Arcade Sticks - Discussion, Suggestions, and More

Good morning ladies and gentlemen!

Between thriving emulation of old classics on platforms like MAME and FinalBurnAlpha, retro-style modern titles from shmups to beat em ups, and the fighting game community that is resurgent on PC and console alike, many users are finding interest in Arcade Sticks!

Despite the popularity of games that shine when using such a peripheral, discussions thereof are somewhat of a niche when it comes to hardware. This can be a little daunting when it comes to deciding to invest hard earned money in what can be relatively expensive peripherals, especially if one isn't well versed on the options in the market and ramifications thereof. It is of note that while there are quality off-the-shelf sticks for many price ranges, a great many users enjoy customizing and modifying their arcade sticks for both performance and aesthetics.

Thus, I wanted to make a thread dedicated to information and discussion in regards to Arcade Sticks. I'm not aware of the level of interest or experience, so I need your input! How many of you have an arcade stick? What do you like/dislike about it? What games do you play and on what platform? Anyone interested in or considering a purchase of an arcade stick? What information would help you make your choice?

Would anyone be interested in an overview of modern off-the-shelf and/or custom sticks? Discussion of quality hardware/components going into modding or building today? I'm planning to assemble a new stick myself soon, so if there's interest in a build log I may be able to create one and post it as well.

Feel free to post pictures of your arcade sticks!

Reserved Post for overview, guide stuff...

There have already been some great posts here! To get started, I should mention that in general I'll be talking of "Arcade Sticks" as peripherals, as opposed to building a dedicated arcade-style cabinet. I welcome discussion on any sort of arcade style cab and of course there will be some significant component/control overlap, but as I've not looked deeply into building one in recent years others may be able to provide insight from their experience.

Blkt has below provided a great foundation reference to components, so I'll try to build upon it for the overview.

One of the first elements of which you should be aware when discussing arcade controls is their "style", broken down by national origin, in terms of what is the norm for arcade hardware within that particular country. This determines a number of elements regarding control component such as levers and buttons, affecting feel of play, construction, and mounting, so it is important to be aware what style components you're using and that controller/layout etc.. is compatible. These days there are pretty much 3 main styles of controls

American / "Western" style controls that are likely to remind you of playing Street Fighter in a Western arcade for the first time. Suzo Happ is one of the most popular manufacturers, though these days there are many clones in this style since moving production to China. "IL", Industrias Lorenzo are known to be the highest quality of the type, replicating classic Happ before they outsourced production to China, as iL themselves used to fabricate Happ branded components. Levers are typically "bat"-shaped and though convex buttons exist, concave ones are more popular in this style compared to anywhere else. While there is a community of dedicated users who appreciate the nostalgic aspects of American controls, much of the arcade stick community - especially those playing competitive titles such as fighting games - feel they don't provide as high quality an experience. This, in addition to their separate sizing , mounting, and (sometimes) connection styles lacking easy compatibility with components from other styles, means that American controls are not very popular for stick builds in an era where global part availability is accessible. There are a handful of off-the-shelf sticks that make use of Arcade style controls, many of them retro-focused, and perhaps most famously the X-Arcade - however I would suggest you be very aware of the other styles and options in the market before making a decision.

Japanese style controls are somewhat of the benchmark to which all others are compared, offering high quality and long history in Japan's thriving arcade scene. Standardization and documentation of components within controls make compatibility easy, such as the listing of buttons in metric 30mm / 24mm sizes. The vast majority of modern arcade stick peripherals, both stock and custom made include or are constructed with spacing/size for Japanese style controls. There are two major manufacturers of Japanese arcade hardware, Sanwa Denshii being the most popular and Seimitsu offering similarly high quality items; the Pepsi to Sanwa's Coca-Cola so to speak. Noteworthy especially for home use is Hori, who has created a particular lever and button style considered to be on the same level as the "big two". Levers are often topped with a "ball" style grip, buttons are convex and relatively sensitive. Ready made controllers may use knock off parts at lower price points, but more expensive options often highlight named (ie Sanwa, Hori) parts as a selling point. Razer, MadCatz, Hori offer several quality arcade sticks using Japanese parts and I'll go into them individually later. Unless a user has a particular need or objection, buying or building a stick with Japanese parts is a good starting point and can form your basis of comparison while offering easy compatibility.

Korean style controls offer a unique alternative to Japanese style that some players and play styles find appealing. Manufacturers such as Crown/Samducksa, Taeyoung/Myongshin, and JyueeAng offer components tested in Korean arcades. Though similar in some ways to Japanese style , there are some notable differences of which potential users must be aware to ensure compatibility. Levers are the biggest difference in that they have different mounting style and the design of the lever itself means the stick body must accommodate both a wider and deeper mount; if there is a plexiglass top panel, it too must be made with Korean sticks in mind. In general, most Korean levers are "bat" -top style when it comes to the grip. Buttons are less of an issue as, unlike sticks, they don't have a separate mounting style and are instead drop-in compatible with Japanese layouts. Just ensure those you purchase are the correct diameter (30mm or 24mm) for your needs. Most stock arcade sticks may require some modding to accept a Korean lever, though for those building many enclosures today offer either a choice to fit a Japanese or Korean lever or some on the higher end are constructed as to allow either one. The Etokki Omni is a rare example of an off-the-shelf stick that offers a Korean lever option It is said that Korean style parts are preferable for certain games, notably Tekken at the competitive level, but outside of their niche are less desirable for general use. For this reason I would suggest that a user new to arcade sticks start with Japanese style controls and try Korean when they have a basis of comparison to see if it suits them.

Overall, for a first purchase and without any special requirements, I would generally recommend an arcade stick with "name brand" Japanese style components. This will allow you get right in and play from the start, as well as tune your experience as you desire to do so. Besides a time-tested and high quality core experience applicable to a wide variety of game types, you'll also have the largest selection of modifications and upgrades both aesthetic and functional.

Layouts -

Besides the "style" of parts as described above, another important element is the layout of the stick. As it sounds, this describes how the lever and buttons are arranged in relation to each other. There are countless variations of this based on the particular arcade experience you're seeking, but I'll generally reference those common to popular, modern sticks both OEM and custom built . These are typically based upon Japanese arcade machine designs, though often are modified for home use.

Vewlix - One of the most popular layouts, used in games housed on Taito Vewlix arcade cabs. It is a full 8 button, 2 row style with the left-most buttons on each row slightly below the others. The remaining 3 in each row are on the same line. The lever can be placed either closer or farther away from the buttons depending on the particular setup variant.

Noir - Another popular layout made famous by many SEGA/Namco made arcade cabs in Japan, such as the "Astro City". Unlike the Vewlix, the Noir layout also offers 2 rows of 4 buttons (30mm), but both are arranged in a gentle parabolic curve. Many find it particularly ergonomic and easier to hit the "far" buttons if need be. The lever can be again oriented closer or further away as necessary.

Hitbox - A significant difference from the aforementioned, this is a lever-less design that instead maps the 4 cardinal lever directions to buttons instead. The layout was popularized but custom stick builder Hitbox Arcade which still offers sticks today, but most lever-less layouts are commonly referred as "Hitboxes" regardless of manufacture. Unlike most other sticks, Hitbox styles use 24mm action buttons both for the traditional right-side button grid (arranged somewhat like Vewlix or Noir depending) , but also for 3/4 of the buttons that replace the lever. 3 of the directional buttons, typically the "Left", "Down" and "Right" button are arranged in an arc for use with the fingers, placed close to the other action buttons. The "Up" directional button is a larger 30mm placed below and to the right of the rest, for use with the thumb. This may sound a strange arrangement, but those who prefer certain fighting games find that once they adapt to it, they find it enhances their play. However, for someone getting started or looking to play titles other than certain fighting or shmups, it is probably better to check out a more traditional stick with a lever first.

I'll see if I can provide links to pictures of these - Imgur is being funny for me at the moment.

There are many other types of layouts some being small modifications of those described above and others radically different, but these are some of the most frequently used with Japanese style arcade sticks as well as the most popular of the stickless designs.

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Pre-Built and OEM Arcade Sticks overview be found at Post #12 in this thread


More to come! - Individual component type discussion!

So many different manufacturers and models, but I will stick to major players and most common parts.

Japan Joysticks: Sanwa JLF and Seimitsu LS-32 are the standard you will find in Japan. These are the classic models you would find on cabinets as far back as the early 90's. You will have the classic square gate mechanical feel with spring resistance. There are two mounting plate styles: flat and S type. There are two connection types: 5-pin header and the classic quick disconnects (directly to the micro switches). Some very notable variants are the Sanwa Silent JLF-TPRG-8BYT-SK, Seimitsu LS-40, LS-56 and LS-62.

You will find online statements such as Sanwa JLF and Seimitsu LS-32 are for fighting games or LS-40 and LS-56 are for shmups, as if these are their only intended use. They are opinions and it all comes down to personal preference. These sticks are designed for all-purpose 8-way digital input. If you are playing Galaga or Pacman (2-way 4-way) the LS-32 and LS-40 restrictor plates support all three gate configurations.

Korean Joysticks: Taeyoung Fanta (original), Myoungshin Fanta (clone), Crown (Samducksa) 309 Helpme and 309MJ. Korean joysticks traditionally only use a rubber grommet to return the stick to center, with exception of the Crown sticks I mentioned as they also include a spring. These have a different mounting style than Japanese sticks so you will need an adapter mounting plate or a case with a top panel that accepts their screw hole pattern, larger stick hole diameter and deeper mounting depth. The exception to the rule is the Crown 309MJ as this model is specifically designed to mount in a Japanese cabinet's control panel or modern arcade stick case. If you are playing Tekken, you will want a Korean joystick.

The most common joystick mod you can do is replace a stronger tension spring or grommet. Some examples would be replacing JLF's 0.9lb with a 2lb spring or Crown 309MJ's 25A grommet with a shore A rating of 35. Seimitsu has released LS-38 which is an LS-32 with a stiffer spring. There are other mods you can do (micro switches, actuator, restrictor gate/plate, shaft) but be prepared to do research and a lot of trial and error as it is very easy to make things worse.

Japan Buttons: Sanwa OBS series you will not feel them click and they are very easy to press, even just by sliding your fingers across. There are also rugged and silent models. Seimitsu PS-14 series has a little more force required; they have unique feel and sound. Both manufacturers have snap-in and screw-in variants. The main action buttons are 30mm and the select buttons are sometimes 24mm on modern arcade stick cases.

Korean Buttons: Traditionally these are a little smaller, but modern Crown/Samducksa buttons such as SDB-201 are 30mm.

"American" Sticks and Buttons: Designed and manufactured in Spain, Industrias Lorenzo EuroJoystick and iL PSL buttons are the original parts used in Western arcades and were produced for Suzo Happ until sometime in 2005 when Happ decided to clone them in China. Industrias Lorenzo still produces them today under their own name. Use these if you feel like torturing yourself with nostalgia and missed inputs (the square actuator shifts orientation a little which is the primary reason you will have problems with consistent results). If it's not bad enough, try the Suzo Happ Competition Chinese clones. The most notable differences between the iL EuroJoystick and Happ Competition sticks are the actuator, micro switches and in general the Happ is cheaper feeling. They have completely different mounting dimensions from Japan and Korea, which are now the standard in modern stick cases. You will need to make your own case, have an existing American arcade cabinet or an X-Arcade. Happ also makes "Super" and "Ultimate" sticks, but the Super has issues with diagonal inputs and the Ultimate is sadly a step backward in design, feel and consistency compared to the original Competition sticks produced by iL pre-2005 for Happ. Just go with the iL EuroJoystick if you insist on the classic American arcade experience.

Rotary Joysticks: Ikari Warriors, Guerilla War, Time Soldiers, Midnight Resistance, Gondomania etc. If you are interested in these kinds of games you need a mechanical rotary stick. The original Seimitsu LS-30 and Wico rotary sticks are very expensive today and difficult to find in good condition. Happ's replacement rotary stick is no longer in production (for good reason, they were known to be wrist breakers). Your best bet is a rotary stick I found from IST MALL and you will need to search for a rotary to USB adapter board online if you plan on using this with emulators instead of the original JAMMA boards. A select few titles used optical rotary sticks (Caliber 50 for example) so a fair warning. There are mods out there for optical rotary using a cheap USB mouse sensor.

The best USB controller board is the Brook Universal Fighting Board (hardware design, firmware, lowest latency, features and support: Xbox One, Xbox 360, PS4, PS3, Wii U, PC XInput and Switch).

There is a large community of custom case designers out there (wood, acrylic, metal) but I won't list them all here. You can also modify an existing Hori, Mad Catz, Razer or Eightarc/Qanba stick.

http://www.etokki.com/ The etokki Omni has a steel case designed to accept Japanese and Korean sticks (only top clear panel is swapped). There are two editions: Sanwa (JLF) and Korean (Taeyoung Fanta). Buttons are Sanwa and the layout is Namco Noir.

http://www.jasenscustoms.com/ The Panzer arcade case is DIY also supports mounting all Japanese and Korean sticks with only a plexi overlay swap. Button layout is Sega 2P.

http://www.tek-innovations.com/arthobbies/ Acrylic cases, custom plexiglass and artwork prints.

https://arcadeshock.com/

https://www.focusattack.com/

https://paradisearcadeshop.com/

https://www.akishop.jp/

http://istmall.co.kr/us/main/index.php

http://arcadestick-indonesia.com/

I use HAPP Super 8 way joysticks in my cabinet. I would have gone for the Happ 360 but it was too expensive for me at the time. Works pretty well for casual MK and side-scrollers.

This is actually a pretty great thread idea. I'll be building a cabinet next summer. At least, that's the plan. So, it'll be nice to see what people use and recommend. I think I'm going Happ for the build, as I think the majority of the games I'll be playing are going to be older arcade/beat em ups. Not fighters.

The X-Arcade TankStick has served me well for the last 15 years or so. I love that giant trackball. While 2 player side by side is kinda annoying for couch play, if you have the need for it I would probably purchase them all separate, but honestly I never play on a couch so it's not a problem. Also no idea if this is "competitive" but it is a solid beast that will never die., great for my beat 'em up, Metal slug, etc.

D-Wiz said:

The X-Arcade TankStick has served me well for the last 15 years or so. I love that giant trackball. While 2 player side by side is kinda annoying for couch play, if you have the need for it I would probably purchase them all separate, but honestly I never play on a couch so it's not a problem. Also no idea if this is "competitive" but it is a solid beast that will never die., great for my beat 'em up, Metal slug, etc.

Click to expand...

I use one of these with my arcade cabinet, it works great!

I modded my friends iCade box a bunch of times over the years. Installed 4-5 different joysticks for him and redid the top plate with a standard 2 button config.
He ended up choosing a leaf spring type joystick, the kind used in the original Ms. Pacman, which is his favorite arcade game so he wanted it to feel just like that.
I have box of all the joysticks he bought and extra arcade buttons.

This is his modded one,


and my original one that I haven't modded yet,


I plan on modding mine into a retro pie machine with a built in screen.
I have the pi setup already, but I need to get the control interface to use my iPad LCD screen in it.

Qanba Dragon for me.

I built a custom panel about 9 years ago using mostly Suzo/Happ controls. I can't remember all of the stuff I put into it but the joysticks are Happ 49-way optical, trackball is Happ 3", Happ trigger stick set up for Tron, TurboTwist2 spinner, and GPWiz40 controller. Total cost in 2009 dollars was right around $1500. I got most of the stuff from GroovyGameGear. Have not used the panel in years. I designed the panel so that it can drop into a cabinet if I wanted to. I ended up making an adjustable stand for it, which works better when using it with my 75" TV in my main room. It is a little too wide when using the pinball flipper buttons on the side, but I didn't start out designing it for pinball. The buttons on left and right side are different because I was playing with different color-coding I liked best for the games I like playing the most. I went with the right side and mirrored the left side to it.

hitbox!

Wow you guys have some great sticks! I didn't know there would be so many American style users here too!

Was it difficult to mod in those iArcades? They would seem to be a rather tight space to work!

Jevans, that's an extraordinary custom setup! THat's probably one of the most comprehensive American -style-for-retro-use kits I've seen in awhile; I rarely see so many buttons and specialized components especially the Happ trigger "Tron" joystick I'm sure Is everything connected through that single PCB? I'm guessing there's DirectInput support, but what about X-Input? What did / do you use it to play? In any event, great looking little project.


I've run out of room editing my overview above, so I'll have to break things up a bit and add them / link to future posts. Thus I'll move the pre-built stick section down to this post instead...

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Pre-built, Ready to Play Arcade Sticks -

There may be many who are interesting in purchasing an arcade stick that is of high quality and ready to play, a tournament grade experience without needing to know lots about, test, and choose varying components - at least from the start. In the case of those listed, they are all supported to some extent by the modding community, so if you desire to add or change parts later, it will likely be easy to do so. I'll list them by manufacturer, noting the various desirable models of each.

OEM - All of these are mass produced by major manufacturers; prices listed are MSRP or common pricing within the US region.

MadCatz (Discontinued) - Once known near exclusively for low-quality console peripherals, about a decade ago MadCatz launched their Arcade FightStick line of controllers. Consulting with the arcade stick and fighting game community, the lineup proved to be a hit and was more widely distributed in the West than most niche peripherals. Models with TE or "Tournament Edition" in their name were noted to be of particularly high quality using Sanwa parts and a Vewlix layout. Unfortunately, when MadCatz went out of business awhile ago they stopped production of Arcade sticks, so the future is uncertain. Thankfully a glimmer of hope remains thanks to the new owners of MadCatz having recently tweeted that they remember their arcade stick fans, but they don't have anything to announce...yet.

MadCatz FightStick TE's come in several models and variations ranging from the original TE / TES+ with one body shape to the TE2 / TE2+ with another. The core features such as Sanwa hardware are pretty much identical, though the shape of the chassis itself and a few other elements may vary. For those thinking about major modifications, the TE2 / TE2+ may make it easier thanks to an easy-opening deck to access internal components, complete with room for tools and the detachable locking USB cable inside; a reason these models command a price premium. TE series have been made for X360, PS3, XB1, and PS4 , with the X360 , XB1, and PS4 being the most desirable given native X-Input support on PC. All of them have the easy ability to add new artwork if desired, and some of them include a built-in storage "pocket" for the cable.. The discontinuation has sometimes caused prices to jump on new and used sticks alike, but buying a used MadCatz FightStick TE series is a great way to pick up a quality stick at affordable price if you purchase from a reputable seller. We'll have to see what sort of new products the revived MadCatz offers, but their existing FightStick TE lineup are well regarded by the community.

Qanba / Eightarc - https://qanbausa.com/ - Chinese-based company Qanba releases branded sticks under their name here in the US and has also partnered with US west cost distributor Eightarc so sometimes that name is referenced as well. Qanba has a number of arcade sticks, but I'll skip over the lower end options that use off-brand components (Carbon, Drone, and Crystal in order of increasing price) and instead focus on those offering Sanwa hardware.

Qanba Obsidian at $200 is the a solid entry in this tier of the market utilizing a Sanwa lever and Sanwa buttons laid out in the Vewlix style. It is PS3/PS4/PC compatible, including X-Input support on PC. A touchpad, headphone jack, cable compartment, and assortment of setting/ancillary buttons round out the PlayStation focused features. Also notable is blue LED lighting emitted from the sides of the stick; optional and able to be turned on and off at will. While it lacks a clear plexi deck, there are aftermarket options to add a replacement panel so that artwork can fit beneath; a few other minor issues with compatibility should prompt research before major modifications. The Obsidian is a reasonable entry into OEM sticks with arcade-grade components, but it also has a big brother...

The Qanba Dragon is the top of the line model from this manufacturer and retails from $280-300! It has many of the same features as the Obsidian, such as Sanwa lever/buttons, the ancillary control cluster, and LED lighting (this time on the top on of the stick instead of side), but differs in a few critical ways. Its size is particularly of note have a much larger footprint than the Obsidian and a completely different design, including a partially metal chassis and reportedly improved build quality. The most striking feature is a boon for modders as the entire play surface can be lifted and rotated up 90 degrees, allowing access to stick internals with ease! The Dragon is something of an artistic collector's item and its up to the user to determine if the price and features make it truly worthwhile.

Razer - https://www.razer.com/console - The longtime peripheral company Razer has its shares of triumphs and tribulations when it comes to product quality, but in recent years they've branched out to the creation of arcade sticks! Likely inspired by the success of MadCatz, Razer sought a piece of the pie and went about building a new product line.

Razer offers two primary models, the Atrox which targets the Xbox One + PC and the Panthera which favors the PS4 + PC. While older variants of the Atrox had some problematic elements, this updated version seems to be nearly identical to the Panthera and thus improved from the original. I'll primarily be discussing the Panthera as it seems to have a greater following in the arcade stick community, but aside from the PS4 specific features such as the touchpad, most should apply to the newer Atrox.

The Panthera retails for $200-225, with varying artwork/theme styles commanding a small price premium. Notably, the new DragonBall FighterZ does not just change the background artwork but swaps the normally all black button color scheme for orange ones with stars reminiscent of those found in the popular series. As Razer's answer to the MadCatz TE series, particularly the TE2+, it shares many of the same high end features. The lever and buttons alike are both made by Sanwa and the buttons adhere to a Vewlix style layout. It is mod friendly with a top deck that opens to reveal accessible internal components as well as a storage area which can hold additional hardware, an included screwdriver, and room for the USB cable. The Panthera uses the detachable "ProCable" style USB cable with a 5-pin locking aviation connector, but from what I've read it does NOT use the industry standard pin-out used on MadCatz TE2 / TE2+ or some custom-made ProCables, so be aware. Another possible downside is that it appears the acrylic over the artwork on top is glued on instead of screwed down meaning it is more difficult to swap to custom artwork. Some aftermarket sites offer a replacement top panel for those interested in modding, but application is a bit more than just plug-and-play so it may be daunting to some.

The Razer Panthera provides a strong competitor for other sticks in its price range, trading blows with MadCatz and others. There are a few concerns in the current design and though improved compared to previous editions, Razer is dealing with a market in which there is now stiff competition and a niche demographic with high expectations.

Hori - http://stores.horiusa.com/arcade-sticks/ - Japanese peripheral manufacturer Hori offers a wide range of licensed hardware and has for years made among the highest quality third-party items; at least in Japan. Arcade sticks are a thriving sub-category of their business and there are many of their modern offerings are well regarded by enthusiasts. It is of note that Hori, after a few stumbles, has created a unique feat in that they have self branded levers and buttons that are regarded as on par with items from heavyweights such as Sanwa and Seimitsu! Released under the Hayabusa name (or occasionally noted as "Falcon", as Hayabusa is the Japanese name for the Peregrine Falcon), their levers and buttons differ slightly from Sanwa/Seimitsu, so users may have their preference but they are of a similar "class"; I'll discuss some of the specifics in the component section. Hori offers several stick styles today, all Japanese type hardware.

The Hori Real Arcade Pro (often abbreviated as RAP) is available in its modern incarnation with a few variations based around the consoles it is intended to support, priced generally in the $150 range. I'll mostly be discussing the most popular "Real Arcade Pro 4 Kai" which offers Playstation labeling and ancillary features like the touchpad, supporting PS4/PS3/PC (via X-Input) natively. There is also a "Real Arcade Pro V Hayabusa" model for the XBOne/X360/PC, and even one for the Nintendo Switch+PC , both with labeling and features tuned to those systems. However, all of the above RAP Kai / V share a similar overall design and core features, including Hori Hayabusa and buttons, arranged in an enhanced Vewlix layout with revised wider lever placement (compared to earlier RAP iterations without Kai / V). plus a single 24mm "start/options" button set to the right . There are several color variations. Modding is relatively easy save for the lack of removable plexi mean that many people end up getting their art printed as more of an applique instead; of course, there are after market plexi kits you can buy which, after the install, will make changing artwork much easier. Swapping internal components such as buttons is relatively easy. For its price, the RAP4 Kai and contemporaries offer a solid value for an arcade stick.

However, Hori also offers the (currently) newest iteration of the series, the "Real Arcade Pro N Hayabusa". Commonly known as the RAP-N and with a price around $170, it offers many of the same base features as the RAP4 Kai, but there are some critical differences as well. Instead of the more contoured chassis shape, it is a little bit larger and rectangular, placing ancillary functions (PS4 / PS3 / PC ) on the top left corner rather than the side of the stick. It still offers the Hori Hayabusa lever and buttons, but this time utilizes the Namco/SEGA Noir button layout, as well as repositioning the 24mm options button to the top right in a recessed and concealed compartment. Modding is similar to the RAP4Kai in both positive and negative ways. The Noir layout choice and overall larger play are make it attractive to many, making the RAP-N an attractive option for only a modest additional expenditure compared to the RAP4 Kai style.

Hori offers one more commonly available arcade stick , the Hori Fighting Edge (Blade). Supporting PS4 / PC, this Fighting Edge is, at about $200, one of their larger and more luxury targeting products. Retaining the Hayabusa lever / buttons and Noir layout found on the RAP-N, the Fighting Edge offers an even larger play surface finished in bushed aluminum for a clean, premium aesthetic. Again modding is relatively easy when it comes to swapping levers and buttons, entering from the bottom of the stick without too much trouble, but should a user wish to replace the metal panel with artwork and plexi (desired by many thanks to its large play surface making for a great canvas for custom art), it will take some after market items and disassembly; thankfully there are walkthroughs from mod vendors. For those looking for a stick with a larger play area and sleek look, the Fighting Edge provides a luxurious option.

Before we come to the end of Hori discussion, I'll touch quickly on one last model because you're likely to see it discussed - the Hori Premium VLX. Not officially released outside of Japan in its latest incarnation - known as the "Hori Real Arcade Pro V Premium VLX Hayabusa PS4/PS3" - there are some collectors and enthusiasts who import them, not to mention those selling used versions of older variants (ie those using Hori revision 1 Kuro buttons versus latest gen Hayabusa/Falcon buttons). It strikes quite a form - most desirably in the black+red color scheme - and is fully co-licensed with Taito to replicate the exact play surface of a Japanese original Taito Vewlix arcade cabinet! Save for the use of Hori lever/buttons and the addition of PS4-style ancillary extras, its aesthetic has garnered many fans seeking the size, weight, and realism. This comes at a hefty price, coming in at over $400 for a new version of the latest edition. IClearly, this is a piece predominantly for collectors and enthusiasts and there are many other options out there,but I thought I should mention it as just one of the more prominent sellers of OEM sticks and arcade hardware offers it for sale.

Hori offers an assortment of high quality arcade sticks for very reasonable prices. Though they use self-branded instead of Sanwa/Seimitsu parts, they were designed to meet those high standards so for many users they do not even require replacement. Modding is easy for those who prefer to swap in other Japanese parts, with the only more involved element being replaced artwork; appliques are the easier route here, but with tutorials online modding in a replaceable plexiglass panel and printed artwork beneath it is easy. Hori's products offer a good value in general and are some of the most popular options in the $200-and less market.

I've converted over to the dark side (pads), but I still play a little here and there at a local Japanese style arcade in my area.
I prefer the American "bat" style sticks in most instances. I have no idea why, but it feels like I miss my diagonal inputs way more with the stubbier Japanese and Korean sticks. That's especially the case with Tekken, where it seems to give you less leeway on your input. Street Fighter seemingly just wants anything that isn't towards/away or down. Tekken wants that input right in-between.
The knock on the American sticks is that they definitely aren't as quick for dashing. Double tapping is much quicker on those stubby and tight sticks.

RanceJustice said:

Wow you guys have some great sticks! I didn't know there would be so many American style users here too!

Was it difficult to mod in those iArcades? They would seem to be a rather tight space to work!

Click to expand...

If you were asking me about the iCade boxes, ya they are kind of a tight squeeze to work in. iCade is basically 2 pieces, the arcade body and the control box with all the components in it.
Initially I just modded the top plate of the box, but he wanted the joystick centered so I made a new top plate with 2 buttons on each side and the joystick in the center, so if you want to play left or right handed you could.
I then added 6 small buttons on the front of the console since all 8 buttons are needed to pair the unit to a tablet if you need to re-pair it, and the add credit, reset, and other options use those buttons.


This is when I was adding that leaf spring Ms. Pacman spring joystick.
thing was quite large, had to shave a slot in the cabinet to clear the switch.


this is the front panel buttons and the new plate I made.
Buttons aren't 100% lined up unfortunately.


And these are the joysticks he bought over the years for me to install,
the 2 identical ones are the stock iCade sticks (2 on the left in the left pic and the 2 on the right in the right pic)

Don't buy American sticks. Those were only valid when you couldn't get the superior Japanese parts. Even then, most people in the fighting game community paid through the teeth to move to Sanwa Seimitsu parts and most tournaments paid to use Japanese cabinets. American sticks are a relic of when it was hard to buy the vastly superior Japanese parts, there is no reason to buy that stuff now. There is a reason you just don't see them at any tournaments and nobody really offers them anymore.

If you want a longer stick or a bat top you can simply buy a shaft extender and a bat top and mount that on a Japanese stick. See here https://arcadeshock.com/collections/balltops for batops in all sorts of materials. You can get plastic, wood, metal, whatever you want.

RanceJustice said:

Jevans, that's an extraordinary custom setup! THat's probably one of the most comprehensive American -style-for-retro-use kits I've seen in awhile; I rarely see so many buttons and specialized components especially the Happ trigger "Tron" joystick I'm sure Is everything connected through that single PCB? I'm guessing there's DirectInput support, but what about X-Input? What did / do you use it to play? In any event, great looking little project.

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The trigger joystick and the buttons run to the analog controller and that goes to USB. I have a 4-port USB controller secured to the inside of the cabinet and that handles the two magnetic joysticks, spinner, and trackball. The trackball inputs run to a small control board ( right side of inside cabinet ) and that goes to the USB controller. So. The outside connections it needs are two USB ports and a small wall wart to run the LED for the trackball and the 4-port USB controller. Mainly use it with MAME but also rigged it to act as a XBox 360 controller.

If I were to build one today, I'd use Japanese sticks and buttons but in 2008/2009 Suzo/Happ was the way to go for a MAME controller, especially to emulate American arcade games from the early 1980's. I'd still keep my controller since it works so well with MAME and the old games I like to play.

TheToE! said:

Qanba Dragon for me.

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I've been using one for awhile, and haven't had much any issues with it. The main thing is, I'm not use to the Japanese square style, so I find it's harder for me to pull off moves.

Nytegard said:

I've been using one for awhile, and haven't had much any issues with it. The main thing is, I'm not use to the Japanese square style, so I find it's harder for me to pull off moves.

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Stick with it, go into training mode and do hados and srks everyday. Force yourself to do 50 in a row. You’ll get there and when you do you’ll appreciate the square gate.

The Square Gate can make diagonals a breeze and I encourage you to give it a try and take some time to get used to it, but it doesn't hurt to try other gate styles as well! I believe the Qanba Dragon has a standard JLF and in this case its easy and cheap to swap out the gate types! There is an official Sanwa OctoGate insert which some prefer (probably the first alternative gate to try) , as well as the circle gate.

In addition, with a standard Sanwa JLF another inexpensive upgrade that may enhance you play is the Kowal 1MM Oversized Actuator! This replacement actuator will help you hit the switches a little better/faster while still having a proper neutral zone (which few other actuator mods offer).

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I"ll be updating the longer guide parts of the thread again, but I actually just finished my first build in quite a long time. Its nothing special and this is something of the "1.0 revision" for it (I don't have any art as of yet, there are a few mods I'm considering etc), but I'll have a few pictures soon!