New Pc , comments welcome

DIYPC Skyline-07-G Black / Green Gaming USB 3.0 Computer Case w/ 7 x 120mm Green fans
Item #:N82E16811353027

ASUS ROG STRIX Z270E GAMING LGA1151 DDR4 DP HDMI DVI M.2 ATX Motherboard with Onboard AC Wi-Fi and USB 3.1
Item #:N82E16813132928

EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 SC GAMING ACX 3.0 Black Edition, 08G-P4-5173-KR, 8GB GDDR5, LED, DX12 OSD Support (PXOC)
Item #:N82E16814487265

LG Electronics 14x SATA Blu-ray Internal Rewriter without Software, Black Model WH14NS40 - OEM
Item #:N82E16827136250

EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 P2 220-P2-1000-XR 80+ PLATINUM 1000W Fully Modular EVGA ECO Mode Includes FREE Power On Self Tester Power Supply
Item #:N82E16817438013

Windows 10 Home - 64-bit - OEM
Item #:N82E16832416892

ASUS 24X DVD Burner - Bulk Black SATA Model DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS OEM
Item #:N82E16827135204

G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600) Desktop Memory Model F4-3200C16D-16GTZR
Item #:N82E16820232476

Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2 GHz LGA 1151 BX80677I77700K Desktop Processor
Item #:N82E16819117726

Intel 730 Series 2.5" 480GB SATA 6Gb/s MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) SSDSC2BP480G4R5
Form Factor: 2.5" Capacity: 480GB Memory Components: MLC
Item #:9SIA4RE5V03530

Forget the i7-7700k and go with the 8700k (+ compatible mainboard) instead. more cores/threads, faster (at turbo) and more cache. Also consider the i5-8600k, which keeps the 6 cores but skips hyperthreading and is a little slower.

No CPU cooler is listed, and IIRC the k-series CPUs don't include one. A good air-cooled tower, such as a Thermalright or Noctua, would be more than sufficient.

That PSU is huge overkill, and platinum/titanium units are rarely worth the markup. Look for something in the gold 500 W range. Seasonic is always a good choice.

RAM overclocking doesn't amount to much, so consider something a bit slower, such as DDR4-2666/3000 if it saves some money.

Can't say if the GTX-1070 is sufficient without knowing what kind of display it's going to be driving.

Why separate BluRay and DVD writers? Unless you already have the DVD writer or expect to be running it into the ground somehow I'd suggest skipping it and going with just the BluRay unit.

Live near a Microcenter? One near me actually has 7 8700K's in stock right now and 10 8600K's which is amazing so maybe stock is starting to get delivered in decent quantities and will start showing up at online sites soon.

8700K's go for good amount more than a 7700K though, $420. You can get a 7700K at MC for $280. As far as gaming, right now there really pretty much identical performance wise. Multi-threaded apps the extra cores and threads though are a huge boost. I'd say if you planned to keep the system for 1-2 years then a 8600K\7700K right now is probably fine. 3-5 years I'd go 8700K.

The GTX 1070 is a fine card, but I'd be looking at a 1070 ti at this point or just move up to a 1080. The prices are so close the extra performance from either is worthwhile.

Definitely tone down the psu. I'd go with a 600-650 gold.

The Intel 730 series is old over priced junk at this point. The new Optane 900P models are the current over priced drives.
Your much better off just going with Samsung. An 850 EVO 500GB for $160 is hard to beat. If you want to move up to a faster nvme the 960 EVO is very nice but your really talking about booting into Windows in 8 seconds vs 12 or something. Unless your using some with crazy disk access or moving tons of files between other drives that run at the same super high speeds you really won't notice much difference. But nice things are nice.

And yeah, optical drives are really dead at this point. Haven't had one in my last 2 or 3 primary systems and haven't missed having one at all. I do have other machines though with them if i have to have one. PC Blu-ray drives generally end up being more of a nuisance than they are useful.

BlueLineSwinger said:

RAM overclocking doesn't amount to much, so consider something a bit slower, such as DDR4-2666/3000 if it saves some money

Click to expand...

As a PUBG player, it's become evident that ram speed does matter. If there are more games where this matters, ram speed could start becoming (more) important.

If you don't take any other suggestion then you should at least go with a 1070 Ti. They're $30 - $40 more and a good bit more performance.

All, thank you. I will rework this. I am working in a 2k budget but may have some woggle room.

On the drives and GPU, I'll be using the system to link to my 47in Samsung TV for both gaming, general PC usage and movies (I still get discs from NetFlix). I will definitely look at the TI or higher GPU.

I plan to run games that are a few years old that refuse to function on my current system, like Dragon Age Inquisition, but I'm also interested in Morrowind Online, as examples.

I assume most games are now digital download, hence the comments on DVD drive?

I'll also look at the 8700 series CPU as this will be at least a 5 year machine, and thanks for catching that I missed a chip cooler.

Lastly, on the PSU, what is the rule on Watts, is it just enough to cover the GPU? Or, add 100 watts on top?

You still haven't indicated what resolution you'll be driving the display at. If it's simply 1080p, then you could probably get by with a GTX 1060 at medium to high quality settings in games. A 1070 allows you to move the quality sliders up and offers some breathing room. If you can find a good deal on a 1070ti go for it. On the other hand, If you're going to be running games at 4k then a 1080ti would probably be the minimum.

A separate DVD drive isn't needed for general usage because the blu-ray drive will handle it just fine.

For PSU sizing you can get a rough estimate by adding up the TDP of the CPU(s) and GPU(s), and throw in an additional 50 W or so (e.g., higher if overclocking) to account for the mainboard, drives, etc. Many sites will list total power draw for the system when doing GPU reviews, so that helps. To provide a real-world example, I don't believe I've ever seen my mildly overclocked i7-3770k + GTX-1070 system climb over 300 W when pushed. PSUs are generally most efficient at ~50-70% of their rated capacity, so there's no sense in buying, for example, a 1000 W unit if the system is only going to pull 100-200 W.

Version 2

G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3600 (PC4 28800) Desktop Memory Model F4-3600C17D-16GTZR
Item #:N82E16820232483

DIYPC Skyline-07-G Black / Green Gaming USB 3.0 Computer Case w/ 7 x 120mm Green fans
Item #:N82E16811353027

Noctua NH-U9S 92mm SSO2 U-Type Premium CPU Cooler, NF-A9 PWM Fans, Retail
Item #:N82E16835608067

MSI Z370 GAMING PRO CARBON LGA 1151 (300 Series) Intel Z370 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 ATX Intel Motherboard
Item #:N82E16813144107

ASUS ROG GeForce GTX 1070 Ti STRIX-GTX1070TI-A8G-GAMING Video Card
Item #:N82E16814126225

Seasonic FOCUS Plus Series SSR-650FX 650W 80+ Gold ATX12V & EPS12V Full Modular 120mm FDB Fan Compact 140mm Size Power Supply
Item #:N82E16817151186

Intel Core i7-8700 Coffee Lake 6-Core 3.2 GHz (4.6 GHz Turbo) LGA 1151 (300 Series) BX80684I78700 Desktop Processor Intel UHD Graphics 630
Item #:N82E16819117826

SAMSUNG 850 EVO 2.5" 500GB SATA III 3D NAND Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) MZ-75E500B/AM
Item #:N82E16820147373

Windows 10 Home - 64-bit - OEM
Item #:N82E16832416892

Not sure why you would buy a Noctua for an 8700. Either spend the extra for the unlocked K or stick with the stock cooler.

Yeah I would switch to a cheaper, 120mm tower cooler like one of the 212 coolers. They'll be quieter than the stock cooler and still provide better cooling as well.

Daleon said:

Not sure why you would buy a Noctua for an 8700. Either spend the extra for the unlocked K or stick with the stock cooler.

Click to expand...

And that particular Noctua is one of that company's weaker offerings, utilizing only 92mm fans. And all things being equal, the smaller-diameter fan must spin at higher RPMs just to achieve cooling ability that equals a given larger-diameter fan. And in most cases, the smaller fan will be louder than the larger fan for any given level of cooling performance.

By the way, I cannot recommend the Hyper 212 series, either: It is now behind the times, with one of the worst stock fans of any 120mm cooler available today. The only reason it gets recommended here is that it's cheap relative to other 120mm coolers. But upgrading the lousy stock fan with a better one would have made the Hyper 212 almost as expensive as a 120mm Noctua cooler, and would have still underperformed it.

If gaming is one of the major goals, there's no reason not to spend a bit more and go for the 1070TI. The CPU for these cases is splitting hairs compared to the GPU power. I would never consider a 1060 with a 2K budget and one of the goals be gaming. Even at only 1080P. A 1060 will struggle with games in a couple years at 1080P.

Well the stock fan is still far superior than the stock Intel fan and the OP isn't overclocking therefore it's still a lot better than the stock cooler in cooling as well. No point in spending extra money for a better than 212 fan or better than 212 cooling when the OP just needs a stock replacement that's quieter which the 212 will do easily.

FlawleZ the OP updated his build in post number 8 that includes the 1070Ti.

Thank you all. I will upgrade the fan. Looks like I have my build. Appreciate the advice and insights.