XSPC RayStorm Neo Threadripper Waterblock Installed in Loop

FrgMstr

Just Plain Mean
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Now to just get another X399 motherboard on the test bench! I sent the Zenith Extreme to Dan to finish off the review.

Thought you guys might like to see how I go about changing blocks since I am too cheap to invest in a thousand bucks worth of dry-lock fittings (which actually work very well). One of the reasons we have stuck with Koolance system over the years is that the are easy to haul to the garage where you can make a mess and not get in trouble, or be around sensitive electronics. I use a clamp to pinch off the tubing, this way you lose very little fluid out of the system. Pull your block off. I use Teflon grease on the o-rings on the fittings and all the threads. Not a lot, just enough to put a sheen on the surfaces. Prefill the block you are installing till it overflows. Then you can bring your block and tubing back together quickly and get hardly any air in the system.

Check out the pics.

I have been doing it this way for years, and the less air you let in the better. And besides, that damn watercooling fluid is not cheap.

Video on the block unboxing....

 
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Looks nice with the metal bracket/arms. I have one of the first raystorm models in my x79 pc and yep, I broke off one of the acrylic arms over tightening it -_-
 
Can't wait to see the results. Kinda sad several other makers are opting for partial coverage.
 
Very happy to start seeing some real water blocks for this socket. Figured the closed loop coolers might not do the job. They give any indication on how far out the production models were?
 
When I was younger I ran a custom loop on my Athlon XP. It was freaking awesome but I always had to fiddle with it. My next 2 computers I went with a big ass Heatsink/Fan. AIO are so good now that I don't think I would ever go back to a custom loop even though I some times think about it
 
When I was younger I ran a custom loop on my Athlon XP. It was freaking awesome but I always had to fiddle with it.

Me too, I even had the PVC evaporation tower (Bong Cooler). I ran a custom loop all through college and many years afterward, but I did have to maintain it by adding coolant (distilled water and antifreeze). Now I just go for a massive air or AIO cooler. This new rigid tubing stuff for custom loops does look cool though!
 
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Me too, I even had the PVC evaporation tower (Bong Cooler). I ran a custom loop all through college and many years afterward, but I did have to maintain it by adding coolant (distilled water and antifreeze). Now I just go for a massive air or AIO cooler. This new rigid tubing stuff for custom loops does look cool though!

Hahaha I ran a bong for a while but went back to closed because of constantly refilling/cleaning.
 
IMG_20170819_104948.jpg IMG_20170819_104922.jpg

And just to note, yes, flow is right on the block even though the direction is marked on the hoses. I put those on backwards in the garage yesterday, but I have dry-break fittings at the radiator so I can switch those around without issue.
 
Distilled water on its own isn't the most effective, and algae happens.
You need anti microbial, and ideally to also use some kind of surfactant. Helps prevent any algae as well, in addition to helping the coolant move around in your system better. Friction creates heat.
 
Distilled water on its own isn't the most effective, and algae happens.
You need anti microbial, and ideally to also use some kind of surfactant. Helps prevent any algae as well, in addition to helping the coolant move around in your system better. Friction creates heat.
It may not be the best, but it's also 89 cents a gallon at my store
 
xspc-idle-stock clocks.png

So Tdie is the temp value you are looking at, one of those is highlighted for Node #0 (die 0) the other is CPU #0 Node #1 (die1). Just idle at the desktop at stock clocks. 31.5C/28.9C.

Here, cropped that section down so it does not get resized.

HWBOT STOCK Temps Idle.png
 
Nice.

In the other thread so done suggested you might have a galvanic corrosion issue with a copper block like that and the external radiators you use.

Is that true? Are those radiators not copper? (I'm not familiar with them, and don't know the model names, so I can't Google)

That being said, for short term performance testing it is unlikely to make any difference either way. Galvanic corrosion is a long slow process that takes place over months or even years.
 
Full load using Prime95 (blend, no real RAM load, this is an older version of Prime that does not use AVX)
Nice.

In the other thread so done suggested you might have a galvanic corrosion issue with a copper block like that and the external radiators you use.

Is that true? Are those radiators not copper? (I'm not familiar with them, and don't know the model names, so I can't Google)

That being said, for short term performance testing it is unlikely to make any difference either way. Galvanic corrosion is a long slow process that takes place over months or even years.
Yes, aluminum and copper...yes, I know. Short term testing.....etc etc. Let's not drag this thread further off topic AGAIN please.
 
So, at full load, stock clocks, 59C. Wife turned down the air conditioning on my while I was eating lunch and letting the radiator heat load. Was running a solid 58C after an hour. Ambient around 27/28c.

xspc-fullload-stock clocks.png
HWBOT STOCK Temps Full Load.png
 
nice! what clock is it at did I miss it somewhere or is it a secret?
Uh....5th word in the sentence above? ;) And in the screen shot. STOCK CLOCKS. Just getting a baseline. I have not used this particular board for OC so I have to get it figured out. Zenith went to Dan for testing.
 
27c/28c is a pretty high ambient making the mid 50s to high 50s load temp pretty darn great.
 
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System radiator takes 13 to 16 minutes to heat-load after a quick reboot. So about 3 to 4 attempts per hour just to give you some scope on what I am doing.
 
Pop a bigger Aluminum radiator (with fans, of course) onto your test bench with some QDC's, then you can chain it in as needed to your Exos. Or you could mod the Exos to use a copper radiator and make the auxiliary detachable radiator copper as well.

I have a pair of Exos-2 units that I am seriously considering modding out their aluminum radiators to copper. It seems I can no longer rely on Koolance to build new blocks when these new systems come out and every other manufacturer seems to be in love with naked copper blocks. All of my Koolance blocks are either gold or nickel plated copper anyway, so it seems easier and cheaper to just flush and mod the Exos than it is to replace the pump/reservoir/sensor setup that I have already invested in and quite like. If I am looking at a future where I will need to be getting non-Koolance blocks, it'd be nice not to have to worry about it.
 
Did not make my goal. I am surely radiator limited. Got a new one on the way.

4GHz full load across 16C/32T is going to happen.
 
Might need to pick up a Lytron Kodiak recirculating lab chiller.

I've had wet dreams (pun intended) about using one of these for PC water cooling since I encountered one in a chemistry lab. I keep looking at used lab supply auctions, but still haven't lucked out. New, they are out of my price range.

But with one of these you could easily keep the loop at ambient (or even slightly below) temperatures. The RC009 model is rated up to 1050W.

I mean, you can turn them down much lower than that, but condensation would be a concern. Though, as long as you keep the setting above the dew point with a safety margin, some minor sub-ambient cooling would likely be OK.
 
WOW.

How many watts do you think that bad boy is drawing/putting out at load?

Under a full load, the overclocked Threadripper system uses an additional 140 watts of power, or 52%! Considering that is all power being pulled from the CPU directly, it means we are pushing nearly 300 watts of total consumer power from the CPU.

OC'd to 4.0 it can get up there. Surprisingly it's got similar power draw to the overclocked 7900x which has 6c/12t less cpu. The 7900x oc'd to 4.6ghz (kitguru) drew 54% more power over stock to give a context.

https://www.pcper.com/reviews/Proce...20X-Review/Power-Consumption-and-Overclocking
 
Kyle - how big of radiator you matching up with the water block? I'm assuming CPU only, not GPU mixed in. (Sizing right now, and now sure how much heat I'm looking to dump)
 
Kyle - how big of radiator you matching up with the water block? I'm assuming CPU only, not GPU mixed in. (Sizing right now, and now sure how much heat I'm looking to dump)

He's using an Exos system - one of the newer revisions, I believe, but I could be wrong. All Exos systems come stock using an aluminum radiator, and depending on the model (755 or 1055) it will be mated to either 2x120 fans or 3x120's. The really old Exos units had 3x80's.


Edit to add: The Exos-2 755 unit can handle up to 590W. I can't find data for any of the other Exos units, but the 1055 has a stronger pump and a bigger radiator - it should handle quite a bit more. Not sure which precise model Kyle uses...
 
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I am running the TR on the 1055. Before doing this testing I even broke it down and fully cleaned it to make sure it was operating at top efficiency. Ambient in my office yesterday was about 78F.
 
Might need to pick up a Lytron Kodiak recirculating lab chiller.

I've had wet dreams (pun intended) about using one of these for PC water cooling since I encountered one in a chemistry lab. I keep looking at used lab supply auctions, but still haven't lucked out. New, they are out of my price range.

But with one of these you could easily keep the loop at ambient (or even slightly below) temperatures. The RC009 model is rated up to 1050W.

I mean, you can turn them down much lower than that, but condensation would be a concern. Though, as long as you keep the setting above the dew point with a safety margin, some minor sub-ambient cooling would likely be OK.

Why not get one of these? Helina HV-300A:- http://www.hailea.com/e-hailea/product1/HC-300A.htm

Not lab equipment, but if they're good enough for weed growers.... Water temp setting between 4C and 28C. At around £300 I'm temped to rip out my two aio's, re-use their two rads and buy a & pump and reservoir :D

Adding something like it to Kyle's loop would never reach the dew point if set correctly but cool that begging to be oc'd Threadripper nicely.
 
Why not get one of these? Helina HV-300A:- http://www.hailea.com/e-hailea/product1/HC-300A.htm

Not lab equipment, but if they're good enough for weed growers.... Water temp setting between 4C and 28C. At around £300 I'm temped to rip out my two aio's, re-use their two rads and buy a & pump and reservoir :D

Adding something like it to Kyle's loop would never reach the dew point if set correctly but cool that begging to be oc'd Threadripper nicely.


That is a nice find! Certainly a lot more affordable than the Lytton models.
 
4Ghz is surely happening and it will be "HardOCP stable," not this run it for 2 minutes for a benchmark. Took a bit of dialing in, but it is there. Still need more radiator as it heatsoaks and still fails. Will have artice up with more video on Monday hopefully.

Full load TR - 1.35625v 0.95vSOC - LLC Standard.png
 
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