31.5" 2560x1440 165 Hz VA G-Sync - LG 32GK850G

What camera settings did you use? I think I noticed maybe a tiny bit more BLB in the bottom left corner on my 2nd monitor. The first one had dead pixels right in the middle of the screen so I swapped it out.
 
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For the darker photo with less exaggeration, I used auto on my phone but adjusted the light/brightness manually to lower it to what my eye seems to see.
 
But for NVIDIA users, I'd hold off until the new driver releases before pulling the trigger on any *sync monitor.

Freesync monitors aren't going to improve in VRR effectiveness, and Nvidia is only doing it over DP, not HDMI.
 
Limited refresh rate on some monitors is caused either by the EDID not having the definition of the desired refresh rate in no sync mode or your cable is bad and even if you can select the higher refresh rate it won't hold or it will skip, usually it won't even switch to it. Of course the case of having the definition but scaler being too slow to handle it can also happen but then it would do that even in adaptive sync mode.

I have no had any issues running 1440p 144Hz on (GTX 1060 6GB): AG322QCX, XF270HUA, C27HG70.
165Hz 32GK850G
75Hz Q3279VWFD8

There is someone who had 850F and 850G, they kept the 850F, you can dig it out on OCN, default sharpness on 850F seemed blurry same as 850G and I never got a photo of how the sharpness is after adjusting it in OSD on 850F.

My gallery: https://imgur.com/a/bDFVmjz
The unit was reasonably flawless for and LCD when it comes to BLB. And many are reported by users as such but not all.

Rayz unit looks quite bad. This is an LCD that has a reasonable chance of being nearly "flawless" when it comes to BLB and even it's VA glow is lower than Samsung's VA. Sadly, duds of all kinds still exist and there is some lottery as always with monitors.
 
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Got a replacement. Worse clouding in all the corners, but the center ones (in the same spot) isn't as bad.
 
My gallery: https://imgur.com/a/bDFVmjz
The unit was reasonably flawless for and LCD when it comes to BLB. And many are reported by users as such but not all.

Rayz unit looks quite bad. This is an LCD that has a reasonable chance of being nearly "flawless" when it comes to BLB and even it's VA glow is lower than Samsung's VA. Sadly, duds of all kinds still exist and there is some lottery as always with monitors.

https://imgur.com/a/GyG9u4M

Camera exaggerates on the brighter lit clouds image, but the general areas are shown. The darker screen image is more what it looks like in actuality, with the center clouds a bit more visible.

The center clouds are in the same spots but they are significantly less noticeable. However the corners, especially the top right, are pretty bad. I think the top right corner is as intense, if not more intense, than the centered one from my previous photos. The corners from the first model were fine and the discoloration was just due to VA angles. But this is legitimate clouding on the right corners for the most part.

Not sure what to do or which to keep. This is my 4th from Amazon, and for this specific replacement request they seemed to be cautious and said they wanted to investigate before sending me another one due to repeat returns. The first 2 had loose back plastic and I probably should have just dealt with it but it seemed like shipping damage to me (Amazon wouldn't provide any shipping box or cushioning). The 2nd also came in what seemed to be an opened package that was retaped (poorly) and sealed. I hadn't checked their cloud/BLB issues at the time, and then the 3rd was the original photos and 4th is this one. I should have kept the first one and probably had better luck. Dumb of me.

Even the LG logo was printed pretty crooked on this model. Not really a big deal but it's shocking how much went wrong with this one :/

Oh and scratches galore:

https://imgur.com/a/72nT1Nh
 
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Any way to disable DDC/CI on this monitor? I'm willing to modify a cable if I have to.
 
I guess you can't say you had a proper purchase unless you have exchanged at least 3 times. And at the end most are getting returned unit at least once. You guys are doing it for fun.
I have not bought a monitor before checking it personally. Probably paid + 3 to 5% more sometimes.
And in my country I bought this for 700 eur (VAT is 20%, 30 eur discount for not perfect box), the F model is about 730 eur. Go figure.
 
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I guess you can't say you had a proper purchase unless you have exchanged at least 3 times. And at the end most are getting returned unit at least once. You guys are doing it for fun.
I have not bought a monitor before checking it personally. Probably paid + 3 to 5% more sometimes.
It is not fun that I keep getting defects at all. Scratched screens, shipping damage and issues, and excessive clouding and bleed on a model where most tests report minimal backlight intrustion. They even misprinted the friggin logo on this monitor. That is a minor nitpick but it just adds to the janky experience I've had.
 
Had my GB 2080T away for repair and was using Intel in-bed graphics. One way to expose ghosting on this monitor is snooker/pool game - red balls on green table , massive (virtual pool 4, WSC2009). G-sync makes it virtually unnoticeable (165 Hz/faster). You really have to look for it and it is still hardly visible, for me. Sadly WSC2009 appears to not work with G-sync (or because it has 100 Hz max in graphics settings) and still has massive ghosting effect.
PS. Apparently I was quick in my conclusion. Still pretty noticeable although not as much. These specific games really show the ghosting well on this monitor. My Eizo (IPS) has very minimal, visibly lower.
 
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Any way to disable DDC/CI on this monitor? I'm willing to modify a cable if I have to.
Most monitors have that option in OSD, not sure why you would need to change the setting to ON or OFF. I don't use these apps that allow monitor control via software, if you do then turn it ON and usually it defaults to ON.

I guess you can't say you had a proper purchase unless you have exchanged at least 3 times. And at the end most are getting returned unit at least once. You guys are doing it for fun.
I have not bought a monitor before checking it personally. Probably paid + 3 to 5% more sometimes.
And in my country I bought this for 700 eur (VAT is 20%, 30 eur discount for not perfect box), the F model is about 730 eur. Go figure.
Not doing it for fun, when all the units have stuck pixels, dust, crazy BLB, visible scratches, ... what is one to do other than to send it back to seller when we have that option and I would NOT buy any monitor without having that option since the quality control on monitors is non existent and seller do not pressure manufacturers to improve the quality. They simply sell it all and then deal with massive returns of defects.
Would gladly look at a monitor in person like in the old days when buying it locally but the large local shops do not offer this, you order online to get the 2 weeks return no questions asked and then pick it up in person and always when asked if they could power it up they say they cannot (they used to do that 10 years ago) and literally tell you to take it home and if you do not like it to return it, they tell you that so that's what everyone is doing. Sellers also love to reseal returned products with their own sticker and try sell it as new instead of as open box, of course most returned monitors are returned due to a defect, personally I always tell the seller monitor is defective and how so that it is not resold but is RMAed with manufacturer/distributor by the seller. But I think most people simply return it and do not tell the seller why, the law says you do not have to say why you are returning which indeed is better for customers but sellers are too lazy to test a monitor before reselling it again so these defects circle around resold.

It is not fun that I keep getting defects at all. Scratched screens, shipping damage and issues, and excessive clouding and bleed on a model where most tests report minimal backlight intrustion. They even misprinted the friggin logo on this monitor. That is a minor nitpick but it just adds to the janky experience I've had.
Yeah I've had factory sealed C27HG70s that had rattling internal board, literally the board inside was loose, some had hard scratches on plastic, AG322QCX had the packaging soft bag pattern imprinted on it's front surface and good luck getting that out (was visible under certain lighting conditions), 32GK850G broken internal conection IMHO of the Gsync board causing half of screen to artifact with green+red vertical lines, ... the rest are common pixel defects, BLB, excessive glow, ...

Amazon does get investigative when you return a few monitors in a row, they really do, but I've had no problem writing them back the real deal, why the monitors I purchased were returned, that I have stated on all of them reason for return being defects, inadequate quality, etc. None of which were my fault and they should deal with the product manufacturer to improve quality.
Sadly you only really get to try 1-2 monitors before their automatic system picks you up. It does start to trigger when you return about 5 units in a row and didn't purchase and keep anything in between.

You have to remember that it is not your fault that the product you received is faulty, defective, etc. it's manufacturer's fault and keep sending them back and explaining that to the seller. I also take photos and send them photos of the defects when possible, that way it can be easier to persuade the sellers to see your point.

I think you can get this flat AUO 31.5" VA in a decent quality, they do exist, unlike M270DAN2.x and Samsung curved VA panels. Problem is that even if you get a good one there are other things that can go wrong... scratches, broken internals (such as mine had), ...

Buying monitors is a nightmare with this non existent quality control.
Got this one Q3279VWFD8 and it's perfect 1st try, kept it, had enough of the 144Hz panels lotteries. One should not be required to return 5+ monitors when trying to get a defect free one.

The quality control on monitors these days is as follows: does it turn on? Package it and sell it. What ever automated QC they have using cameras etc. if using it at all is so bad it does not catch obvious defects.
Some of the defects are pure mishandling by workers, when it comes to scratches on panel, housing, ...
 
I think most people don't care, sadly, about things they don't always notice, like BLB and clouding in dark rooms and scenes, or even just scrapes on the screen itself. But this is at least a $650 purchase...That is a lot to ask for for a product that doesn't feel premium when the LG logo itself isn't even printed properly.
 
Most monitors have that option in OSD, not sure why you would need to change the setting to ON or OFF. I don't use these apps that allow monitor control via software, if you do then turn it ON and usually it defaults to ON.

This one does not. I have a very specific use case where I do not want the monitor to disconnect from the system because it breaks an app that I want running overnight/while afk. Disconnect = number crunching stop = unhappy me.
 
Well, after some really long thinking, I ended up not waiting for the drivers and got the 32GK850G.

Kinda disappointed at how little difference the increased contrast made, but otherwise I am not too disappointed at the monitor, the colours came closer to my BL3201PT after calibration than my PG278Q did, so no real complaints.
 
Anyone figure out a way to manually put the monitor to sleep, or turn it off in a way that doesn't cause windows to disconnect it and shift all your icons and windows to another display? I'm guessing this is a DP issue as it doesn't happen when powering off DVI or HDMI displays.

Very late to answer but have you tried to turn off Deep Sleep from monitor settings?
 
not exactly what you ate looking for but I highly recommend checking out displayfusion pro if you haven't before. It remembers app window sizes and positions incl on which monitor and you can also make hotkeys for quick window movements to your favorite sizes and locations. When I activate my 43" 4k VA tcl in my array the windows are all over. A few hotkey prrsses they are flying to where I want them.
 
I own this monitor for a while now and am quite happy with it, despite its few cons. Can someone recommend good calibration settings to improve image quality? Thank you.
 
I've posted several permutations of tweaked settings vs my other two monitors and my oled tablet by eye.. not using calibration hardware and software but using calibration images on all of my monitors at the same time as well as 4k colorful art photos to get to where I'd like it. My biggest complaint was getting the whites to actually look white and not off-colored at lower black depths, especially in relation to my other monitors.

I recommend at the minimum turning up the nvidia driver applet's desktop digital color vibrance a few percent on the desktop and editing your RGB values in the monitor's OSD..

..and I highly recommend using nvidia freestyle which pops up a sidebar of simple settings sliders on the fly. It's like an EZ mode of reshade built into the nvidia suite, written with help of the author of reshade.

In games , freestyle has a sharpness filter you can bump up slightly (which windows desktop/apps notably can't utilize) .. as well as a color vibrance filter and brightness and contrast filters. I mainly use those but there are several others. Freestyle remembers the settings on a per game basis so it allows you to have different settings for different games. For example the brightness/contrast sliders on a really dark game, or more/less sharpness and color saturation for different game genres and environments. Since those filters are only active in games, it keeps your tweaked-for-desktop usage base settings untouched when you are back to the desktop after exiting a game too.
 
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Has anyone experienced display disconnects from time to time on DP connection? Windows 10 onboard graphics i7-6700K, GB Z170 motherboard? Windows sounds like losing and finding a new device but no notification.
 
Has anyone experienced display disconnects from time to time on DP connection? Windows 10 onboard graphics i7-6700K, GB Z170 motherboard? Windows sounds like losing and finding a new device but no notification.

Try lowering refresh rate. Your integrated graphics probably can't handle higher refresh rates at 2k. Also if monitor has overclock enabled, disable it.
 
So wtf is this on my new purchase of this monitor from B&H?
It looks like a bruised spot, it's not on the surface and not a mark I can clean. It's below the physical screen.
Trust em it looks way worse than this. It's the first thing I noticed and I see it casually just glancing at the monitor, rather than it being a dead pixel I search for.
edit: there are two of these types of clusters/spots.

3M0bxXl.png

http:// https://i.imgur.com/7JSZJCP.png


http://i.imgur.com/oQD2jvO.png

This monitor also has the worst parts of the previous 2's BLB combined. It makes the same exact pattern, I am starting to think this is very much a manufacturing defect. Without hesitation I can tell you there will be prominent clouding slightly above and to the left of the screen, slightly below and to the right (these 2 are massive btw), and a huge chunk on the top right corner. The shape and patterns are exactly the same.
 
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So wtf is this on my new purchase of this monitor from B&H?
It looks like a bruised spot, it's not on the surface and not a mark I can clean. It's below the physical screen.
Trust em it looks way worse than this. It's the first thing I noticed and I see it casually just glancing at the monitor, rather than it being a dead pixel I search for.
edit: there are two of these types of clusters/spots.

https://i.imgur.com/3M0bxXl.png

https://i.imgur.com/7JSZJCP.png

https://i.imgur.com/oQD2jvO.png

This monitor also has the worst parts of the previous 2's BLB combined. It makes the same exact pattern, I am starting to think this is very much a manufacturing defect. Without hesitation I can tell you there will be prominent clouding slightly above and to the left of the screen, slightly below and to the right (these 2 are massive btw), and a huge chunk on the top right corner. The shape and patterns are exactly the same.

private images :p
 
Is the red embedded one visible now? It's the pic with the most obvious example. I have at least 3 clusters like this that are visible from my sitting distance, already requested a replacement. Huge disappointment in addition to realizing the clouding issue that is just inherent in this model it seems.

Ah and another one with what is either a dead/stuck pixel or dust under the screen. I hate buying new equipment :/
 
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Update: found at least 4 pixels with dust or something making them look black/dead. Can't see anyone getting a good panel if the issues are this consistent.
 
Just a quick follow up, I've had the LG 32GK850G for over a month now and I'm super happy with it! :)
I mounted it on my desk using the AmazonBasics Premium Single Monitor Stand and it's positioned perfectly for me.

I've been nothing but impressed with the image and performance and feeling totally satisfied I made the best choice for my gaming needs given 1440, 31.5", G-Sync, etc...

I did have to get a second monitor though, the first one had a dead pixel right in the middle! Luckily the replacement was image defect free.

I used the TFTCentral ICC profile and their settings but I upped the brightness a bit more for my tastes.
 
How does 1080p content look on this monitor? How good or bad is the upscaling? Some older games or indie 2d games don't support higher than 1080p resolution.
 
How does 1080p content look on this monitor? How good or bad is the upscaling? Some older games or indie 2d games don't support higher than 1080p resolution.
G-sync scaled 1080p always looks blurry and bad. But since it's 31.5", you can basically use it as a 24" 1080p monitor in 1:1 scaling for those games.
 
It sounds like the key to buying one of these monitors is to get it from an outlet that provides hassle free returns, odds are 50-50 it'll have a defect or you won't like the light bleed/color vibrance/pixel size.
 
It sounds like the key to buying one of these monitors is to get it from an outlet that provides hassle free returns, odds are 50-50 it'll have a defect or you won't like the light bleed/color vibrance/pixel size.

To me it sounds like the same few people keep getting defected ones. Got a defect free monitor the first try.
 
Very late to answer but have you tried to turn off Deep Sleep from monitor settings?

Ok, when I tried this a month ago it didn't appear to make a difference, but during the last week or so I noticed my windows weren't jumping between my screens any more when I turn the panel back on, everything stays where I left it now (exactly what I wanted).

Thinking back, the only thing I changed was this "Deep Sleep" setting to off, and then a few weeks ago the monitor asked to "restart" when I was playing with the overclocked 165Hz setting, which seems to have done the trick.

So for future reference, if you're tired of all your windows jumping to your other monitors when you turn your DP monitor off for the night, try turning off Deep Sleep AND ALSO do a full monitor restart.
 
I have to disagree. My son is running an Asus PB278Q which is 1440p and of course higher DPI than my HP Omen 32", but the Omen is preferred by everyone that has seen both in action, so much so my son is asking if my can trade me for my 32" Benq which is my secondary monitor and is 1440p as well. Now a 30-32" at 1080p.........
+ 1 to this
I also game on an HP 32" Omen (1440P w/ 75Hz freesync)
This monitor has great colors for the price and the large size is a plus.
No looking like "ass" noticed here
 
I just got this monitor (freesync Version) to replace my 32 inch HP Omen. Gsync works great on it with my 2070, coming from 75hz to 144hz is like night and day. Awesome monitor, I love it!
 
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