AIO WC cooling solutions, yay or nay?

soulesschild

Supreme [H]ardness
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Currently considering upgrading to the Corsair Hydro 1080ti for an AIO WC solution. I did custom watercooling way back but just don't want to/have the time to deal with setting it up and all that jazz. Are the AIO WC solutions any good? I see most of it is cooling the main chip and not things like the VRMs and stuff. Are those going to be an issue?

Link to the Hydro: http://www.corsair.com/en-us/landing/hydro-gfx-1080-ti
 
In the case of the Corsair Hydro AIO's, the sole purpose of leaving that fan still attached to the card is to cool the VRM's and possibly the RAM. Underneath that shroud are likely some heatsinks on the VRM's and/or quite possibly a metal plate that pulls double duty as a mounting bracket and heatspreader.

For an idea on how the 1080 Hydro looks like underneath, look at the previous adapters they sold (GTX 980 version below):

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Meh! I've always felt going full loop with a full card GPU block and a CPU block and plenty of radiator/fans is the only way to go if you aren't going to stick to air cooling. If you don't want to hassle with a full loop solution, then why mess with a half-assed one? By the time you mount all this and install it, you've already done more than half the work required of going with a full loop. This may be a bit cheaper and easier to set up, but this is the [H] forum, not the [h] forum! :D
 
Meh! I've always felt going full loop with a full card GPU block and a CPU block and plenty of radiator/fans is the only way to go if you aren't going to stick to air cooling. If you don't want to hassle with a full loop solution, then why mess with a half-assed one? By the time you mount all this and install it, you've already done more than half the work required of going with a full loop. This may be a bit cheaper and easier to set up, but this is the [H] forum, not the [h] forum! :D

I used to run a full loop back in the Core2Duo/Quad days but went back to air because I had to budget for new waterblocks for every upgrade or alternatively had to figure out how to manufacture the parts needed to mount the stuff I had. I'm still much more confident that I can get an adapter kit for my air cooler. Even now most waterblocks for GPUs are full cover blocks for a specific model and cost 100+ euros whereas I was well below that for my Corsair H55 + NZXT Kraken G10 bracket that I can move to my next GPU easily.

So to me the AIO coolers are a better and cheaper solution.
 
The one in my sig has treated me well, even gaming in 4k the highest i've seen it is around 58 C, very rarely have I seen it at 60C and on average it sits about 54C. Thats at a 2100 mhz clock as well, I dont know if they make a 1080ti version but mine only has a fan on the radiator, they use heat pipes (kind of but not really?) that goes from the VRAM to the cooling block on the GPU and the fan is also ran straight from the video card, doesnt need to plug in anywhere else.

The only con is that is requires two power connectors instead of one, but Gigabyte said that is for a more steady power draw, like it would never use all of that power that two connectors can put out.

Bottom line though, I am very happy with the card.
 
The Kraken 10 is pretty good since it has fans for VRM cooling and it's universal.
 
If you already have a 1080 Ti then there are several DIY options available, so you don't have to buy another card that comes with one installed. They range from an all inclusive kit like those available from EVGA to brackets that hold a CPU AIO to the GPU like the NZXT Kraken G12.
The Kraken 10 is pretty good since it has fans for VRM cooling and it's universal.
A newer version of the Kraken GPU bracket called the G12 just came out. It's the same price and has better compatibility with more AIO coolers.
 
Meh! I've always felt going full loop with a full card GPU block and a CPU block and plenty of radiator/fans is the only way to go if you aren't going to stick to air cooling. If you don't want to hassle with a full loop solution, then why mess with a half-assed one? By the time you mount all this and install it, you've already done more than half the work required of going with a full loop. This may be a bit cheaper and easier to set up, but this is the [H] forum, not the [h] forum! :D

I feel ya. 5 years ago I had a 840 ATC with 2x triples running a CPU and 2x 4890x2s. But budgeting for blocks was a huge hassle as was making moves. Maybe once I settle down in a house that I won't leave for 5 years I'll consider a full fledged hardcore loop.
 
really considering the Evga AIO for my 1080ti, need to get a better idea of the OC potential before pulling the trigger tho..
 
really considering the Evga AIO for my 1080ti, need to get a better idea of the OC potential before pulling the trigger tho..
I've frequently seen people say 2050 MHz. I'm installing one on my Titan X this weekend, so I'll see what I get on that.
 
really considering the Evga AIO for my 1080ti, need to get a better idea of the OC potential before pulling the trigger tho..

I have it on my 1080ti. 2025 to 2050 depending on games. As long as the game doesn't push it past its power limit. Under unigine benchmark (the new one) I get constant 2050. Under tomb raider I get around 2038. But always above 2ghz. My temps are in the 40's and the low 50s in summer time here. On little colder days I stay in the lower 40s.
 
Well custom loop can give ya around 35-37c on full load for hours of gaming.. thats with 1080 sli overclocked to 2165mhz and i7 6700 overclocked to 4.8ghz with 2 tripple 120mm rads and single pump.
 
Well custom loop can give ya around 35-37c on full load for hours of gaming.. thats with 1080 sli overclocked to 2165mhz and i7 6700 overclocked to 4.8ghz with 2 tripple 120mm rads and single pump.
Some of us ain't got time for that, as the TC says in the second sentence of the OP. But congrats on your e-peen dedication.
Currently considering upgrading to the Corsair Hydro 1080ti for an AIO WC solution. I did custom watercooling way back but just don't want to/have the time to deal with setting it up and all that jazz. Are the AIO WC solutions any good? I see most of it is cooling the main chip and not things like the VRMs and stuff. Are those going to be an issue?

Link to the Hydro: http://www.corsair.com/en-us/landing/hydro-gfx-1080-ti
 
Some of us ain't got time for that, as the TC says in the second sentence of the OP. But congrats on your e-peen dedication.

No epeen indended when people want a reference between an aio and custom loop.

I would of stayed with air cooling on the cards if possable and or with a single gpu. Though with temps reaching mid 70's with maxed fans i felt forced to water cool them.

Just figure if someone is spending 100+ to water cool the cards.. why not just spend a little more.. everything but the gpu blocks are resuable in a future setup.

The trick is having enough radiator for the job. Concensious is a single 120mm rad per item to cool.. so cpu/video card would be a 120x2 or 240 rad. Though the larger the rad or more rads equalls better cooling with quieter fans. So a tripple 120mm rad would be best. Add in a double 120 and you can use lower quieter fans.

Thats why i use 2 360 rads.

Buying a aio or custom water block are both losses.. meaning both cant be used in future gpu upgrades. If you buy a cpu block most likely can be used on a future cpu with doing nothing or getting a different bracket.. water pump and res and rads can always be used for the future so no loss there.
 
I have a bunch of EVGA's Hybrid cards. Love them.
 
No epeen indended when people want a reference between an aio and custom loop.

I would of stayed with air cooling on the cards if possable and or with a single gpu. Though with temps reaching mid 70's with maxed fans i felt forced to water cool them.

Just figure if someone is spending 100+ to water cool the cards.. why not just spend a little more.. everything but the gpu blocks are resuable in a future setup.

The trick is having enough radiator for the job. Concensious is a single 120mm rad per item to cool.. so cpu/video card would be a 120x2 or 240 rad. Though the larger the rad or more rads equalls better cooling with quieter fans. So a tripple 120mm rad would be best. Add in a double 120 and you can use lower quieter fans.

Thats why i use 2 360 rads.

Buying a aio or custom water block are both losses.. meaning both cant be used in future gpu upgrades. If you buy a cpu block most likely can be used on a future cpu with doing nothing or getting a different bracket.. water pump and res and rads can always be used for the future so no loss there.

While that's definitely true I currently also run a super tiny case, SG10 which I'm still trying to figure out if the EVGA hybrid will fit. Might have to dremel something but yea. If I had the time and space I would definitely pick a bigger case and do 2x 360's which is what I did back when I had a ATC 840.
 
i have a kraken g10 on a 1080.

I get 21c idle and 34c full load, playing Bf1.

I never understood why, other than aesthetics, people would bother with a custom loop and water block that is not reusable.
 
i have a kraken g10 on a 1080.

I get 21c idle and 34c full load, playing Bf1.

I never understood why, other than aesthetics, people would bother with a custom loop and water block that is not reusable.

Maybe something to do with full cooling coverage of mem,gpu and vreg..also looks good and clean. Much easier to install for multipal card then finding spots for dual small 120mm rads.
 
Maybe something to do with full cooling coverage of mem,gpu and vreg..also looks good and clean. Much easier to install for multipal card then finding spots for dual small 120mm rads.

Don't forget the CPU is also typically in the mix with a custom water loop - not so much with piece-meal AIO solution. Full coverage blocks also let you push the envelope... watch it bend! Bottom line, pure, unadulterated PERFORMANCE! :).. [Now use an Austin Power's voice for this next bit...] Yeah, baby!! OK, maybe I shouldn't post after the 4th beer...
 
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I'm thinking about water-cooling my GPUs at the moment but...

1. Not sure if it's worth it at all (an extra 100MHz on 1900MHz).

2. Custom loop - the blocks are pretty expensive (c.£100) and would have to be replaced every upgrade cycle completely. Is it worth the outlay? I tend to upgrade GPUs every other cycle and usually wait for Ti card(s).

3. AIO - Might be a better option, hopefully the AIO and bracket (e.g. G12) would be compatible with future GPUs?
 
There comes a point of diminishing returns. Is the extra expense of the AIO, time spent to set up, and the extra cost to operate in the form of power draw worth the cost of investment?
 
Is the purchase of a Titan xP worth the extra cost of a 1080ti?

At the enthusiast level, in any field, nothing is ever logically worth it; it comes down to subjective worth.
 
I love my 980 Ti hybrid. Its quiet, never goes over 58c no matter what the load. When I upgrade to a 1080 Ti it will almost certainly be another EVGA hybrid.
 
No epeen indended when people want a reference between an aio and custom loop.

I would of stayed with air cooling on the cards if possable and or with a single gpu. Though with temps reaching mid 70's with maxed fans i felt forced to water cool them.

Modern GPUs don't even throttle until you get into the mid 80's. I'm for anyone that likes lower temps as a hobby, or to push extreme OCs, or put a 300W card in a tiny case, but there is no need or force to WC a GPU.

Though, some WC SLI setups look pretty sweet. To each their own.
 
Modern GPUs don't even throttle until you get into the mid 80's. I'm for anyone that likes lower temps as a hobby, or to push extreme OCs, or put a 300W card in a tiny case, but there is no need or force to WC a GPU.

Though, some WC SLI setups look pretty sweet. To each their own.

The reduction in noise alone makes it worth it to me. I'd rather more GPUs came in water cooled versions and were available right from the start instead of months later if even then.
 
Modern GPUs don't even throttle until you get into the mid 80's. I'm for anyone that likes lower temps as a hobby, or to push extreme OCs, or put a 300W card in a tiny case, but there is no need or force to WC a GPU.

Though, some WC SLI setups look pretty sweet. To each their own.

Pascal clocks lower per temp.. it lowers in in stages per the bios settings. Hit a certain temp and it lowers.. hit the next temp it lowers again. I believe its called dynamic clocks..

Thermal throttle is when the temps hit a mark thats the upper limits of the card and it lowers it alot to keep it cooler.

Water cooling eliminates that issue plus the noise issue. Non reference cards removes the power limits as well.

On air cooling the clocks on load start at a certain clock (per bios or user) and lower at a certain temp in stages a little to keep it stable at a certain temp.

With water cooling whatever the max clock is or your overclock setting it will hold since its well below 53c or so.. when it usually will drop the clocks on load.
 
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Pascal starts downclocking at 52 C, IIRC 13 MHz at every 4 C by default.

This is out of the box behavior, yes? I've set a temp limit on Afterburner and (at least my Maxwell GPU) doesn't downclock until it hits the limit.
 
This is out of the box behavior, yes? I've set a temp limit on Afterburner and (at least my Maxwell GPU) doesn't downclock until it hits the limit.

Check again.

I have set temp limit to 90 in Afterburner but the card (FE) will downclock much earlier than that. It is layered exactly as described above.

I assume your card idles at around 30*C? Fire up a benchmark or game or whatever and watch the clocks. I'd be willing to bet that the card runs at a higher clock for the first few seconds / minutes and then settles down once temps have topped out.

Just to be clear, we're talking Pascal and KBoost 3.0 here - I notice your sig lists a 970.
 
Check again.

I have set temp limit to 90 in Afterburner but the card (FE) will downclock much earlier than that. It is layered exactly as described above.

I assume your card idles at around 30*C? Fire up a benchmark or game or whatever and watch the clocks. I'd be willing to bet that the card runs at a higher clock for the first few seconds / minutes and then settles down once temps have topped out.

Just to be clear, we're talking Pascal and KBoost 3.0 here - I notice your sig lists a 970.

My GTX 970 never did that. It'd run my overclock all the way up to 80, 75c (whatever I set it to), where it might dip a little bit, but not much.

My GTX 1080 Ti literally showed up this afternoon. EDIT: It seems to ramp down starting 25c under the target temp set in Precision X. At 100%/84c the card will run all the way up to 1950MHz. If I drop the limit down to 63%/70c it will bounce between 1750 and 1800MHz. That's with no offset.

All of this is golden for me, since I was only promise a 1.67GHz card. This thing runs up to nearly 2GHz on its own.

Correct, which is why I said 'by default'.

Thank you for the clarification.
 
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Yeah so I think Maxwell and KBoost 2.0 worked a little differently to how it works on Pascal. The behaviour you're seeing with your Ti is exactly what I would expect.

Leave the temp limit at 90*C and play with the fan curve to see what you can get out of it without blowing eardrums.

Does anyone know if the G12 (and which AIO to go with it) will allow use in SLI configurations where there is only 1-Slot between the installed cards?
 
I used to have crossfire 290 in an asus Z-97A.

You can look up the specs and photos to see how it compares. The I used the upper pcie slots, as the one closet to the bottom was only 2.0
 
If you go with the adapter option, it will be slightly more expensive but when the card needs to be upgraded you'll still be able to reuse the AIO, which you can't do with an integrated solution.

I generally don't buy anything but reference cards for future replaceability, but if you do buy a non-reference AIO card, it's something to think about.
 
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