Intel I5-2500K -> AMD Ryzen 3900x

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mlcarson

Limp Gawd
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Jul 12, 2009
Messages
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Finally get to retire my I5-2500K. My I7-2600K got replaced by the Ryzen 1700. Now the 1700 replaces the 2500K and I have a 3900X on the way for my main rig. I don't replace systems frequently so I figured the best course of action would be to go for the fastest chip this time. The list price difference between the 3700x and the 3900x is $170 and adds 4 cores. I paired it with an Asus Rog Strix X570-F which sells for $299. There's no way I could see spending more for the Crosshair VIII. The good X470 motherboards with the best VRM's are selling for $200+ new so the incremental cost of under $100 could be justified to get the new X570 chipset.

I cheaped out on RAM and got the Micron Ballistix Sport LT 32GB (16x2) DDR4 3200 kit (BLS2K16G4D32AESE). Hoping it works and might be overclockable to 3466.

Graphic card is my original GTX 1080TI from 2017.
 
sounds like a good upgrade. I would imagine if you have been using a 2500k until now (or even the ryzen 1700), the 3900x will last you many years. I'm hoping to build a similar system in the coming months with a 12 or 16 core CPU, 1080ti or equivalent, and cram it all into an ITX case to be a 'portable' workstation.
 
Keljian said:
Just be aware of the Nvidia whea thing
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? Googling it brings up threads from 2011, 2015, 2018, etc, but I don't know what it is or why you are referencing it. I have used 1050ti/1060 cards in my desktops and laptops for the past 2-3 years without issue. Mined with 1070s and 1080tis without issue. If you could elaborate on what we need to be aware of I'd appreciate it.
 
mnewxcv said:
? Googling it brings up threads from 2011, 2015, 2018, etc, but I don't know what it is or why you are referencing it. I have used 1050ti/1060 cards in my desktops and laptops for the past 2-3 years without issue. Mined with 1070s and 1080tis without issue. If you could elaborate on what we need to be aware of I'd appreciate it.
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During the first three hours of testing of the AMD Ryzen 9 3900X processor, using the X570 AORUS XTREME board, I noticed the problem when PCMark 8 did not pass the first test after 40 minutes (this is a total of ten tests). I noticed WHEA error (Windows Hardware Error Architecture) in HWInfo64 (se this software for PC telemetry, highly suggested).

From there I also decided to pay more attention to HWInfo64 and also checked that the BOOST frequencies of the processor had problems, since it didn’t get to “boost” all its cores to the maximum that it should, which is 4.6 GHz. It reached 4.5 GHz to 4.575 GHz in a pair of cores and the rest of cores to 4.3-4.4 GHz… We used manufacturers chipset driver, we have used press chipsets, as more current chipset driver version, same results.



It seemed strange to me, so I first decided to write to my contact with GIGABYTE USA (Matthew Hurwitz, I thank him for all the time he has put in to find a solution) and showed him the WHEA (PCI Express) errors, as well as the rare behavior of the 3900X boost frequencies.

Midnight (Wednesday) GBT HQ gives us news and according to their tests, the new AGESA code, including NPRP BIOS (BIOS for press) replicated our results in single-core frequencies, BUT, the original BIOS (AGESA 1002, without code introduced NPRP) turbo boost was working well.

With this information, I decided to flash BIOS, the first BIOS released for the X570 AORUS MASTER board and surprise, the boost frequencies were working as they should, even beyond the processor at 4.65 GHz. The WHEA error problem in the PCI Express was still going on, so I kept pressing and trying if the problem was maybe the chipset driver.
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Also going from 2500k to 3900. Now, if only I could buy it... I'd say the CPU arena is a bit too exciting :D
 
mnewxcv said:
sounds like a good upgrade. I would imagine if you have been using a 2500k until now (or even the ryzen 1700), the 3900x will last you many years. I'm hoping to build a similar system in the coming months with a 12 or 16 core CPU, 1080ti or equivalent, and cram it all into an ITX case to be a 'portable' workstation.
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I worked with a guy that has 7940x, rtx Titan, x299 itx, 64gb sodimms crammed into a Dan case that he uses for onsite shoots.

If a vfx director wants to see things during the day, he sits in a trailer with ac cranking out basic content.
 
somebrains said:
I worked with a guy that has 7940x, rtx Titan, x299 itx, 64gb sodimms crammed into a Dan case that he uses for onsite shoots.

If a vfx director wants to see things during the day, he sits in a trailer with ac cranking out basic content.
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that's awesome. I do video editing and travel a lot, and my laptop is great, but I want the next level of performance without spending $3k on a crazy laptop. I already have the first piece of my build, my Cougar QBX case.
 
mnewxcv said:
that's awesome. I do video editing and travel a lot, and my laptop is great, but I want the next level of performance without spending $3k on a crazy laptop. I already have the first piece of my build, my Cougar QBX case.
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There’s just no laptop that will get close to an itx build if you really want to hedt focus the resources.

It's not like those crazy $$$ color correct 10-bit monitors used on shoots are incorporated to any laptop I'm aware of.

That's a serious output target to deal with.
 
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So how are people doing hardware updates like this with Windows 10? Just let Windows 10 redetect everything or are you doing clean installs? I'd expect that a Ryzen 7-1700 to a Ryzen 9-3900X upgrade should go pretty smooth but that an I5-2500K to Ryzen-1700 upgrade might be more problematic.
 
If you want quick and dirty, you can throw the install in as is and you'll likely be fine. Maybe not the 'cleanest' way to do it, but it will probably work. Win10 is quite good at these things (despite sucking for other matters).
 
mlcarson said:
Finally get to retire my I5-2500K. My I7-2600K got replaced by the Ryzen 1700. Now the 1700 replaces the 2500K and I have a 3900X on the way for my main rig. I don't replace systems frequently so I figured the best course of action would be to go for the fastest chip this time. The list price difference between the 3700x and the 3900x is $170 and adds 4 cores. I paired it with an Asus Rog Strix X570-F which sells for $299. There's no way I could see spending more for the Crosshair VIII. The good X470 motherboards with the best VRM's are selling for $200+ new so the incremental cost of under $100 could be justified to get the new X570 chipset.

I cheaped out on RAM and got the Micron Ballistix Sport LT 32GB (16x2) DDR4 3200 kit (BLS2K16G4D32AESE). Hoping it works and might be overclockable to 3466.

Graphic card is my original GTX 1080TI from 2017.
Click to expand...

You made a good call going with a less expensive mobo.
But I'd recommend this RAM set. https://www.amazon.com/G-Skill-Ripjaws-PC4-25600-3200MHz-F4-3200C14D-16GVK/dp/B01ACODP7S Made with Samsung B-die. It's cheaper than Ballistic at Amazon, and has tighter timing 14-14-14-34.
 
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mlcarson said:
So how are people doing hardware updates like this with Windows 10? Just let Windows 10 redetect everything or are you doing clean installs? I'd expect that a Ryzen 7-1700 to a Ryzen 9-3900X upgrade should go pretty smooth but that an I5-2500K to Ryzen-1700 upgrade might be more problematic.
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Not upgrading here, but I normally do clean installs when I swap Mobo/CPU.
 
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mda said:
With a Zen2 and a decent X570, you'll likely have no problems running non B-die CL16 3200s.
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Had no problems with a 1200 & 2600 the last couple months on b450 with 16gb 3200 Corsair dimms at XMP.
Things took a couple years to get worked out.

I'd do a clean install after a year just bc.
CPU upgrade, maybe not.

DL the 1903 iso from MS.
Why waste the time do ing updates bc you used an old iso if you don't have to?

I'm staying away from x570 until they work on its power consumption.
I'm not jumping on any pcie 4.0 drives bc it's too early.

I applaud sticking with the 1080ti, it should be viable for a couple more years until they figure out how to get rtx eye candy working without eating framerate.
 
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somebrains said:
Had no problems with a 1200 & 2600 the last couple months on b450 with 16gb 3200 Corsair dimms at XMP.
Things took a couple years to get worked out.

I'd do a clean install after a year just bc.
CPU upgrade, maybe not.

DL the 1903 iso from MS.
Why waste the time do ing updates bc you used an old iso if you don't have to?

I'm staying away from x570 until they work on its power consumption.
I'm not jumping on any pcie 4.0 drives bc it's too early.

I applaud sticking with the 1080ti, it should be viable for a couple more years until they figure out how to get rtx eye candy working without eating framerate.
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What power consumption? It isn't like the MB eats it for fun. It is all relevant to what is required ya?
 
^ The boards have been observed to be using an additional 20-30 watts of power over an equivalent X470, despite showing very little gain on the CPU side as well as not using any PCIE 4.0 devices yet.

If it showed 20-30 watts increased power usage while running PCIE4.0 devices then that would be explainable I guess.
 
mda said:
^ The boards have been observed to be using an additional 20-30 watts of power over an equivalent X470, despite showing very little gain on the CPU side as well as not using any PCIE 4.0 devices yet.

If it showed 20-30 watts increased power usage while running PCIE4.0 devices then that would be explainable I guess.
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30W with the same CPU?
Links please
 
Let’s see where Roman takes it, bc he didn’t find any increase using a pcie 4.0 drive over a 3.0 drive.

 
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mlcarson said:
So how are people doing hardware updates like this with Windows 10? Just let Windows 10 redetect everything or are you doing clean installs? I'd expect that a Ryzen 7-1700 to a Ryzen 9-3900X upgrade should go pretty smooth but that an I5-2500K to Ryzen-1700 upgrade might be more problematic.
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i usually just uninstall all the drivers related to what ever board i had installed, shut down install the new stuff boot up and install all the new drivers.. even that's probably unneeded but meh just makes things a little cleaner.. hasn't really been an issue since vista with migrating windows from one system to another even from intel to AMD or vice versa.

mda said:
^ The boards have been observed to be using an additional 20-30 watts of power over an equivalent X470, despite showing very little gain on the CPU side as well as not using any PCIE 4.0 devices yet.

If it showed 20-30 watts increased power usage while running PCIE4.0 devices then that would be explainable I guess.
Click to expand...

it probably depends on the board and the VRM layout(especially if it's an ASUS board) being used, because relistically the x570 chipset only pulls about 7w idle, and a little under 10w with at least 1 pcie 4.0 NVME drive + pcie 3.0 gpu + 2 hard drives (tested by derbauer). and the difference between a pcie 3.0 nvme and 4.0 was about half a watt.
 
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mda said:
https://www.thefpsreview.com/2019/07/08/amds-x570-chipset-is-definitely-more-power-hungry-than-x470/
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More data needed. That article doesn't pin down anything. Yes there is an increase but it varies quite a bit, even between various X570 boards. Prime95 apparently is being allowed to run free atm, and one would be advised to refrain from deep testing with that on X570 unless you want to risk your new toy.
There is no evidence that it is a solid 30W across the board. That would be extreme.
 
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Just a bit of a warning on Windows 10 licensing. This upgrade was enough to screw mine up -- upgrading to1903 probably didn't help matters either. When Microsoft says that there is a Windows license linked to your account -- that is apparently meaningless. I made sure that this was the case before upgrading and as expected a motherboard change was enough to deactivate the licensing. The surprise came though that when it came time to link the new machine to the original signature and click activate-- it wouldn't do it. I called Microsoft about it and their stance is that without the original Windows 7 key, there is nothing that we can do about it and you have to purchase a new license even though I can see the previous device/signature on my account. I got my licensing working again because I did find an original Windows 7 key. I'm not sure it was the same one that originally updated this machine to Windows 10 though.
 
mlcarson said:
Just a bit of a warning on Windows 10 licensing. This upgrade was enough to screw mine up -- upgrading to1903 probably didn't help matters either. When Microsoft says that there is a Windows license linked to your account -- that is apparently meaningless. I made sure that this was the case before upgrading and as expected a motherboard change was enough to deactivate the licensing. The surprise came though that when it came time to link the new machine to the original signature and click activate-- it wouldn't do it. I called Microsoft about it and their stance is that without the original Windows 7 key, there is nothing that we can do about it and you have to purchase a new license even though I can see the previous device/signature on my account. I got my licensing working again because I did find an original Windows 7 key. I'm not sure it was the same one that originally updated this machine to Windows 10 though.
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I've been through multiple hoops here, with a 7 Pro retail key that has seen 8 and 8.1 before 10, and has been motherboard and processer and hard drive swapped as well as reinstalled. I do also recommend having your key around for serious upgrades, as while Microsoft's algorithm is actually pretty good, it isn't perfect.
 
I just upgraded last night but did see some WHEA errors (no bluescreens) which are probably due to the Nvidia card/driver. Unfortunately I got hit with a much more irritating bug too. My Dell 3014 monitor has a Flash card reader built into it which I believe shows itself as a Realtek Card Reader. This device was continuously discovering and rediscovering itself so I was getting the discovered hardware sound noise every few seconds. I temporarily disabled it until I figure out what driver is required to fix it; Dell has a 6/20/2016 dated driver for Win10 which hopefully works. I ended up having to go through the Device Manager and deleting all hidden devices which were no longer found which I believe were all my old motherboard stuff. I then upgraded to Windows 10 1903 which is in effect a new OS install and it found and reactivated the Realtek device again with the same issue until I again disabled it. Combine this with the windows activation issues and some head scratching on my part why the system was just booting to Bios/UEFI and this has been a more troublesome upgrade than most so far.

The Bios thing is because the last Asus BIOS that I've been in was on my I5-2500K system before UEFI was a thing. The Asus Strix X570 BIOS settings were really NOT clear to me on how to get my SSD drives to boot. The only bootable UEFI device that it was seeing was a 32GB CF card that I had in my Dell monitor. I eventually got things set to legacy boot mode via the CSM (Compatibility Support Module) settings. The Gigabyte Bios from my older GA-AB350-Gaming 3 was damn user friendly in comparison.

I see that there's already multiple BIOS upgrades out: 0602 -> 0604 -> 0804 -> 7010 (beta). It looks like 0804 would be the latest non-beta.



Keljian said:
Just be aware of the Nvidia whea thing
Click to expand...
 
mlcarson said:
I eventually got things set to legacy boot mode via the CSM (Compatibility Support Module) settings.
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This would point to your OS drive using MBR partitioning instead of EFI- this may be able to be fixed, but it's probably easiest to do a clean install.
 
You're right. I don't have any HDD's in this system -- just SSD (2x1TB and a 512GB) and since they're less than 2TB in size there wasn't a need for GPT. Even those systems that have HDD's, I generally boot off from SSD so would still be using MBR. I guess I should change that practice and go GPT with everything but I think I'll keep secure boot disabled as long as it's an option.
IdiotInCharge said:
This would point to your OS drive using MBR partitioning instead of EFI- this may be able to be fixed, but it's probably easiest to do a clean install.
Click to expand...
 
mlcarson said:
You're right. I don't have any HDD's in this system -- just SSD (2x1TB and a 512GB) and since they're less than 2TB in size there wasn't a need for GPT. Even those systems that have HDD's, I generally boot off from SSD so would still be using MBR. I guess I should change that practice and go GPT with everything but I think I'll keep secure boot disabled as long as it's an option.
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If you're going to redo it, why not turn it on, and given the borging necessary to convert stuff over, redoing it is likely the most stable long-tern solution.
 
Just an update on the RAM -- Micron Ballistix Sport LT 32GB (16x2) DDR4 3200 kit (BLS2K16G4D32AESE. I've been using it clocked at 3600 with 16 CAS using the DOCP timings and haven't had any issues with normal use so far. I upgraded to BIOS version 0804 and grabbed the lastest Realtek Audio drivers (6.0.8702.1) which seemed to fix the few WHEA errors that I was getting. They were all tracing back to an HDAudio issue. I also installed the latest AMD Chipset Drivers (v. 1.07.07.0725). I haven't done any stress testing yet. Just trying to make sure things seem stable first.

Here's the CPU-Z info on it.
https://valid.x86.fr/7l0x62
 
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