those are just better on oled. And the image is smoother imo. Especially in fast paced games such as doom or cs:go. For slower single player the delta is less - but still there. But it’s probably personal.
 
I’m a black junky and vivid colors. Those are just better on oled. And the image is smoother imo. Especially in fast paced games such as doom or cs:go. For slower single player the delta is less - but still there. But it’s probably personal.
Ah. Black junky - that explains it, thank you.
 
For LG9/CX owners, what settings are you guys using to distinguish the squares on the first row of Lagom's test:

http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/black.php

By doing gradual ramp up in Adjusting Luminance values on a 22 Points IRE (similar to this method), at Gamma 2.2, Black Level High/Auto, OLED Light 50, I'm able to just barely see square 3, but practically only square 5 is readily visible.

Is anyone able to get squares 1 and 2 to be distinguishable?
 
Anyone got 3840x1600 resolution working with 120Hz? If so what settings are you using? I want to run it for some specific games but I just get no signal when clicking Test.
1601226232501.png
 
For LG9/CX owners, what settings are you guys using to distinguish the squares on the first row of Lagom's test:

http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/black.php

By doing gradual ramp up in Adjusting Luminance values on a 22 Points IRE (similar to this method), at Gamma 2.2, Black Level High/Auto, OLED Light 50, I'm able to just barely see square 3, but practically only square 5 is readily visible.

Is anyone able to get squares 1 and 2 to be distinguishable?

In a dark room, I can see even 1,2,3. Remember that they are going to be far harder to see than on a LCD though, because of the infinite contrast. Zoom in or you use your hands/arms around your eyes to block the blinding areas around it (that white square is the biggest culprit). Limitation of our eyes.

My settings:

game mode, PC mode, 4k 60hz RGB (for desktop use and films)

Warm 2, Gamma 2.2, OLED light 20, contrast 85, brightness 50, sharpness 0 (I can't see a difference between 10 and 0), colour 50

Every unit has a bit different factory calibration though.

On white saturation test I miss the last square however.
 
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