Delidding

Anyone in south Florida area that has done it and want to help out? Have a 8700k on the way.

I'm in SWFL but my best advice is to rent a delid tool from PPCS. It is fool proof and alot safer in every way.
Skip the cave man routine with razor blade and hammer. I've done this with Haswell,Skylake & Kaby Lake and wish I had with Ivy Bridge which I distroyed my 1st one.
Coffee Lake CPU De-lidding Tool - 10 Day Rental
$15 is a small price to pay for piece of mind.
You also want to pick up some TIM worthy of the adventure get Coollaboratory Liquid Pro.
And if you want to relid get some of this Permatex 81158 Black Silicone Adhesive Sealant, 3 oz. Tube

Steps to follow: Copied and pasted from PPCS
1). Open the de-lidding tool
2). Carefully insert your CPU inside it in the right orientation
3). Close the tool and install the tool clamp
4). Insert the Allen-drive wrench and slowly/carefully turn it just until you hear and feel a "pop"
5). Open the tool carefully to remove the now-separated CPU and heatspreader

Your freshly de-lidded Coffee Lake CPU is ready for cleaning! We recommend carefully removing the factory adhesive used along the edges of the CPU's PCB (a fingernail works quite well), as well as on the heat-spreader itself. Clean off and replace the factory thermal-material off the die as well as the underside of the heatspreader. If you so wish, you can lap and polish the top of the heatspreader easily at this point.

6). Carefully install the delidded CPU into your mobo's socket, leaving the socket clamp unlatched
7). Reapply your aftermarket thermal-material to the die itself
8). Carefully slip in the cleaned heatspreader into the socket clamp and position it where it usually is on the CPU itself, holding it in place with a finger as you close and latch the socket clamp
9). Apply your aftermarket thermal-material of choice onto the heatspreader and proceed with cooling solution installation (air cooling or water cooling) like normal

I will add that if you intend to relid with the permatex or even not you must maintain proper orienattion. I use a sharpie striking a line on IHS extending onto the PCB in a straight line. It;s important to maintain the line while cleaning off the old adhesive. In this way you will make sure the IHS goes back on exactly the way it was before it was removed.

IMHO relidding with the permatex insures you end up with the same pressure the retension bracket was designed for keeping the CPU locked down and prevents slipping around. It will delay jumping right in to things because you should wait over night for proper curing of the permatex before proceeding to install the CPU into socket but worth the paitents.

Bottom line if you have an issue I'd be happy to help just hit me up with a PM.

I plan on delidding my 8700K later this week and sticking a Be Quiet Dark Rock TF on top. It's going to go into a small case so my assumption is that with all the manoeuvring and difficulty I know that I will have with my installation, I would be better off putting the IHS back. That is an assumption though, so happy for anyone to confirm otherwise.

My questions;
Is there something other than the silicone which I can use for this? Superglue seems perhaps too permanent.
Will the Cool Laboratory Liquid pro also do the job of a normal thermal paste between the IHS and cooler?

I don't think the direct to die cooling offered that much more of a benefit, also without a shim/spacer you would run the chance of crushing the die if you placed the heat sink wrong or over tighten it.

Also you have to see if the Liquid Metal you are using is reactive to metal on the heat sink. I see that it says its safe to use on copper/nickel but not aluminium, it would cause corrosion and failure of the aluminum heat sink. Google it again and make sure before you take my word, not sure if I have the right Cool Labs product.

But if I am looking at the right product, I would not use Liquid Pro and directly attach the Be Quite heat sink to it.

Watch out for this delidded CPU water block coming soon.
https://hardforum.com/threads/ncore-v1-no-frame-water-block-prototype-sneak-peek.1955801/

I delidded my i5 3570K the next day I bought it and put coollaboratory liquid ultra.
Before I could not run it OCed with fan set to lowest setting without thermal throttling and after I could. Not sure about temperatures because I do not care about these things and if processor does not throttle I assume it does not care either

Just be aware because it is easy to scratch PCB. Thankfully mine survived such mishandling just fine

Buy yourself a RockitCool Rockit88 delid/relid kit, some Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut (or Coollabs Liquid Ultra), and some red RTV gasket maker and do it yourself, man! I promise you will feel much better knowing you did it yourself the RIGHT WAY. And owning your own tool means you can delid/relid again at your whim, or for your friends.

With a real delidding tool it's pretty much impossible to screw it up.

+1 on the DIY. It is very easy. I use a Rockit88 tool though I used the block method in the past. Never had a dead chip. Just use paper towels to place the naked chip on. Use a credit card to get all the crap off, alcohol and wipe it down real good. I like to cut a breathe notch in the TOP of the IHS and I also cover the copper measure points on top of the chip closest to the die in clear nail polish. Plus some Coolabs and it is a DONE DEAL. Allows me to run my main 8700K at 5Ghz on air no problem. Temps with a GPU feeding it hot air never goes over 65C.

Buttoneer said:

Is there something other than the silicone which I can use for this? Superglue seems perhaps too permanent.

Click to expand...

They make different kinds of superglue. For example you can get a kind that is dissolved by acetone.

I used a Loctite formula that can be dissolved by acetone. I just put a tiny dab in each corner of the IHS when re-lidding and it's worked great.

My advice would be DO NOT USE SUPER GLUE.

The one CPU I ever killed was a 6700k that I tried to use super glue on (because I was impatient and didn't want to wait to buy RTV). The super glue actually ATE THROUGH the PCB substrate of the CPU and exposed some traces and ended up killing one of the memory channels of the chip, and eventually the whole thing. There may be safer kinds of super glue (like the gel kind) but my advice is to pick up red RTV (high temp) gasket maker. It's cheap, holds firm, and removes even easier than the stock Intel sealant should you ever want to delid / relid again at any point in the future.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-811...words=permatex+red+rtv+high+temp+gasket+maker

$6 and change for a huge tube of it, more than you'll ever use. It really is the perfect stuff for re-lidding.

Looks like I got unlucky. 8700k on msi z370 gaming m5. I got 4.8 stable at 1.27 volts. Can't get 4.9 or 5.0 stable. Even tried up to 1.38 volts. Temps are looking good on a d15 cooler. Max i see at 4.8 with no avx offset I hit 76C. Don't think delidding is going to help me any.

Yeah, my 8700k is pretty much the same way. No magical 5ghz for me...

I just bought a 8700k

I haven't even started to OC it yet. are the performance gains while Overclocking really that big or no?

Bootes said:

I just bought a 8700k

I haven't even started to OC it yet. are the performance gains while Overclocking really that big or no?

Click to expand...

Probably not enough to notice. If I wasn't aiming for bragging rights I'd just turn on MCE and have the CPU boost all cores to their maximum turbo speed (4.7ghz in the case of the 8700k) and leave it at that.

Hakaba said:

I don't think the direct to die cooling offered that much more of a benefit, also without a shim/spacer you would run the chance of crushing the die if you placed the heat sink wrong or over tighten it.

Also you have to see if the Liquid Metal you are using is reactive to metal on the heat sink. I see that it says its safe to use on copper/nickel but not aluminium, it would cause corrosion and failure of the aluminum heat sink. Google it again and make sure before you take my word, not sure if I have the right Cool Labs product.

But if I am looking at the right product, I would not use Liquid Pro and directly attach the Be Quite heat sink to it.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. It's Cool Laboratory Pro I'm using between chip and IHS (and not ultra) but I have arctic silver available for IHS to heatsink and will use that instead. I don't think there's any chance at all that I will put the heatsink directly onto the CPU.

SirMaster said:

They make different kinds of superglue. For example you can get a kind that is dissolved by acetone.

I used a Loctite formula that can be dissolved by acetone. I just put a tiny dab in each corner of the IHS when re-lidding and it's worked great.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip. I'm using a de8auer device and this includes a shim which allows you to refix accurately but the glue versions of relidding guides I have seen suggests placing a small blob of glue outside the IHS and not underneath, which might inadvertently result in gluing the shim!

I have found this;
https://www.granvilleoil.com/techData/pdfTechData?ptdID=134

It's shown as 'RTV' and has an operating temperature up to 200cbut it says it is acetoxy cure which is possibly an issue in this application. It may affect the PCB.

Buttoneer said:

Thanks for the reply. It's Cool Laboratory Pro I'm using between chip and IHS (and not ultra) but I have arctic silver available for IHS to heatsink and will use that instead. I don't think there's any chance at all that I will put the heatsink directly onto the CPU.


Thanks for the tip. I'm using a de8auer device and this includes a shim which allows you to refix accurately but the glue versions of relidding guides I have seen suggests placing a small blob of glue outside the IHS and not underneath, which might inadvertently result in gluing the shim!

I have found this;
https://www.granvilleoil.com/techData/pdfTechData?ptdID=134

It's shown as 'RTV' and has an operating temperature up to 200cbut it says it is acetoxy cure which is possibly an issue in this application. It may affect the PCB.

Click to expand...

I have used Red RTV for a good while now. Black works fine too. I just use the red because it is easier to see when working with it. Maybe Liquid Nails is more your speed. While I have not witnessed it myself, I have heard reports of folks saying that "super glue" has eaten into the substrate on CPUs.

Buttoneer said:

I believe you, but I'm having trouble trying to translate products that you're referring to into something readily available in the UK. You're saying Permatex RTV and I'm finding Permatex 82180 and since we're talking about a £300 piece of silicon I'm nervous about putting any old thing on the chip.

I mean, Mars Climate Orbiter was screwed because of a mix up between imperial and metric measurements, and my CPU is much more important than that.

Click to expand...

Permatex 82180 will actually work perfectly.

Or Permatex 81160 (The "Red RTV" we are speaking of)

Buttoneer said:

Thanks - Liquid nails sounds even more scary!

Click to expand...

I was being sarcastic. DO NOT USE LIQUID NAILS.

Oh God too late!

Bootes said:

So using superglue will or COULD eat into the board.

RTV wont cause any heat increase will it, and do I need to "seal" the whole spreader or can i just do like a 4 corner type set up of RTV?

Click to expand...

My suggestion is to run the seal all the way around the edge, it holds better that way and keeps the substrate from bending and impact the Z height. A lot of people do not take that into consideration when relidding. Also leave a small gap on one area to allow for expansion of gasses under the IHS. Watch the end of the Rockitt 88 review that is on the front page. I do the entire process there for you to see.

Bootes said:

So using superglue will or COULD eat into the board.

RTV wont cause any heat increase will it, and do I need to "seal" the whole spreader or can i just do like a 4 corner type set up of RTV?

Click to expand...

Using Black RTV here. When applying RTV I left a small gap on the side, no to the temp increase, also my 7700K has been running for a year now with no issues.

I have not reapplied LM, RTV, or thermal paste since I put everything back together.

I've managed to order some Permatex 82180 from a UK based company which specialises in US auto parts. Taking a look around I think there are probably other substances which will do the job but the main difference will be whether your alternative product is acetoxyl or neutral cure. The former releases a potentially corrosive substance as it cures - acetic acid - and although it's not clear to be whether this will cause an issue on the PCB I'd rather not be the person to experiment.

It would be a really useful resource to list somewhere all of the possible options. UHU 46735 is another option but at twice the price of the Permatex, and I came across a couple of items which I thought might do the trick in an electrical wholesaler. This was being sold specifically for use with PCB's so assumed that whether is was neutral or acetoxyl it would be OK.

In terms of application, I'm taking from the discussion above that I form a c-shaped seal between IHS and PCH with the permatex but that with glue I'd use blobs on the outside.

Thanks all for your help. I'll be back with praise and 'likes' or curses and recriminations once I've attempted the job!

Also make sure you have work work surface covered or a place to put the LM applicators... That stuff is messy and it gets everywhere if you let it.

Buttoneer said:

I've managed to order some Permatex 82180 from a UK based company which specialises in US auto parts. Taking a look around I think there are probably other substances which will do the job but the main difference will be whether your alternative product is acetoxyl or neutral cure. The former releases a potentially corrosive substance as it cures - acetic acid - and although it's not clear to be whether this will cause an issue on the PCB I'd rather not be the person to experiment.

It would be a really useful resource to list somewhere all of the possible options. UHU 46735 is another option but at twice the price of the Permatex, and I came across a couple of items which I thought might do the trick in an electrical wholesaler. This was being sold specifically for use with PCB's so assumed that whether is was neutral or acetoxyl it would be OK.

In terms of application, I'm taking from the discussion above that I form a c-shaped seal between IHS and PCH with the permatex but that with glue I'd use blobs on the outside.

Thanks all for your help. I'll be back with praise and 'likes' or curses and recriminations once I've attempted the job!

Click to expand...

I think (lol) you're overthinking this way too much.

I mean, surely over there you guys have auto-parts shops, right? Walk in, find a tube of 'gasket maker', walk out. Anything like that will work just dandy.

Super Glue = NO! BAD! (in my experience, again - others might say different)
Liquid Nails = NO NO!
JB Weld = YOU'RE GOING TO HELL

Silicone gasket maker (what some of us call RTV) = fantastic
Window or aquarium silicone = It would probably work decent
kitchen / bath caulk = ugly but it would probably work fine
liquid electrical tape = should work just fine

Basically anything that has a somewhat adhesive property when it dries, but isn't considered permanent. Something that, if you choose to delid again in the future, it will come free with the delidding tool and remnants can be easily scraped off with a plastic spudger / credit card (similar to the stock Intel stuff).

There are probably a host of other household products common to both of our countries that would work that we aren't even thinking of.



As for application. A C or G shaped line around the raised perimeter of the underside of the IHS. The important thing is to leave about a 1/2" gap in the line (~12mm) as an 'air gap'. You'll notice that Intel does the same thing. The reason for this is so that you don't completely seal the IHS to the PCB. If you completely sealed it the first time you put your CPU under load and the sealed pocket of air got hot and expanded, it could literally pop the IHS off the PCB substrate. Watch Kyle's videos for a demonstration on said application method.

You'll be fine.


Oh, and in preparation for the event it's imperative that you drink at least seven cups of coffee. Steady hands and all... ROFL.

Damn this is turning to a money sink! I stayed clear from PC building for about 8-9 years but now.....

On top of my i9-7940X in order to get the best of it I also need:

1) Rockit-99 shipped from the US to Europe (about 70-80 EUR)
2) Liquid Electrical Tape 20-25 EUR
3) New Permatex (already have one) RTV this time about 15 EUR

All this in order to cool the CPU (& GPU) AND VOID my warranty at the same time - fantastic but I'll go for it.
I was thinking of not deliding at first but I simply can't resist the urge right now.

I keep making new shopping baskets left & right all over various e-shops and the packages keep coming.

JargonGR said:

2) Liquid Electrical Tape 20-25 EUR

Click to expand...

Why, if you don't mind my asking?

NoxTek said:

Why, if you don't mind my asking?

Click to expand...

Supposedly you need to insulate the small capacitors around the CPU die to be safe from any liquid metal pouring there and causing a sort (viscosity of liquid goes down due to heat). I am talking about HCC i9 CPUS (7940-7980) where there are capacitors really close to the cpu die.

Yes you could use nail polish but I don't want to find out how this behaves at higher than its intended use temperatures. So in the grand scheme of things liquid tape seems the appropriate material for the job. I can use it for other jobs too once I get it of course. I also have several rolls of Kapton masking tape that I could use but liquid tape seems more appropriate.

I will have to look into this further but if anyone has some experience would like to hear back.

JargonGR said:

Supposedly you need to insulate the small capacitors around the CPU die to be safe from any liquid metal pouring there and causing a sort (viscosity of liquid goes down due to heat). I am talking about HCC i9 CPUS (7940-7980) where there are capacitors really close to the cpu die.

Yes you could use nail polish but I don't want to find out how this behaves at higher than its intended use temperatures. So in the grand scheme of things liquid tape seems the appropriate material for the job. I can use it for other jobs too once I get it of course. I also have several rolls of Kapton masking tape that I could use but liquid tape seems more appropriate.

I will have to look into this further but if anyone has some experience would like to hear back.

Click to expand...

I see...

You could probably use the Permatex for that purpose as well, similar to how many of us use it to protect / insulate the small group of exposed contacts under the IHS on the LGA1151 chips.

NoxTek said:

I think (lol) you're overthinking this way too much.

I mean, surely over there you guys have auto-parts shops, right? Walk in, find a tube of 'gasket maker', walk out. Anything like that will work just dandy.

Click to expand...

I think you're right, I am! But when I'm voiding the warranty on a £300 piece of silicon I wan to be sure. It's pretty counterintuitive to be walking into an auto spares shop to buy something for something made from millions of 12nm transistors.

NoxTek said:

Super Glue = NO! BAD! (in my experience, again - others might say different)
Liquid Nails = NO NO!
JB Weld = YOU'RE GOING TO HELL

Silicone gasket maker (what some of us call RTV) = fantastic
Window or aquarium silicone = It would probably work decent
kitchen / bath caulk = ugly but it would probably work fine
liquid electrical tape = should work just fine

Basically anything that has a somewhat adhesive property when it dries, but isn't considered permanent. Something that, if you choose to delid again in the future, it will come free with the delidding tool and remnants can be easily scraped off with a plastic spudger / credit card (similar to the stock Intel stuff).

There are probably a host of other household products common to both of our countries that would work that we aren't even thinking of.

Click to expand...

^^This is super helpful.

As I said, it's about the particular physical properties and the way it cures. So we can't use something which exudes acid, it must withstand at least 100c heat, shouldn't use something which expands as it heats, and definitely don't want something which might tear the chip apart when relidding. I think there are a small subset of adhesives which fulfil all of those requirements and I may even have something already laying around. I certainly have five huge tubes of bathroom caulk in different colours which might have been usable, but happy to purchase the Permatex since it's a tried and tested substance.

A great list though, and should probably be pinned!

JargonGR said:

Damn this is turning to a money sink! I stayed clear from PC building for about 8-9 years but now.....

On top of my i9-7940X in order to get the best of it I also need:

1) Rockit-99 shipped from the US to Europe (about 70-80 EUR)
2) Liquid Electrical Tape 20-25 EUR
3) New Permatex (already have one) RTV this time about 15 EUR

All this in order to cool the CPU (& GPU) AND VOID my warranty at the same time - fantastic but I'll go for it.
I was thinking of not deliding at first but I simply can't resist the urge right now.

I keep making new shopping baskets left & right all over various e-shops and the packages keep coming.

Click to expand...

The de8auer tool is under €30, permatex around €12, and think NoxTek is right about the permatex doing the same job as your electrical tape. The electrical tape is probably a good substance for the adhesive too if you want to drop the Permatex. I looked at a few and they seem to mostly be neutral cure and high temperature operation so seem to fit the bill.

Buttoneer said:

The de8auer tool is under €30, permatex around €12, and think NoxTek is right about the permatex doing the same job as your electrical tape. The electrical tape is probably a good substance for the adhesive too if you want to drop the Permatex. I looked at a few and they seem to mostly be neutral cure and high temperature operation so seem to fit the bill.

Click to expand...

I have an i9-7940X and the de8auer tool for that is €90 + shipping so the Rockit 99 is still cheaper although it will take longer and in the end if I pay duties and importation fees it might get even more expensive.

The Permatex RTV I listed as 15 but I will see which one of all I will get. I already have Permatex black silicon adhesive (high temp) I meant the RTV type that is more suited for gaskets.
As you say, I don't wont to test / trial or risk using not the ideal material for each use case especially with a chip that costs €1300. Even the liquid tape won't go to waste - I'll use it elsewhere too.

My whole point has to do with the fact that this hobby can easily turn to a money sink - I constantly buy stuff from the moment I got back to it. Yet, my wife needs a PC, the kids need their own PCs - too much damn hardware in the ordering pipeline lol!

Still, you can recoup most of the cost of the tool by selling it on - it's going to be in mint condition. I certainly intend to.

I don't disagree that it becomes a money sink - Delidding requires liquid metal in addition to the thermal paste, I'm looking at custom cables and a few anodised coloured screws etc and each time my eye gets caught by something it costs a few £ here and a few £ there. It all adds up.

Well I'll think about selling it or maybe mod it to a nut cracker connected to a motor! LOL!

Ah custom cables! I got a Corsair AX1500i and was feeling great with it until I came across all the latest builds using custom sleeved cables or else one should be "ashamed"!LOL! Anyway, I am stocking on premium fans right now and since the RGB ones suck performance wise I am getting some Phanteks Halos to test out since they sync with my motherboard too.

I had bought a Coolermaster Cosmos II 2-3 years ago and it was never used so I decided to mod it and build my new PC in it. As a result I ended up spending more on mods. (I.e. Modding the Front Panel to USB 3.0 + USB Type C ports, Adding more Airflow to the front, making some plexi shroud for the hot swap caddies, etc, etc...). I have not even begun with custom painting yet.

None of the above is compulsory especially delidding and modding my case but its fun and I am doing everything with my 10 year old boy next to me having a great time...
I am just realizing that I could get even more hardware with the amount of money I am spending here especially considering the custom waterloop too.

JargonGR said:

Supposedly you need to insulate the small capacitors around the CPU die to be safe from any liquid metal pouring there and causing a sort (viscosity of liquid goes down due to heat). I am talking about HCC i9 CPUS (7940-7980) where there are capacitors really close to the cpu die.

Yes you could use nail polish but I don't want to find out how this behaves at higher than its intended use temperatures. So in the grand scheme of things liquid tape seems the appropriate material for the job. I can use it for other jobs too once I get it of course. I also have several rolls of Kapton masking tape that I could use but liquid tape seems more appropriate.

I will have to look into this further but if anyone has some experience would like to hear back.

Click to expand...

Oh gosh... My advice would be to use non-electrically conductive TIM like Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut. I delidded my 7940x around Christmas time and put on some Kryonaut and temps have been very good. I used the Rockit tool and can say that using that tool for delidding (and relidding) makes the process so easy that it's dumb. I too was a bit terrified to delid a $1,400 chip, but I've had great results (and no regrets). For relidding, I used small dabs of super glue (gel type) in the four corners and RTV around the square (overlapping where previous seal was broken).

jlobue10 said:

Oh gosh... My advice would be to use non-electrically conductive TIM like Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut. I delidded my 7940x around Christmas time and put on some Kryonaut and temps have been very good. I used the Rockit tool and can say that using that tool for delidding (and relidding) makes the process so easy that it's dumb. I too was a bit terrified to delid a $1,400 chip, but I've had great results (and no regrets). For relidding, I used small dabs of super glue (gel type) in the four corners and RTV around the square (overlapping where previous seal was broken).

Click to expand...

Since we have the same CPU and M/B (cleaning watercool parts now & building) have you overclocked it? Are you using the EK Monoblock?

JargonGR said:

Since we have the same CPU and M/B (cleaning watercool parts now & building) have you overclocked it? Are you using the EK Monoblock?

Click to expand...

Honestly, this beast 7940x is so good, I've just been running an XMP profile and then dialing the RAM back to 3,800 MHz. When you enable the XMP mode on R6E, you're asked about performance mode (or something like that), which I enabled. Of course, I could probably get a good overclock if I wanted, but it's so unnecessary for what I'm doing. Mostly gaming and some work from home (at times). Under normal use the processor barely cracks 40 degrees C and while gaming it's comfortably around 60 degrees C (if that high). I did some prime95 and other stress tests early on and saw temps in the 80 degree C range after a while, but it's been a while since I did any of that and can't remember exactly. I am happy with the system speed and stability.

I know it's sacrilegious to not overclock the crap out of this processor on this forum, but I honestly don't see the need. I built this system for quality and to last a long time, and I am very satisfied with my purchase. Also, custom water loops have not been something I've been interested in doing for a long time (more effort than I'd like to spend). This 7940x is using a Thermaltake 360mm aio for cooling.

I will run the 7940X first without delidding but I went for a strong custom waterloop anyway with a big 9X140mm Radiator + ML140 Pro Fans (will add a second MO-RA3 420 RAD too for lower noise).

I just want to set-up everything properly & test first then make an image of it and start working towards overclocking.

Longevity is not something that worries me since if done properly overclocking won't kill your CPU and by properly I mean not overdoing it voltage wise. I have a Q9550 @ 3.4GHZ running great for the last 10 years although it could go a bit higher.

Oh yes, I agree entirely. Overclock correctly and you will not shorten the life of the chip. The point I was trying to make is that for my use, it's destroying everything I throw at it without overclocking it. It's an amazing chip!

So I just finished mine. Cool Laboratory Pro for the liquid metal and Permatex 82180 for the glue. Two things really stood out for me during the process;

1. I cannot overstate too much how far the liquid metal goes. A tiny amount goes a very long way. I masked using blue masking tape, and ended up ‘painting’ an area around three times the size of the die using what I thought was an incredibly modest amount of liquid. It also comes out of the nozzle at a very fast rate so don’t apply to the cpu first, do it somewhere harmless to get a feel for it.
2. I used a cocktail stick to apply the silicone and again used tiny amounts to good effect. I suspect that I could delid every processor owned by the users of this forum and still not run out of either liquid.

Overall painless experience. I’ll not get my case until Wednesday evening so unlikely to be able to test this for some time when the build is done.

I guess I am going to try and delid once I order in everything for it. Running an MSI z370 M5 board and 16gigs corsair 3600. Using a nh-d15 cooler. Anyone else air cooling and what voltage?