Milwaukee water cooling.

stonewalker

stonewalker

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May 26, 2007
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765
I'm looking for someone that can help water cool my rtx 2080ti fe. The card runs too hot and loud for my liking. I'd buy the parts. I'd just need someone to install it seeing as I have absolutely no experience with water cooling, and I don't want to experiment with a $1200 gpu. I'd compensate for time. Thx.
 
It's honestly not too tough. I'll happily walk you through component selection and give instructions, though I'm not in your area to help first hand. If you're savvy enough to build a PC, you have the requisite technical ability to install a watercooling loop.
 
Yeah but just the thought of ruining a $1200 gpu. :( Yeah, I'm just looking to water cool the gpu. How much do you think it would cost to water cool the gpu?
 
stonewalker said:
Yeah but just the thought of ruining a $1200 gpu. :( Yeah, I'm just looking to water cool the gpu. How much do you think it would cost to water cool the gpu?
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About $150 for the waterblock, give or take a little depending on manufacturer.

About $100 for a decent pump/res combo at minimum, though that can go way north depending on your tastes and where you're able to mount it.

I'd say about $100 for radiator. Could be less if you do bare minimum, could be more if you buy enough radiator to cool your CPU as well. Once you get the bug, your loop will expand: it's practically a law of nature.

We'll say $75 for fittings, tubing, and coolant.

$425 is my total, but those are quick guesstimates. You could spend a LOT less and end up with a functioning loop, for certain, but I personally don't think it's worth the risk to buy off-brand parts.

One of the most important steps is leak testing, and if you do that properly, you won't be putting any of your components at risk. Watercooling is as safe as you are patient.
 
Thank you for helping. That seems pretty expensive. I'll keep you posted on what I'll do. Thx again!
 
Hey. I'm in your area. I'll start by stating I'm not an expert but have water cooled before. Might even be able to help with some parts depending on build plan. The gpu block is going to be a bit difficult to find used but I would recommend the FS/T section here. It's where I got a ton of stuff for less than what VanGoghComplex stated. Those prices are going to be for new though.


Here's my build for reference:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/116745431@N02/albums/72157642380930875
 
If anyone can give me any tips on if this loop's layout is ok it would be appreciated. First time water cooling and this took about a day to do. I had to go buy a new case because it wouldn't fit in my meshify c case. At the moment I'm leak testing and bleeding the loop. Not sure for how long I should do it.
 

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It looks like it will function, but a couple things stand out to me.

It looks like the tube coming down off your GPU terminal is impacting the top edge of your reservoir. It's hard to tell from the pic, but it kinda looks like the tube is cocked sideways to clear the res. You should add an angled fitting or relocate your reservoir if that's the case - you do not want angular force put on your fittings like that. It can encourage leaks. If you change nothing else, get that bit taken care of.

The location of that res makes me itch a little too. You gotta get in there at an awkward angle under the GPU to fill it, and as it's sitting almost directly on top of the PSU, a spill could be a bad thing indeed. With all the room in that case, I'd heavily recommend moving the res/pump somewhere else. Can't tell what kind of pump you have from the pic, but it should be pretty easy to find a bracket to mount it to one of the 120mm fan spots on your radiator.

Last, I don't see a drain valve anywhere in there. Getting the fluid out of that machine is gonna be a pain.
 
It's the ek d5 140 pump. Yeah I didn't exactly know how to install one. I'm going to order a mount for the 120mm fan. The tube going to the gpu isnt touching the reservoir but the tube is a little cocked. I'll have to reposition the reservoir. What about the inlet and outlet ports. Does it matter about those?
 
Since your pump and reservoir are one unit, it doesn't matter much which way you route your in and out.

For a drain, you'll want to buy a T fitting and a valve. Ideally it'll be located at the lowest point in your loop.
 
Hey thx for the help. I'm going to order a t fitting, a valve, and the the 120mm mount. I just loaded up the pc and I'm running heaven right now. Temps are not going over 41c. But my case fans seem to be running at full spread. Is there any way to lower them?
 
stonewalker said:
Hey thx for the help. I'm going to order a t fitting, a valve, and the the 120mm mount. I just loaded up the pc and I'm running heaven right now. Temps are not going over 41c. But my case fans seem to be running at full spread. Is there any way to lower them?
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There are lots of ways! First thing: what are your fans plugged into?
 
I have the 3 radiator fans connected to a pwm 3 way fan splitter. And for the t fitting, it looks like there's 3 ports on it. Do I need a plug for one of those ports?
 
This is the fan splitter. PWM Fan Splitter Adapter Cable Sleeved Braided Y Splitter Computer PC 4 Pin Fan Extension Power Cable 1 to 3 Converter 10 inches (2 Pack) TeamProfitcom https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F8LV1BY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_B915BbW30GMV1

And these are the items that I'll order.
XSPC G1/4" T Fitting, Black Chrome https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CSTLCVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ta25BbZ2XGPHH
XSPC G1/4" Ball Valve, Black Chrome https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H4EIS4O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Wa25BbG09SVTP
EKWB EK-UNI Pump Bracket (120mm Fan) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015ONJYFO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kb25BbGNJPDG8
 
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If your fan splitter is plugged into a motherboard header, then you can see if you're able to control that header either in the BIOS or via software.

For that T fitting, you'll also need two more tubing fittings, a stop plug, and a M-M adapter fitting. You're gonna install that T on a tube at the lowest point in your loop.
 
Give you please post links to those items? Sorry I'm just completely oblivious to a lot of this stuff. Thx.
 
EKWB EK-AF G1/4" Rotary Y-Splitter Fitting, 2X Female to Male Ports, Nickel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014DU3IP6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i825BbV7DVGDX
XSPC G1/4" Plug V2, Black Chrome, 4-pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H0KWWS0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_R825BbMTE8QJ7
EKWB EK-ACF Compression Fitting for Soft Tubing, 10/13mm (3/8" ID, 1/2" OD), Nickel, 4-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077GY6CBN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_D925Bb367CAB4
XSPC G1/4" Ball Valve, Black Chrome https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H4EIS4O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3925BbGW69NVR

How about these pieces? I'm trying to visualize how to set it up. Is this what you are visualizing?
 
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IMO, I would move the pump/res. Is it mounted where it is in the picture? If not, maybe slide it more towards the rear of the case. Otherwise, I'd suggest closer to the rad but would require replumbing from gpu to pump. I would put the drain right off the bottom of the rad. And speaking of that, is there already plugs there? If it's like mine, there are multiple ports. you may not even have to cut the tubing to install, just the valve and couple fittings. The pump will have a determined in/out. Mine is the left front port is out. While it won't necessarily matter in your loop, it is good to know which one is which.

Can you get a few more pictures?
 
Last night I moved the reservoir to the back of the case. It seems to took a little more pressure off the left gpu tube. The radiator has only two ports- top and bottom. I ordered the fittings for the drain last night like how the guy has it in the video above your post.
 

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I only have the reservoir velcro taped to the case. Seems to hold well now. So how hard would it be to add the drain to the bottom of the loop, by the bottom of the radiator?
 

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the easiest way would be splice into the tube that runs from the res outlet port down into the psu shroud. splice the tube going into your rad inlet and set up your splitter and drain there. that way your as close to the bottom of your loop as possible. you can have it drain out of the case from pretty much anywhere down there. you have the space to run the tubing with your ballvalve attached to any spot that allows for it.
 
I don't know if it's the picture angle but I would still be concerned about that left gpu connection. It looks like it's coming into the connector at a 45. With the loop, I personally wouldn't want all the fittings pulling on compression fittings. To me, not worth the risk. If you are able to secure the drain to the mid-panel, you may be able to do it without draining the loop by pinching the tubing closed on either end. I would still move the pump if that tube is actually coming into the GPU on a 45 though.

This is what I would do.
Between Rad and T (PURPLE)
https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Male-Fitting-Black-Chrome/dp/B00V174E1W

T (your link above) (LIGHT BLUE)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CSTLCVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ta25BbZ2XGPHH?tag=hardfocom-20

Tube fitting, which you don't need to buy. You are just moving where it threads into. (your link above)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077GY6CBN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_D925Bb367CAB4?tag=hardfocom-20

Ball valve off bottom of T (your link above) (DARK BLUE)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H4EIS4O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3925BbGW69NVR?tag=hardfocom-20

Plug for insurance on the ball valve (RED)
https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Plug-Black-Chrome-4-pack/dp/B01H0KWWS0

Fitting you already had in the radiator. (GREY)

Links aren't necessarily what to buy or if you even have to buy.
upload_2018-11-11_14-41-46.png
 
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im not certain but i think he opted for the ek rad bracket so he could mount the res off of the rad? if so that will allow for the gpu tubing to be tightened/straightened up. forgot to mention ive got that same ballvalve and t fitting! they are really solid parts.
argh i didnt pay attention to the y valve rather than the t fitting :( it will still work but the xspc t fitting would have been a much cleaner install. sry Stone.
my drain is almost identical to what i was suggesting for yours Stone. ive got a rad in the lower compartment of my thermaltake x71. i used an xspc black chrome t fitting to run my xspc black chrome ballvalve out of the center port toward the side of my case. then i just attach a piece of tubing to it open the ball valve and it literally takes moments for the loop to drain.
 
Good on you man.
You started out asking for an install and now look at you.

(y)

I love seeing this shit.
 
Make sure you post updates. Do you know your plan of attack with the parts ordered? For the pump bracket hititnquitit, I thought that would only secure the pump/res to a location, not relocate res from pump. If they are not kept as one, it would definitely open up some options, but I think with the mid panel in there, it'll work, just need to find a good spot.

Here's what I was thinking. This of course is assuming that bracket doesn't split the res/pump.


The blue line would have less stress on both fittings.
The red line, you don't have a lot of options unless you changed the plumbing completely. (Picture two)
The dark green line in the bottom would be to rest the Y on the bottom of the case.
The light green line in the bottom would be for mounting the Y to the radiator.
The brown square is maybe where you could secure the Y to the mid panel for support. Might be able to use less tubing too.

Picture 1
upload_2018-11-11_21-7-43.png


Picture 2
upload_2018-11-11_21-19-21.png
 
It looks like I might need two male to male fittings.
Outlaw85 said:
I don't know if it's the picture angle but I would still be concerned about that left gpu connection. It looks like it's coming into the connector at a 45. With the loop, I personally wouldn't want all the fittings pulling on compression fittings. To me, not worth the risk. If you are able to secure the drain to the mid-panel, you may be able to do it without draining the loop by pinching the tubing closed on either end. I would still move the pump if that tube is actually coming into the GPU on a 45 though.

This is what I would do.
Between Rad and T (PURPLE)
https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Male-Fitting-Black-Chrome/dp/B00V174E1W

T (your link above) (LIGHT BLUE)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CSTLCVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ta25BbZ2XGPHH?tag=hardfocom-20

Tube fitting, which you don't need to buy. You are just moving where it threads into. (your link above)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077GY6CBN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_D925Bb367CAB4?tag=hardfocom-20

Ball valve off bottom of T (your link above) (DARK BLUE)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H4EIS4O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3925BbGW69NVR?tag=hardfocom-20

Plug for insurance on the ball valve (RED)
https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Plug-Black-Chrome-4-pack/dp/B01H0KWWS0

Fitting you already had in the radiator. (GREY)

Links aren't necessarily what to buy or if you even have to buy.
View attachment 119267
Click to expand...
It looks like I might need two male to male fittings, the first link, to connect the t fitting and ballvalve, ,because the value and t fitting and both female to female. Am I seeing that correct?
 
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you should only need to connect three normal fittings to the t , then a short run to your ball valve then a single fitting to the ballvalve, then cap off the other end. i used some old 1/2x3/4in barb fittings i had lying around for the t and ball valve. they are cheap and with a worm drive clamp they will never come loose. argh, i tried to take a pic but my crappy phone wont work right. ill post a pic if i can get it to work.
 
Might be with your current setup. Otherwise, remove the psu, tip on 45 toward open side over bucket, remove hose from lower rad and let it rip. If you wanted a little control, plug the rad with finger and get what you can out of the hose first. Funnel with hose to bucket/water jug might work.

Filling I have to set mine on the front panel.
Shake/tip around like a pain shaker (not as violent), power, repeat
Draining, I have to stand on front panel, connect fitting with tub, tip back on to back panel-ish, remove plug in pump..
Fun times.
 
stonewalker said:
would this be a good way to drain the water so I can add the drain port?
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Yeah, you're not gonna have much choice.

Honestly, since you're all soft tubing and you're relocating the reservoir anyway, I would just unbolt the res with the tubes still attached and carefully pull the res outside your case. Then, with the res held over your catch can, pop the top or just cut a tube if you've got some extra.
 
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