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Which country are you in?Just received! Thank you Zaber!
Russia
Wow that Destiny Skin with the topography is sexy af! Is that custom/purchasable or is it a special edition ps4?Just received! Thank you Zaber!
Here is what I recommend: Get a SFX power supply like the corsair SF600 and you will have enough space to place the SSD next to the power supply. That way it will not sit above the motherboard. To do so you might need custom cables. I have looked into it and I don't have any sources right now but I am sure the SSD heat dissipation is much better than the M.2. I would never choose an M.2 over an SSD unless I absolutely need the fastest speeds and the smallest size. Definately not if heat is what I am worried about. M.2. are in contact with your motherboard so they will make the motherboard hotter while SSD is not in contact so it will only make the air hotter.
Here is a small update what I plan to do with the HSLP-48 in the next weeks.
I will test the following setups all CPUs @ default clock:
I will test the HSLP-48 against these heatsinks:
- AM4 (1700x)
- 1151 (7700k)
- 2011-3 (5820K)
- Asetek 92mm AIO (AM4, 2011-3, 1151)
- Cryorig C7 (AM4, 1151)
- Noctua L9i (AM4, 1151)
- Dynatron T318 (2011-3)
- Thermalright AXP 100 (AM4, 2011-3, 1151)
I will test the HSLP-48 Copper and Alu version following fans:
I will test the following fan modes:
- A9x14 (92mm)
- TY-100 (100mm)
- SY1212SL12H (120mm)
- A12x15 (120mm)
- under the heatsink sucking through it
- under the heatsink blowing through it
- on the heatsink blowing through it
- sandwich mode
- different fan speeds
What I can say about the Lian Li samples, the quality is great for a prototype, but they forgot to include the 2011-3/AM3 retention bracket. They forgot to add a thread on the 1151 brackets so I can't use them. Therefore I use my Thermalright retention kit that I have for all sockets. What luck the Thermalright retention kits are full compatible to the HSLP-48 XD
I have to improve the fan clips because the two ends that go inside the heatsink are very short. I have to make them longer to better secure the fan. I also plan to add more holes for the clips to better support different thickness of fans.
I think I will get the CoolJag samples tomorrow, I hope they did a better job on the retention brackets.
I am thinking of outsourcing the retention kits to Thermalright if they can offer a good price. The brackets are the most complicated part on this project and it could be a good idea also for future compatibility. I will ask Lian Li if they can get in touch with them and I don’t have to take the route over the German contact.
Preview
Here is small preview of tests on the copper version I did today. All values are not comparable to older result, because I run the CPU (i7 5820K 140W TDP) on default clock (3.4GHz) and voltage. Older tests was made with 3GHz and lower voltage. The Dynatron T318 will reach ~80°C on default clock and voltage.
Prime95 v26.6 8K Test – 15min each
Heatsink------------Fan---------------Position-----Mode----------RPM--------Room Temp--------Core Temp
HSLP-48 Copper.....A9x14...............Under......Pushing..........2600..............25........................74 °C
HSLP-48 Copper.....A9x14...............Under......Sucking..........2600..............25........................65,8°C
HSLP-48 Copper.....TY-100..............Under......Pushing..........2400..............25....................... 65°C
HSLP-48 Copper.....TY-100..............Under......Sucking..........2400..............25........................63,8°C
HSLP-48 Copper.....SY1212SL12H..Under......Sucking..........2000..............25....................... 65,2°C
HSLP-48 Copper.....A12x15..............Top..........Pushing.........1800..............25........................63,5°C
HSLP-48 Copper.....A12x15..............Top..........Pushing...........900..............25........................73,5°C
Maybe you wonder why the A9x14 performs not good in pushing mode. I think the fan has a bad pressure and isn't able to push enough air through the fins in this mode. What I think is realy crazy that the heatsink is able to cool a six core i7 in Prime95 with the new A12x15 on top with only 900 RPM at 73°C. I am nure sure if any other heatsink with a height of 63mm is able to do that.
Some pictures
Is it noisy? What is the room temperature?
Do you know where i can buy one of these?Ok so my is-40 v3 arrived much sooner than I've expected (in like 10 days from China to Croatia, that's pretty good)! So I'll be able to test it soon, during next week. AM4 brackets are included, although cooler is oriented so that fins are perpendicular to RAM and IO backplate. You also get a tube of thermal paste, I could also test that if anyone's interested. Packing is nice and sturdy.
Pictures:
Great post, thanks for the tips!Okay, here we go! My new power supply showed up just in time - getting to build in my Sentry yesterday made for an awesome birthday present. I took a few pictures of the process, but really... we've all seen that before. I decided to bring a bit of a different perspective and stress test my Sentry for you. How does one stress test a computer case, you ask?
Simple! You get drunk, and see what parts of building in the case make you stressed.
Without further ado, here it goes. This is going to be in list style, not narrative, because I didn't take pictures of quite everything I should have.
1) The power supply button sleeving is an area for QA to keep an eye on:
Obviously, that's less than ideal. It actually caused me a little bit of panic later, but in the end, all was well. I'm not particularly worried about it, because I plan on replacing my power button anyways, but it's something to watch for with QA - just giving you guys a heads up,
2) Considering using a SFX-L power supply? Don't.
I mean it:
Seriously though. This was possibly one of the most tricky wiring jobs that I've ever had; and that's saying a lot considering how bad the RVZ 01 is. I was actually very tempted to leave off the USB 3.0 connector just because it was taking up so much room. Turns out, I probably should have done exactly that, but I'll get to that in a minute.
The only super nice part of writing this build was that because there was enough room between the motherboard and the side of the PSU, and that I had flat cables, that I still had limited access to my front panel connector panels and SATA connectors. This turned out to be particularly useful when I finished the build and it wouldn't turn on. I freaked out, checked the power supply switch, and started to blame the power button... before I realized I had just plugged it into the wrong two pins. Thankfully I didn't even have to undo anything to fix it!
3) The Ikya style manual-insert... needs work.
Alright, I don't actually have pictures for this, but I do have a couple thoughts about it. First of all, there are going to be plenty of us who have enough arrogance that, because we've read the manual in the past / think we don't need it while building, will simply refer to the step-by-step pictographs to build with. That's not a problem in of itself, but there are a few things I want to point out with it.
I get now why people were getting confused when putting in the PCIe riser. The picture for that wasn't the clearest - it basically just said, "stick it in there and screw it down." A revision of this ought to include a detailed picture of EXACTLY how far in it goes: when it's done correctly, there is zero black PCIe slot sticking out beyond the crossbar; it sits entirely under it. (Also, I vaguely recall you guys mentioning something in this forum about notches in the PCB? Dunno what the deal with that was, but I just tried to ignore it because it would have confused me further.)
The other thing that I'd really like to see are wiring instructions included. There are a lot of wires that basically can't be routed after you complete a certain step, and knowing when to route those wires could make life a lot easier. For future builders, use this as a wiring guide:
- Install the motherboard (including CPU and RAM) and plug in the 8-pin EPS, 24-pin mobo power, power button, and any sata connections you need.
- Install the power supply. Plug the 24-pin power into it, but don't plug in the 8-pin yet; leave it hanging out on the other side of the motherboard.
- Install the USB 3.0 front panel and cable, pushing it down as much as you possibly can. The curve is really tight.
- Install the PCIe riser and the first drive, then route the 8-pin power under it and plug it in. Plug in the PCIe power cables and let them cross to the GPU side.
- Plug in the SATA power, then install the second drive if you have one, and connect SATA and power to both drives.
- Finally, Install the GPU and plug in the power connectors. Wiring should be done.
4) Remember what I said about the USB 3.0 cable?
Yeah, it's a bit of a bastard. Take a look at how tall it is in the picture above, and now check out what my SSD looked like before pushing it down enough to screw it in.
I don't know that there's anything that can be done about this, but it's a bit of a bloody pain. It's also just something for builders to keep an eye on; you're going to have to squish some cables to make a fully loaded build work in this case.
5) Some good news? The graphics card is nothing like the entire rest of the build process.
Look at that. After fighting with everything else (Especially the SATA power, that was a pain), I have this huge, empty compartment that the graphics card just slots into, power cables ready to go. It was glorious.
6) And finally, my biggest stress of the entire build: unlabeled screws.
Seriously though. The only thing that actually nailed me in this entire drunken stress test was that the screws are totally unlabeled. I have a fair bit of experience and I don't think that I used a 6-32 anywhere I needed an M3, but I also didn't know where I was supposed to use the black screws vs the silver screws, and the two bags of black screws looked totally identical.
What I would absolutely love to see is going further down the Ikya route, where each screw has a letter in the list of parts, and then every step of the pictograph told you what letter screws to use... but hell, even just labels on the baggies saying "Spare Case Screws" "Drive Screws" "Motherboard" "PCIe Riser" would be nice.
Just give me something, here.
Now. That was a pretty long list of bitches, so what does it actually come down to? Well, the screws were the only issue that actually annoyed me - the others were more suggestions of where improvement could be found. Here are some of the things that I absolutely loved about the case:
- Using the top of the case to mount the graphics card is innovative, makes the process super easy, and feels very secure.
- The stand... I don't even know what to say about it. The stand is perfect. It feels totally sturdy when it's on, and takes just enough to remove that it feels secure without being in any way difficult; in fact, putting the stand on and off is super easy and really really satisfying for some reason.
To wrap it up, a couple glory pictures. My desk isn't nearly as clean and gorgeous as any of the ones we've seen so far; it makes me feel sort of ashamed... but hey, it's more like a workshop than a battlestation, anyways. It works for me.
- The fit and finish of this case is wonderful. One of the things that I noticed is how the outside of every screw hole is oblong, not round, so there's a bit of wiggle room for parts lining up. That's a really nice touch. (Though it does mean that you can put the outside shell on a bit too far back and have a bit of a gap. Easy enough to fix, and more than worth having to fight the case to fit together.)
Ugh, the mess:
Doesn't look too bad from the other angle, though. It goes great with the server that just got moved in here for more regular maintenance.
Just imagine there's a second monitor in there; I sold it to a friend and have been waiting to buy a new one until I can get something really nice. I love my 1440p Iiyama, but I really miss the smoothness of a high refresh rate. I'm hoping to eventually get the 1440p gsync HDR ultrawide that Asus announced at Computex.
This was 112% worth the money in time, and I couldn't be any happier with it.
I know that I said I'd do some benchmarks of pcie cables, but unfortunately the drunk-stress-testing got in the way of that. I do, however, have the cable, so if anybody wants to test it out, all they have to do is pay shipping from the west coast USA and it's theirs; I'm not going to be using it anytime soon. (*And that should be fairly cheap; it can just go in a bubble wrap envelope.)
1) The power supply button sleeving is an area for QA to keep an eye on:
Obviously, that's less than ideal. It actually caused me a little bit of panic later, but in the end, all was well. I'm not particularly worried about it, because I plan on replacing my power button anyways, but it's something to watch for with QA - just giving you guys a heads up,
the more the better I will just add something to your cable issue:
If you disassemble the sleeving from power cable, it looks just like you showed. Black rubber on the red/black sleeving is hiding and squeezing end of it so it shouldn't move. Sleeving shouldn't go from end to end, because you need some space to manipulate cable connectors and the cable itself without damaging the power button's soldering.
In other words: We couldn't go with the shrinkable rubber sleeving all over the back of power button because after heat-treatment this rubber becomes very stiff. Because of that, you could damage the soldering while manipulating with cable. That is why there is a little bit of space from the back of power button to the sleeving itself. If you will try to "stretch" the sleeving, you will simply dissasemble it, just like you did, and this is normal. Just put the rubber back on the sleeving
p.s. of course we are writing down every ideas, about what could be improved in the future
Yeah, but because fan is under the radiator itself, i forced to use tiniest mosfet heatsinks, that means they will be way less effective, and I'm not ready to lose stock vrm. Idea itself maybe not great, but not so bad either. Unfortunately, to do this I must fully disassemble the case, find those heatsinks, buy new thermal pads, reapply thermal paste (cause i can't swap fans w/o detaching the cooler) etc. Easiest way - buy new cooler and add it with next upgrade (maybe ssd space or videocard, or even led strips
)
Quick question: Did you try to slide "push-pins" installed in the stand? You have to press those two screws in and push them to one of the sides to lock the stand.
Okay, here we go! My new power supply showed up just in time - getting to build in my Sentry yesterday made for an awesome birthday present. I took a few pictures of the process, but really... we've all seen that before. I decided to bring a bit of a different perspective and stress test my Sentry for you. How does one stress test a computer case, you ask?
Simple! You get drunk, and see what parts of building in the case make you stressed.
Without further ado, here it goes. This is going to be in list style, not narrative, because I didn't take pictures of quite everything I should have.
1) The power supply button sleeving is an area for QA to keep an eye on:
Obviously, that's less than ideal. It actually caused me a little bit of panic later, but in the end, all was well. I'm not particularly worried about it, because I plan on replacing my power button anyways, but it's something to watch for with QA - just giving you guys a heads up,
2) Considering using a SFX-L power supply? Don't.
I mean it:
Seriously though. This was possibly one of the most tricky wiring jobs that I've ever had; and that's saying a lot considering how bad the RVZ 01 is. I was actually very tempted to leave off the USB 3.0 connector just because it was taking up so much room. Turns out, I probably should have done exactly that, but I'll get to that in a minute.
The only super nice part of writing this build was that because there was enough room between the motherboard and the side of the PSU, and that I had flat cables, that I still had limited access to my front panel connector panels and SATA connectors. This turned out to be particularly useful when I finished the build and it wouldn't turn on. I freaked out, checked the power supply switch, and started to blame the power button... before I realized I had just plugged it into the wrong two pins. Thankfully I didn't even have to undo anything to fix it!
3) The Ikya style manual-insert... needs work.
Alright, I don't actually have pictures for this, but I do have a couple thoughts about it. First of all, there are going to be plenty of us who have enough arrogance that, because we've read the manual in the past / think we don't need it while building, will simply refer to the step-by-step pictographs to build with. That's not a problem in of itself, but there are a few things I want to point out with it.
I get now why people were getting confused when putting in the PCIe riser. The picture for that wasn't the clearest - it basically just said, "stick it in there and screw it down." A revision of this ought to include a detailed picture of EXACTLY how far in it goes: when it's done correctly, there is zero black PCIe slot sticking out beyond the crossbar; it sits entirely under it. (Also, I vaguely recall you guys mentioning something in this forum about notches in the PCB? Dunno what the deal with that was, but I just tried to ignore it because it would have confused me further.)
The other thing that I'd really like to see are wiring instructions included. There are a lot of wires that basically can't be routed after you complete a certain step, and knowing when to route those wires could make life a lot easier. For future builders, use this as a wiring guide:
- Install the motherboard (including CPU and RAM) and plug in the 8-pin EPS, 24-pin mobo power, power button, and any sata connections you need.
- Install the power supply. Plug the 24-pin power into it, but don't plug in the 8-pin yet; leave it hanging out on the other side of the motherboard.
- Install the USB 3.0 front panel and cable, pushing it down as much as you possibly can. The curve is really tight.
- Install the PCIe riser and the first drive, then route the 8-pin power under it and plug it in. Plug in the PCIe power cables and let them cross to the GPU side.
- Plug in the SATA power, then install the second drive if you have one, and connect SATA and power to both drives.
- Finally, Install the GPU and plug in the power connectors. Wiring should be done.
4) Remember what I said about the USB 3.0 cable?
Yeah, it's a bit of a bastard. Take a look at how tall it is in the picture above, and now check out what my SSD looked like before pushing it down enough to screw it in.
I don't know that there's anything that can be done about this, but it's a bit of a bloody pain. It's also just something for builders to keep an eye on; you're going to have to squish some cables to make a fully loaded build work in this case.
5) Some good news? The graphics card is nothing like the entire rest of the build process.
Look at that. After fighting with everything else (Especially the SATA power, that was a pain), I have this huge, empty compartment that the graphics card just slots into, power cables ready to go. It was glorious.
6) And finally, my biggest stress of the entire build: unlabeled screws.
Seriously though. The only thing that actually nailed me in this entire drunken stress test was that the screws are totally unlabeled. I have a fair bit of experience and I don't think that I used a 6-32 anywhere I needed an M3, but I also didn't know where I was supposed to use the black screws vs the silver screws, and the two bags of black screws looked totally identical.
What I would absolutely love to see is going further down the Ikya route, where each screw has a letter in the list of parts, and then every step of the pictograph told you what letter screws to use... but hell, even just labels on the baggies saying "Spare Case Screws" "Drive Screws" "Motherboard" "PCIe Riser" would be nice.
Just give me something, here.
Now. That was a pretty long list of bitches, so what does it actually come down to? Well, the screws were the only issue that actually annoyed me - the others were more suggestions of where improvement could be found. Here are some of the things that I absolutely loved about the case:
- Using the top of the case to mount the graphics card is innovative, makes the process super easy, and feels very secure.
- The stand... I don't even know what to say about it. The stand is perfect. It feels totally sturdy when it's on, and takes just enough to remove that it feels secure without being in any way difficult; in fact, putting the stand on and off is super easy and really really satisfying for some reason.
To wrap it up, a couple glory pictures. My desk isn't nearly as clean and gorgeous as any of the ones we've seen so far; it makes me feel sort of ashamed... but hey, it's more like a workshop than a battlestation, anyways. It works for me.
- The fit and finish of this case is wonderful. One of the things that I noticed is how the outside of every screw hole is oblong, not round, so there's a bit of wiggle room for parts lining up. That's a really nice touch. (Though it does mean that you can put the outside shell on a bit too far back and have a bit of a gap. Easy enough to fix, and more than worth having to fight the case to fit together.)
Ugh, the mess:
Doesn't look too bad from the other angle, though. It goes great with the server that just got moved in here for more regular maintenance.
Just imagine there's a second monitor in there; I sold it to a friend and have been waiting to buy a new one until I can get something really nice. I love my 1440p Iiyama, but I really miss the smoothness of a high refresh rate. I'm hoping to eventually get the 1440p gsync HDR ultrawide that Asus announced at Computex.
This was 112% worth the money and time, and I couldn't be any happier with it.
I know that I said I'd do some benchmarks of pcie cables, but unfortunately the drunk-stress-testing got in the way of that. I do, however, have the cable, so if anybody wants to test it out, all they have to do is pay shipping from the west coast USA and it's theirs; I'm not going to be using it anytime soon. (*And that should be fairly cheap; it can just go in a bubble wrap envelope.)
