New PC build, last one was in 2011, any help appreciated

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Nov 24, 2017
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Hello everyone

I am building a new PC after almost 7 years on my current build. A lot has changed! I primarily use it for gaming on a 1440p monitor (I have upgraded my video card since 2010, currently using a GTX 980). No budget really, just want a solid system that will last me another 7-8 years. Here is what I was thinking, any feedback is appreciated. I am not interested in water cooling or SLI.

Thank you,

PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ZyHnZ8
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ZyHnZ8/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor ($414.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($88.95 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus - ROG MAXIMUS X HERO (WI-FI AC) ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($281.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($249.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($469.14 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB FTW3 GAMING iCX Video Card ($804.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair - 750D ATX Full Tower Case ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($127.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus - BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer ($54.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($139.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $2732.97
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-11-24 19:45 EST-0500
 
If you don't plan on overclocking the processor heavily -- do you? -- you can save some money by "downgrading" the RAM and the motherboard. For example, a cheaper board like the Gigabyte Z370 AORUS Gaming 5 has most of the same features as the more expensive Asus ROG Maximus X Hero, including onboard 802.11ac wireless. But if you were to buy the Gigabyte board today, you'd spend nearly $100 less than the Asus board.

Along the same lines, you can find some G.Skill RAM at DDR4-3000 speeds for under $200. (The set that I linked to is on sale for around $170.) And if you don't plan on overclocking, you can grab some DDR4-2400 RAM for even less. (Yes, that will work with Z370.)

Unless you're a serious movie buff, I believe that it's unnecessary for you to have, much less buy a Blu-ray drive for your computer. If you buy an OEM version of the drive, then you'll need to buy some media playback software separately. (These days, at least in the U.S., PowerDVD is the only game in town.) If you need an optical drive these days, I recommend a portable USB-powered DVD burner.
 
Hello everyone

I am building a new PC after almost 7 years on my current build. A lot has changed! I primarily use it for gaming on a 1440p monitor (I have upgraded my video card since 2010, currently using a GTX 980). No budget really, just want a solid system that will last me another 7-8 years. Here is what I was thinking, any feedback is appreciated. I am not interested in water cooling or SLI.

Thank you,

PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ZyHnZ8
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ZyHnZ8/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor ($414.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($88.95 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus - ROG MAXIMUS X HERO (WI-FI AC) ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($281.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($249.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($469.14 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB FTW3 GAMING iCX Video Card ($804.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair - 750D ATX Full Tower Case ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($127.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus - BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer ($54.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($139.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $2732.97
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-11-24 19:45 EST-0500

What I would change in your list would be
1. Thermaltake View 71 Tempered Glass or x71
2. get 32gb of ram
3. Corsair HX850i PSU
4. Window 10 Retail USB
GTX 1080 TI is better at 4k not at 1440p but that's your choice
The DDR4 -3600 will not run at that speed My ram is the same but it run only at 2666 blame Intel for this if I want it to run at max speed I will need to use XMP,
 
Hi guys

Thanks for the input. I am going to ditch the blu-ray player get a USB version of windows 10 as suggested (I didn't even know that was a thing). I just found this https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=20-232-091, 32gb of ram for only $299 for the next 6 hours, which seems like a good deal, so I think I am going to go with that (also is a lower speed). I have a thing for ASUS mobos because I have never had one fail on me, so plan to stick with that brand, but may look at a couple of different models. I have done some very simple OCing in the past and may do some here, but I am no enthusiast.
 
I am going to ditch the blu-ray player get a USB version of windows 10 as suggested (I didn't even know that was a thing).
The retail versions of Windows 10 (non-Pro and Pro) come with a USB flash drive (instead of a DVD), but they cost more than their OEM counterparts.

If you decide to stick with the OEM version, there are also many guides online that show you how to install the Windows ISO onto a flash drive you already owned. Microsoft even has a "tool" that helps you with the process.

Having said all of that, the main advantage of a retail license is that you can reuse it on different computers (with the caveats that you can only use one computer at a time and you must remove the license for all other computers you aren't using), so if you like to upgrade computers often, you may find a retail license worthwhile.

I just found this https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=20-232-091, 32gb of ram for only $299 for the next 6 hours, which seems like a good deal, so I think I am going to go with that (also is a lower speed).
Damn. I may need to jump on that deal.

Oh, you'll be fine at that speed, whether you're overclocking or running everything at stock.

I have a thing for ASUS mobos because I have never had one fail on me, so plan to stick with that brand, but may look at a couple of different models. I have done some very simple OCing in the past and may do some here, but I am no enthusiast.
I have two alternatives from Asus:

If you want a Maximus X Hero-lite board, choose the ROG Strix Z370-E Gaming.

If you want a cheap-ish board, choose the TUF Z370 Pro Gaming.

If you want to overclock, the ROG Strix Z370-E Gaming is the better option.
 
One caveat, though this may end up being "do as I say, not as I do"....

You don't need 32GB for gaming. No, really, you don't need it.

More memory would help you for content creation (or, in other words, 3D graphics or video editing), but gaming is still largely a GPU-centric task, especially at greater resolutions (beyond 1920x1200).

If you need to save some money, or you don't want to spend more than you need -- and "need" is a highly subjective word when it comes to computer systems -- the easiest way is to reduce the amount of RAM from 32GB to 16GB.

But this "advice" is coming from a guy with 32GB in his signature, so take my advice for what it's worth to you.
 
Thank you all for your thoughts. I finished ordering everything today, here is what I ended up with - about $2600 all in:

CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-D15S 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus - ROG MAXIMUS X HERO (WI-FI AC) ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory 14-14-14-34
Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive
Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive
Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB STRIX OC GAMING Video Card
Case: Corsair - Carbide 400C ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/PPptwV

I don't have a G-Sync monitor. Depending on what how much money I have after Christmas I may check that out. I am currently using this, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ITORMNM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1, which I got a great deal on in 2015 (I don't do photo editing but just couldn't pass up the price at the time). I am very happy with it overall, not sure if G-Sync is really necessary as I don't play a lot of FPS games.
 
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