New Build Gut Check

N

netbrad

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jan 26, 2005
Messages
151
Help me check myself before I wreck myself for a gaming PC.

I play older games on Steam like Sins of Solar Empire and War Thunder (barely) but would like to start World of Warships, Mechwarrior 5 and whatever new Star Wars games may come out. My son wants to get into Fortnite but I don't have a machine that can play it (cries in Athlon X2). I created a thread last year and was thinking Intel but that was before the 2700X came out. I also got my bonus money so I actually have it to spend. I'd rather not wait until summer as the prices will likely be higher and my current board is exhibiting some end of life issues likes ports not working.

I'd like to spend less than $2k.

List:

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/qrwvyX

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bddxFT/amd-ryzen-7-2700x-37ghz-8-core-processor-yd270xbgafbox
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/jX...aming-atx-am4-motherboard-strix-x470-f-gaming
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/mX...-2-x-8gb-ddr4-3600-memory-f4-3600c19d-16gtzrb
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/M9rmP6/samsung-860-evo-500gb-m2-2280-solid-state-drive-mz-n6e500bw
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/dQ66Mp/samsung-860-evo-2tb-25-solid-state-drive-mz-76e2t0bam
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/P6...-gb-xc-ultra-gaming-video-card-06g-p4-1267-kr
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/G34NnQ/be-quiet-dark-base-900-black-atx-full-tower-case-bg011
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/jW...fied-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-ssr-850fx

I'd like to get a new monitor but can't justify it right now. I currently have a Samsung
SyncMaster SB240_S24B240BL (Digital) being run by a Geforce GTX 750Ti.

I'm going to use the default cooler that comes with the 2700x. I don't plan on overclocking outside of whatever boost the chip does via software. I picked the 1660 because 1080 prices are insane and I'm not really up on all the video cards/refresh rates/orbital calculations. I will re-use my current optical drive. I don't know if I should get a sound card (I currently have a Sound-Blaster Xi-Fi). I'd like a case that doesn't make it sound like I have a jet turbine next to my desk. I don't care about a glass window or LED lighting.
 
CPU, Board no problem.

RAM you mayyy not be able to run it at 3600, so maybe consider a 3200 kit?

I'd consider changing your M.2 to a 970 Evo NVME.

I'd also consider dropping the case down from that monster to something more conservative (Fractal Meshify C, NZXT H500i etc). I know you don't care about the glass/led, irrelevant, just trying to find a decent case at a better price point/smaller footprint. You can also absolutely get away with a 650W model PSU (less really), and be completely fine.
 
I woudn't cut down on the memory when using Ryzen- that's really the biggest boost you're going to get over something bone stock, but it isn't easy to do.

The case and the power supply as mentioned, and the M.2 SSD can all be cut- and I'd put that back into a faster GPU. RTX2060 / Vega / Radeon VII / RTX2070 depending on what you can save and what you can stretch.
 
IdiotInCharge said:
I woudn't cut down on the memory when using Ryzen- that's really the biggest boost you're going to get over something bone stock, but it isn't easy to do.

The case and the power supply as mentioned, and the M.2 SSD can all be cut- and I'd put that back into a faster GPU. RTX2060 / Vega / Radeon VII / RTX2070 depending on what you can save and what you can stretch.
Click to expand...

Does Ryzen run that fast though? Re RAM. The 'golden spot' seems to be 3200C14, though I cheaped out myself and grabbed 3200C16, because prices in Australia are stupid and the C14 was over 100 dollars more. XD.
 
ReaperX22 said:
Does Ryzen run that fast though? Re RAM. The 'golden spot' seems to be 3200C14, though I cheaped out myself and grabbed 3200C16, because prices in Australia are stupid and the C14 was over 100 dollars more. XD.
Click to expand...

3200C14 is still expensive when priced in currencies other than Penal-Colony Pesos, but 3600C16 isn't too bad. Biggest point is that pushing the speed up and then the latency down as you can helps; at least, as you did with 3200C16, keep it reasonable.

A faster GPU will do more, though, so long as the CPU is able to keep the maximum frametimes down to keep the toughest parts smooth.
 
Looks decent enough. I agree with Reaper to go for the 970 SSD instead.
As for the memory, you're only really saving about $10 with the same type of memory in 3200.
Now, if you were considering the lower-latency 3200...well, you wouldn't actually be saving money.

The case is kinda overkill. I agree that you might wanna take a look at the Meshify. I'm a HUGE non-fan of LED cases and window cases (mainly because I USE them, not DISPLAY them).
The PSU is kinda overkill (though for the price, it's a decent deal). If you do downsize, consider this one. (Your current choice's little brother).

A 2060 will get you some extra frames. And if you're comping on the PSU and the case, an extra $40-60 is quite doable.


Here's a modified example with all the cost-cutting suggested.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/bpsQWD

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 2700X 3.7 GHz 8-Core Processor ($299.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus - ROG STRIX X470-F Gaming ATX AM4 Motherboard ($188.90 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung - 970 Evo 500 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($149.99 @ Samsung)
Storage: Samsung - 860 Evo 2 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($327.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Zotac - GeForce RTX 2060 6 GB GAMING AMP Video Card ($369.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design - Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($98.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1635.82
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-03-08 01:56 EST-0500
 
Chas said:
Looks decent enough. I agree with Reaper to go for the 970 SSD instead.
Click to expand...

I'm just going to throw this out there- why?

The higher transfer rates of NVMe over SATA don't affect the user experience. I don't see an issue where there's no cost delta, but NVMe isn't worth paying more unless there's a defined need for the performance. I'll take more drive capacity first.

[I've run both, for the OS, major apps, games, there's no difference- if you really want to upgrade that you'll need to shell out for an Optane drive]
 
Two words.

Personal preference.

For a cost delta of $100 or so, yeah, I'll look at it.
For a cost delta of roughly $50, I'm less inclined.
And at the end, I've eliminated any possibility of throughput bottlenecks within a reasonable price point.
Moving to Optane basically quadruples cost at any given drive size.
 
Thanks everyone.

I thought I had picked an NVME drive so I don't mind spending a little more for some oomph whether it is noticeable or not. I guess the other concern would be memory latency. What latency should I avoid? My ancient system has 4-4-4-12 but I can't translate those numbers into modern offerings. I do like the look of the Meshify case but I think the front is going to be a dust magnet and noisy. I did see that Fractal had some "quiet" offerings and I will look into those. My current case is an Antec P180 but I do not want to re-use it.

Also, what about dropping the NVME drive to 250GB for an OS only drive and use the other SSD for storage/applications/games? Or does everyone load up the NVME drive to get the performance?
 
Last edited:
ReaperX22 said:
CPU, Board no problem.

RAM you mayyy not be able to run it at 3600, so maybe consider a 3200 kit?

I'd consider changing your M.2 to a 970 Evo NVME.

I'd also consider dropping the case down from that monster to something more conservative (Fractal Meshify C, NZXT H500i etc). I know you don't care about the glass/led, irrelevant, just trying to find a decent case at a better price point/smaller footprint. You can also absolutely get away with a 650W model PSU (less really), and be completely fine.
Click to expand...

ReaperX22 said:
Does Ryzen run that fast though? Re RAM. The 'golden spot' seems to be 3200C14, though I cheaped out myself and grabbed 3200C16, because prices in Australia are stupid and the C14 was over 100 dollars more. XD.
Click to expand...

netbrad said:
Thanks everyone.

I thought I had picked an NVME drive so I don't mind spending a little more for some oomph whether it is noticeable or not. I guess the other concern would be memory latency. What latency should I avoid? My ancient system has 4-4-4-12 but I can't translate those numbers into modern offerings. I do like the look of the Meshify case but I think the front is going to be a dust magnet and noisy. I did see that Fractal had some "quiet" offerings and I will look into those. My current case is an Antec P180 but I do not want to re-use it.

Also, what about dropping the NVME drive to 250GB for an OS only drive and use the other SSD for storage/applications/games? Or does everyone load up the NVME drive to get the performance?
Click to expand...

I have the same board and 2700x in one my builds. I also use a 250gb NVMe drive for the OS, an older SATA SSD for games and a pair of older HDDs for general storage. I think the difference between loading from a SATA SSD and a HDD is much more noticeable than the difference between loading from a SATA SSD and an NVMe SSD. Load times will be minimal as long as the games get install on any SSD.

3600mhz on the memory might be possible but here's what is needed:
  • patience
  • learn to use the Ryzen DRAM calculator utility
  • high-end memory kit with decent advertised latencies, also having Samsung B die memory chips and in a single rank configuration (Gskill trident 8gbx2 *should* all match this spec)
  • patience
Honestly, you're good at 3200 CL14, I would look for memory at that speed and latency. Personally, I could not get stable at greater than 3333+ speeds on either my X470 or X399 systems (albeit with 3466 dual rank memory). It is worth mentioning part of this is "silicon lottery" as well.

I ultimately stole the good memory out of my Strix board to scavenge for another build and stuck in two sticks of older, much cheaper, 2400mhz crucial memory. I did slight OC on that cheap memory to 2666 and it runs fine, slightly lower benchmarks and synthetics but nothing noticeable day-to-day. 2933mhz was probably possible on that Crucial (sport?) memory but I didn't fight with it long enough to get it stable at that speed.

Long story short, I wouldn't get so caught up in the memory speed, buy a solid kit of 3200 or even 2933 and you'll be fine. You'll have to play with timings either way to get a stable 3400mhz so you might as well go with 3200 and just try to OC for the 3400 if you want that. 3600mhz on Ryzen is a can of worms. Unless you're trying to achieve some big numbers in a benchmark, don't bother and save yourself the grief.
 
Montu said:
You could go with something like this and save money you could put into the GPU and have a slightly better gaming experience.

Also, your RAM choice is more likely to run at rated speed.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813144219

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117826&Description=i7 8700&cm_re=i7_8700-_-19-117-826-_-Product
Click to expand...

I appreciate that but I am going AMD and the CPU came today. I ended up getting this case for $119 which will save a little money:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HQKF7F2/

Yeah it has a window but for the price I couldn't beat it. I also think I'm going to drop to a 1TB SSD for storage since I have a 500GB Crucial I can repurpose for extra storage if needed. I haven't decided if I want to get a 250GB NVME, stick with a 500GB version in the build plan or drop the SSD and go full 1TB NVME. Prices are all over the place. I found this memory listed in the motherboard's manual and I'm going to watch for better pricing:

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232485
 
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I will second saving money on a cheaper case. I have a few Fractal cases one of them being the Define R5 which got replaced (or so it seems) by the R6 recently. It's a really quite case and since it looks very similar to the R6 I suspect the R6 will behave similarly.

You can also save money going with a less wattage PSU. ~600W is more than enough for your setup.
 
netbrad said:
Also, what about dropping the NVME drive to 250GB for an OS only drive and use the other SSD for storage/applications/games? Or does everyone load up the NVME drive to get the performance?
Click to expand...

The problem is, too many programs out there auto-drop loads in C:\ regardless of where you put the rest of the program.
Over time, this adds up and you wind up with a full drive.

Personally, I'd stick with a 500-512GB drive.
 
So I've spent the day reading, ordering, reading, calculating and learning how to post my list properly and here's what my final list looks like:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 2700X 3.7 GHz 8-Core Processor ($299.99 @ Amazon) (Already here)
Motherboard: Asus - ROG STRIX X470-F Gaming ATX AM4 Motherboard ($188.90 @ OutletPC)(Be here Monday)
Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($204.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung - 970 Evo Plus 500 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($127.99 @ Amazon)(Already here, same day shipping is amazing!)
Storage: Samsung - 860 Evo 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($152.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1660 Ti 6 GB XC ULTRA GAMING Video Card ($309.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design - Design Define R6 USB-C - TG ATX Mid Tower Case ($119.99 @ Newegg)(Be here Monday)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1494.83
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-03-09 23:03 EST-0500

I know the 1660 isn't bleeding edge and someone mentioned getting an RTX 2070 but it doesn't seem that RTX is ready for primetime nor will any of the games I play use raytracing. Maybe I will need it eventually (Mechwarrior 5?) but from the videos some folks have posted the 1660 seems fine for my needs and doesn't have insane pricing. Now I need to figure out what monitor to get which should take me to around $1800 or so based on some of the prices I've seen.
 
I second the choice of the Fractal R6 but would go with the silent Edition. Solid side panels with sound deadening material through out, capable of a massive number of drives. Also agree with the 970 EVO as your boot disc. For storage a 2TB WD Gold is only $113.
I would stay with the 850 PSU and as you said you could spend upwards to 2K, splurge on a Radeon VII or an RTX 2070!
 
jrweis said:
I second the choice of the Fractal R6 but would go with the silent Edition. Solid side panels with sound deadening material through out, capable of a massive number of drives. Also agree with the 970 EVO as your boot disc. For storage a 2TB WD Gold is only $113.
I would stay with the 850 PSU and as you said you could spend upwards to 2K, splurge on a Radeon VII or an RTX 2070!
Click to expand...

I thought about the Silent edition for the case but I couldn't find it cheap. I think this version will be silent enough. I may go to a 750w power supply but I'll have to check prices. I did think about the 2070 but it seemed like I would be spending a lot for a feature I would not be using. Besides, I'm coming from a 750TI so anything is an improvement. If prices stop being insane I can always upgrade.
 
An RTX 2080 Ti will run perfectly fine on any quality 500w+ PSU. I run a 2600 + GTX 1070 on a 450W SFX. I barely hit 300w. You'll be fine with a cheaper/lower PSU. Far as I'm concerned anything over 650w is for multi-card purposes, which in itself isn't all that viable anymore!
 
The 600/650W PSU I thought was usually to try to hit 50% load for efficiency. The 550W version of that Seasonic PSU is around 10$ cheaper I think.
 
I think the build uses good parts. Let us know how it turns out when done. That is half the fun. getting all the boxes after shopping for everything.
 
TheFlayedMan said:
The 600/650W PSU I thought was usually to try to hit 50% load for efficiency. The 550W version of that Seasonic PSU is around 10$ cheaper I think.
Click to expand...

Amazon was out of stock on the 650 but I found it at Superbiiz with a $10 rebate so it was only $79.99 with free shipping. Opened the box today and there's a $25 Steam gift card offer if I leave a review. Still waiting on the video card and memory from Newegg.
 
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