2080ti 2080 Ownership Club

TahoeDust said:
It came with new pads installed on the block.
Click to expand...

Thank you for letting us know this. I am doing a 2080Ti SLI build and just ordered 2 hydro copper waterblocks and didnt see anything in the online manual about it having new thermal pads. Matter of fact it just says to reuse the old ones. So I ended up getting 1mm thermal pad material on amazon just in case. However, I am glad to see that it does in fact come with new thermal pads and that they are just preattached to the water block it self. Makes sense.
 
Hello Everyone,

Im far from being new to this forum, but I am newly registered (lost my old login) I have been building computers for over 20 years. My first being the first pentium 60hz and I am currently upgrading my newest system to accommodate 2080Ti SLI. I look forward to posting up and sharing advice here in the 2080Ti owners subforum. This upgrade will also be my first venture into a completely custom liquid cooled setup for both CPU and 2 GPUs. My boy solhokuten is helping with that and I will be ordering all the EK parts individually once i get my tax return
 
Last edited:
NestedRAID said:
Hello Everyone,

Im far from being new to this forum, but I am newly registered (lost my old login) I have been building computers for over 20 years. My first being the first pentium 60hz and I am currently upgrading my newest system to accommodate 2080Ti SLI. I look forward to posting up and sharing advice here in the 2080Ti owners subforum. This upgrade will also be my first venture into a completely custom liquid cooled setup for both CPU and 2 GPUs. My boy solhokuten is helping with that and I will be ordering all the EK parts individually once i get my tax return
Click to expand...
Welcome back, looking forward to jour posts, My first build was a 386 25mhz sx, but i guess that just makes me old...
 
Dayaks said:
I had 3x 1080ti hybrids die from EVGA after a month. I think they just suck balls.

I went full water block with my 2080ti... really not much more in the scheme of things.

The kicker is with EVGA is that they wanted me to pay shipping cross country for three cards with a known issue. Fuck them. I liked Legendary Gamers’ thread where after four RMAs they would refund with a 15% restocking fee for his 2080ti.
Click to expand...
I've used 2 hybrid kits from EVGA so far and never had an issue with them.

I heard EVGA should have more stock of the hybrid kits Tuesday or Wednesday next week.
 
TahoeDust said:
I got the EVGA Hydro Copper block for my FTW3 Friday. It is a very nice piece and I am pretty happy with the results. The temps shown are after 30+ minutes of Heaven.
Click to expand...

I got 2 hydro copper waterblocks coming in on wednesday. I just ordered my second 2080ti this morning and im pretty pumped to get everything put together. Will have to wait on my tax return for all the ekwb parts though.
 
Just got the evga gtx 2080ti ftw and boy is that card huge. Does anyone know if you can create a custom fan profile and save it to the card instead of relying on the software? I've run in to issues with my previous 1080ti and the precision software and already with the new version where it just randomly closes it self and then the fans dont spin up.

All I did so far was set the power target to 124% and it sits at about 1950 clock
 
luke51087 said:
Just got the evga gtx 2080ti ftw and boy is that card huge. Does anyone know if you can create a custom fan profile and save it to the card instead of relying on the software? I've run in to issues with my previous 1080ti and the precision software and already with the new version where it just randomly closes it self and then the fans dont spin up.

All I did so far was set the power target to 124% and it sits at about 1950 clock
Click to expand...

I dont think you can save it to the card because due to safety (and warranty) reasons the card has hard coded safe zone values in its memory. Some programs are set only to minimize to the system tray when you hit the minimize button others minimize when you "close" the application like blizzards launcher etc. Precision window must be minimized to drop down to the system tray. Maybe you are inadvertently closing the programs window instead of minimizing? shrug. Maybe hard code precision to always boot with windows using run "shell:startup" or if you are worried about heat then you can set something like gpu-z to give an alarm when thermal threshold is hit? I think NZXT's "cam app" does this as well.

Let me know if you find out anything about this.
 
Usually i keep it minimized so its not that I am closing out the application. The program just silently closes, I am not sure if its interfering with other software I do have the cam app running for the kraken and the hue+ controller. I had the same thing happen before and just doing a quick google it looks like its been happening for a long time with that software.
 
luke51087 said:
Usually i keep it minimized so its not that I am closing out the application. The program just silently closes, I am not sure if its interfering with other software I do have the cam app running for the kraken and the hue+ controller. I had the same thing happen before and just doing a quick google it looks like its been happening for a long time with that software.
Click to expand...

Are you using the EVGA Precision XOC or the newer X1 software? If the former try out the new software and see if the same issue persists.
 
so with the 1080ti a year ago i was using the XOC, on the new 2080ti i am using the X1 since the XOC does not work with RTX correctly
 
luke51087 said:
so with the 1080ti a year ago i was using the XOC, on the new 2080ti i am using the X1 since the XOC does not work with RTX correctly
Click to expand...

That sounds like a pain. May have to just play the waiting game since X1 is still technically in beta :( Make sure you voice your opinion about it on the forum so they can get those fixes into their backlog!
 
yeah I am going to test some more, i just dont want to set a custom fan curve and have it close out and all of a sudden the fans dont spin at all which happened on my 1080ti. All of a sudden i was lagging in Pubg frame wise and i opened it up and the GPU was at 90c
 
Finally joined the club right before christmas!

Pics in my Build Log

Got her up to 2070mhz and 8000mhz on the memory. (TimeSpy) I guess it's not a bad score. I don't have much of a point of reference. It's one hell of an upgrade from my 970FTW though!
 
Last edited:
So I am wondering if BFV DLSS will look like shit OR be something I can’t run on a 21:9
 
2085/7800 stable on my first 2080ti. Second will be in here Monday and NVLink on tuesday. Will benchmark SLI air cooled results and again when i get my ek water cooled parts early feb.
 

Attachments

  • 2019-01-12 (1).png
    2019-01-12 (1).png
    1.6 MB · Views: 0
Last edited:
I only got 86xx in Port Royal with my 2700x/2080ti. I noticed I bumped off my shunt mod while installing my Soundblaster Z. Whoops. I still have the 380W bios on it though.

I noticed almost all the high scores are with high end Intels. 86xx is still respectable, card around 2080Mhz so that all looked good.
 
11,919 avg score with first 2080ti. Time Spy Demo (Locked DX11, Locked 2560x1440 resolution).

Pretty happy really eager to see what I can get when I get my second card and NVLink up and running on tuesday. Also have faster ram coming in wednesday. I need to start getting my CPU OCd but i might just wait until i have my liquid cooling system installed for that.



Edit:

Ended up getting 3D Mark license here's my Port Royal Result first run

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/32334906?

im sure with the cpu OC and faster memory im getting I can get it within the highest group (8499-9600). Will run again next week
 

Attachments

  • 2019bench.JPG
    2019bench.JPG
    186 KB · Views: 0
Last edited:
NestedRAID said:
11,919 avg score with first 2080ti. Time Spy Demo (Locked DX11, Locked 2560x1440 resolution).

Pretty happy really eager to see what I can get when I get my second card and NVLink up and running on tuesday. Also have faster ram coming in wednesday. I need to start getting my CPU OCd but i might just wait until i have my liquid cooling system installed for that.



Edit:

Ended up getting 3D Mark license here's my Port Royal Result first run

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/32334906?

im sure with the cpu OC and faster memory im getting I can get it within the highest group (8499-9600). Will run again next week
Click to expand...

While your CPU scores blow mine away (and rightly so as I've only got a 4790K vs your 8700K), I'm thinking your card may be throttling a bit. Once waterblocked, you should be getting better graphics scores.

https://www.3dmark.com/pr/14968
 

Attachments

  • Timespy.png
    Timespy.png
    529.9 KB · Views: 0
Supercharged_Z06 said:
While your CPU scores blow mine away (and rightly so as I've only got a 4790K vs your 8700K), I'm thinking your card may be throttling a bit. Once waterblocked, you should be getting better graphics scores.

https://www.3dmark.com/pr/14968
Click to expand...

Hopefully! If not I am content. I was thinking i would only get 2005ish and ended up getting 2085mhz. I see you pushed a bit farther into the 2130 range.
 
NestedRAID said:
Hopefully! If not I am content. I was thinking i would only get 2005ish and ended up getting 2085mhz. I see you pushed a bit farther into the 2130 range.
Click to expand...

Ya, was just playing around a bit to see where I could go with it. My normal / everyday OC on the card is GPU 2100 and VRAM 7800 with no added juice. Max GPU temp under load is 34C. Gotta love watercooling! :D

OC.png

My_PC.jpg
^ Pic right before the Titan Xp left the party

And with the new card (backplate still incoming):
2080Ti.jpg
 
Last edited:
You guys are making me very excited to see what my 2080ti SLI build will do once i get the water cooling setup. I cant wait!

Also Supercharged have you thought about using ribbed fittings to replace the screw braces? I know they're expensive but they look nice :)


Also what coolant are you using? I put the EK Blood Red Cryo liquid on my wishlist.


Also what are you guys doing for bleed off/drainage in your liquid setups. This ill be my first custom liquid loop and I have like 99% of the parts on my wishlist but im unsure how to setup the drain. Common sense so far tells me to put it at the bottom of the loop with a open close valve or QD.
 
Last edited:
NestedRAID said:
You guys are making me very excited to see what my 2080ti SLI build will do once i get the water cooling setup. I cant wait!

Also Supercharged have you thought about using ribbed fittings to replace the screw braces? I know they're expensive but they look nice :)
Click to expand...

You guys should see my rig. I use brass barb fittings, hoses, and clamps from home depot (except for on the actual blocks). My resevoir is a $7 12 gallon tote in my basement with a 9x140mm radiator and I actually heat exchange (via 2x 7”x12” plates) with the pool in the summer. It’s very functional but it’s very hideous.

The wife has no idea our rig is water cooled lol. God help me if something fails, we’ll have 12 gallons of water up stairs.
 
NestedRAID said:
You guys are making me very excited to see what my 2080ti SLI build will do once i get the water cooling setup. I cant wait!

Also Supercharged have you thought about using ribbed fittings to replace the screw braces? I know they're expensive but they look nice :)


Also what coolant are you using? I put the EK Blood Red Cryo liquid on my wishlist.


Also what are you guys doing for bleed off/drainage in your liquid setups. This ill be my first custom liquid loop and I have like 99% of the parts on my wishlist but im unsure how to setup the drain. Common sense so far tells me to put it at the bottom of the loop with a open close valve or QD.
Click to expand...

Ribbed fittings? What, for her pleasure? :)

Are you talking about compression fittings vs barbs/hose clamps per chance? If so, then nope, I'm old school and like barbs/hose clamps all the way. Best flow performance - very little loss in that the max/smooth inner diameter tube walls are maintained.

Also no bleed tube for me either - just use a tub and pop off one of the tubes from the pump if I need to drain. Simply refill via the reservoir, and power the pump via a bench power supply that I can control on/off as needed and spend some time rotating the case around to work the air out. Takes a bit of time, but I only need to do it once every 2-3 years when I break into the loop for an upgrade.

And as to coolant, I advise against using any coloring/dye or coolants that contain them. In the end, they all just end up breaking down and gumming/coating/discoloring your loop components. Only distilled water and a kill coil for me. If you really want color, then just use LED lighting - much less mess!
 
Last edited:
Alright so im comparing another run ( a little lower score ) of TimeSpy Default (2560x1440 etc) with another guys with very similar specs here

https://www.3dmark.com/compare/spy/4494965/spy/5789536#

and I cant for the life of me figure why he is pulling 18.5-22.8% higher in the GPU. If you look at the clock speeds. For some reason mine is showing up as 1/4 of the frequency (known issue) so multiplying mine by 4 and you get 7800 which is true my mem clock is 7800 and his was only 7650mhz. My temps are only 61C. His core clock speed is also lower at 2050. So what is happening?

Lastly, looking at his CPU his is OCd way higher which I will be doing an OC on my proc in feb when i get the custom liquid setup going etc.




Supercharged_Z06 said:
Ribbed fittings? What, for her pleasure? :)

Are you talking about compression fittings vs barbs/hose clamps per chance? If so, then nope, I'm old school and like barbs/hose clamps all the way. Best flow performance - very little loss in that the max/smooth inner diameter tube walls are maintained. Also no bleed tube for me either - just use a tub and pop off one of the tubes from the pump if I need to drain. Simply refill via the reservoir and spend some time rotating the case around to work the air out. Takes a bit of time, but I only need to do it once every 2-3 years when I break into the loop for an upgrade. And as to coolant, I advise against using any coloring/dye. In the end, they all just end up gumming/coating/discoloring things. Only distilled water and a kill coil for me. If you want really want color, use LED lighting - less mess!
Click to expand...

The compression fittings on ek are a compression fitting with an inner barb so im not sure its a vs thing but I understand. Hey if it works it works. Is your kill coil silver and would that mess up a copper based custom liquid loop (water block and fittings on wish list all copper)? Is that better then using something like PT nuke? sorry im new to this.
 
Last edited:
Gotcha, you meant something like EK's barbed fittings with screw-on compression fittings. Ya, they may look cleaner/prettier, but I still just like plain barb fittings with hose clamps best. Less risk of splitting a tube, better barb/tube overlap, easier to tighten (IMHO), and much easier to visually inspect as to a good seal and for leaks. Quick disconnect fittings are also nice, but unless you are messing with a loop often, they are expensive and can be prone to leaks if an o-ring degrades or gets pinched/nicked.

Yes, kill coils are silver, but they are fine in an all copper or copper/nickel loop. I definitely prefer a kill coil over PT Nuke or other additives, but that's just me. I played with dyes once. Never again. Looks good for about 4-6 months, then the dye starts to break down and begins to make deposits everywhere gumming things up. Dyes also tend to make a mess when draining/filling. I really just prefer distilled water in my loop.
 
Dayaks said:
I only got 86xx in Port Royal with my 2700x/2080ti. I noticed I bumped off my shunt mod while installing my Soundblaster Z. Whoops. I still have the 380W bios on it though.

I noticed almost all the high scores are with high end Intels. 86xx is still respectable, card around 2080Mhz so that all looked good.
Click to expand...

3DMark is more sensitive to CPU performance than most games for some reason. I get much higher scores on an 8700K (HT disabled) compared to an 8600K for some reason, even though in actual games the difference is basically negligible. I think CPU cache size/speed is the big thing with 3DMark benchmarks.
 
Supercharged_Z06 said:
Gotcha, you meant something like EK's barbed fittings with screw-on compression fittings. Ya, they may look cleaner/prettier, but I still just like plain barb fittings with hose clamps best. Less risk of splitting a tube, better barb/tube overlap, easier to tighten (IMHO), and much easier to visually inspect as to a good seal and for leaks. Quick disconnect fittings are also nice, but unless you are messing with a loop often, they are expensive and can be prone to leaks if an o-ring degrades or gets pinched/nicked.

Yes, kill coils are silver, but they are fine in an all copper or copper/nickel loop. I definitely prefer a kill coil over PT Nuke or other additives, but that's just me. I played with dyes once. Never again. Looks good for about 4-6 months, then the dye starts to break down and begins to make deposits everywhere gumming things up. Dyes also tend to make a mess when draining/filling. I really just prefer distilled water in my loop.
Click to expand...

Thanks a ton for the advice. I was also thinking about going regular distilled and i think ill test both kill coil and PT nuke separately and see which one is best for my build.

pippenainteasy said:
3DMark is more sensitive to CPU performance than most games for some reason. I get much higher scores on an 8700K (HT disabled) compared to an 8600K for some reason, even though in actual games the difference is basically negligible. I think CPU cache size/speed is the big thing with 3DMark benchmarks.
Click to expand...

I would have to agree I was wondering why my 3D mark score was low vs someone with a lower clocked gpu. so i did a soft OC of my 8700K to 5GHZ and gained another 10-15 fps. score jumped 2,300 points. This worries me abit because im getting another 2080ti and it was already getting bottlenecked by stock turbo boost speeds. Maybe when i get my custom liquid setup going ill try to get a stable 5.2-5.3 ghz oc.



Comparison between my two runs

https://www.3dmark.com/compare/spy/5790558/spy/5790819

edit damnit my second run i accidently dropped my gpu core clock 20 mhz. re running...

https://www.3dmark.com/compare/spy/5790558/spy/5790819/spy/5790922

Made it in to the next bracket by 17 <3 <3 <3 <3 <3 <3
 
Last edited:
Dayaks said:
I had 3x 1080ti hybrids die from EVGA after a month. I think they just suck balls.

I went full water block with my 2080ti... really not much more in the scheme of things.

The kicker is with EVGA is that they wanted me to pay shipping cross country for three cards with a known issue. Fuck them. I liked Legendary Gamers’ thread where after four RMAs they would refund with a 15% restocking fee for his 2080ti.
Click to expand...

The problem is ... I'm stupid and I kept the damn card... They wanted me to pay shipping on top of the damn 15% loss. Something inside me just broke and I absolutely said fuck no! I agree with you, I'm hating EVGA at this point. I paid shipping for one cross ship, on a known issue... I was an idiot, I missed the fact that they sent the label on the replacement... However, their wording in their return policy leaves a shit load to be desired. I didn't know until it showed up (even after contacting support).

I'm fucking exhausted with their damn RMA department... The one I have now, mostly works and good enough at the moment. I will happily become the bane of their RMA department when this card goes tits up... I expect it, but I'm just gonna shut up and game on it until it does.

How do I water block this bitch? It's not a FE, so will a standard block work? (I couldn't find shit on EVGA's site about it)
 
Legendary Gamer said:
The problem is ... I'm stupid and I kept the damn card... They wanted me to pay shipping on top of the damn 15% loss. Something inside me just broke and I absolutely said fuck no! I agree with you, I'm hating EVGA at this point. I paid shipping for one cross ship, on a known issue... I was an idiot, I missed the fact that they sent the label on the replacement... However, their wording in their return policy leaves a shit load to be desired. I didn't know until it showed up (even after contacting support).

I'm fucking exhausted with their damn RMA department... The one I have now, mostly works and good enough at the moment. I will happily become the bane of their RMA department when this card goes tits up... I expect it, but I'm just gonna shut up and game on it until it does.

How do I water block this bitch? It's not a FE, so will a standard block work? (I couldn't find shit on EVGA's site about it)
Click to expand...

It’s sometimes easier to find it on the water block manufacturer’s site. They generally have a list.
 
Ordered a 2080ti FE on the 9th of January and installed yesterday. Unfortunatley, it's a dud and I must RMA, crashes with a black screen. Temps were in the 55c range at 100% utilization with EKWB block. Looks like the GPU failure epidemic is still in full swing. I'll report back when i receive a replacement

QDs seem like a must when it comes to putting these things underwater. Never know when you'll need to send it back lol. I really need to clean up my cables, but ill wait until I get my RMA.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20190112_125625.jpg
    IMG_20190112_125625.jpg
    393.1 KB · Views: 0
Supercharged_Z06 said:
Ya, was just playing around a bit to see where I could go with it. My normal / everyday OC on the card is GPU 2100 and VRAM 7800 with no added juice. Max GPU temp under load is 34C. Gotta love watercooling! :D

View attachment 134625

View attachment 134632
^ Pic right before the Titan Xp left the party

And with the new card (backplate still incoming):
View attachment 134638
Click to expand...

I noticed the EKWB and RTX logos are not LED lit on yours either. They appear to be illuminated in some of the pics and videos on the web. Any ideas?
 
Solhokuten said:
I noticed the EKWB and RTX logos are not LED lit on yours either. They appear to be illuminated in some of the pics and videos on the web. Any ideas?
Click to expand...

Ya, it's an option. Bought my card off of Vega who opted for the none RGB version it seems. Probably would have purchased the same as the pretty lights on a waterblock only add an extra 0.00001 fps last time I checked. :D
 
Supercharged_Z06 said:
Ya, it's an option. Bought my card off of Vega who opted for the none RGB version it seems. Probably would have purchased the same as the pretty lights on a waterblock only add an extra 0.00001 fps last time I checked. :D
Click to expand...
I actually have the RGB edition. From your pics it appeared you did as well. Guess I was mistaken.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top