AMD FX-9800P in HP ENVY x360 - m6-ar004dx

T

TinyTim

n00b
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Jul 11, 2017
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In this thread, Formula.350 found an unpopulated M.2 M-key position on his MOBO. I have ordered these and a soldering iron in the hopes that the port works. I am going off of the reasoning that HP left the port unpopulated because they are greedy bastards who take money from Intel in exchange for fucking over AMD prebuilt systems. If the port installation is not registered by the BIOS, would it be possible to use an M-key adapter in SATA III shell? Is the HHD sitting on a pci-e 3.0 lane? I have looked for a very long time, and I cannot answer the second question. I get the laptop tomorrow afternoon refurbished from new egg. It was a pretty good deal for 399 USD. FHD ISP display for 400 dollars, with an AMD 7th gen.

If someone can help me get the port to work, I have 9 extra M-key sockets. I'd give 1 or 2 to you for the cost of shipping.

I will find out tomorrow if the auxillary SMD's (resistors etc) are populated around the port.

-The manual
-Relevant HP support post
 
TinyTim said:
In this thread, Formula.350 found an unpopulated M.2 M-key position on his MOBO. I have ordered these and a soldering iron in the hopes that the port works. I am going off of the reasoning that HP left the port unpopulated because they are greedy bastards who take money from Intel in exchange for fucking over AMD prebuilt systems. If the port installation is not registered by the BIOS, would it be possible to use an M-key adapter in SATA III shell? Is the HHD sitting on a pci-e 3.0 lane? I have looked for a very long time, and I cannot answer the second question. I get the laptop tomorrow afternoon refurbished from new egg. It was a pretty good deal for 399 USD. FHD ISP display for 400 dollars, with an AMD 7th gen.

If someone can help me get the port to work, I have 9 extra M-key sockets. I'd give 1 or 2 to you for the cost of shipping.

I will find out tomorrow if the auxillary SMD's (resistors etc) are populated around the port.

-The manual
-Relevant HP support post
Click to expand...

Well first I hope you have experience soldering on a multilayer board. It's not easy and sometimes it's impossible by hand. Also if you are not using lead based solder getting it to flow properly to make the connection is going to be pretty impossible- the new solder types are lead free and need a very hot iron which can damage a board. And they will damage the board well before you get the solder flowing. Remember these boards were assembled by machines.

The issue regarding missing components: that will depend on the board layout and if the connector was the only thing left off. If the logic and other circuitry are there, and you get lucky with your soldering, you might just sit back and make fun of me. I hope you do :)

Good luck.
 
The issue regarding missing components: that will depend on the board layout and if the connector was the only thing left off. If the logic and other circuitry are there, and you get lucky with your soldering, you might just sit back and make fun of me. I hope you do
Click to expand...

First time soldering :cry:

Going to try it with a 13 dollar soldering kit off of Amazon. I think that I have maxed out my beginners luck karma.

How can I do this with the smallest chance of fucking up?
 
TinyTim said:
First time soldering :cry:

Going to try it with a 13 dollar soldering kit off of Amazon. I think that I have maxed out my beginners luck karma.

How can I do this with the smallest chance of fucking up?
Click to expand...
Givent he info youve provided, dont do it at all.
 
TinyTim said:
First time soldering :cry:

Going to try it with a 13 dollar soldering kit off of Amazon. I think that I have maxed out my beginners luck karma.

How can I do this with the smallest chance of fucking up?
Click to expand...

If I were to do it, I'd give myself 50/50 odds of pulling it off assuming 60/40 or 70/30 rosin core solder AND all the associated components actually being on the board.- and I've been soldering for 44 years.

Maybe you'll get lucky. Do you know the composition of the solder in the kit?
 
Spirit_Retro said:
If I were to do it, I'd give myself 50/50 odds of pulling it off assuming 60/40 or 70/30 rosin core solder AND all the associated components actually being on the board.- and I've been soldering for 44 years.

Maybe you'll get lucky. Do you know the composition of the solder in the kit?
Click to expand...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M4JW8YK/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_12?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ANVTFBQPX9SI3

I don't know what the Rosin ratio is. Spirit_Retro, what are the most likely things that will/could go wrong?
 
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I already bought one of these and just swapped in a regular 2.5" ssd. Success!
 
*brushes off his Bracers of Minor Necromancy*
As the original starter of this entire thought project, I am curious what ever became of THUMPer's endeavors! lol

I wish I had as much confidence as originally, but without knowing how important those missing SMD components are, I'm not too sure it'd have worked out so well for ol' Thumper.
As far as soldering it ON is concerned, while I am no expert, I have DEsoldered lots of crap and with a bit of flux brushed on the contacts and solder already on the iron's tip, I honestly cannot imagine damaging the PCB. The pads are so small and have so little solder on them to begin with that not much heat is going to end up being transferred in my experience.

Maybe he didn't even bother attempting it and called it a day with using a normal SATA SSD :p
 
Laptop is still going strong. The user uses it everyday. I haven't had to touch it since I put it into his hands. I'm sure it needs a win10 refresh though. It's a regular 2.5" ssd not M.2.
 
Awww. Bummer lol

I mean, that's great that the user is enjoying it, but a bummer for the no m.2 :p

Thanks for replying though!
 
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