Flush mounting mesh

HoboJoe

n00b
Joined
Jun 7, 2019
Messages
4
Hey All,

I am planning a custom case, that will be made without CNC/Laser. All cuts will be done by hand.
To add in mesh, the common method is to cut your hole and place the mesh on the inside of the panel.

This leaves a small step down between the panel and the mesh.

What are the possible methods to have the surface flush, and get that look as if those holes were all cut out?

THanks
 
You would likely have to cut the mesh to fit the exact size of the hole in the panel, mount with a metal epoxy, then sand the epoxy down. Body fill any tiny gaps, then re-sand and paint the entire thing.

Not easy.
 
I was thinking that an exact cut, and epoxy would be an option. Would it be strong enough? There isnt that much of a contact surface.
 
The proper epoxy for the material types would likely be strong enough, I mean, you're not likely to be putting much weight or force on the panel, correct?

FWIW, I've seen PL premium glue a goddamned toilet to a cement ceiling. So, that's a thing.
 
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I've not done it myself but have thought about doing this for my case. With a thinner mesh, would you be able to put the panel flat with the backside up, then the mesh on top. use the back of a screwdriver or something plastic to press the mesh into the opening. Or cut the corners and bend to fit? Once fitted, then epoxy or hot glue into place.
 
The proper epoxy for the material types would likely be strong enough, I mean, you're not likely to be putting much weight or force on the panel, correct?

FWIW, I've seen PL premium glue a goddamned toilet to a cement ceiling. So, that's a thing.
No there wont really be much weight. But because I want to make the case as small / portable as possible, I want to make sure it wont break out when taking it to a LAN.


I've not done it myself but have thought about doing this for my case. With a thinner mesh, would you be able to put the panel flat with the backside up, then the mesh on top. use the back of a screwdriver or something plastic to press the mesh into the opening. Or cut the corners and bend to fit? Once fitted, then epoxy or hot glue into place.
I get what you mean, I think it would need to be something the same size as the hole and then pressed through to do that the right /cleanest way.


Interesting find, this works for the circular fan holes.
 
If you are doing all the cuts by hand could you take the piece that you just cut out and use it as a form to bend the mesh? Something similar to what Outlaw85 said. Or you could lay the panel flat, place the mesh over the opening and then use the piece you cut out to press the mesh into the opening.
 
If you are doing all the cuts by hand could you take the piece that you just cut out and use it as a form to bend the mesh? Something similar to what Outlaw85 said. Or you could lay the panel flat, place the mesh over the opening and then use the piece you cut out to press the mesh into the opening.

This. I would sand the edges on everything, which should afford sufficient clearance for the mesh between the pieces.
 
The proper epoxy for the material types would likely be strong enough, I mean, you're not likely to be putting much weight or force on the panel, correct?

FWIW, I've seen PL premium glue a goddamned toilet to a cement ceiling. So, that's a thing.
I need pictures of this, sounds like a construction prank?
 
If you are doing all the cuts by hand could you take the piece that you just cut out and use it as a form to bend the mesh? Something similar to what Outlaw85 said. Or you could lay the panel flat, place the mesh over the opening and then use the piece you cut out to press the mesh into the opening.

This would work if hand cuts were accurate. From past experience, I cut 1-2mm away from the line, and then sand up to it. Otherwise you end up with wavy cuts (I just never get them straight). So its just a case of cut a second piece and marry them up.

I think I am going to to the epoxy route at least as a test. Test the strength of the bonds, and if it holds up well go with that in the final product. If it doesnt hold up well, go with the above option as it will give a much greater surface area for the bond.

Thread was more to see how others are doing it, I'm guessing most people dont bother trying to get it flush?
 
FWIW, I've seen PL premium glue a goddamned toilet to a cement ceiling. So, that's a thing.

Awesome !
This is the kind of [H]ard hitting info I like !!

I'm told you can also glue small cars to their parking spots permanently with PL.

:ROFLMAO:

On topic :

There's a reason people use laser/waterjet for this kinda thing.As someone who has done hand built stuff like this , I say this :
Spend the cash on a pro job.....when you are hand filing mesh/holes like that , it's a lotta hours that ain't worth it.
 
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Cut the case hole big.
Cut a ring of case thickness metal, the inside hole bigger than the desired final grill, the outside big enough to overlap the case hole.
Epoxy the ring inside the case.
= flange inside to hold screen @ exact thickness of case.
cut screen to fit in case hole, on lip.
Glue, fill, sand, ream holes that got filled with putty, paint.

Flat, looks like holes drilled in case.
 
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