I think that FE units shouldn't have that much sagging weight on the blower end, and also I'm not entirely sure if by doing this you are really helping the blower card. With open air cooler, you prevent recycling of hot air by this partition, but with a blower you would block it from taking fresh air from the side in horizontal position.
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SENTRY: Console-sized gaming PC case project
- Thread starter SaperPL
- Start date
I think that FE units shouldn't have that much sagging weight on the blower end, and also I'm not entirely sure if by doing this you are really helping the blower card. With open air cooler, you prevent recycling of hot air by this partition, but with a blower you would block it from taking fresh air from the side in horizontal position.
My idea for the 1080ti is to use the open air evga sc and use chambers like shown in the picture that was posted. Add some 40 m fans to the top of gpu area and close off the CPU and gpu compartment. With that I think it should have plenty of positive pressure and plenty of hot air moving away from the intakes. I'm wanting to stay with a 65tdp on the CPU and I haven't came up with a sure fire plan for the airflow in that side. I have thought about cutting out 120m circles and riveting in a custom steel or aluminum cover or backing to hook up 2 120m fans on the CPU side blowing air in from the outside. I really need my case to see what that would look like and if it would take away too much stability of the case. If it worked good and I thought it would hold up good without flex. I might drop a higher tdp CPU in and have an extreme small form factor case with a minor protrusion on one side
There's a hollow air pocket above the gpu. If you don't have your Sentry yet you'll see what I mean when you get it. So thermal pads wouldn't do much, if anything it would trap more heat. Gpu temps really aren't bad with my 1080. You will only (maybe) need to get creative if you're running a 1080ti.
Santiago Montesdeoca
n00b
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2016
- Messages
- 4
Has anyone tried the is-40 v3 cooler with ryzen yet?
I'm contemplating getting this cooler here in Asia, but wanted to check if you have had any experiences yet.
Anything you can share is welcome.
I'm contemplating getting this cooler here in Asia, but wanted to check if you have had any experiences yet.
Anything you can share is welcome.
Just a follow up on my previous post, to clarify why I thought that Ar05 or is-40 v3 are better choice than l9i, this review that compares ar05 and l9i:
https://www.nikktech.com/main/artic...ow-profile-cpu-cooler-review?showall=&start=5
Note silverstone has 9 degrees lower temperature and lower noise. It's also better than lp53 which is proved to be better than noctua.
Now this review that compares ar05 and is-40 v3:
https://smallformfactor.net/reviews/cooling/china-desk-id-cooling-40-40-v3
is-40 v3 has 6 degrees lower temperatures than ar05. Now, I know that that isn't the whole story, but still it should be considerably better, and it's also very cheap, 25 usd with worldwide free shipping. It's not surprising since it has 4 heatpipes vs two on noctua and silverstone.
I'm sorry if I'm boring or off topic, just wanted to see thoughts on others on this reviews I've posted, and if I'm missing something. I have is-40 v3 coming and ryzen 1500x ready to be tested, I can compare to stock wraith spire, arctic coling alpine 64pro and eventually zalman cnps7x. I know that they are not low profile coolers but that's what I got laying around at home
riba2233
Weaksauce
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- May 7, 2017
- Messages
- 69
Ok I will post some results when I get back home. It's a bit worse than wraith spire.
Hi guys,
I see some people are asking how the gtx 1080ti is performing in the sentry. I had my doubts as well, but I took the risk and I bought it. So I could share my impressions until now.
I have a gtx 1080ti Founders Edition and my sentry is in vertical position.
I tested it with The Witcher 3. The card was working at a 100%, stable on 84 ºC and surprisingly the boost clock speed was above the card specs. Instead of 1582MHz, it was hitting between 1600MHz and 1700MHz. Although, I have to say the card is really hot and the sentry case gets so hot on the area around the GPU you can't keep your hand there for more than a second.
Since It is a blower style card, it does not affect the CPU temps. I wouldn't recommend other than a blower style card. I have a i5 6600k cooled by a noctua nh-l9i and it runs happy around 60 ºC while playing, you won't want the extra heat coming from the GPU to ruin that. Although the CPU can hit 85 ºC when used 100% in some areas of The Witcher 3 (cities mainly).
My conclusions. 1080ti FE thumbs up, but use an extra fan for yourself in summer, because otherwise you are gonna sweat with the heat that comes out from the Sentry haha
I see some people are asking how the gtx 1080ti is performing in the sentry. I had my doubts as well, but I took the risk and I bought it. So I could share my impressions until now.
I have a gtx 1080ti Founders Edition and my sentry is in vertical position.
I tested it with The Witcher 3. The card was working at a 100%, stable on 84 ºC and surprisingly the boost clock speed was above the card specs. Instead of 1582MHz, it was hitting between 1600MHz and 1700MHz. Although, I have to say the card is really hot and the sentry case gets so hot on the area around the GPU you can't keep your hand there for more than a second.
Since It is a blower style card, it does not affect the CPU temps. I wouldn't recommend other than a blower style card. I have a i5 6600k cooled by a noctua nh-l9i and it runs happy around 60 ºC while playing, you won't want the extra heat coming from the GPU to ruin that. Although the CPU can hit 85 ºC when used 100% in some areas of The Witcher 3 (cities mainly).
My conclusions. 1080ti FE thumbs up, but use an extra fan for yourself in summer, because otherwise you are gonna sweat with the heat that comes out from the Sentry haha
jisaku_taro
n00b
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2017
- Messages
- 16
For those of you using LP53 and Noctua NF-A9x14, how are you attaching the fan to the LP53? and do you have any pictures?
I've read about rubber bands, cable ties, and I saw a pic of something that looked like wire.
I would especially appreciate any close up photos as well. I have a LP53/A9x14, and I am trying to work out the best way to attach them while I await the final parts of my build to get shipped in.
Thanks!
I've read about rubber bands, cable ties, and I saw a pic of something that looked like wire.
I would especially appreciate any close up photos as well. I have a LP53/A9x14, and I am trying to work out the best way to attach them while I await the final parts of my build to get shipped in.
Thanks!
zerodeefex
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2008
- Messages
- 264
Has anyone posted delid results with a Kaby Lake system?
I should have ordered the white case. Order 562 dual black cases and I haven't even been part of a shipping batch. I planned on a June build but I suspect my case will ship in mid July and arrive in the US in September. I might be posting at least one sentry for sale and might just sell both.
I should have ordered the white case. Order 562 dual black cases and I haven't even been part of a shipping batch. I planned on a June build but I suspect my case will ship in mid July and arrive in the US in September. I might be posting at least one sentry for sale and might just sell both.
This is the kind of info I was looking for before I pulled the trigger on the 1080 Ti. I believe the wait for Vega is over, and I'll be buying the 1080 Ti soon.Hi guys,
I see some people are asking how the gtx 1080ti is performing in the sentry. I had my doubts as well, but I took the risk and I bought it. So I could share my impressions until now.
I have a gtx 1080ti Founders Edition and my sentry is in vertical position.
I tested it with The Witcher 3. The card was working at a 100%, stable on 84 ºC and surprisingly the boost clock speed was above the card specs. Instead of 1582MHz, it was hitting between 1600MHz and 1700MHz. Although, I have to say the card is really hot and the sentry case gets so hot on the area around the GPU you can't keep your hand there for more than a second.
Since It is a blower style card, it does not affect the CPU temps. I wouldn't recommend other than a blower style card. I have a i5 6600k cooled by a noctua nh-l9i and it runs happy around 60 ºC while playing, you won't want the extra heat coming from the GPU to ruin that. Although the CPU can hit 85 ºC when used 100% in some areas of The Witcher 3 (cities mainly).
My conclusions. 1080ti FE thumbs up, but use an extra fan for yourself in summer, because otherwise you are gonna sweat with the heat that comes out from the Sentry haha
I thought they were on batch 5 out of 7 shouldn't they have covered you already? 5/7
It may be slightly more complicated than purely order number. For example, if they didn't have enough cases to send both at once it may have been pushed back to the next shipment.
Got all my parts, started building. Damn M2 screws are tiny.
Saper: Ran into first tiny issue/annoyance - I'm building in horizontal orientation.
The little rubber feet don't feel very secure. 1 out of the 4 feet keeps falling out of it's hole every time I move the case. I've tried spreading the rubber "+" that inserts into the inside of the case from the feet, but it still feels loose.
Not a big deal, when i finish the build it will just sit there and the case won't be moving much. But just a little annoying while i'm moving the case around as I'm doing the build, need to make sure it doesn't fall out and roll away.
Edit: Ah, i'm dumb. I didn't realize you are supposed to stick those little black plastic sticks through the underside of the rubber stand. The manual doesn't show them, so i thought they were for something else
Saper: Ran into first tiny issue/annoyance - I'm building in horizontal orientation.
The little rubber feet don't feel very secure. 1 out of the 4 feet keeps falling out of it's hole every time I move the case. I've tried spreading the rubber "+" that inserts into the inside of the case from the feet, but it still feels loose.
Not a big deal, when i finish the build it will just sit there and the case won't be moving much. But just a little annoying while i'm moving the case around as I'm doing the build, need to make sure it doesn't fall out and roll away.
Edit: Ah, i'm dumb. I didn't realize you are supposed to stick those little black plastic sticks through the underside of the rubber stand. The manual doesn't show them, so i thought they were for something else
MrNateTheGreat
n00b
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2016
- Messages
- 36
I can't get a picture right now, but I just used some copper wire to attach the fan to the lp53. Feed it through and around a heat pipe, then leave yourself slack and get a couple twists, then snip off the excess. It lines up pretty easy and wasn't hard to do. It's very secure on there and has worked great for me. Can get a spool of thin gage copper wire on Amazon and I recommend hakko flush cutters. They're a dream to use and cheap on Amazon. Any of the hakko red handle cutters or pliers are simply fantastic.
Justice Ranger
n00b
- Joined
- May 24, 2017
- Messages
- 32
Unfortunately, it will be 7 weeks tomorrow since leaving Poland for me here in the US.
zerodeefex
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2008
- Messages
- 264
Poland by boat has taken me 8 weeks when I lived in California. It's basically like throwing your item into a black hole until it clears customs in the US.
Nope. Looks like I'm near the end of the train. I definitely would have done white or white and black if I had known production would work this way.
riba2233
Weaksauce
- Joined
- May 7, 2017
- Messages
- 69
As promised, is40 v3 vs amd wraith spire cooler on ryzen 1500x, stock and overclocked to 3.9 on 1.375V. Both were tested in same conditions, aida64 fpu for 8 minutes, in old case without ventilation and side cover off (I will post setup picture later, it's on my other computer).
They were working on same fan curve, that puts fans to max after cpu reaches 70C.
Wraith spins at around 2700 max, and is40 v3 at around 2950 rpm and it's slightly louder, but now I'm using it with resistor which limits it's rpm to 2300 and at that rpm it's not loud, and noise is pleasant.
Note that the spire is almost twice the height of is40 v3, and has much larger thermal mass and fan. Also, fins on is40 v3 are oriented perpendicular to the RAM, so it's blowing air into RAM and IO shield while spire blows in all directions.
I've used mx2 paste on is40 v3, and stock paste on wraith.
Results:
Wraith stock:
Is 40 v3 stock:
Wraith overclocked:
Is 40 v3 overclocked:
EDIT: Setup picture:
I'm sorry if this is off-topic, but this is one of the rare coolers that come with am4 brackets and fit well below 47mm height restriction. Also it's very cheap at 25 USD with free worldwide shipping. I'm waiting for noctua 92mm slim fan so I'll compare if it offers any benefits over stock Is 40 v3 fan. I'm also planning on shortening wraith spire and using it with noctua fan and see if that performs better. Also if anyone has an extra wraith spire cooler which he would like to sell I'm going to test two versions of shortened wraith spire cooler, one with let's say taller heatsink and lower fan, and one with lower heatsink and higher fan, to see what option offers better performance. Of course both variations will be below 47mm.
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I thought that was fairly obvious, sorry. I'll keep that in mind for future update of the manual.
Today i called twice to our contact in transport company. I also wrote a detailed report with tracking numbers for packages from 1st transport which still weren't delivered. I was assured that this situation will be investigated and i'll get a response.
It is really weird, not because some people from this 1st transport still didn't get their packages, but because all of those non-EU packages we sent together. There was no more space on the ship, so they split the transport? Customs stopped some of the packages for additional check? We're waiting for explanation, and when we'll get some new information, i will let you know.
For anyone looking for a non Biostar AM4 Mini ITX motherboard, there is currently a review up for the Gigabyte AB350N-Gaming WiFi. This likely means that it will be launching within the next few days. ASRock's board is not supposed to launch until July 15th. Review is posted below.
LanOC: https://lanoc.org/review/motherboards/7570-gigabyte-ab350n-gaming-wifi
LanOC: https://lanoc.org/review/motherboards/7570-gigabyte-ab350n-gaming-wifi
AsRock's board offers little to nothing over the Gygabyte for the sentry.
Santiago Montesdeoca
n00b
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2016
- Messages
- 4
As promised, is40 v3 vs amd wraith spire cooler on ryzen 1500x, stock and overclocked to 3.9 on 1.375V. Both were tested in same conditions, aida64 fpu for 8 minutes, in old case without ventilation and side cover off (I will post setup picture later, it's on my other computer).
They were working on same fan curve, that puts fans to max after cpu reaches 70C.
Wraith spins at around 2700 max, and is40 v3 at around 2950 rpm and it's slightly louder, but now I'm using it with resistor which limits it's rpm to 2300 and at that rpm it's not loud, and noise is pleasant.
Note that the spire is almost twice the height of is40 v3, and has much larger thermal mass and fan. Also, fins on is40 v3 are oriented perpendicular to the RAM, so it's blowing air into RAM and IO shield while spire blows in all directions.
I've used mx2 paste on is40 v3, and stock paste on wraith.
Results:
Wraith stock:
Is 40 v3 stock:
Wraith overclocked:
Is 40 v3 overclocked:
I'm sorry if this is off-topic, but this is one of the rare coolers that come with am4 brackets and fit well below 47mm height restriction. Also it's very cheap at 25 USD with free worldwide shipping. I'm waiting for noctua 92mm slim fan so I'll compare if it offers any benefits over stock Is 40 v3 fan. I'm also planning on shortening wraith spire and using it with noctua fan and see if that performs better. Also if anyone has an extra wraith spire cooler which he would like to sell I'm going to test two versions of shortened wraith spire cooler, one with let's say taller heatsink and lower fan, and one with lower heatsink and higher fan, to see what option offers better performance. Of course both variations will be below 47mm.
This is great information, thank you riba2233!
Would you recommend the ID-Cooling IS-40 v3 cooler over the Noctua nh-l9i in a tropical climate, on the Sentry?
Except a UEFI that doesn't make you want to tear your hair out.
I've gotten frustrated by so many Gigabyte boards over the years hiding settings under headers that make no sense.
Yeah it's looking like the Gigabyte board is the better mITX mobo. USB 3.1 Gen 1 and 2, and a Gen 1 header is a plus for I/O "future proofing". However not a huge fan of the placement of the 8-pin, 24-pin, and sata connectors over the ASRock board. Still up for the cable management tho! Man tuff decision for me.
Also is there any real or tangible difference between a RealTec and Intel LAN port?
Also is there any real or tangible difference between a RealTec and Intel LAN port?
So i have an Asus motherboard, and it has one of those nice Q-cable (front panel) extender/quick disconnect cables.
This thing:
https://dlcdnimgs.asus.com/websites/global/products/b0824fxzvaoAOIyb/Q_Cable.jpg
Makes it easier to plug in Power led+, Power led-, and Power SW front panel cables on to mobo all at once instead of fiddling with each plug individually.
The problem is that Sentry doesn't have ResetSW and HDD LED, so the Q-cable has 4 pins sticking out. To avoid any possible short with metal Sentry body, I'm guessing I need to wrap those 4 pins in some electrical tape right?
Corsair PSU cables are a pain in the ass. Doing multiple dry runs to make sure I have all the cables laid out correctly and in the right order before I start plugging in stuff
This thing:
https://dlcdnimgs.asus.com/websites/global/products/b0824fxzvaoAOIyb/Q_Cable.jpg
Makes it easier to plug in Power led+, Power led-, and Power SW front panel cables on to mobo all at once instead of fiddling with each plug individually.
The problem is that Sentry doesn't have ResetSW and HDD LED, so the Q-cable has 4 pins sticking out. To avoid any possible short with metal Sentry body, I'm guessing I need to wrap those 4 pins in some electrical tape right?
Corsair PSU cables are a pain in the ass. Doing multiple dry runs to make sure I have all the cables laid out correctly and in the right order before I start plugging in stuff
ohchanghyeon
n00b
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2016
- Messages
- 26
The 8 and 24pin placement are really tough to work with. Especially the 8 pin. What were the thinking? That's a strange placement in any setup, not just a sff case like Sentry.
Usb 3.1 gen 1 is what they call usb 3.0 (5gbps) now, so it's really just the standard 20 pin header we've had for years. Gen 2 is the faster 10 gbps, at least they have one on the rear i/o.
As for Lan, in my experience, Intel Lan controllers are better. Lower cpu usage and thus smoother performance is the main difference you'd notice. The review linked above does say the wired Realtek nic is slower than others. But overall, for a standard desktop I guess Realtek is fine. For a Nas, server, or network appliance you need Intel without a doubt. Though I doubt many Sentry backers are building NAS's.
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But SaperPL himself said the placement of the pin on the Gigabyte board would actually work better with the sentry. Now I can't find the post where he said it or was it ZombiePL? I don't remember but I am sure they made a comment about how it would work fine because of the gap at the bottom of the sentry
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Asrock Fatality X370 Product Page is up and they said the gigabyte would be out the first week of July.
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If you want to keep everything organized and save as much space as possible by not having to use dongles the Asrock board is a horrible choice very little I/O. For non-business internet use (like servers) RealTec should be fine.
Sliding the cpu power cable under the sentry is totally doable (at least with my 4pin it is) so yeah it won't be too bad. I feel like the amd cpu cooler keep-out zone on am4 is huge compared to Intel 115x. It looks like that's why some things, like the 8 pin, are in unorthodox places on some boards.
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Meanwhile I'm getting more annoyed by the fact that I rushed my shopping for Sentry:
1) Guys from biostar couldn't tell me when will it be available in Poland so i bought the board from german distribution and when I got it week later, it was already in our shops...
2) Trying to manually set up memory to their settings most likely broke one of my sticks of ram and I'm waiting with zero news about the RMA for over three weeks now
3) Asked biostar when will they roll out the bios update for the board as all other X370 boards on their page have the agesa 1.0.0.6 bioses already - they responded with something like "it's not available yet" ...
4) My memory sticks look to be ones of the omitted from agesa update bringing more compatibility and I have no idea if their XMP will work after the update or not.
5) I've got like $800 worth of hardware sitting on my desk and waiting for the memory to come back from RMA...
So be careful with ram choice for ryzen and maybe wait for other boards than X370GTN
1) Guys from biostar couldn't tell me when will it be available in Poland so i bought the board from german distribution and when I got it week later, it was already in our shops...
2) Trying to manually set up memory to their settings most likely broke one of my sticks of ram and I'm waiting with zero news about the RMA for over three weeks now
3) Asked biostar when will they roll out the bios update for the board as all other X370 boards on their page have the agesa 1.0.0.6 bioses already - they responded with something like "it's not available yet" ...
4) My memory sticks look to be ones of the omitted from agesa update bringing more compatibility and I have no idea if their XMP will work after the update or not.
5) I've got like $800 worth of hardware sitting on my desk and waiting for the memory to come back from RMA...
So be careful with ram choice for ryzen and maybe wait for other boards than X370GTN
Hey guys!
Help me out a little bit here? I've got one last piece before my build is "complete" (in terms of what my ultimate plans for it were), and that's the power button.
I was originally going to wait for an RGB vandal switch, but it looks like it's going to be a long time before iFreilicht finishes the Iris 16, and the indie version I bought came in the wrong size, unwired, and the maker refused to respond to any contact. So, here's what I'm looking for:
1) 16mm Vandal Switch; silver or black should both work.
2) Flat face, not rounded (flat button face; the beveled edges are fine)
3) White LED
4) Prewired (I suppose I can do without it, but the only soldering iron I have access to right now was not designed for small electronics.)
5) Clicky. Is this even a thing? I would like this to be a thing - but the only ones I can find are a) not LED and more importantly b) not momentary.
Anybody have a suggestion? It's probably just because I'm tired, but my Google-Fu is failing me.
Help me out a little bit here? I've got one last piece before my build is "complete" (in terms of what my ultimate plans for it were), and that's the power button.
I was originally going to wait for an RGB vandal switch, but it looks like it's going to be a long time before iFreilicht finishes the Iris 16, and the indie version I bought came in the wrong size, unwired, and the maker refused to respond to any contact. So, here's what I'm looking for:
1) 16mm Vandal Switch; silver or black should both work.
2) Flat face, not rounded (flat button face; the beveled edges are fine)
3) White LED
4) Prewired (I suppose I can do without it, but the only soldering iron I have access to right now was not designed for small electronics.)
5) Clicky. Is this even a thing? I would like this to be a thing - but the only ones I can find are a) not LED and more importantly b) not momentary.
Anybody have a suggestion? It's probably just because I'm tired, but my Google-Fu is failing me.
That... sucks. Got no other words to describe it, it just sucks. You have my sympathy.
Hello everybody.
I won't be able to populate my Sentry and that's why I decided to sell my Indiegogo account. I am from the Long Run, so you can still edit the address on the Indiegogo order.
If you are interested, please send me a private message with your offer. I will not answer to messages without an offer.
Regards
P.S. I will, of course, provide proof.
I won't be able to populate my Sentry and that's why I decided to sell my Indiegogo account. I am from the Long Run, so you can still edit the address on the Indiegogo order.
If you are interested, please send me a private message with your offer. I will not answer to messages without an offer.
Regards
P.S. I will, of course, provide proof.
Getting the riser card slotted into the rectangular hole properly:
Just to expand on this - what worked for me:
Before inserting the riser card into the hole, take a long screwdriver and stick it through the riser hole and torque that skinny flat piece of metal a little bit. Don't use the blade of the screwdriver, it'll scratch the paint. Just use the metal shaft of the screwdriver and torque it up and down a little bit against the top cross beam.
It'll widen the rectangular gap for the riser card a few mm so you can slide the plastic rectangular body of the riser card through and it'll slot in nice and tight against the precut notches.
ohchanghyeon
n00b
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2016
- Messages
- 26
