NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

the channel's new the guys are not, ones from teksyndicate the other I don't remember...
yes that ram comment got me WTFing to but the m2 screw is fine.
Velcro hdd? maybe to keep room for the cooler upgrade? idk...
I posted it because its more good exposure for the M1 case.
 
I finally found a replacement motherboard. It's not very easy any more to find a Z87 or Z97 mini-itx motherboard, but I ended up finding the Asus Z97i-Deluxe. Mounting the Be Quiet! Dark Rock TF was very difficult. I was afraid that it was going to be impossible, but to my surprise, I eventually found a way to get it to fit. Sadly, it wouldn't fit with the end of the heat pipes pointing toward the back of the case because the power plug at the top of the case was in the way. So I had to mount it with the end of the heat pipes pointing toward the front of the case, now there isn't enough room to mount a fan on the front side bracket anymore. By the time I got everything back in, I was too tired and frustrated for cable management, so it is a tangled mess at the moment.
 
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Cheaper and better support for ATX, the 130 is truthfully one of the worst designed cases I have seen. Looking at the 130 owner's club on OC Net it has some serious cooling problems, plus very limited options for fan and cooler support.
The CM Elite 130 is bigger, so it must be better...
(sarcasm)
 
I finally found a replacement motherboard. It's not very easy any more to find a Z87 or Z97 mini-itx motherboard, but I ended up finding the Asus Z97i-Deluxe. Mounting the Be Quiet! Dark Rock TF was very difficult. I was afraid that it was going to be impossible, but to my surprise, I eventually found a way to get it to fit. Sadly, it wouldn't fit with the end of the heat pipes pointing toward the back of the case because the power plug at the top of the case was in the way. So I had to mount it with the end of the heat pipes pointing toward the front of the case, now there isn't enough room to mount a fan on the front side bracket anymore. By the time I got everything back in, I was too tired and frustrated for cable management, so it is a tangled mess at the moment.

Would moving the power plug to the middle position, swapping places with the small rectangular metal plate, have allowed the heatsink to fit? Sorry if you already tried this and it didn't help.
 
Would moving the power plug to the middle position, swapping places with the small rectangular metal plate, have allowed the heatsink to fit? Sorry if you already tried this and it didn't help.

I was wondering the same thing. That Asus board has the socket higher and closer to the ram slots than most of their newer designs, I can see it being a problem with the Dark Rock.
 
Are the 3d files open for everyone? I would like to 3d print the front IO panel but without the actual IO slots except for the power button.
 
Hi everyone, I'm about to update my M1 ncase with new parts. Was wondering if any of you guys think this might fit well all together ?

Titian xp
I7 770k
Samsung 960 pro 1 tb
Asus rog strix z270i gaming
G.Skill Trident Z RGB - DDR4 F4-4266C19D-16GTZR
Corsair sf600
Noctua NH US9

It's Mainly used for gaming in 2d and 3d(oculus)

Don't see any issues with that. You'll benefit the most with a fan in the right side of the side panel fan bracket and I'd recommend a single one under the GPU. It doesn't even have to spin fast to be effective.

Tax time is here! :whistle:

With that in mind, I'll be embarking on the last big revision for my build.
Anything further on from this and I'll probably make my own case. Needless to say this is far far off...

On my do to list:
- Re-do all the cabling
- Switch from soft to hard tubing
- Switch over to Noctua fans with some painting
- Install an aquaero, usb hub, maybe a vision display for kicks

Can anyone chime in with some badass cable management?
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I like to think my CM is decent (I've posted my build many times, but my link is in my signature). Also, keep in mind that in the last one to get that cabling to go between the tray and the PSU, you'll definitely need paracord sleeving over plastic sleeving.

Some guy in the comments tried to say a Cooler Master 130 is superior to the M1, I almost commented and said yeah except the M1 is about a 10 times nicer case.

The baiting is real on that comment.
 
So I just finished routing everything for my first custom loop. Never done water cooling before. I have paper towels stuffed around key points, all lines are connected, hard drives and GPU power disconnected. I'm wondering if I have something wrong though - I plugged the PSU into the wall, and have a jumper that I plugged in. The pump is a Swiftech Apogee Drive II, which has 2 wires coming off it - one fan wire, one power. I plugged the fan wire into the CPU fan on the motherboard, and the power into the PSU connector. The 8 pin motherboard power cable is plugged into the PSU, and I have a jumper for the 24-pin. The 24-pin is plugged into the PSU but NOT the motherboard.

I THINK everything should be correct, but when I turn the PSU on and plug in the jumper, the PSU makes a clicking noise once and that's it. Pump doesn't come on.

Help?

PSU is a Corsair SF600.
Motherboard is ASRock Z270 Fatal1ty Gaming ITX
Pump is a Swiftech Apogee Drive II purchased directly from Swiftech, not a 3rd party seller.
Cables are OEM cables that came with the PSU.

Troubleshooting steps taken so far -
- checked connections to PSU (cables plugged in all the way). Everything is in as far as it'll go and the little clips are clicked locked so should be good
- tried other fan connections on motherboard (case fan, CPU fan, optional pump)
 
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So I just finished routing everything for my first custom loop. Never done water cooling before. I have paper towels stuffed around key points, all lines are connected, hard drives and GPU power disconnected. I'm wondering if I have something wrong though - I plugged the PSU into the wall, and have a jumper that I plugged in. The pump is a Swiftech Apogee Drive II, which has 2 wires coming off it - one fan wire, one power. I plugged the fan wire into the CPU fan on the motherboard, and the power into the PSU connector. The 8 pin motherboard power cable is plugged into the PSU, and I have a jumper for the 24-pin. The 24-pin is plugged into the PSU but NOT the motherboard.

I THINK everything should be correct, but when I turn the PSU on and plug in the jumper, the PSU makes a clicking noise once and that's it. Pump doesn't come on.

Help?

PSU is a Corsair SF600.
Motherboard is ASRock Z270 Fatal1ty Gaming ITX
Pump is a Swiftech Apogee Drive II purchased directly from Swiftech, not a 3rd party seller.
Cables are OEM cables that came with the PSU.

Troubleshooting steps taken so far -
- checked connections to PSU (cables plugged in all the way). Everything is in as far as it'll go and the little clips are clicked locked so should be good
- tried other fan connections on motherboard (case fan, CPU fan, optional pump)

If you have tried plugging case fans directly to the PSU and turned on the PSU and they start spinning you have a faulty pump, if nothing turns on, and you sure you have placed the jumper on the 24-pin correct?, then there is probably something wrong with your PSU
 
So I just finished routing everything for my first custom loop. Never done water cooling before. I have paper towels stuffed around key points, all lines are connected, hard drives and GPU power disconnected. I'm wondering if I have something wrong though - I plugged the PSU into the wall, and have a jumper that I plugged in. The pump is a Swiftech Apogee Drive II, which has 2 wires coming off it - one fan wire, one power. I plugged the fan wire into the CPU fan on the motherboard, and the power into the PSU connector. The 8 pin motherboard power cable is plugged into the PSU, and I have a jumper for the 24-pin. The 24-pin is plugged into the PSU but NOT the motherboard.

I THINK everything should be correct, but when I turn the PSU on and plug in the jumper, the PSU makes a clicking noise once and that's it. Pump doesn't come on.

Help?

PSU is a Corsair SF600.
Motherboard is ASRock Z270 Fatal1ty Gaming ITX
Pump is a Swiftech Apogee Drive II purchased directly from Swiftech, not a 3rd party seller.
Cables are OEM cables that came with the PSU.

Troubleshooting steps taken so far -
- checked connections to PSU (cables plugged in all the way). Everything is in as far as it'll go and the little clips are clicked locked so should be good
- tried other fan connections on motherboard (case fan, CPU fan, optional pump)

I had problem with my son's build that might have been similar. In that case it was the motherboard. Pressing the power switch would cause a single click in the PS, a spin or two of the PS fan, and then nothing. The computer would only turn on if I pressed and kept pressing theM1 power switch (or any switch connected to the motherboard's power switch pins) until the PSU really got going (its fan was spinning steadily). Then I could let go of the power switch and the computer would boot and run just fine. However, if I shut down Windows, it would have the same start up problem. Sometimes even pressing and holding the power switch did not work and then I had to unplug the PS from the wall and the motherboard, let the stored power in both dissipate, and then plug everything back together and try again.

Changing the PS did not make any difference. So I would suggest start with a very simple build and try swapping the PS if you can or any other parts to isolate cause of the problem. After I received a replacement motherboard from Asus the start up problem never happened again. Good luck.
 
Would moving the power plug to the middle position, swapping places with the small rectangular metal plate, have allowed the heatsink to fit? Sorry if you already tried this and it didn't help.

I was wondering the same thing. That Asus board has the socket higher and closer to the ram slots than most of their newer designs, I can see it being a problem with the Dark Rock.

When I was putting it together I thought about swapping the plug position, but didn't think it would fit. Now that I go back and look at it.....it looks reeeeaally close. You would definitely have to remove the plug completely while installing the heatsink.

The other thing that would be really close is the end of the heat pipes and the back of the case. They will probably be touching.

I might give it a try sometime, but I'm not sure yet.

My problem, now that I put the Dark Rock TF in, is that I'm getting thermal throttling with my graphics card . Before, I had a 120mm fan in the front slot of the side bracket, controlled by the graphics card in addition to the 2x120mm fans on the bottom. Now that side fan is gone.

Also, the 120mm fan that was in the back slot of the side bracket controlled by CPU temp, has also been replaced by the Dark Rock TF's 140mm fan. This seems like it would be a good thing, but the CPU temps stay so low that the fan never speeds up to bring in much air.

I think the first thing I'm going to do is see if I can move the Dark Rock TF fan toward the back of the case so that I can put the 120mm fan back in the front position on the side bracket. This will mean that the Dark Rock TF fan will be off-centered on the heatsink, but I'm not having any problems with CPU temps, so that should be fine. I just don't know if this plan will work yet. If I can't find a way to slide the Dark Rock TF fan back a bit, I might just remove it completely and put a 120mm fan in it's place.

I'll come back and edit this post with some pictures later. (don't expect good pictures, because my phone is my best camera)
 
When I was putting it together I thought about swapping the plug position, but didn't think it would fit. Now that I go back and look at it.....it looks reeeeaally close. You would definitely have to remove the plug completely while installing the heatsink.

The other thing that would be really close is the end of the heat pipes and the back of the case. They will probably be touching.

I might give it a try sometime, but I'm not sure yet.

My problem, now that I put the Dark Rock TF in, is that I'm getting thermal throttling with my graphics card . Before, I had a 120mm fan in the front slot of the side bracket, controlled by the graphics card in addition to the 2x120mm fans on the bottom. Now that side fan is gone.

Also, the 120mm fan that was in the back slot of the side bracket controlled by CPU temp, has also been replaced by the Dark Rock TF's 140mm fan. This seems like it would be a good thing, but the CPU temps stay so low that the fan never speeds up to bring in much air.

I think the first thing I'm going to do is see if I can move the Dark Rock TF fan toward the back of the case so that I can put the 120mm fan back in the front position on the side bracket. This will mean that the Dark Rock TF fan will be off-centered on the heatsink, but I'm not having any problems with CPU temps, so that should be fine. I just don't know if this plan will work yet. If I can't find a way to slide the Dark Rock TF fan back a bit, I might just remove it completely and put a 120mm fan in it's place.

I'll come back and edit this post with some pictures later. (don't expect good pictures, because my phone is my best camera)

Why not use the BIOS to do a fan control on the CPU cooler fan? Unless I'm misunderstanding the problem, that 140mm has potentially to be much quieter while pushing the same air (or more) than the previously used 120mm.
 
When I was putting it together I thought about swapping the plug position, but didn't think it would fit. Now that I go back and look at it.....it looks reeeeaally close. You would definitely have to remove the plug completely while installing the heatsink.

The other thing that would be really close is the end of the heat pipes and the back of the case. They will probably be touching.

I might give it a try sometime, but I'm not sure yet.

My problem, now that I put the Dark Rock TF in, is that I'm getting thermal throttling with my graphics card . Before, I had a 120mm fan in the front slot of the side bracket, controlled by the graphics card in addition to the 2x120mm fans on the bottom. Now that side fan is gone.

Also, the 120mm fan that was in the back slot of the side bracket controlled by CPU temp, has also been replaced by the Dark Rock TF's 140mm fan. This seems like it would be a good thing, but the CPU temps stay so low that the fan never speeds up to bring in much air.

I think the first thing I'm going to do is see if I can move the Dark Rock TF fan toward the back of the case so that I can put the 120mm fan back in the front position on the side bracket. This will mean that the Dark Rock TF fan will be off-centered on the heatsink, but I'm not having any problems with CPU temps, so that should be fine. I just don't know if this plan will work yet. If I can't find a way to slide the Dark Rock TF fan back a bit, I might just remove it completely and put a 120mm fan in it's place.

I'll come back and edit this post with some pictures later. (don't expect good pictures, because my phone is my best camera)

I see that the Dark Rock TF heatskink with out a top fan is 108.8 mm tall, compared to the Noctua NH-C14 which is 105 mm tall. The be Quiet fan is listed as only 22 mm thick. So, if the Dark Rock TF is too tall to fit a 25 mm thick fan on the other half of the side fan bracket, maybe try the new slim Noctua fan, the NF-A12x15 PWM which is only 15 mm thick.
 
Hello Gents!

Looking for any recommendations on improving cooling in my v4.

Overview - only putting what I think is relevant to cooling. My signature should be up to date on components.
  • Noctua NH-U12S - two fans blowing up to push air out top vents
  • Rear fan exhausting
  • Two 120mm fans at bottom intaking into an EVGA GTX780
  • Corsair SF600 pulling in air from right vents
  • (2) WD 4TB Blacks
Things seem pretty warm all the time when I put my hand above the case. Is there anything you can suggest that may help with cooling? I plan to replace the hard drives with a single 8TB Red (not pro version) and perhaps an EVGA GTX 2080 when it comes out.

I'd like to stay with air cooling so any recommendations for different fans or different intake/exhaust options are welcome! I'd prefer to have positive pressure to keep dust out. I don't think custom sleeved PSU cables would help airflow that much but if I'm incorrect, please do let me know.


Thanks!
 
hot air coming out the top would be normal and a sign that your air flow is good. the heat has to go somewhere...
have you actually checked your component temps?
 
Hello Gents!

Looking for any recommendations on improving cooling in my v4.

Overview - only putting what I think is relevant to cooling. My signature should be up to date on components.
  • Noctua NH-U12S - two fans blowing up to push air out top vents
  • Rear fan exhausting
  • Two 120mm fans at bottom intaking into an EVGA GTX780
  • Corsair SF600 pulling in air from right vents
  • (2) WD 4TB Blacks
Things seem pretty warm all the time when I put my hand above the case. Is there anything you can suggest that may help with cooling? I plan to replace the hard drives with a single 8TB Red (not pro version) and perhaps an EVGA GTX 2080 when it comes out.

I'd like to stay with air cooling so any recommendations for different fans or different intake/exhaust options are welcome! I'd prefer to have positive pressure to keep dust out. I don't think custom sleeved PSU cables would help airflow that much but if I'm incorrect, please do let me know.


Thanks!

Sorry, but how does a Noctua NH-U12S fit in the M1? Is it really that model or an NH-U9S?

Otherwise, as pendragon1 stated, the heat is getting out so that's a good sign. I would only be concerned if the temperaturs are above the level that you are comfortable with or the fans are too loud.
 
When I put the Ncase in a suitcase, do I leave the panels on or take them off and store therm elsewhere? Afraid of denting the panel, they'll be safely covered in soft material in both cases.
 
OMG sorry - yea the NH-U9S not the NH-U12S.

My temps are:
  • HDD 29-34C
  • M.2 drive 50C
  • CPU 50C idle - maxes over 80C when gaming and I don't have intensive games
  • GPU 38C idle - is usually OK at load, maybe 50C or so.
I want to OC a little but any kick up in voltage is just not possible without super high temps. I want to see if there can be any improvement with what I have to allow for some OC'ing
 
Have you transposed the CPU and GPU temperatures there? If not, something weird is going on, because my 6700K idles at 32C with all fans off...

If you want to try to tame the CPU temps then you could try a side intake fan - I found that adding an 120mm intake here made a decent impact on the CPU temps (and also on the motherboard temp).
 
Hello Gents!

Looking for any recommendations on improving cooling in my v4.

Overview - only putting what I think is relevant to cooling. My signature should be up to date on components.
  • Noctua NH-U12S - two fans blowing up to push air out top vents
  • Rear fan exhausting
  • Two 120mm fans at bottom intaking into an EVGA GTX780
  • Corsair SF600 pulling in air from right vents
  • (2) WD 4TB Blacks
Things seem pretty warm all the time when I put my hand above the case. Is there anything you can suggest that may help with cooling? I plan to replace the hard drives with a single 8TB Red (not pro version) and perhaps an EVGA GTX 2080 when it comes out.

I'd like to stay with air cooling so any recommendations for different fans or different intake/exhaust options are welcome! I'd prefer to have positive pressure to keep dust out. I don't think custom sleeved PSU cables would help airflow that much but if I'm incorrect, please do let me know.


Thanks!

OMG sorry - yea the NH-U9S not the NH-U12S.

My temps are:
  • HDD 29-34C
  • M.2 drive 50C
  • CPU 50C idle - maxes over 80C when gaming and I don't have intensive games
  • GPU 38C idle - is usually OK at load, maybe 50C or so.
I want to OC a little but any kick up in voltage is just not possible without super high temps. I want to see if there can be any improvement with what I have to allow for some OC'ing

i7 47960K - CPU listed in your sig, I am not familiar with that model...? ;^p

You have no room for a side mount fan over the NH-U9S (125mm high heatsink in an area with a 130mm clearance)...

I am assuming you are using the bracket on the side panel across from the PSU for the two 3.5" HDDs, you might need to switch to 2.5" SSDs (I believe you can mount 4 total, 2 on either side of the front interior panel) & mount a 120mm (or rig up a 140mm...?) fan when the HDD bracket was, attaching the fan to the chassis fan header...
 
Wow I'm totally full of typos. Yea its a 4790k

Temps are not transposed. OpenHardware Monitor shows 56C for CPU and 40C for GFX. Something is baking the main area and I'm thinking about reapplying some thermal paste.
The GFX card has fans blowing directly on it so I imagine it would be lower.

Boil is correct - I have no room to add any more fans to the side panel due to my need for a 3.5" drive.

Sounds like I'm totally up poo creek?
 
Oops, forgot that you were using the HDD bracket on the side panel. I'm still totally confused as to how your CPU is idling so hot. You're probably just not getting enough cool air into the top section of the case: have you tried running the rear exhaust as an intake? Not sure that it'll make much, if any difference but it has to be worth a try.
 
is there room to rotate the hsf so its not sucking hot air off the gpu? or try what baw just suggested.
 
Wow I'm totally full of typos. Yea its a 4790k

Temps are not transposed. OpenHardware Monitor shows 56C for CPU and 40C for GFX. Something is baking the main area and I'm thinking about reapplying some thermal paste.
The GFX card has fans blowing directly on it so I imagine it would be lower.

Boil is correct - I have no room to add any more fans to the side panel due to my need for a 3.5" drive.

Sounds like I'm totally up poo creek?

You can mount a 120 mm fan to the front half of the side bracket and then attach the drive cage to the fan. This arrangement was discussed last month. Here is how Necere decribed how he attached the fan and the drive cage combination to the side bracket a few posts later:

Hm... well I can tell you the way I did it was to use the included drive cage screws to attach it the cage (only works with open corner fans), and the fan screws to attach the fan to the bracket. If the screw heads are too small for the holes on the fan, they must be larger than mine were. My immediate suggestion would be to get some washers of the right size to make up the difference. That, or some longer screws.

I'm not sure how effective this can be with the fan blowing right onto the closest drive, but I guess some air will be brought into the case and will pass around the drives.
 
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I'm confused too haha.

Trying the rear fan as an intake or rotating the heatsink has to be one or the either. I'll think about it a bit first.
I don't remember if I have another fan header. Though I'm not sure if another intake, or if an exhaust is more effective? Do I need more cool air, or would it be more effective to just exhaust faster.

HMMMMM.....HMMMM>....
 
Sorry if I have led to this confusion. I think you are close, but what is also involved here is the CPU model. I have a 4790K and it runs hot (idle ~ 65C, under stress testing it shoots right up to the 90s) with a Noctua NH-C14, no less. I am going to delid mine and will report my results. Computers, AARRGGHH!!
 
bencho

If you can rotate the heat sink so the fan is pointing up (exhausting out of the top of the chassis), and add a second fan to the heat sink (on the other side) & set the rear fan to intake; that should both increase cool air into the case & exhaust the hot air from the heat sink more efficiently...?

Mounting a fan between the side bracket & HDD cage will also increase cool air intake a bit (but no where near as much as ditching the 3.5" HDDs & switching to 2.5" SSDs)...

You could re-purpose the 3.5" HDDs into a NAS enclosure...?
 
My NH-U9S is already pointing up and I have two fans on it already - exhausting air up the top vent.
My rear fan is exhausting and its a pain to change it due to space so I'm a bit lazy to do that change.

The HDD change is in effect - I'm going to put the 2 HDD into my other box in the living room which is just a simple network share. In replacement, I'm going to have a WD 8tb Red which should help lower temps... maybe.

I also just found that my CPU fans are running at 600rpm. Not sure why but maybe kicked it up a little bit may help. Gonna test it with AI Suite 3
 
The extra space between a single 3.5" HDD placed nearer to the PSU will allow a fan sandwiched between the side bracket & HDD cage/bracket will give more air in; but I think switching the rear fan from exhaust to intake will help a good bit...

Increasing the speed of the heat sink fans will help as well...!
 
Hello

I figured I'd share a couple of photos of my Ryzen workstation build.
This thread was very inspirational.

I'm fortunate that my job allows me to bring my own hardware, so the point of this machine was to have an office workstation that doesn't suck, and that is reasonably small so that I could carry to and from the office on the subway.

With lights off:
ryzen_itx_01.jpg

With lights on:
ryzen_itx_02.jpg


Almost everything in the water cooling loop is bitspower, except for the radiator, which is a disappointing EK SE 240.

The rig is still kinda loud if I want to keep my temps in check, but I have a few plans to address this thanks to other people's experience on this thread. I have already purchased a 92mm radiator to attach to the back, and I also think I'll add some height to the case feet so i could fit 15mm fans on the outside and do push/pull. It might be a little ugly, but that strikes me as a fair tradeoff for the noise reduction.

Here's the parts list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/bWy6WX
 
My NH-U9S is already pointing up and I have two fans on it already - exhausting air up the top vent.
My rear fan is exhausting and its a pain to change it due to space so I'm a bit lazy to do that change.

The HDD change is in effect - I'm going to put the 2 HDD into my other box in the living room which is just a simple network share. In replacement, I'm going to have a WD 8tb Red which should help lower temps... maybe.

I also just found that my CPU fans are running at 600rpm. Not sure why but maybe kicked it up a little bit may help. Gonna test it with AI Suite 3

There's a good chance that rear exhaust is also disrupting the airflow from the bottom fan on the Noctua cooler as well. Having that fan as an intake will probably help just as much as increasing the RPM of your CPU cooler fans.
 
Yeah, I don't think there's any point in having a rear exhaust and a top exhaust. I'm not a huge fan of the rear exhaust on the M1 in any event, as I just don't think it's very effective full stop.

Bencho, I appreciate that messing about changing fans around is a pain, so I'd try disconnecting the rear exhaust from the board and seeing if it actually affects the CPU temperature at all.

I'd also try rotating the U9S through 90 degrees and running it front to back, with an intake on the side panel to give a clear airflow path from the front (side) of the case to the back. Obviously that's a bit of a hassle, though.
 
Almost everything in the water cooling loop is bitspower, except for the radiator, which is a disappointing EK SE 240.

Very sweet build, looks very great! But yes the raditor is one of the worst you can get sadly in this case :( For example a MagiCool G2 240 Slim radator which just have 27mm thickness (EK SE 240 has 26mm thickness) has a much better cooling perfomance and costs almost only the half. The cooling performance of this MagiCool radiator is similar to the 30mm thick, 240mm Alphacool NexXos ST30 radator.
 
Hello

I figured I'd share a couple of photos of my Ryzen workstation build.
This thread was very inspirational.

I'm fortunate that my job allows me to bring my own hardware, so the point of this machine was to have an office workstation that doesn't suck, and that is reasonably small so that I could carry to and from the office on the subway.

With lights off:
View attachment 32838
With lights on:
View attachment 32837

Almost everything in the water cooling loop is bitspower, except for the radiator, which is a disappointing EK SE 240.

The rig is still kinda loud if I want to keep my temps in check, but I have a few plans to address this thanks to other people's experience on this thread. I have already purchased a 92mm radiator to attach to the back, and I also think I'll add some height to the case feet so i could fit 15mm fans on the outside and do push/pull. It might be a little ugly, but that strikes me as a fair tradeoff for the noise reduction.

Here's the parts list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/bWy6WX

The noise arises from two different fronts:
1 - Fan speed. I'm sure you're running them pretty high to keep things under control.
2 - Radiator fin / fan interaction. This can't really be changed unless you try to smooth things out. For example you can install a fan gasket to give the air more chance to straighten out before it starts interacting with the fins. Using a stator to straighten the fan airflow before it hits the radiator would be even better still, although that's not practical in the M1. Or you can grab a different radiator with fewer fins or a different fin shape.

My advice as always - Cut the bottom of the case out, use a low FPI radiator on the bottom, add a rear radiator as you're doing, modify the bottom radiator to gain from breathing space. (y)
Pretty drastic but really the only way to get the temps you're probably wanting from the setup. :D
 
What are your CPU/GPU temps with this build?

Idle under KDE plasma 5, i get CPU: 30 degrees, and GPU 39 degrees.
My "load" test was running the Linux version of XCOM2 while compiling LLVM on 12 cores. After 15 minutes or so, the GPU hits about 60 degrees, and the CPU about 65. This is with the fans at 100% and no overclock. I'm fine with this, but would rather not run the fans so fast. I might also like to OC my chip eventually, so it'd be nice to have some breathing room.
 
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