NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

No they discontinued the NH-C14. I am using a Dark Rock TF and it cools extremely well and very quiet. I have seen it mounted on a Strix Z270 with the heat pipe bends to the right. Ram clearance and PCI clearance was fine the guy that did it stated he had to replace the tall heatsink next to the IO panel with some lower profile heatsinks. Pretty sure the Dark Rock is the only large top down cooler that really compares to the Noctua and will fit in the Ncase.
Thank you, I decided on just going with the Dark Rock TF. :)
I just checked and there's 1 Noctua C14 on Ebay right now. But he's only shipping to Europe which might not work for you depending where you're from.
I looked at it but it ended up being covered in rust!?
 
Hello! Does anybody happen to know where I can still purchase a Noctua NH--C14? I've been looking for a while to no avail. If I can't find one, what is the best CPU cooler I can get? I'm fine with an AIO. My main concern is noise - I want idles to be near silent, which is why I'm hesitant on an AIO. My motherboard is an Asus Z270i, and thermal headroom to overclock my 7700k would be preferred, but at this point, I am willing to sacrifice clock speeds for noise. I am going to delid, so hopefully I can have the best of both worlds. Thanks!

Ebay is your best bet. They come up regularly or have been but I noticed more and more are used units. You can still find a new one though if you just keep checking.
 
I can confirm that you can fit a Noctua NH-C14S in combination with the Biostart X370GTN and the new 120mm slim fans. You can even fit the 140mm fan if you use a ATX->SFX converter on the ATX bracket. The power cable doesn't completly fit anymore.


I'm almost finished with my build now, just need to do some overclocking, but I might wait for a BIOS update first.

  • AMD Ryzen 1700X
  • Nvidia GTX1080 + Accelero Extreme III
  • Biostar X370GTN
  • Flare X 16GB
  • Corsair SF600
  • 500GB 960 Evo
  • 2TB 5400RPM 2.5"
  • A few noctua fans

Some temps:
Idle GPU: 30°C*
Furmark GPU: 65°C (1950MHz/5094MHz)
Idle CPU: 30°C
Prime95 CPU: 75°C (3.85GHz)

(* I have to check my GPU fan's they seem to run at 1100RPM all the time, while the Fan Speed % changes in afterburner)


More photo's: https://imgur.com/a/YZYSj

Looks like a nice quiet setup.

Did you notice much change from the small fan to the 120mm?
 
MCP50X pump is very quiet and cool under 2000rpm.

KOOLANCE HX-CV720V with shroud
Nocture NF-A14 industrialPPC3000 x2
These are enough to cool i7-7700K 5GHz OC / 1080Ti 2GHz OC.

EK-Monoblock seems less cool than high end water blocks.
Kryographics with active BP is incredible.


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MCP50X pump is very quiet and cool under 2000rpm.

KOOLANCE HX-CV720V with shroud
Nocture NF-A14 industrialPPC3000 x2
These are enough to cool i7-7700K 5GHz OC / 1080Ti 2GHz OC.

EK-Monoblock seems less cool than high end water blocks.
Kryographics with active BP is incredible.


View attachment 29435
View attachment 29432 View attachment 29433 View attachment 29434



Incredible build, I have only seen one other Ncase with the vertically mounted GPU. That is one way to use 25mm fans and good radiator in the bottom. I have the Aquacomputer block with active backplate ane they are incredible.
 
Looks like a nice quiet setup.
It is, however there seems to be a bit more noise (coil whine like) from the GPU on heavy load, it might be one of the smaller heatsinks touching one of the pipes :(

Did you notice much change from the small fan to the 120mm?

I'm not sure if it is much better, the PSU is quite close to the CPU cooler so there might be less airflow. I changed it together with the GPU cooler, so the numbers might be a bit off, will try it without a OC to compare it.
 
MCP50X pump is very quiet and cool under 2000rpm.

KOOLANCE HX-CV720V with shroud
Nocture NF-A14 industrialPPC3000 x2
These are enough to cool i7-7700K 5GHz OC / 1080Ti 2GHz OC.

EK-Monoblock seems less cool than high end water blocks.
Kryographics with active BP is incredible.


View attachment 29435
View attachment 29432 View attachment 29433 View attachment 29434



BOOM!

Beautiful... You've read my mind and unlike me, you've executed. I'm so happy to see this.. seriously!(y)(y)(y)(y)

Mind you, I'd still like to try doing a top mounted radiator.

Can you fill us in with some more detail?
- How are you mounting the GPU? Is there a bracket in the back?
- Which riser are you using?
 
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(* I have to check my GPU fan's they seem to run at 1100RPM all the time, while the Fan Speed % changes in afterburner)

I'm guessing your card's bios is pretty close to the FE which means that the fan controllers min. is limited to 1100 rpm. The way I solved this for my 1080 Ti FE was to use the bios from the EVGA SC2 version of the card since it allows the fans to stop completely. (if the fan supports it that is)
The best way to solve this is to use a bios editor and dial in the fan specs – but seeing as there isn't any editor for Pascal cards yet using the BIOS from a different card will have to do.
 
Incredible build, I have only seen one other Ncase with the vertically mounted GPU. That is one way to use 25mm fans and good radiator in the bottom. I have the Aquacomputer block with active backplate ane they are incredible.
Thank you.
Nocture NF-A14 iPPC 3000s were too excess,
Running Time Spy Benchmark, these were able to keep the coolant under 40C at 1500rpm.:)

BOOM!

Beautiful... You've read my mind and unlike me, you've executed. I'm so happy to see this.. seriously!(y)(y)(y)(y)

Mind you, I'd still like to try doing a top mounted radiator.

Can you fill us in with some more detail?
- How are you mounting the GPU? Is there a bracket in the back?
- Which riser are you using?

A top mounted radiator will make more freely layout of vertical GPU card rather than bottom, I think:)
Keeping air flow path, I had to choice very very small reservoir like this,:dead:
but this small 1.6x5cm tube reservoir is functioning.
20170704_215253.jpg

I modded this bracket, and used Thermaltake TT Premium PCI-E 3.0 Extender – 300mm.
The new TT Premium riser cable is good contrary to the awful older one.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Gra...front-side-converted-support/32698964430.html
http://www.thermaltake.com/Chassis/...T_Premium_PCI_E_3_0_Extender_300mm/design.htm
20170601_203606.jpg
 
I'm guessing your card's bios is pretty close to the FE which means that the fan controllers min. is limited to 1100 rpm. The way I solved this for my 1080 Ti FE was to use the bios from the EVGA SC2 version of the card since it allows the fans to stop completely. (if the fan supports it that is)
The best way to solve this is to use a bios editor and dial in the fan specs – but seeing as there isn't any editor for Pascal cards yet using the BIOS from a different card will have to do.
It is a MSI AERO, I was thinking it already had that feature, but can't find it indeed. So I might try that. Do you know where I can find more info about flashing and a supported BIOS?

EDIT: another thing, Ryzen doesn't have intergrated graphics. Is it even possible without it?
 
Thank you.
Nocture NF-A14 iPPC 3000s were too excess,
Running Time Spy Benchmark, these were able to keep the coolant under 40C at 1500rpm.:)



A top mounted radiator will make more freely layout of vertical GPU card rather than bottom, I think:)
Keeping air flow path, I had to choice very very small reservoir like this,:dead:
but this small 1.6x5cm tube reservoir is functioning.
View attachment 29442

I modded this bracket, and used Thermaltake TT Premium PCI-E 3.0 Extender – 300mm.
The new TT Premium riser cable is good contrary to the awful older one.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Gra...front-side-converted-support/32698964430.html
http://www.thermaltake.com/Chassis/...T_Premium_PCI_E_3_0_Extender_300mm/design.htm
View attachment 29441

Great find on the bracket - it's a good solution to the problem. Very neat. :woot:
- Did you make the watch movement plugs yourself?
- More pictures please!!
- What are the tube runs like behind the GPU?
- Where and how is the pump mounted?
 
IMG_3624.JPG
IMG_3623.JPG
Finally done with the tempered glass window. I really wanted to keep the tool less panel removal - so I cut an opening on a black side panel, and taped a pre-cut sheet of smoke-tint tempered glass to the outside of the side panel using 3M tape.
 
Great find on the bracket - it's a good solution to the problem. Very neat. :woot:
- Did you make the watch movement plugs yourself?
- More pictures please!!
- What are the tube runs like behind the GPU?
- Where and how is the pump mounted?

The watch movement plugs are BARROW TJXDS-01.
Barrow-G1-4-Time-Series-Hand-tighten-the-lock-seal-sealing-plug-water-cooling-computer-fittings.jpg_640x640.jpg


I'll try to illustrate behind GPU card with my terribly English:)
The pump is supported rigidly by the inlet tube only, and contacts with the front frame through SORBOTHANE, as a insulator.
20170630_210214tube.jpg20170705_122117.jpg

A tube running from GPU to RAD is redundant to improve air flow.
At first, I had built like below;
20170612_201254.jpg 20170531_143452.jpg
The previous build was louder, and I learned the importance of air flow.:)


where you buy this feets? please!!!
I used two set of TL-45BB, TAKACHI ELECTRONICS ENCLOSURE CO.,LTD, JAPAN.
You can find similar products by this keywords, TILT FEET ENCLOSURE.
 
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The watch movement plugs are BARROW TJXDS-01.
Barrow-G1-4-Time-Series-Hand-tighten-the-lock-seal-sealing-plug-water-cooling-computer-fittings.jpg_640x640.jpg


I'll try to illustrate behind GPU card with my terribly English:)
The pump is supported rigidly by the inlet tube only, and contacts with the front frame through SORBOTHANE, as a insulator.
View attachment 29606View attachment 29605

A tube running from GPU to RAD is redundant to improve air flow.
At first, I had built like below;
View attachment 29603 View attachment 29604
The previous build was louder, and I learned the importance of air flow.:)



I used two set of TL-45BB, TAKACHI ELECTRONICS ENCLOSURE CO.,LTD, JAPAN.
You can find similar products by this keywords, TILT FEET ENCLOSURE.

Whats is the name of that mini "reservoir" you have there??
 
The watch movement plugs are BARROW TJXDS-01.
Barrow-G1-4-Time-Series-Hand-tighten-the-lock-seal-sealing-plug-water-cooling-computer-fittings.jpg_640x640.jpg


I'll try to illustrate behind GPU card with my terribly English:)
The pump is supported rigidly by the inlet tube only, and contacts with the front frame through SORBOTHANE, as a insulator.
View attachment 29606View attachment 29605

A tube running from GPU to RAD is redundant to improve air flow.
At first, I had built like below;
View attachment 29603 View attachment 29604
The previous build was louder, and I learned the importance of air flow.:)



I used two set of TL-45BB, TAKACHI ELECTRONICS ENCLOSURE CO.,LTD, JAPAN.
You can find similar products by this keywords, TILT FEET ENCLOSURE.

Awesome!

Thanks so much for the detail.
I had wondered if you went ahead and cut the case bottom out. I found that this was essential in allowing the radiator to breathe.

Also - I would not have expected the tubing to affect airflow that much. Very interesting.

Whats is the name of that mini "reservoir" you have there??
- This should be your part: Barrow YKLQT3
 
The watch movement plugs are BARROW TJXDS-01.
Barrow-G1-4-Time-Series-Hand-tighten-the-lock-seal-sealing-plug-water-cooling-computer-fittings.jpg_640x640.jpg


I'll try to illustrate behind GPU card with my terribly English:)
The pump is supported rigidly by the inlet tube only, and contacts with the front frame through SORBOTHANE, as a insulator.
View attachment 29606View attachment 29605

A tube running from GPU to RAD is redundant to improve air flow.
At first, I had built like below;
View attachment 29603 View attachment 29604
The previous build was louder, and I learned the importance of air flow.:)



I used two set of TL-45BB, TAKACHI ELECTRONICS ENCLOSURE CO.,LTD, JAPAN.
You can find similar products by this keywords, TILT FEET ENCLOSURE.
Nice build and thank you for the addition information!
How much bottom clearance do the TL-45BB give you?
 
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Awesome!

Thanks so much for the detail.
I had wondered if you went ahead and cut the case bottom out. I found that this was essential in allowing the radiator to breathe.

Also - I would not have expected the tubing to affect airflow that much. Very interesting.


- This should be your part: Barrow YKLQT3
The frames that I left behind had caused wind noises, for distant and angles to the impeller.
I had given up re-designing the bottom frames, and just removed them.

The affection of air flow was not little.
These mod made the fans worked 200RPM lower running Time Spy benchmark, and more silence.:)

Nice build and thank you for the addition information!
How much bottom clearance do the TL-45BB give you?
TL-45BB makes 46mm clearance under the bottom frame.
The technical drawing is here. http://www.takachi-enclosure.com/data/c1213/English_PDF_TITL.pdf
 
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It's too long at 320mm, you only have 317mm. The power connectors are recessed but the PCB is a full 140mm tall which would cause problems in the rear corner where the panel clip is. The height would be prohibitive. This GPU also requires 3 X 8 pin power connectors and 750watt. You would have to use a SFX-L PSU which causes it's own problems. I wouldn't attempt it.
 
The frames that I left behind had caused wind noises, for distant and angles to the impeller.
I had given up re-designing the bottom frames, and just removed them.

The affection of air flow was not little.
These mod made the fans worked 200RPM lower running Time Spy benchmark, and more silence.:)


TL-45BB makes 46mm clearance under the bottom frame.
The technical drawing is here. http://www.takachi-enclosure.com/data/c1213/English_PDF_TITL.pdf
Damn... I really need to cut open my case bottom...
As for the feet, are you worried about max loading weight per Takachi spec?
 
IMG_3653.JPG
Here is a concept riser I'm drawing up at the moment... it adds up to 50mm height. once I'm happy with the design, I'm thinking to 3D print these 4 parts (2x risers, and 2x struts). I wanted to make sure that the risers are strong enough by adding those three vertical ribs.
 
Here is a concept riser I'm drawing up at the moment... it adds up to 50mm height. once I'm happy with the design, I'm thinking to 3D print these 4 parts (2x risers, and 2x struts). I wanted to make sure that the risers are strong enough by adding those three vertical ribs.

That looks really good, hope it works out for you. Should definitely give you some breathing room underneath.
 
Here is a concept riser I'm drawing up at the moment... it adds up to 50mm height. once I'm happy with the design, I'm thinking to 3D print these 4 parts (2x risers, and 2x struts). I wanted to make sure that the risers are strong enough by adding those three vertical ribs.
TL-45 load capacity is 7kg in Takachi's catalog. But it seems that Takachi designed it with considerable margin.
20170706_071724.jpg
Two of 5kg counter weight and 8kg PC are supported without wobble.
It seems these stiffness depends on a strength of edges of case frame.

Your concept should work as expected.
 
Here is a concept riser I'm drawing up at the moment... it adds up to 50mm height. once I'm happy with the design, I'm thinking to 3D print these 4 parts (2x risers, and 2x struts). I wanted to make sure that the risers are strong enough by adding those three vertical ribs.

Nice render there :).

You know, the three ribs may not be necessary if you increase the thickness of the loop shaped supports especially at the root near the base of the case. The load path is really quite direct and the middle span of the loop is not really doing anything.
Really, you just want to add some stiffness against lateral deflection to make sure it's steady.
I wouldn't really know, but what do you think of raising the height of the "skirts" that run along the sides of the case. My though being the larger the gap here to the desk, the easier for airflow.

It's quite exciting that you're thinking of printing this though...
 
Nice render there :).

You know, the three ribs may not be necessary if you increase the thickness of the loop shaped supports especially at the root near the base of the case. The load path is really quite direct and the middle span of the loop is not really doing anything.
Really, you just want to add some stiffness against lateral deflection to make sure it's steady.
I wouldn't really know, but what do you think of raising the height of the "skirts" that run along the sides of the case. My though being the larger the gap here to the desk, the easier for airflow.

It's quite exciting that you're thinking of printing this though...
Thanks. I'm think that the "skirt" or struts are 25mm tall to hide external fans for additional pull exhaust. I may not need the skirt once I cut open the bottom like you / chai / others...
 
Thanks. I'm think that the "skirt" or struts are 25mm tall to hide external fans for additional pull exhaust. I may not need the skirt once I cut open the bottom like you / chai / others...

You won't be disappointed with the improvement if you do cut. It's a huge difference (y)
- Good point about the skirt. I hadn't considered that!
 
Try:
1- (i'm sure you already check this, but worth mentioning) - double check to make sure fans are spinning freely, and not obstructed by any cables.
2- adjust fan curves for lower rpm at expense of higher temps

Thanks for the response! It turns out that the 1080 Strix that I got had a faulty cooler. I ended up getting another one and it works a lot better. My temps stay at 70c (instead of 80c) and the fan speed is lower. I'm currently experimenting with my fans inside my case and undervolting my 1080 Strix to improve temperatures all around.

Just an FYI to everyone, if you're planning on buying a graphics card from Fry's Electronics, I would suggest looking elsewhere. The Fry's that I live next to recently changed their return policy on graphics cards due to the increased amount of people buying 1070s for Ethereum Mining and returning them before the return period expires. Basically, they're not accepting returns anymore unless the card is unopened. To make things worse, Fry's sold me a used Asus GTX 1080 Strix as new and they never told me that it was used/returned. I found out when I took it back to the store to get a refund and that's when I learned about their new return policy. I talked to a manager and he let me exchange it for an EVGA GTX 1080 SC because they didn't have anymore of the Asus cards back in stock. I just took the EVGA card and sold it on Craigslist unopened for a small loss.

I'm only buying my graphics cards from Micro Center, NewEgg and Amazon from now on. I'm sick of Fry's Electronics bullshit and I won't be giving them my business anymore.
 
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Does anyone know how much vertical clearance is necessary for an air cooler to not interfere with a SFX power supply?

Looking at the new Shadow Rock TF2 with a Asus Maximus VI Impact and it looks like this would extend by about 30mm over the end of the board so there would need to be at least 15mm between the bottom of the power supply and the mounting point of the cooler for it to fit.

Bad mockups here if interested
 
Very nice build and mods @chai99, congratulations!

Do you have references/links to the mini reservoirs your are using?
 
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Does anyone know how much vertical clearance is necessary for an air cooler to not interfere with a SFX power supply?

Looking at the new Shadow Rock TF2 with a Asus Maximus VI Impact and it looks like this would extend by about 30mm over the end of the board so there would need to be at least 15mm between the bottom of the power supply and the mounting point of the cooler for it to fit.

Bad mockups here if interested
Here you go:

ffJSegm.png


Subtracting 8mm for the CPU socket, we're left with 46.43mm. Per the Dark Rock TF 2 dimensions sheet, it needs 48.5mm of clearance, so it looks like it should just clear the PSU by a couple millimeters.
 
Hey all, new [H] member here. Been lurking for a little bit but made an account to post specifically in this thread.

I ordered my NCase M1 a couple weeks ago and it should be here soon, but I'm having a bit of trouble picking out a GPU. Specifically, a water-cooled GPU. The community spreadsheet doesn't appear to have any info on anything besides motherboards and fans / pumps and stuff.

So, for those who have built in an NCase M1, or have monitored this thread enough to know what fits...can I humbly request a bit of your time to fill in specific GPUs that you know fit? I was looking at the EVGA Hydro Copper 1080 but apparently it's too tall, so now I don't know which 1080 to get and which water cooling block to put on the GPU once I get one picked out.

Link is on NCase's site, can't figure out how to supply link without [H] auto-embedding or telling me it's a spam link.

(sheet embed deleted, didn't know [H] would do that and it's drastically slowing down the page for me sorry about that everyone).

Thanks, and awesome builds! Can't wait to build mine.

edit - holy shit, for some reason the tabs weren't displaying on my laptop did not see all the extra tabs!!!! My bad everyone. Exploring the sheet more.

...but if you see a GPU missing and you have it, by all means feel free to contribute :p
 
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Hey all, new [H] member here. Been lurking for a little bit but made an account to post specifically in this thread.

I ordered my NCase M1 a couple weeks ago and it should be here soon, but I'm having a bit of trouble picking out a GPU. Specifically, a water-cooled GPU. The community spreadsheet doesn't appear to have any info on anything besides motherboards and fans / pumps and stuff.

So, for those who have built in an NCase M1, or have monitored this thread enough to know what fits...can I humbly request a bit of your time to fill in specific GPUs that you know fit? I was looking at the EVGA Hydro Copper 1080 but apparently it's too tall, so now I don't know which 1080 to get and which water cooling block to put on the GPU once I get one picked out.

Thanks, and awesome builds! Can't wait to build mine.

edit - holy shit, for some reason the tabs weren't displaying on my laptop did not see all the extra tabs!!!! My bad everyone. Exploring the sheet more.

...but if you see a GPU missing and you have it, by all means feel free to contribute :p

The FE will fit of course, other than that look for cards that are no wider than 4.50". You have cards like the EVGA SC and the Gigabyte G1. None of the MSI other than the Aero will fit. Cards like the Strix and Amp Extreme would be too wide with a block. Most water blocks you find will be reference only, check EK's site because they make blocks for several non reference designs.
 
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