HOT ! Various 1TB NVMe with coveted E12 Controller $135 aprox retail

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I'm running into all kinds of trouble trying to install Windows on this thing. During my first attempt it just errored out in the middle of install. So I tried again, deleting the partitions it created and reformatting. It made it through this time until the first reboot in which I get this:

View attachment 151586

Anyone know what gives? I updated my BIOS to the latest, redownloaded/recreated a Windows 10 bootable USB drive, switched USB ports... Same result every time. Makes it through initial install, then shows me the above screen on reboot. Is there anything I can try in command prompt? Maybe formatting in a different way than the Windows installer does?

Achi/raid?
 
I'm running into all kinds of trouble trying to install Windows on this thing. During my first attempt it just errored out in the middle of install. So I tried again, deleting the partitions it created and reformatting. It made it through this time until the first reboot in which I get this:

View attachment 151586

Anyone know what gives? I updated my BIOS to the latest, redownloaded/recreated a Windows 10 bootable USB drive, switched USB ports... Same result every time. Makes it through initial install, then shows me the above screen on reboot. Is there anything I can try in command prompt? Maybe formatting in a different way than the Windows installer does?

I had this problem recently.

You need to boot into a partition manager and redo everything on that drive. I can't explain the how or why of it but it does work.

I actually had my old Samsung 970 Pro do this.

I deleted all the partitions, replaced the MBR, you name it. After that, Windows went on no problem and no more blue screen. Stuff I probably didn't even need to do.

I think it's a Windows thing. I'm not sure and of course, I could be wrong in regards to your problem
 
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I'm running into all kinds of trouble trying to install Windows on this thing. During my first attempt it just errored out in the middle of install. So I tried again, deleting the partitions it created and reformatting. It made it through this time until the first reboot in which I get this:

View attachment 151586

Anyone know what gives? I updated my BIOS to the latest, redownloaded/recreated a Windows 10 bootable USB drive, switched USB ports... Same result every time. Makes it through initial install, then shows me the above screen on reboot. Is there anything I can try in command prompt? Maybe formatting in a different way than the Windows installer does?

Like the others, make sure in bios your not in some weird intel raid or other rapid tech, for the ssd controller.

If you want to nuke it from orbit:

  1. Type diskpart.

  2. In the new command line window that opens, to determine the USB flash drive number or drive letter, at the command prompt, type list disk, and then click ENTER. The list disk command displays all the disks on the computer. Note the drive number or drive letter of the USB flash drive.

  3. At the command prompt, type select disk <X>, where X is the drive number or drive letter of the USB flash drive, and then click ENTER.

  4. Type clean, and the click ENTER. This command deletes all data, partition tables, etc.
 
I had this problem recently.
You need to boot into a partition manager and redo everything on that drive. I can't explain the how or why of it but it does work.

Are you referring to using diskpart and the clean command on the drive? Or something else?

My next idea was to use diskpart to clean and convert GPT. Does that sound correct?

Achi/raid?

AHCI
 
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FYI for people who are migrating from a sata to a nvme, steps need to be taken so you dont waste 3 hours like me....

So good ole windows(and maybe linux) does not install the nvmee pci-e driver unless there is a drive present.
So if you just clone your ssd to the nvme, windows will fail to boot, because it doesnt have the drivers to "see" the c drive.
The solution is to first pop in your nvme and assign it a drive letter, so windows loads the driver and you can verify it can see the drive and read/write.
Then do the clone so that on first boot windows has the nvme driver and can continue loading the os.
 
So I used diskpart to clean and convert gpt, ran the Windows install, and upon the first reboot, it booted back to USB. So I unplugged the USB stick and set the NVMe as my only boot device and that seemed to work. Finally got Windows up and running!

However, whenever I reboot from Windows, I get stuck at my mobo's splash screen (the one where it says press delete to enter UEFI) with the hard drive light remaining solid for a good 20 seconds. It then gives up and goes to the next boot option (either the next drive or if no drive, straight into UEFI).

If I go into UEFI before it freezes at the splash screen, then exit, it boots up fine. A cold boot from a power off state also works perfectly fine.

Any ideas why this is happening? The only UEFI option I changed is "Launch Storage OpROM Policy". I set it from legacy to UEFI only because some article recommended that for NVMe windows installation. Not sure if that's related?

Also, there are two drives listed in my UEFI boot options:
Windows Boot Manager (PCIe SSD)
PCIe SSD

I have the Windows Boot Manager one selected. Is that correct?
 
So I used diskpart to clean and convert gpt, ran the Windows install, and upon the first reboot, it booted back to USB. So I unplugged the USB stick and set the NVMe as my only boot device and that seemed to work. Finally got Windows up and running!

However, whenever I reboot from Windows, I get stuck at my mobo's splash screen (the one where it says press delete to enter UEFI) with the hard drive light remaining solid for a good 20 seconds. It then gives up and goes to the next boot option (either the next drive or if no drive, straight into UEFI).

If I go into UEFI before it freezes at the splash screen, then exit, it boots up fine. A cold boot from a power off state also works perfectly fine.

Any ideas why this is happening? The only UEFI option I changed is "Launch Storage OpROM Policy". I set it from legacy to UEFI only because some article recommended that for NVMe windows installation. Not sure if that's related?

Also, there are two drives listed in my UEFI boot options:
Windows Boot Manager (PCIe SSD)
PCIe SSD

I have the Windows Boot Manager one selected. Is that correct?

Could make a Rescue Media using free macrium and run "fix boot problems". It will delete and remake your uefi. It could be its still looking for the old sig, and times out after 20 seconds.
 
Could make a Rescue Media using free macrium and run "fix boot problems". It will delete and remake your uefi. It could be its still looking for the old sig, and times out after 20 seconds.

No good, didn't change anything. :(

Is it possible my mobo (ASRock Phantom ITX) just isn't combatible with this drive? I mean it works. I just have to do a full shutdown in order to boot which is really stupid.
 
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No good, didn't change anything. :(

Is it possible my mobo (ASRock Phantom ITX) just isn't combatible with this drive? I mean it works. I just have to do a full shutdown in order to boot which is really stupid.

I posted my "fix". I had to have the old drive, and the non cloned nvme in the system, while the old drive was in windows, or it would bsod after cloning.
 

Yeah, no dice. The "bootrec /fixboot" command doesn't work, it says access denied. Tried to go through a guide to fix that, but that didn't work either.

Just to clarify, I'm not getting a blue screen anymore. The only problem is that a *reboot* from the windows start menu causes me to hang at POST for about 20 seconds or so before giving up and booting from the next disk in the chain. Doing a *shutdown* from windows and then powering on via the power button works fine. Is there a way to get a log to see what's happening during the POST hang? I disabled my mobo's splash screen but nothing is printed out during POST.
 
Yeah, no dice. The "bootrec /fixboot" command doesn't work, it says access denied. Tried to go through a guide to fix that, but that didn't work either.

Just to clarify, I'm not getting a blue screen anymore. The only problem is that a *reboot* from the windows start menu causes me to hang at POST for about 20 seconds or so before giving up and booting from the next disk in the chain. Doing a *shutdown* from windows and then powering on via the power button works fine. Is there a way to get a log to see what's happening during the POST hang? I disabled my mobo's splash screen but nothing is printed out during POST.

Swap the ssd for another. Or your I installation media is fuqered. Possibly?
 
Swap the ssd for another. Or your I installation media is fuqered. Possibly?

Somehow I doubt there's anything wrong with the drive. It boots fine from an off state. CrystalDiskInfo shows 100% health. I bet it's more of a motherboard incompatibility thing. Maybe a future UEFI update will fix it? Who knows. I guess I'm stuck rebooting my computer via start -> shutdown for now.
 
As far as nothing being printed to the screen upon boot, try double checking your UEFI settings. It's been a while since I've messed with it, but there's typically an option to enable/disable the splash screen (as you've done) and also a separate one to turn that system info on or off. It may be called quick boot or something like that. I just checked the manual for my Asus board and there is an option for Boot Logo Display and another one for Option ROM Messages which I believe are the POST messages that you're talking about.
 
I had a bad one of these drives out of the box. Only did half the transfer speeds advertised. Returned it got another and it works as advertised. For those having problems I suggest returning for another.
 
I had a bad one of these drives out of the box. Only did half the transfer speeds advertised. Returned it got another and it works as advertised. For those having problems I suggest returning for another.

There is one that is almost exactly like this one, one is professional and one is premium. The good one is x4 pcie and 3200mbs, the bad one is x2 and 1600mbs.
 
There is one that is almost exactly like this one, one is professional and one is premium. The good one is x4 pcie and 3200mbs, the bad one is x2 and 1600mbs.

Yes the proper product says professional on package and has 3200/1900 written on package or something like that. It actually does 3x00/3x00 speeds.
 
Kansas City has ample stock of both the 512GB and 1TB Inland Premium Drives.

IMG_20190329_142420.jpg
 
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so the premium 512, and the professional 1tb, have the x4 lanes. But if you get the premium 1tb, you only get x2 lanes....

marketing genius
Product packaging is correct and the website displays the correct specs.
The website heading is wrong, no genius whatsoever.
nothing to see here
 
Product packaging is correct and the website displays the correct specs.
The website heading is wrong, no genius whatsoever.
nothing to see here


Look at the store pic, they have the $135 1tb labeled as "professional". Its not. They have something jacked up at the store. You either get a $135 premium 3200mbs, or a $125 professional 1600mbs.
 
Microcenter's web store is partially wrong. at least the last time I looked. And that 1tb "professional" label is most definitely wrong.

In fact, the true professional model is to the left of those maybe 2 stacks away and has been marked down to $124.

The premium models say "premium" on the packaging.

The web store was partially wrong as it used to say professional but listed the model number as premium. They might have changed that by now. Probably not. I'm too lazy to go look.
 
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The Inland PROFESSIONAL 1TB drive is the older one. It uses the E8 controller and is PCI-E x2. The Inland PREMIUM 1TB drive is the newer one with the E12 controller and is PCI-E x4. Microcenter has some confusion on their website with the labeling. The website shows it as Inland Professional but a look at the picture of the item shows it is Inland Premium. The professional drive is also available for $124.99. It should be avoided over the much improved premium version.
 
Maybe they should have named the Premium model "Professional Plus" lol. I can certainly see how this would be confusing to buyers who aren't [H]. Maybe that's the point...
 
Yeah, if you don't get a blister pack with a black backing, Micro Center packed the wrong drive. Also, for those who can get it at a B&M store, RetailMeNot still has a valid $5 off $30 coupon good until 4/30 to absorb some of the sales tax.

I've already got a BPX Pro that I flashed with 12.1 on a friend's computer, but I might get this and eschew all but a 2TB spinner for slow storage.
 
Got my Sabrent 1TB drive in the mail today and i'm loving it. Blows the Inland out the water and better results then the Silicon Power drive i tried out. Hitting almost 3500 read and 33200 writes, the biggest difference is my drive idles at 18-19c and only hits 44c max while benchmarking. The Inland would hit 70s, absolutely no throttling now. At $124.49 can't beat the price.

Sabrent 3.4 - 3.2.PNG
 
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Got my Sabrent 1TB drive in the mail today and i'm loving it. Blows the Inland out the water and better results then the Silicon Power drive i tried out. Hitting almost 3500 read and 33200 writes, the biggest difference is my drive idles at 18-19c and only hits 44c max while benchmarking. The Inland would hit 70s, absolutely no throttling now. At $124.49 can't beat the price.

View attachment 152484


Those are the same numbers everyone else is getting with the Inland.

Awesome drive.
 
I picked up 4 of these over the weekend for 4 identical builds I am working on. Very happy with them!
 
Those are the same numbers everyone else is getting with the Inland.

Awesome drive.

Not everyone, either you guys got lucky with good speeds or myself and a few others got unlucky with bad drives. Biggest thing for me though is my drive is running insanely cooler under use and while benchmarking and not throttling like the Inland.
 
The MCs :) near me all restocked the x4 1TB this week. Picked up a bunch, these things are great for dev storage projects. Going to be beating the shit out of 'em, so if they are no good will know soon enough, but MC is good about warranty n returns.
 
Got my Sabrent 1TB drive in the mail today and i'm loving it. Blows the Inland out the water and better results then the Silicon Power drive i tried out. Hitting almost 3500 read and 33200 writes, the biggest difference is my drive idles at 18-19c and only hits 44c max while benchmarking. The Inland would hit 70s, absolutely no throttling now. At $124.49 can't beat the price.

View attachment 152484

Nice! Guess this makes the nVME heat sink I bought pointless
 
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