NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

so first boot it didnt detect my mouse or keyboard.
then it didt detect my usb drive with windows 10 (bought one from miscrosoft)

plugged everything in the back, and mouse+kb worked. usb drive keept bsod'ing me so got a different usb drive and made my own boot drive.

i tried that in the front and this time it detected it so no clue what was wrong before.

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window version, 1080ti sc no mod. u9s cooler

in bios my temp is 37c, and i think ambient is 26c in my room. i'll stress test it later to see if its OC'able.
i have the cool fan, rear fan, and 2 under the gpu. shows in bios as 2 fans + aio pump

i picked XMP profile 2, will need to check if it actually stick in windows as its still showing stock in bios


still waiting on a few aesthetic parts. but otherwise should be good to go.
 
so first boot it didnt detect my mouse or keyboard.
then it didt detect my usb drive with windows 10 (bought one from miscrosoft)

plugged everything in the back, and mouse+kb worked. usb drive keept bsod'ing me so got a different usb drive and made my own boot drive.

i tried that in the front and this time it detected it so no clue what was wrong before.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

window version, 1080ti sc no mod. u9s cooler

in bios my temp is 37c, and i think ambient is 26c in my room. i'll stress test it later to see if its OC'able.
i have the cool fan, rear fan, and 2 under the gpu. shows in bios as 2 fans + aio pump

i picked XMP profile 2, will need to check if it actually stick in windows as its still showing stock in bios


still waiting on a few aesthetic parts. but otherwise should be good to go.
Loose cable?
 
I've been using this build for over a year now. Running an 1800X Oc @ 4ghz with a 1080ti. Its been fantastic and very solid. Pretty much used it every day for heavy 3D work. Reading and catching up on these posts has been fun and I feel compelled to build another one with newer components.
Interesting to see the C14s doing well with a 140 mm fan underneath. I'll likely go with this. Currently running with a C14 and 120 mm intake.
View attachment 111266

Why not just use a 140mm fan as an intake? That 140mm noctua fan + a 120mm should do it. Can't imagine the C14s beats the C14 in that way.
 
Hi guys,

I finished my new build today so I also did a bench for you for the 9900K in the M1.

Here's my setup:
- Asrock z390 phantom gaming-itx/ac
- i9 9900K
- Noctua U9S (two A9 fans on the cpu heatsink)
- Third Noctua A9 on the back of the case as exhaust
- Noctua NF-A12x25 as intake on the side for the case
- Vega 64 with aftermarket cooler morpheus ii
- Two Noctua 120mm X 15mm slim on the bottom of the case as exhaust

So a total of 6 fans to try to cold this beast.

I'm still trying some settings to do a small undervolt and this is not final. CPU was stable at around 76C after 5 minutes of Aida64

bench_aida.png
 
Hi guys,

I finished my new build today so I also did a bench for you for the 9900K in the M1.

Here's my setup:
- Asrock z390 phantom gaming-itx/ac
- i9 9900K
- Noctua U9S (two A9 fans on the cpu heatsink)
- Third Noctua A9 on the back of the case as exhaust
- Noctua NF-A12x25 as intake on the side for the case
- Vega 64 with aftermarket cooler morpheus ii
- Two Noctua 120mm X 15mm slim on the bottom of the case as exhaust

So a total of 6 fans to try to cold this beast.

I'm still trying some settings to do a small undervolt and this is not final. CPU was stable at around 76C after 5 minutes of Aida64

View attachment 117366

That isn't bad at all, I was wondering how well you could cool the 9900k with smaller coolers.
 
Hi guys,

I finished my new build today so I also did a bench for you for the 9900K in the M1.

Here's my setup:
- Asrock z390 phantom gaming-itx/ac
- i9 9900K
- Noctua U9S (two A9 fans on the cpu heatsink)
- Third Noctua A9 on the back of the case as exhaust
- Noctua NF-A12x25 as intake on the side for the case
- Vega 64 with aftermarket cooler morpheus ii
- Two Noctua 120mm X 15mm slim on the bottom of the case as exhaust

So a total of 6 fans to try to cold this beast.

I'm still trying some settings to do a small undervolt and this is not final. CPU was stable at around 76C after 5 minutes of Aida64

View attachment 117366

That package Wattage seems a bit low if you ask me. Is this with a TDP of 95W? or did you let it loose? It can perform better with a higher TDP setting. So a way to see if this low package wattage is because of lower performance is to run fx Cinebench. So if I can ask for a favor. Try to run CineBench R15 and look at the score and the package wattage while that is running.
 
We have been working to get a low profile (<48mm) CPU DDC Pump Res combo that will work for the M1, A4, C4 and Mach One.

Here are some pictures of prototype 1.

kMVv8L2.jpg

dDj29FW.jpg
i4xVIho.jpg


I have more ideas than time to execute, so we ask you guys to be patient, the product will only get better with iterations on our end - and it has to be, or else why waste everyone's time.
 
We have been working to get a low profile (<48mm) CPU DDC Pump Res combo that will work for the M1, A4, C4 and Mach One.

Here are some pictures of prototype 1.

View attachment 118225
View attachment 118226View attachment 118227

I have more ideas than time to execute, so we ask you guys to be patient, the product will only get better with iterations on our end - and it has to be, or else why waste everyone's time.
Have you talked to frozenq? Maybe a modified version of their m1 res would be a good place to start (looks like you're already mostly there, though).
 
Have you talked to frozenq? Maybe a modified version of their m1 res would be a good place to start (looks like you're already mostly there, though).

Look at the pics again, it appears to be a pump/rez combo that is also the CPU waterblock...
 
We have been working to get a low profile (<48mm) CPU DDC Pump Res combo that will work for the M1, A4, C4 and Mach One.

Here are some pictures of prototype 1.

View attachment 118225
View attachment 118226View attachment 118227

I have more ideas than time to execute, so we ask you guys to be patient, the product will only get better with iterations on our end - and it has to be, or else why waste everyone's time.

Is that a MonoBlock? what board would that mount to?
 
Is that a MonoBlock? what board would that mount to?

Look at the pics again, the caliper measurements, the spacing on the four slotted holes in the corners...

This is a pump/rez/CPU water block combo unit...

Think Swiftech Apogee Drive II with an integrated rez...
 
Look at the pics again, the caliper measurements, the spacing on the four slotted holes in the corners...

This is a pump/rez/CPU water block combo unit...

Think Swiftech Apogee Drive II with an integrated rez...
That also cools the mosfets/VRM? LIKE A MONOBLOCK?
 
That also cools the mosfets/VRM? LIKE A MONOBLOCK?

No...

Like a CPU water block...

The pics clearly show the block is 88.00mm x 90.54mm, which is within the CPU Keep Out Zone, of which things like mosfets & VRMs are not allowed within...
 
We have been working to get a low profile (<48mm) CPU DDC Pump Res combo that will work for the M1, A4, C4 and Mach One.

Here are some pictures of prototype 1.

View attachment 118225
View attachment 118226View attachment 118227

I have more ideas than time to execute, so we ask you guys to be patient, the product will only get better with iterations on our end - and it has to be, or else why waste everyone's time.

In general nice project, but how do you want to modify this DDC for a silent operation? I had a DDC 310 running at 2450 rpm (10 V throttling) mounted on a Aqua Computer Shoggy to elemiate any vibrations from the pump, this was ok and pretty silent, but without any additional work, a DDC running 3000 or more rpm, without any damping, provides a very annoying sound signature.
 
No...

Like a CPU water block...

The pics clearly show the block is 88.00mm x 90.54mm, which is within the CPU Keep Out Zone, of which things like mosfets & VRMs are not allowed within...

Thanks! I dont have the specs for the Keep Out Zone ingrained in my memory, so thanks for clarifying.
 
Pretty sure I saw it in this thread, but I didn't save it so I'm not 100% sure.

Saw an NCASE where the guy had plugged up all the unused motherboard I/O slots with dust caps, the hard plastic kind you get with GPUs that have the pull tabs. Anyone know where to get a set of those?
 
Pretty sure I saw it in this thread, but I didn't save it so I'm not 100% sure.

Saw an NCASE where the guy had plugged up all the unused motherboard I/O slots with dust caps, the hard plastic kind you get with GPUs that have the pull tabs. Anyone know where to get a set of those?

Just search for port dust covers, here are some on ebay.
 
Hi guys,

I recently changed my cooling setup in the Ncase M1 V5. I initially had a NH U9S in push-pull and a 120mm PWM Noctua fan on the side bracket in front of the PSU. I bought a Scythe Kabuto 3 which was cheap (around 40€) and seemed to perform really well according to some reviews:
https://www.computerforum.de/threads/review-scythe-kabuto-3.69179/
https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Scythe/Kabuto_3/7.html

Thank you for your post! I picked up the Kabuto 3 from Amazon for $40 and I am seriously impressed. It is way quieter than my stock Wraith Spire cooler. My load temperatures have dropped 10° C and my Ryzen 2600x is boosting even higher. I will probably leave in the stock Scythe fan since it's so quiet already.
 
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After coming across Shottie's post on reddit, I thought my findings would be of interest here regarding fan shroud removal of the Asus Strix 2080.

zmuXWZM.jpg

Details in imgur album:
https://imgur.com/a/hJ0YFSR

TLDR: You can't run fans as exhaust due to the wire management tabs, flipping as intake gets you the needed extra space but I'm worried about all the heat in the case. Will test more tonight. Also my card has coil whine :(
 
After coming across Shottie's post on reddit, I thought my findings would be of interest here regarding fan shroud removal of the Asus Strix 2080.

View attachment 119731

Details in imgur album:
https://imgur.com/a/hJ0YFSR

TLDR: You can't run fans as exhaust due to the wire management tabs, flipping as intake gets you the needed extra space but I'm worried about all the heat in the case. Will test more tonight. Also my card has coil whine :(
Thanks for sharing! I assume the fan bracket is not easily removable?
 
Sadly just like the EVGA bracket it appears to be soldered on. I didn't see a single screw between the bracket and heatsink.
 
Sadly just like the EVGA bracket it appears to be soldered on. I didn't see a single screw between the bracket and heatsink.

Thanks for sharing. Looks like there needs to be some dremeling done to get it to work. You go first!
 
With the reports of 20XX issues I'm weary of doing anything that could jeopardize a warranty claim. Tonight I'll see if a 240mm AIO (exhaust) + rear external 92mm (intake or exhaust) will work and keep temperatures under control once the case is all closed up.

If this ends up being too hot, I will likely wait till EVGA puts out their RTX hybrid cards - supposedly mid to late November - along with a U9S to mimic my old setup of a D9L + 980ti Hybrid.
 
Does the tab interfere with both fans, or just the front one? Would it be feasible to do a 120+92?

Also if you happened to try, does the card fit with the stock shroud/fans on?
 
Granted I didn't try very hard, but I couldn't get it to fit. The stock shroud hangs low and past the end of the card so it hits the front IO connector area, 2.5 vs 2.7 slot from the 1080ti STRIX I would guess.

The two tab interference photos are of the front and rear GT 120mm fans. You can easily fit 92mm fans in any orientation without any interference which is also on my to-do list if things fall through, although I only have 2 fans to test with.
 
Yeah, the 2080 is a bit less than 2mm thicker and longer. Cheers on the testing though, I’ve been wondering if that model would fit and I’m glad someone got to it before I could convince myself to try!
 
After coming across Shottie's post on reddit, I thought my findings would be of interest here regarding fan shroud removal of the Asus Strix 2080.

View attachment 119731

Details in imgur album:
https://imgur.com/a/hJ0YFSR

TLDR: You can't run fans as exhaust due to the wire management tabs, flipping as intake gets you the needed extra space but I'm worried about all the heat in the case. Will test more tonight. Also my card has coil whine :(

So are the fans all the way at the buttom mounted to the case floor? Or are they mounted to the cooler on the GPU?.. Cause if there are a few milimeters to give by mounting them to the case instead that could be enough..

But it seems like we just need to by EVGA cards and mount accelero (HERO) III as with 10x0 series. (EVGA because of not loosing warrenty).
 
The fans at the bottom are friction fit between the case floor and graphics card. Mounting the fans to the bottom of the M1 will cause the tabs on the graphics card to hit the frame, they also need to be able to move slightly to be able to slot in the graphics card. Once the card is in place I was able to wiggle them back closer to the vents at the bottom of the case although not perfectly.

Testing last night went well. All tests were done with the H100i in exhaust letting it regulate it's own fans and pump on the balanced setting, both GPU as intake were controlled by the fan headers on the card with all side panels of the M1 mounted. An hour or so of Fortnite (don't judge me) never saw temperatures above 52 C on the GPU. After 20+ minutes of Unigine Superposition (for some reason I didn't expect it to loop continuously) immediately followed by 3dMark Firestrike + Time Spy benchmarks yielded GPU temps in the ~65 C range with a peak of 67 C that occurred sometime during the Superposition test. During testing CPU temperatures were around the low to mid 40s and peaked at 49 C. So all in all about a ~5-10 C increase in temperatures vs. open panel testing. All that's left is to fine tune the fan profile but I'm pretty happy with the results.

A "feature" I ran into is that the two Asus Fan Connect headers have a minimum setting of 50% which I can't seem to get around. I like these as they can be driven from GPU temperatures as opposed to a motherboard header + SpeedFan. I'd rather not use SpeedFan as there are a few anti-cheat programs (notably Battleye) that block or break functionality.
 
Seems like pretty decent performance. Certainly the 240mm of exhaust helps things, but I bet a 92+120 case exhaust could probably handle dissipating that heat, too. Do you know whereabouts the speed of the intake 120’s hit during Superposition? I find my A12x25 pretty quiet at 50%, but if you don’t need to ramp them too high during gpu load maybe you can stick an in-line low noise adapter to lower the floor/ceiling speeds.

Semi related, I was able to pickup a gigabyte windforce 2080 for about $200 less than the Strix. At full load and with my conservative 50% gpu fan speed, it has to throttle ~50-100MHz to stay below 83C. For me, that’s fine, but my issue is at low GPU loads (e.g. running an older game) since the gpu fans make an audible click when starting and are unable to spin steadily below 40%. But if I start the fan curve at say 60C, within a minute or two of the fans running the temps are back in the 50s and the fans keep clicking on/off. I’m trying to avoid running the gpu fans all the time but that might be my only option—do any of the GPU software tools (afterburner, evga xoc, whatever asus is called) allow to set different curves for “spin up” vs “spin down”?
 
Hi Guys, one of my screws stripped, does anyone know how or where I can get an alternative screw?

2gCZsBR.png
 
Teo: I had them ramp up to 2000 RPM during the testing to see what best case temperatures I could get.


xfan10: Looks like one of the M3 screws. See this post by Necere listing all included accessories. I have a McMaster Carr nearby that has some of these in varying lengths, some big box retail hardware stores may also carry them.
 
Teo: I had them ramp up to 2000 RPM during the testing to see what best case temperatures I could get.


xfan10: Looks like one of the M3 screws. See this post by Necere listing all included accessories. I have a McMaster Carr nearby that has some of these in varying lengths, some big box retail hardware stores may also carry them.
So jealous. McMaster is the best. I've only ever had a Fastenall, which was permanently out of stock of anything you would want and incompetent to the point of being unable to order what you want .
 
Teo: I had them ramp up to 2000 RPM during the testing to see what best case temperatures I could get.


xfan10: Looks like one of the M3 screws. See this post by Necere listing all included accessories. I have a McMaster Carr nearby that has some of these in varying lengths, some big box retail hardware stores may also carry them.

would you know which screw it is exactly so I can order it on McMaster Carrs website?
 
I doubt the screw is the problem, most likely the threads on the hole got stripped. Have you tried it with another screw? I have the same problem with one of my PCIe screws, and it's definitely the hole, not the screw. Don't think there's a way to fix that. You could use a nut on the other side.
 
I was looking at the 2080ti FTW3. This is the best way for me to demonstrate my thought process.

Itwillfit.png
 
The Thermalright 130 mm tower has finally released in China. Taobao/T-Mall only right now with world wide availability later. https://detail.tmall.com/item.htm?s...35569ed55e27b&abbucket=19&skuId=3906255720277

It seems interesting. 240W design power, but it's pretty light for it's size, though. And they have two options: normal and plus (which is entirely nickel plated). I like it can take a 120mm fan though. That alone should give it a leg up, along with 6 heatpipes.

Noctua U9S/D9L have unknown TDP designs since Noctua doesn't release those. Alpenfohn Atlas is 200W.
 
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