ABIT IP35 Pro Dual Channel Memory Slots Not Working

S

Sharppy

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May 23, 2017
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When I try and put two sticks into slots 1 and 2 and or 3 and 4 the computer doesn't POST. It gives a C1 error code. It was working before so I don't know what happened. Here is a picture of what i'm talking about (the only 2 stick combo that works). It boots fine with the setup I have now, but it doesn't work with dual slot configuration. I have tried every combo and 1 stick works fine in slot 1 and 3. I have cleared the CMOS also using the CMOS switch and when that didnt work then I tired removing battery and moving jumper over.
 

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You probably have hardware failure in some way shape or form. Unfortunately what hardware failure looks like is also hard to determine. Obviously this is subtle.

If you want to figure out where, it will be tedious and you'll essentially need to test each component separately.
The most likely culprits are: the motherboard, the RAM, or the powersupply. In another system test each item piece by piece and see what happens.

But anyway, you could have a lot of common failure in a lot of ways. The IP35 is old. It could have bad caps or parts that are becoming desoldered. Your PSU could be crap and it's breaking down. The RAM, the same.
 
UnknownSouljer said:
You probably have hardware failure in some way shape or form. Unfortunately what hardware failure looks like is also hard to determine. Obviously this is subtle.

If you want to figure out where, it will be tedious and you'll essentially need to test each component separately.
The most likely culprits are: the motherboard, the RAM, or the powersupply. In another system test each item piece by piece and see what happens.

But anyway, you could have a lot of common failure in a lot of ways. The IP35 is old. It could have bad caps or parts that are becoming desoldered. Your PSU could be crap and it's breaking down. The RAM, the same.
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I still havent updated my BIOS to the latest one yet. ABIT doesnt supply the BIOS's anymore I dont know where to get the updated file.
 
What version of the BIOS is installed? Version 1.5 can be downloaded here. It is from 2008 and v2.0 of the manual for that board is dated 2007 so I'm not sure if it is the latest.

If you want to give this a try, there is an archive of Abit's FTP server from 2009 (just before they shut down). I haven't checked it out yet, but it's a 13.6GB download so I'm assuming it would be in there somewhere.
 
prime2515102 said:
What version of the BIOS is installed? Version 1.5 can be downloaded here. It is from 2008 and v2.0 of the manual for that board is dated 2007 so I'm not sure if it is the latest.

If you want to give this a try, there is an archive of Abit's FTP server from 2009 (just before they shut down). I haven't checked it out yet, but it's a 13.6GB download so I'm assuming it would be in there somewhere.
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Its version 12. Goes up to v17. I think it also has a beta v21. What way would be best to flash the BIOS and how? I dont have a floppy drive.
 
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The only thing I can think of is to flash from a bootable CD or DVD (I'm assuming you can't boot from USB on a board that old, but I could be wrong).

By the way, here are all the BIOS's up to v18.

There are also more available for the IP35-Pro, Pro XE, E, P, and V also. Be sure yours is the right variant.

I didn't bother looking at this site because I assumed they wouldn't have old archives but there it is.
 
prime2515102 said:
The only thing I can think of is to flash from a bootable CD or DVD (I'm assuming you can't boot from USB on a board that old, but I could be wrong).

By the way, here is all the BIOS's up to v18.

There are also more available for the IP35-Pro, Pro XE, E, P, and V also. Be sure yours is the right variant.

I didn't bother looking at this site because I assumed they wouldn't have old archives but there it is.
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Those links dont work for the BIOS files.
 
Sharppy said:
Those links dont work for the BIOS files.
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Ahhhh crap! I just noticed this. The download happens but they are invalid. That sucks...

That other file I linked to doesn't appear to have anything IP35 related in it either. Sorry!

If you need it bad enough I would start finding forum posts about this board and send messages to the owners to see if they have something in their archives.

Too bad it's not an NF7-S - I have every BIOS and Driver ever released for it around here somewhere. lol
 
Ok, I'm an idiot. That link I posted (the ftp archive) has all the IP35 BIOS's up to v18 in it (the folders didn't show at first for some reason).

Edit: And it's the Pro you're looking for. lol My god man... I gotta stay out of these forums at this hour. Anyway, the Pro is in the archive too.

Goodnight. lol
 
prime2515102 said:
Ok, I'm an idiot. That link I posted (the ftp archive) has all the IP35 BIOS's up to v18 in it (the folders didn't show at first for some reason).

Edit: And it's the Pro you're looking for. lol My god man... I gotta stay out of these forums at this hour. Anyway, the Pro is in the archive too.

Goodnight. lol
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I downloaded that 13.7GB file and found the BIOS and other files but dont know what else I need (maybe an updated uGuru or does that update with the BIOS?) It does have boot from USB. How would I go about making the bootable USB to flash the BIOS? I'm kinda new to all this and I really dont want to mess it up.
 
Easiest way I know to make a bootable USB stick is Rufus: http://rufus.akeo.ie/

1. After Rufus is done, copy the contents of the Abit zip file onto the USB stick (I think yours is m629b17.zip for the IP35-Pro).
2. Do a clean boot (I believe it is F8, the same as Windows safe mode, but it's been a long time so someone will have to confirm).*
3. Once it is booted, run "runme.bat" and hope for the best.

Personally, I, and many others, have had bad experiences with flashing from Windows so using something like Flashmenu I would not recomend.

uGuru is for changing CMOS settings in Windows (like FSB speed, etc.) and Flashmenu is for flashing the BIOS in Windows. Both are Windows-based utilities and are not updated with a BIOS update.

If you do want to use Flashmenu anyway, it is pretty straight forward. Extract the contents of the Abit zip file, then in Flashmenu, browse to the .bin file and let 'er rip. The most recent compatible version of Flashmenu should be in that archive somewhere.

*A clean boot might not be necessary, but it's a precaution that was recommended to me and one I have always taken.
 
The file for the IP35 Pro is m629b_18.rar which is the last one I have. That was the last (pretty sure it is a beta bios though) available. Last time I flashed my IP35Pro was years ago and I am sure I used a floppy disk to do it.
 
How do I use rufus? Different settings I dont know what to pick. The Partition Scheme? After the BIOS flash I wanted to update the uGuru thats in BIOS also. What would I have to do to install that?
 
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These settings should be good (of course 'device' is your USB stick and 'volume label' is anything you want):
fwojtx.jpg
 
prime2515102 said:
Just type "runme.bat" and hit enter.
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Ok it flashed V17 successfully. The RAM issue is still there. It doesnt let me put memory into 1 and 3 or 2 and 4 it keeps throwing the C1 POST error. I can only use 1 and 2 DIMM slots.
 
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Sweet, I'm glad it worked 'cause I woulda felt really shitty if you would have bricked it following my advice. lol

This is really strange since both channels of the memory controller are functioning with only 1 stick installed. Any chance you have some other RAM to try?
 
prime2515102 said:
Sweet, I'm glad it worked 'cause I woulda felt really shitty if you would have bricked it following my advice. lol

This is really strange since both channels of the memory controller are functioning with only 1 stick installed. Any chance you have some other RAM to try?
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Yup its brand new never used memory that I have tried and that dont work either.
 
All I can think of is what has already been suggested, a bad part somewhere (capacitor, resistor, etc.) or the memory controller itself has gone bad.

Since one stick works in either channel, I would suspect that too much current is being pulled through something that can't handle it anymore while in dual-channel mode.

I was going to suggest just getting a new board off ebay or something, but they're selling for around $90. Other boards with the same socket and chipset are probably available for less, but I guess that's not the point here.
 
prime2515102 said:
All I can think of is what has already been suggested, a bad part somewhere (capacitor, resistor, etc.) or the memory controller itself has gone bad.

Since one stick works in either channel, I would suspect that too much current is being pulled through something that can't handle it anymore while in dual-channel mode.

I was going to suggest just getting a new board off ebay or something, but they're selling for around $90. Other boards with the same socket and chipset are probably available for less, but I guess that's not the point here.
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Yup. Having everything work just fine, then all of a sudden stop working just fine is not an indicator of having an BIOS that's not fully updated.

This is hardware related.
 
UnknownSouljer said:
Yup. Having everything work just fine, then all of a sudden stop working just fine is not an indicator of having an BIOS that's not fully updated.

This is hardware related.
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When I took the motherboard out of the case to clean it, all still was working fine on the test table. Maybe did something trying to peel off the old sticky heatsink pad cushion which was under the motherboard to replace with a better heatsink. Other than the dual channel not working, everything else is top notch and works perfect. My Q6600 running at 3.6GHz stable 36C Idle.
 
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Still got that "old sticky heatsink pad cushion"? If so, look for components that should still be on the mobo. :)

That, or try to find an old review of the motherboard and see if there are any high resolution shots of the bottom of the board and compare to yours to see if you can find anything missing. If that fails, see if Newegg has an archived product page for your board with pics...maybe you'll get lucky.

It actually makes sense that if everything worked up to that point you may have actually pulled something off. I can only imagine that after a bunch of years it was probably pretty bonded.

I personally never remove the protective layer on the mobo side of cushion pads. I hate to have that sticky stuff stuck to my motherboards.
 
Reefa_Madness said:
Still got that "old sticky heatsink pad cushion"? If so, look for components that should still be on the mobo. :)

That, or try to find an old review of the motherboard and see if there are any high resolution shots of the bottom of the board and compare to yours to see if you can find anything missing. If that fails, see if Newegg has an archived product page for your board with pics...maybe you'll get lucky.

It actually makes sense that if everything worked up to that point you may have actually pulled something off. I can only imagine that after a bunch of years it was probably pretty bonded.

I personally never remove the protective layer on the mobo side of cushion pads. I hate to have that sticky stuff stuck to my motherboards.
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I checked and everything is good. Nothing came loose or ended up on that "sticky pad" lol. It's just really weird how the first channel of each works but the last two don't.
 
When I took the motherboard out of the case to clean it, all still was working fine on the test table. Maybe did something trying to peel off the old sticky heatsink pad cushion which was under the motherboard to replace with a better heatsink.
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If I am reading this correctly, you replaced the heatsink?

If you google something along the lines of "loss of memory channel caused by overtightening heatsink" you will find that it has been reported multiple times that over-tightening the heat sink / water block can result in loss of memory channel. Perhaps this is what has happened to you?

Examples:
https://hardforum.com/threads/ram-problems-cooling-too-tight.1463560/

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2104510/fitted-cooler-ram-slot-working.html
 
Reefa_Madness said:
If I am reading this correctly, you replaced the heatsink?

If you google something along the lines of "loss of memory channel caused by overtightening heatsink" you will find that it has been reported multiple times that over-tightening the heat sink / water block can result in loss of memory channel. Perhaps this is what has happened to you?

Examples:
https://hardforum.com/threads/ram-problems-cooling-too-tight.1463560/

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2104510/fitted-cooler-ram-slot-working.html
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Just tried that and still wont boot in dual channel. By the way this is the heatsink I put on, pictured in OP picture, it also doesn't allow you to over tighten since it has tensioning springs.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4RE4NS4342
 
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You may have already thought to do this, but did you check the socket pins to be sure that none got bent or broken during the process of swapping out the old and installing the new heat sink?

If you are satisfied that there are no bent or broken pins you might want to also consider, as part of the troubleshooting process, (a) even though the HS has built in limitations on how much you can tighten, try loosening the new heat sink a tiny-bit and if that doesn't do any good, then (b) re-installing the old heat sink to see if there is any difference. Based on the history of Intel LGA boards having memory issues very similar to what you've described as a result of the tension put on the CPU by the heat sink, I would exhaust all options in this area before concluding the problem is elsewhere.
 
Reefa_Madness said:
You may have already thought to do this, but did you check the socket pins to be sure that none got bent or broken during the process of swapping out the old and installing the new heat sink?

If you are satisfied that there are no bent or broken pins you might want to also consider, as part of the troubleshooting process, (a) even though the HS has built in limitations on how much you can tighten, try loosening the new heat sink a tiny-bit and if that doesn't do any good, then (b) re-installing the old heat sink to see if there is any difference. Based on the history of Intel LGA boards having memory issues very similar to what you've described as a result of the tension put on the CPU by the heat sink, I would exhaust all options in this area before concluding the problem is elsewhere.
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I don't have the old cushion from the other heatsink to try the old one. I tried to un-tighten them some just one turn makes the heatsink slide around more than I like it to, gets way too loose and to no avail same memory problem. The heatsink on there now works perfect on the board I took it from and works flawlessly on this board as well. I have looked at the pins also with nothing bent or broken.

This is the old heatsink that I took off...

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835106061
 
The infamous T/T Big Typhoon! Don't know why, but I've always liked the way it looked with those heatpipes holding up the rest of the cooler...I think it is because the bends in teh pipes always reminded me of the 4-into-1 Kerker exhaust pipe that I had on my Kawasaki 900. :)

As for not having the cushion, you can fashion that easily enough from any kind of rubber, such as an old bicycle tube, or they sell these (or similar) 1.5mm thick foam rectangles in the Craft section of your local Walmart that can work with a few bolt holes punched in them.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Foam-She...75035&wl11=online&wl12=35654726&wl13=&veh=sem

I guess I'm still stuck on exhausting all heat sink related possibilities, since this is a documented issue with "symptoms" very similar to what you have experienced.
 
Reefa_Madness said:
The infamous T/T Big Typhoon! Don't know why, but I've always liked the way it looked with those heatpipes holding up the rest of the cooler...I think it is because the bends in teh pipes always reminded me of the 4-into-1 Kerker exhaust pipe that I had on my Kawasaki 900. :)

As for not having the cushion, you can fashion that easily enough from any kind of rubber, such as an old bicycle tube, or they sell these (or similar) 1.5mm thick foam rectangles in the Craft section of your local Walmart that can work with a few bolt holes punched in them.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Foam-She...75035&wl11=online&wl12=35654726&wl13=&veh=sem

I guess I'm still stuck on exhausting all heat sink related possibilities, since this is a documented issue with "symptoms" very similar to what you have experienced.
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Too much to do just for it to still have the memory problem. I have attached this same heatsink with the exact same tension to a few computers to test with no memory problems at all. No clue why this memory issue is happening.... I still have the memory in the same slots as in the OP only configuration that works. Wish it was something to do in the BIOS instead.
 
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Reefa_Madness said:
Maybe someone else can offer us some suggestions for you.

...and you have a message.
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Hope someone else will have a better solution instead of buying a new board. Included a CPU-Z report if you wanted to take a look.
 

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Just trying to hone in on when the problem first occurred. You stated that when you had the board on the test table it was all working. Was that before, or after the heat sink swap?

If before the heat sink swap then to me, the HS swap certainly appears to be the possible triggering event, whether it was the during the removal of the Big Typhoon, or the install of the replacement.

If the board was working after the HS replacement, but while out of the case, then you need to look to see if you can find anything between the mobo and the case that could be causing a short of some type.

I might have missed it if you told us, but have you tried testing the board again out of the case?
 
Reefa_Madness said:
Just trying to hone in on when the problem first occurred. You stated that when you had the board on the test table it was all working. Was that before, or after the heat sink swap?

If before the heat sink swap then to me, the HS swap certainly appears to be the possible triggering event, whether it was the during the removal of the Big Typhoon, or the install of the replacement.

If the board was working after the HS replacement, but while out of the case, then you need to look to see if you can find anything between the mobo and the case that could be causing a short of some type.

I might have missed it if you told us, but have you tried testing the board again out of the case?
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That was before the swap. Like I said I must of scratched or hit something while taking off that cushion. Yes the board has been out of the case this entire time.
 
I know it is your call, but I still think that it would be worth it to re-install the Big Typhoon, or even a stock Intel HSF and see if anything changes. You stated that you've used the replacement HSF on other boards without problems but since that's when your troubles started, it seems like it is worth it to try one more thing. If it doesn't work with a stock cooler, or the Typhoon, then at least you can rule that out because you've tested all the variables.
 
Dayum! Had to double-check that this wasn't a necro thread - haven't played with my IP35 Pro in forever.
 
Got IP35 PRO XE running a Q9450 at 3.2 with 8gigs 4 sticks for 10 years 24/7.... Use it every day at my shop...
What slots works with what?
Sounds like you scratched a trace on the board when you swapped things!
 
Anyway to fix scratched traces? Fill them in somehow (with solder)? Might of scrached it while taking off the sticky pad under the board that was almost permanently stuck to the bottom. I used a hairdryer to heat up the sticky pad that made it way easier to take off.
 
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