2080ti 2080 Ownership Club

I totally get why you'd want a brand new $1200 GPU to not have any issues. But why do you have to get both cards replaced if only one has a problem?

I maybe explained this horribly.

I bought two cards. One card out of the box didn't work. I contacted NVidia and got that card replaced. When installing the replacement card, everything seems to work fine in SLI, but I stepped around to the side to see that the other (original) card I had bought, the logo didn't light up. So, neither of the original cards worked as intended, and will be using two replacement cards for them.
 
So, neither of the original cards worked as intended, and will be using two replacement cards for them.

Thanks for the clarification, definitely not a good experience from the start, hopefully the new cards will get you straight. So far I'm pretty happy with mine. The only issue was the cost, but you already knew that. ;)
 
So, while the second card arrived, and everything seems to work fine, one of the logo lights (for the old card) wasn't working. I switched card locations, and it still isn't working. Since the cards work, it's not that big of a deal to me, but at $1200 apiece, I contacted NVidia, so both of my original cards are now going to have been replaced.

Overall, I can't say I've been thrilled with this launch one bit.

Have you got an asus mobo? Apparently there's an issue with the asus aura software and the fe lights.
 
Have you got an asus mobo? Apparently there's an issue with the asus aura software and the fe lights.

Nope, Gigabyte.

upload_2018-10-12_20-21-36.png


So, apparently when taking this, there was some visual distortion going on. Hopefully it's just drivers, but disabling the SLI, and not using the old card, it seemed to disappear. That's partly why getting a new card for the second is also warranted. You never know exactly what is broken if something as basic as the light doesn't work.
 
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Dude, more power to you. You are the one inconvenienced and put out of sorts here. No need to validate why you are doing an RMA. The good thing - is the light is off but it works until the RMA is needed. So, at least you can game while you wait/etc. $1200 plus tax - it had better be perfect!

On another note - am I crazy to be considering an RTX 2080 for my secondary box?? lol...my Lightning Z can fetch around $700-$800 on eBay and I just feel one DLSS and RTX gets hot people will be all over these cards.
 
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Dude, more power to you. You are the one inconvenienced and put out of sorts here. No need to validate why you are doing an RMA.

He's just venting.

On another note - am I crazy to be considering an RTX 2080 for my secondary box?? lol...my Lightning Z can fetch around $7000-$800 on eBay and I just feel one DLSS and RTX gets hot people will be all over these cards.

And that's it, if DLSS and RT catch on of course. Honestly I've got no feel for this one. I think it can if there's something there to impress but so little to date has been shown it's the exact opposite of impressive for now. Maybe that'll change.
 
Dude, more power to you. You are the one inconvenienced and put out of sorts here. No need to validate why you are doing an RMA. The good thing - is the light is off but it works until the RMA is needed. So, at least you can game while you wait/etc. $1200 plus tax - it had better be perfect!

On another note - am I crazy to be considering an RTX 2080 for my secondary box?? lol...my Lightning Z can fetch around $700-$800 on eBay and I just feel one DLSS and RTX gets hot people will be all over these cards.

If it's about an even swap I'd do it.
 
Almost 1 month into launch, where are these features? I have about $700 cash to drop from my spiff card and I want to see results in order to get one of these. :(
 
cybereality: Can you post a picture of your monitor setup? I'm curious about surround gaming.
Yeah, sure.

SurroundFarCry.jpg


Surround is kind of like SLI. A good amount of games are supported, but there are many that don't work right or don't work at all. Or they work, but you have to manually edit ini files, or otherwise use mods to get them working. However *when* it works, it's amazing.

Though I haven't tried ultrawides yet, I think that is probably a better path forward. The resolution on Surround is so high that performance is a big issue, though if you use 3x 1080p monitors you may be okay. Otherwise an ultrawide would give you less pixels but much better performance and you don't have to worry about the bezels or distortion (if you angle the monitors in). In any case, you can barely see the periphery of the side monitors, so you're not losing much with an ultrawide. That said, triple monitor are great for work. I do coding on the computer and it's really helpful to have the screen real-estate. I can have my IDE open on one monitor, the app on a second, and Firefox with docs/tutorials on the third. Much better than a single screen by far.
 
The resolution on Surround is so high that performance is a big issue, though if you use 3x 1080p monitors you may be okay.

I'll probably keep my 3x 1080p setup for years to come, I just like it for work purposes and I still use 3D Vision for 3D BD once or twice a month. For gaming though a single 4k display I think the way to go today because it's far less problematic and there's lots of options for screen size. I imagine those two 2080 Tis aren't having too many problems driving those displays especially when SLI works well.
 
I'll probably keep my 3x 1080p setup for years to come, I just like it for work purposes and I still use 3D Vision for 3D BD once or twice a month. For gaming though a single 4k display I think the way to go today because it's far less problematic and there's lots of options for screen size. I imagine those two 2080 Tis aren't having too many problems driving those displays especially when SLI works well.
Yeah, for sure. I've been gaming on a 4K TV for the last year or so. I think overall that is the best choice as there usually aren't any software issues to deal with. You also have the option of using a custom ultrawide resolution if you want. I hadn't really used the Surround rig for a while, but decided to upgrade and get back into it, and it's still pretty cool. I think the Surround glitches would probably be too much if it were my only rig. I have the 4K TV on my Ryzen rig, and a 125" 1080p projector in the living room, so I'll switch up depending on the game where I want to play. But it can really depend on the use-case, triple screen is great for work and also for sim games if that is your thing. 4K TVs are relatively cheap these days, though, and it will be less headache.
 
My search is over!

nowinstock alerts had been quiet for awhile, but I randomly refresh Best Buy to see if one pops up. One showed in stock 45min from me, but would not allow me to pick up in store. I hopped in my car and got there 30min before closing and was able to snag the last one.

h4BqdS6l.jpg
 
So, apparently the replacement card I received is artifacting and then blue screening.



I removed the card without a working LED, and this card still has that problem, plus, I can't play any game more than 4 seconds before my system blue screens.

Out of 3 cards, I've only received 1 which properly works, and that doesn't have a working LED, so replacing it.

I'm just really pissed with the 2080TIs right now.
 
RE: 3x monitors versus Ultrawide - there really is no comparison. A few years ago my setup was 3x BenQ 144Hz 1080p monitors - moved to a 27" Acer XB270HU 144Hz G-SYNC and finally a Alienware 34 Ultrawide (G-SYNC, 120Hz (OC'd)) - it's crazy how much better it is. It just works. It is super immersive. I highly recommend you guys check it out to see if you like it better than triple monitor.

And hey - if you guys still want multi-monitor - buy 2-3 Ultrawides...be [H]. :)
 
[note: not an owner, mostly just following the conversation, the below is a general comment reply]

Though I haven't tried ultrawides yet, I think that is probably a better path forward. The resolution on Surround is so high that performance is a big issue, though if you use 3x 1080p monitors you may be okay. Otherwise an ultrawide would give you less pixels but much better performance and you don't have to worry about the bezels or distortion (if you angle the monitors in). In any case, you can barely see the periphery of the side monitors, so you're not losing much with an ultrawide. That said, triple monitor are great for work. I do coding on the computer and it's really helpful to have the screen real-estate. I can have my IDE open on one monitor, the app on a second, and Firefox with docs/tutorials on the third. Much better than a single screen by far.


Let me offer an additional option: an ultrawide plus a pair of inexpensive screens stacked to one side or the other. I like the idea of surround and ultrawides personally, but didn't want to deal with the software issues, so I'm at 32" 1440p 144Hz G-Sync up front; however, I have a 32" 4k on the left, and a pair of 24" 1080p IPS stacked on the right. The side monitors, combined, with the stand for the second pair, cost about what the central monitor did- of course, all were on sale.

The 4k panel at 32" is perhaps still a bit too high for unscaled viewing. I can roll with it, but I could see many having trouble. The 24" 1080p monitors are absolutely great. Cheap-ass $100 Acers that have decent color but great viewing angles and sharpness, and 1080p is perfect for web viewing or other auxiliary output.
 
Is anyone playing the new Call of Dudes? 2080 Ti rips through everything maxed at 3440x1440/120Hz - getting around 130 FPS.

Also, on another note - my OC Scanner "stable" OC of 175MHz caused a crash (or maybe it was BLOPS4) - so I dialed it back a little to +165MHz. So far, so good. I guess that's why it says 90% confidence level.
 
RE: 3x monitors versus Ultrawide - there really is no comparison. A few years ago my setup was 3x BenQ 144Hz 1080p monitors - moved to a 27" Acer XB270HU 144Hz G-SYNC and finally a Alienware 34 Ultrawide (G-SYNC, 120Hz (OC'd)) - it's crazy how much better it is. It just works. It is super immersive. I highly recommend you guys check it out to see if you like it better than triple monitor.

Agreed. I think I use my ultrawide 38" more than my 4k OLED. Really depends on the game. Some just benefit more from having the huge screen, but the much larger field of view with the ultrawide is really nice.

43” 4K for me @ 2.5ft. IMAX for your face, filling up the peripheral..

Nod. Mine is 55" but I sit about 4'. It's really too big to be sharp, but from 4' it appears pretty good. Really wish there were an OLED panel that does HDR10 in a 40-45" size
 
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So, apparently the replacement card I received is artifacting and then blue screening.



I removed the card without a working LED, and this card still has that problem, plus, I can't play any game more than 4 seconds before my system blue screens.

Out of 3 cards, I've only received 1 which properly works, and that doesn't have a working LED, so replacing it.

I'm just really pissed with the 2080TIs right now.


And one issue is a user fix could be possible only nvidia for some weird reason put the controller board under that middle section thats glued down. Few screws to hold it down would have been better but they went with glue.
 
And one issue is a user fix could be possible only nvidia for some weird reason put the controller board under that middle section thats glued down. Few screws to hold it down would have been better but they went with glue.

Perhaps. On the official Geforce forums, it seems the majority of people who are having problems are people who went with FE cards. Those who bought third party seem to be doing fine for the most part.
 
Perhaps. On the official Geforce forums, it seems the majority of people who are having problems are people who went with FE cards. Those who bought third party seem to be doing fine for the most part.

Seen a few posts with people who got the fe card saying their geforce led is red, apparently the controller is capable of rgb but nvidia limited it to just green.
 
Is anyone playing the new Call of Dudes? 2080 Ti rips through everything maxed at 3440x1440/120Hz - getting around 130 FPS.

Also, on another note - my OC Scanner "stable" OC of 175MHz caused a crash (or maybe it was BLOPS4) - so I dialed it back a little to +165MHz. So far, so good. I guess that's why it says 90% confidence level.

Are you using the latest nvidia drivers? They feel more buggy to me. I played BO4 for a couple hours Thursday night without a single crash. Last night after updating to the latest drivers it crashed twice in 3 hours. Same story with PUBG.
 
So, apparently the replacement card I received is artifacting and then blue screening.



I removed the card without a working LED, and this card still has that problem, plus, I can't play any game more than 4 seconds before my system blue screens.

Out of 3 cards, I've only received 1 which properly works, and that doesn't have a working LED, so replacing it.

I'm just really pissed with the 2080TIs right now.


If you have problems with the next card you receive it's not the card. The odds of receiving that many bad cards in a row are pretty high. I'd start to suspect something with the MB.
 
Are you using the latest nvidia drivers? They feel more buggy to me. I played BO4 for a couple hours Thursday night without a single crash. Last night after updating to the latest drivers it crashed twice in 3 hours. Same story with PUBG.

Yes, latest...always keep it up to date...I even "like" GFE. Don't shun me. :)

I'll monitor it. So far, so good with the OC adjustment. Playing BLOPS4 now and the only other game I really spend time in is ARK.

EDIT: just had a second BLOPS4 crash - this time in menu between rounds - system is stable and killing the game and re-starting is fine. Must not be the OC...
 
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If you have problems with the next card you receive it's not the card. The odds of receiving that many bad cards in a row are pretty high. I'd start to suspect something with the MB.

The problem is, the fact that I have one card which isn't crashing, changed my mind into thinking it's not a motherboard issue. And the LED certainly isn't a motherboard issue. Oh, and that I tested them all on two different systems (an AMD 2950x and Intel 5960x) and seeing the results on both. Either both systems have bad motherboards, and that could be a possibility, but I'll typically stick with Occam's razor.

*EDIT*

Oh, and that I have absolutely no problems with my Titan Xps.
 
The problem is, the fact that I have one card which isn't crashing, changed my mind into thinking it's not a motherboard issue. And the LED certainly isn't a motherboard issue. Oh, and that I tested them all on two different systems (an AMD 2950x and Intel 5960x) and seeing the results on both. Either both systems have bad motherboards, and that could be a possibility, but I'll typically stick with Occam's razor.

*EDIT*

Oh, and that I have absolutely no problems with my Titan Xps.

Yeah, I hear what you're saying. If all of the cards you received except one is bad you are the unluckiest person I've ever seen.
 
Yeah, I hear what you're saying. If all of the cards you received except one is bad you are the unluckiest person I've ever seen.

There are a lot of people on the Geforce forums who are having instability issues with artifacts and blue screens and dead cards. I don't think it's about me being unlucky. I'm guessing there's a bad batch or inherent flaw with the FE cards. Almost all of the issues are limited to people with FE cards.
 
There are a lot of people on the Geforce forums who are having instability issues with artifacts and blue screens and dead cards. I don't think it's about me being unlucky. I'm guessing there's a bad batch or inherent flaw with the FE cards. Almost all of the issues are limited to people with FE cards.

I'll have to go check that out. Knock on wood, I've been trouble free.
 
I'll have to go check that out. Knock on wood, I've been trouble free.

Yeah I am happy with my card too. Although I noticed this morning my temps were climbing to 50C (normally 42C load).

I forgot to put the thermocouple that turns my radiator on into the resevoir bahaha. 12 gallon resevoir for the win.

So everything is peachy as long as I don’t kill the thing. ;)
 
The problem is, the fact that I have one card which isn't crashing, changed my mind into thinking it's not a motherboard issue.
Not sure if you saw my post before, I was getting crashing and blue screens at first. I had to get MSI Afterburner beta and set a custom fan profile (the default one is junk). I have it set to 50% at 30C up to 100% at 70C. This helped.

However, it didn't solve all the issues. I then saw a Reddit post about Corsair digital PSUs having issue, which recommended enabling single rail mode. In this case I used Corsair Link to disable OCP on the power cables.

After doing that I haven't seen a blue screen, though my computer has sometimes not woken up from sleep, and I still get a crash here an there with certain games (like Far Cry 5).

I'm not sure if one of the cards are bad, or if it's a driver issue. There are some people on Reddit with the same problem. I'd prefer not to RMA since they are basically working, so I'm hoping a new driver will be more stable.
 
Just flashed the Galax 380w bios. Decent little improvement. GPU score went from 14689 to 15300. Oddly enough, though it was clearly running with a higher voltage through the TS bench, the max temps were the same as they were before unlocking the power cap (68C with 75% fan input).

upload_2018-10-13_13-53-32.png

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/29395570
 
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Just flashed the Galax 360w bios. Decent little improvement. GPU score went from 14689 to 15300. Oddly enough, though it was clearly running with a higher voltage through the TS bench, the max temps were the same as they were before unlocking the power cap (68C with 75% fan input).

View attachment 111648
https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/29395570

So one thing I noticed is actual games use less power even at 100% util than Timespy. So it seems Timespy is worst case.

It also depends what you are doing. If you’re gaming at 60Hz that processor is still likely fine. If you’re a Hz whore it might be getting a bit old.

That 4770k overclocked is about the same or better than my 2700x in a lot of games but I don’t need super high FPS.

Very nice graphics score btw.
 
So one thing I noticed is actual games use less power even at 100% util than Timespy. So it seems Timespy is worst case.

It also depends what you are doing. If you’re gaming at 60Hz that processor is still likely fine. If you’re a Hz whore it might be getting a bit old.

That 4770k overclocked is about the same or better than my 2700x in a lot of games but I don’t need super high FPS.

Very nice graphics score btw.

Ah, thanks for the advice. I had heard that the more modern processors would improve minimum frame rates and possibly smooth out frame times. I get quit a few spikes when I'm playing games, even if the games are frame limited to 60 Hz and the GPU isn't at 100% usage. Either way, I suspect it's only a matter of time before I cave and do an overhaul. The other draws for me are NVMe SSD (jumping from my current 480gb to 1tb in the process), ddr4 ram, and modern mobo features like usb 3.1 and usb-c.

I had read about a trick that would allow Nvidia GPUs to output variable frame rates to a freesync monitor is they had a AMD processor. That's also got me thinking about going with an AMD, if true.
 
I wouldn't make a purchase based on a hack. It's entirely likely Nvidia will remove the "feature" just like with the PhysX trick.
 
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