NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

When I delidded my 4790K, I used Noctua NT-H1 as the TIM and reinstalled it with out relidding the IHS. It was placed on top of the die and held in place by the socket lid. No adhesive was applied. Initially, my temperatures were much lower, but very quickly they began to rise towards their pre-delidding values. I plan to redo the TIM (this time with Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut - a liquid metal TIM) and relid the IHS.

Your idea to use the socket to relid the IHS is clever. Will you wait for the adhesive in the corners to cure (24 hours) before installing the CPU cooler? The only worry I would have is that the excess adhesive might spread and get into the socket mechanisms.
I don't plan to use much in the corners, just a dab. I'll probably let it cure overnight and attach the cooler in the morning. Maybe later depending on how installing the Arctic Accelero goes.

The reason your temps rose was probably more attributed to squeeze out rather than relidding. From what I've read regular thermal paste shouldn't be used as they all squeeze out over time.
 
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Success!

ZefvAKG_d.jpg


Going to use liquid ultra and see what temp drops
Before putting CLU on the die, you better apply some nail polish on the lil capacitors on the left of the die to prevent any shorts due to CLU.
What works even better is covering them with liquid electrical tape.

When I delidded my 4790K, I used Noctua NT-H1 as the TIM and reinstalled it with out relidding the IHS. It was placed on top of the die and held in place by the socket lid. No adhesive was applied. Initially, my temperatures were much lower, but very quickly they began to rise towards their pre-delidding values. I plan to redo the TIM (this time with Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut - a liquid metal TIM) and relid the IHS.
My 3570k Ivy Bridge is still showing low T° 3-4 (5?) years after delidding. I didn't relid it but I have used CLP on the die/IHS as well as on IHS/NH-C14, so maybe the NT-H1 TIM is to blame as @ptirmal says, dunno...

Your idea to use the socket to relid the IHS is clever. Will you wait for the adhesive in the corners to cure (24 hours) before installing the CPU cooler? The only worry I would have is that the excess adhesive might spread and get into the socket mechanisms.
I just delidded the 6700K of my NCASE M1 and with the top tubing preventing me from removing fully the 240mm rad/fans setup from the case
yUv47p0l.jpg
ujSj1V3l.jpg

I found easier to put the CPU back into the socket with the mobo in a vertical position. But obviously that obliged me to relid the CPU this time, so I just put a lil drop of liquid electrical tape on the IHS four corners before putting it back on the PCB and then let them overnight in a clamping pliers.

Delidding devices actually scare me - I've felt more comfortable and in control with some patience and a sharp razor blade.
The tool @ptirmal used, the one designed by @Chri from what I see, is very safe.
That's what I used with my 6700K and the Skylake's thin PCB didn't suffer at all.

That cracking noise wakes me up at night in cold sweats....
There is no cracking noise if you go slowly and wait ~1min each time you tighten the vice, letting time to the Intel silicon to stretch itself.
At last, after the last 'turn' on the vice, while waiting you will hear a little sound telling you the silicon has finally let go the PCB.
As advised, you should also put some foam inside the delid tool to prevent the PCB to hit it when released. But again if you go slowly and wait that's not really needed.
 
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The ASRock X299 ITX board is finally out. Not that I'm interested in doing a custom water loop with it, but if you were to embark on such an undertaking, using this positively badass CPU/VRM block:

Y0CMyPq.jpg


what would your options be for pump placement? If you used a side bracket rad, would there be room for a pump anywhere in the case? Any pump small enough to fit under the graphics card or be attached to the back of the PSU? Or would you have to go external pump/res combo.
 
Before putting CLU on the die, you better apply some nail polish on the lil capacitors on the left of the die to prevent any shorts due to CLU.
What works even better is covering them with liquid electrical tape.


My 3570k Ivy Bridge is still showing low T° 3-4 (5?) years after delidding. I didn't relid it but I have used CLP on the die/IHS as well as on IHS/NH-C14, so maybe the NT-H1 TIM is to blame as @ptirmal says, dunno...


I just delidded the 6700K of my NCASE M1 and with the top tubing preventing me from removing fully the 240mm rad/fans setup from the case
yUv47p0l.jpg
ujSj1V3l.jpg

I found easier to put the CPU back into the socket with the mobo in a vertical position. But obviously that obliged me to relid the CPU this time, so I just put a lil drop of liquid electrical tape on the IHS four corners before putting it back on the PCB and then let them overnight in a clamping pliers.


The tool @ptirmal used, the one designed by @Chri from what I see, is very safe.
That's what I used with my 6700K and the Skylake's thin PCB didn't suffer at all.


There is no cracking noise if you go slowly and wait ~1min each time you tighten the vice, letting time to the Intel silicon to stretch itself.
At last, after the last 'turn' on the vice, while waiting you will hear a little sound telling you the silicon has finally let go the PCB.
As advised, you should also put some foam inside the delid tool to prevent the PCB to hit it when released. But again if you go slowly and wait that's not really needed.

And this reservoir? model? is custom?

MORE PICS PLEASE! awesome build dude.
 
i miss that the watercooler cool the m2 SSD too. and the mobo chipset is longer time air cool, would be better this where watercooled too but on this position it is a little bit difficult :D
 
Received my Arctic Accelero III from an eBay seller listed as new without thermal adhesive and some bent fins. Contacted them to see what they say but wanted to how they look to you guys. Can I just bend these back?

My clu didn't arrive today either, great series of events...

ZZsu5PC_d.jpg


9izvODw.jpg


Edit: after looking this over I'm also missing heatsinks and insulation tape for the cooler. Guess it's going back... Great.
 
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Received my Arctic Accelero III from an eBay seller listed as new without thermal adhesive and some bent fins. Contacted them to see what they say but wanted to how they look to you guys. Can I just bend these back?

My clu didn't arrive today either, great series of events...

ZZsu5PC_d.jpg


9izvODw.jpg


Edit: after looking this over I'm also missing heatsinks and insulation tape for the cooler. Guess it's going back... Great.
That’s actually not too bad if the fins are still connected to the heat pipe. They can be carefully bent back. Whether you should return it depends on if you got a good price for this one. The fins do get beat up when I shoehorn my Accelero into the M1.
As for small VRM heatsinks, you can find them online quite easily. If you have a reference card (eg: 1070/1080) you could try the Gelid Icy Vison VRM heatsink that bolts into the graphics card mounting holes quite nicely.
 
The fins can be bent back and the cooler will definitely still work, but it would look ugly. This is serious damage, you should try to get a refund. There also seems to be some discoloration of the cold plate and where the heatpipes go into the cold plate. I don't think this is new. Ebay has a good policy where if you open a dispute with a seller, they have to address your issue or else Ebay gets involved. I only buy things from Ebay as a last resort. The Accelero is available on Amazon, so why not order from there.
 
That’s actually not too bad if the fins are still connected to the heat pipe. They can be carefully bent back. Whether you should return it depends on if you got a good price for this one. The fins do get beat up when I shoehorn my Accelero into the M1.
As for small VRM heatsinks, you can find them online quite easily. If you have a reference card (eg: 1070/1080) you could try the Gelid Icy Vison VRM heatsink that bolts into the graphics card mounting holes quite nicely.
I didn't get a good deal really, it was a big store seller and I assumed it would be new. I was able to get it for $10 off ($50) with my eBay bucks that I would have no use and a discounted eBay card I had. My current card is Asus blower. It has most of the heatsinks in this kit but I'm not sure how many I need until I take my blower card apart.
 
So, I did a lot of digging on this thread yesterday and found a few cable measurements I was happy with and also a couple that I'm a bit confused with and would love your opinion:
PSU: SF600
Mobo: Asus z270i ROG Strix
CPU cooler: Noctua U9S [dual fans]
GPU: EVGA 980Ti

24-pin: 250mm - Perfect

8-pin: Some say 350mm and other's 400mm. Which 1?

2x 6+2 pin: Depends if you want to go up top or below. I want to go below but it's not straight below as there are fans there. It's below & slightly to the right (https://cdn.pcpartpicker.com/static...630.92f1a9235b5c663563a444504a71ef07.256c.jpg). 250mm or 300mm?

Sata power [2 x 3.5" hdd + slim optical drive] - Apparently PSU - 1st sata = 100mm - 2nd sata 50mm ---- confused about length from the 2nd hdd to the front optical drive length.

Are there custom length sata to motherboard cables? If so, from where & what length for the 2 x 3.5" hdd to motherboard?

I do understand some people telling me I should do the measurements myself and see but to be frank I just don't have the time and need the PC built asap, I can't spend a week to wait for the cables to come in. Also, this forum/thread already has a-lot of information on it which is great and just need some of your brain power for a couple cable lengths.


Thanks!
 
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So, I did a lot of digging on this thread yesterday and found a few cable measurements I was happy with and also a couple that I'm a bit confused with and would love your opinion:
PSU: SF600
Mobo: Asus z270i ROG Strix
CPU cooler: Noctua U9S [dual fans]
GPU: EVGA 980Ti

24-pin: 250mm - Perfect

8-pin: Some say 350mm and other's 400mm. Which 1?

2x 6+2 pin: Depends if you want to go up top or below. I want to go below but it's not straight below as there are fans there. It's below & slightly to the right (https://cdn.pcpartpicker.com/static...630.92f1a9235b5c663563a444504a71ef07.256c.jpg). 250mm or 300mm?

Sata power [2 x 3.5" hdd + slim optical drive] - Apparently PSU - 1st sata = 100mm - 2nd sata 50mm ---- confused about length from the 2nd hdd to the front optical drive length.

Are there custom length sata to motherboard cables? If so, from where & what length for the 2 x 3.5" hdd to motherboard?

I do understand some people telling me I should do the measurements myself and see but to be frank I just don't have the time and need the PC built asap, I can't spend a week to wait for the cables to come in. Also, this forum/thread already has a-lot of information on it which is great and just need some of your brain power for a couple cable lengths.


Thanks!
If you have the motherboard and case already you could run some string, twine, or even an unused usb or ethernet cable to get the length, then lay it out straight and flat to measure.

Otherwise, hopefully someone with those components can help. Good luck!
 
I do understand some people telling me I should do the measurements myself and see but to be frank I just don't have the time
If you have the motherboard and case already you could run some string, twine, or even an unused usb or ethernet cable to get the length, then lay it out straight and flat to measure.

Otherwise, hopefully someone with those components can help. Good luck!
Yes, I agree with this: with the best will in the world, just get a bit of string and measure the lengths yourself. It'll take five minutes and you'll get numbers that you know are correct, rather than relying on someone with a similar (but perhaps non-identical) setup. Relatively minor things like the orientation of the PSU can make a big difference, for example, so even the exact same hardware configuration might not give you the right answers here.
 
Success!


Going to use liquid ultra and see what temp drops I'll see. Right now I'm hitting just under 70c while gaming and running Intel's stress test at 4.0GHz.

I am adding a Noctua NF-A15 PWM to replace the non PWM fan on my C12P se14 cooler, currently running the CPU fan at max speed.

Also will be installing my Arctic Accelero III with 2 x NF-F12 fans onto my GTX 1070.

Might be able to squeeze some more performance out of it, if nothing else, it'll be quieter and cooler!

Interested in following this - also have a 4770k on the Noctua C12P SE14!

Still rocking a GTX 780 with stock blower cooler though
 
Interested in following this - also have a 4770k on the Noctua C12P SE14!

Still rocking a GTX 780 with stock blower cooler though
Looks like my liquid ultra will likely be delivered Monday so stay posted. The c12 se14 was the biggest Noctua that would fit my board at the time (2013) because of the socket placement (Asrock z87e-itx), I just wish the fan was PWM as my board doesn't do voltage control.
 
Yes, I agree with this: with the best will in the world, just get a bit of string and measure the lengths yourself. It'll take five minutes and you'll get numbers that you know are correct, rather than relying on someone with a similar (but perhaps non-identical) setup. Relatively minor things like the orientation of the PSU can make a big difference, for example, so even the exact same hardware configuration might not give you the right answers here.
Yes, I agree with this: with the best will in the world, just get a bit of string and measure the lengths yourself. It'll take five minutes and you'll get numbers that you know are correct, rather than relying on someone with a similar (but perhaps non-identical) setup. Relatively minor things like the orientation of the PSU can make a big difference, for example, so even the exact same hardware configuration might not give you the right answers here.

The problem is I don't have the PSU mailed to me yet and I need the system up & running ASAP.
If I do all the measurements and stuff after receiving the PSU then I've got to wait a week for the other cables to come in.
I'd rather put the system together just once then twice.

Anyways, thanks for the input.
 
The problem is I don't have the PSU mailed to me yet and I need the system up & running ASAP.
If I do all the measurements and stuff after receiving the PSU then I've got to wait a week for the other cables to come in.
I'd rather put the system together just once then twice.

Anyways, thanks for the input.
You could look at the dimensions of the SF600 (tech specs) and measure to where the cables come out (based on how you plan to mount it), then measure from there.
Edit: you may want to add a cm or two extra to your final measurement depending on how far it is from the wall of the case where it plugs in to the psu and how you plan to route it.
 
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Hey guys, I've got this one lying around in my garage:
http://www.esaitech.com/panasonic-u...MIsJWqxL2D1wIVzZd-Ch1QcQSgEAAYASAAEgKrE_D_BwE

Panasonic UJ8C5 optical drive.

Will this work for the ncase m1?

1) You must press a button to get it to eject and there isn't any button at the top on the ncase m1.
2) It has a black front plastic thing but it's not a tray load type.


Q: Anyone know a good but cheap ncase m1 slim optical drive with cd/dvd read & re-write that would work 110% with the ncase m1 without a hiccup?
Pref it if available in Canada.

Q: Also, how long does it take for the aliexpress cables to arrive approx?

Thanks.
 
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Hey guys, I've got this one lying around in my garage:
http://www.esaitech.com/panasonic-u...MIsJWqxL2D1wIVzZd-Ch1QcQSgEAAYASAAEgKrE_D_BwE

Panasonic UJ8C5 optical drive.

Will this work for the ncase m1?

1) You must press a button to get it to eject and there isn't any button at the top on the ncase m1.
2) It has a black front plastic thing but it's not a tray load type.


Q: Anyone know a good but cheap ncase m1 slim optical drive with cd/dvd read & re-write that would work 110% with the ncase m1 without a hiccup?
Pref it if available in Canada.

Q: Also, how long does it take for the aliexpress cables to arrive approx?

Thanks.

I'm in the US and it took about 4 weeks to get my cables from AliExpress.
 
Looks like my liquid ultra will likely be delivered Monday so stay posted. The c12 se14 was the biggest Noctua that would fit my board at the time (2013) because of the socket placement (Asrock z87e-itx), I just wish the fan was PWM as my board doesn't do voltage control.

That upgraded Noctua fan should be nice!
 
I'm in the US and it took about 4 weeks to get my cables from AliExpress.
My AliExpress order went in 9/27 and according to tracking it should arrive next week, so about a month for US orders. However, the seller contacted me yesterday and said they shipped the wrong item and are resending the correct set of cables. Wonder what I’m going to get this week?

I’m not too concerned as I’m still waiting for a Coffee Lake 6-core cpu and I’ve had the M1 for about 9 months - a little longer won’t hurt I guess.
 
My AliExpress order went in 9/27 and according to tracking it should arrive next week, so about a month for US orders. However, the seller contacted me yesterday and said they shipped the wrong item and are resending the correct set of cables. Wonder what I’m going to get this week?

I’m not too concerned as I’m still waiting for a Coffee Lake 6-core cpu and I’ve had the M1 for about 9 months - a little longer won’t hurt I guess.

Yeah I'm curious what cables you will get, hopefully something you can use.
 
I'm in the US and it took about 4 weeks to get my cables from AliExpress.
My AliExpress order went in 9/27 and according to tracking it should arrive next week, so about a month for US orders. However, the seller contacted me yesterday and said they shipped the wrong item and are resending the correct set of cables. Wonder what I’m going to get this week?

I’m not too concerned as I’m still waiting for a Coffee Lake 6-core cpu and I’ve had the M1 for about 9 months - a little longer won’t hurt I guess.


Did you guys have to do some "verification" process for an account on aliexpress b showing a picture of your credit card to do them and stuff?
Also, is it possible you can pay for faster shipping to get it in 1-2 weeks in stead of a month?

Thanks.
 
Did you guys have to do some "verification" process for an account on aliexpress b showing a picture of your credit card to do them and stuff?
Also, is it possible you can pay for faster shipping to get it in 1-2 weeks in stead of a month?

Thanks.

I just input my CC information, there is expedited shipping but the price rises quickly.
 
Guys, I stumbled on this image:

X7CcXGA.jpg


It's an NF-A15 (140x150mm fan with 120mm mounting holes), mounted next to an NF-F12 on the M1's side bracket. To do this, the two fans have to be mounted as far apart as possible on the bracket. So this got me thinking... Would it be possible to do a 140mm + 120mm dual AIO? E.g. Kraken X42 + EVGA's Hybrid Kit. Or would the radiators be too close and not have enough clearance? You'd need an adapter plate to mount the 140mm AIO to the 120mm holes on the NF-A15. I think it would definitely be possible if you went push on one and pull on the other, but that wouldn't look great.

The other question is would it be worth it... A 140mm AIO gives you 36% more surface area, which is not negligible. But it would certainly make things even more crammed, which a dual AIO setup already is.
 
Guys, I stumbled on this image:

X7CcXGA.jpg


It's an NF-A15 (140x150mm fan with 120mm mounting holes), mounted next to an NF-F12 on the M1's side bracket. To do this, the two fans have to be mounted as far apart as possible on the bracket. So this got me thinking... Would it be possible to do a 140mm + 120mm dual AIO? E.g. Kraken X42 + EVGA's Hybrid Kit. Or would the radiators be too close and not have enough clearance? You'd need an adapter plate to mount the 140mm AIO to the 120mm holes on the NF-A15. I think it would definitely be possible if you went push on one and pull on the other, but that wouldn't look great.

The other question is would it be worth it... A 140mm AIO gives you 36% more surface area, which is not negligible. But it would certainly make things even more crammed, which a dual AIO setup already is.

The 140mm fan has 120mm mounting holes, but I don't think you will find a 140mm AIO with the same mounting holes. From what I have seen 2 X 120mm AIOs is very snug in the M1, I would think the 140mm would make it really tough/impossible.
 
Just eject disc by right clicking on the ODD icon in your OS.

Yeah currently that's the only way to eject that I'm aware of. Got to do it through the software as they say which really isnt a big deal. The Silverstone model is really a rebranded Panasonic unit.
 
The 140mm fan has 120mm mounting holes, but I don't think you will find a 140mm AIO with the same mounting holes. From what I have seen 2 X 120mm AIOs is very snug in the M1, I would think the 140mm would make it really tough/impossible.

You would use adapters or an adapter bracket, I have some from my Noctua C14. But yes, it would be really tight. I would like to see someone try though...
 
Any Canadian here who've been shopping somewhere recently and saw grey or dark grey zip ties?
I only see black and white one's everywhere I go.

Also, what slim optical drive do ya'll use on your Ncase M1's?

Let me know if you see any around.
Thanks!
 
Guys, I stumbled on this image:

X7CcXGA.jpg


It's an NF-A15 (140x150mm fan with 120mm mounting holes), mounted next to an NF-F12 on the M1's side bracket. To do this, the two fans have to be mounted as far apart as possible on the bracket. So this got me thinking... Would it be possible to do a 140mm + 120mm dual AIO? E.g. Kraken X42 + EVGA's Hybrid Kit. Or would the radiators be too close and not have enough clearance? You'd need an adapter plate to mount the 140mm AIO to the 120mm holes on the NF-A15. I think it would definitely be possible if you went push on one and pull on the other, but that wouldn't look great.

The other question is would it be worth it... A 140mm AIO gives you 36% more surface area, which is not negligible. But it would certainly make things even more crammed, which a dual AIO setup already is.
I’ve done that before with that same 140 fan on a 120 radiator, next to a second 120 radiator with a 120 fan. I think I had to somehow rig the fan onto the radiators. The radiators were screwed onto the bracket. I think a 140 radiator would be too tall or wide (for two fans).
 
Any Canadian here who've been shopping somewhere recently and saw grey or dark grey zip ties?
I only see black and white one's everywhere I go.

Also, what slim optical drive do ya'll use on your Ncase M1's?

Let me know if you see any around.
Thanks!
This is the one I use:
Silverstone 12.7mm SATA Interface Slot Load 6X Blu-Ray Writer with 8X CD/DVD RW Drive (SOB02)

I don’t use the drive anymore though. It’s in a different rig.
 
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Thanx!
The res is an Alphacool mini water tank, but has been discontinued because there is no baffle in it and its IN and OUT ports are aligned, which is not good to get rid of bubbles. I've found a solution for that though.

Some teasers, build log here: https://smallformfactor.net/forum/threads/black-copper-ncase-m1.1313/

uUqWNTtl.jpg


Hjj35JDl.jpg

That is a snug little build, well done. It is a shame you can't get the short PCB GPUs anymore with full waterblocks. Sure does open up some space on the side.
 
That is a snug little build, well done. It is a shame you can't get the short PCB GPUs anymore with full waterblocks. Sure does open up some space on the side.
Thanx!
Yep, I guess a short PCB GPU is almost the only to way to fit a D5 pump in there.
Maybe full blocks will be available again for next gen short GPUs...
 
That is a snug little build, well done. It is a shame you can't get the short PCB GPUs anymore with full waterblocks. Sure does open up some space on the side.

Thanx!
Yep, I guess a short PCB GPU is almost the only to way to fit a D5 pump in there.
Maybe full blocks will be available again for next gen short GPUs...

Only short PCB GPU I could see anyone making a dedicated full cover water block for would be the (rumored, but as yet released) RX Vega Nano...
 
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