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NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)
- Thread starter wahaha360
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Not yet but I do have some slim 120s laying around.
Not sure why my GPU his hotter than the CPU, but they stay really low and silent so I'm not concerned.
rfarmer
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The Armor is 143mm wide, you only have 140mm.
Why dont you just use the original 140mm fan that came with the c14s under the heatsink, thats what i did.Managed to get my hand on a used Noctua C14 with Noctua P12 after having built my NCASE with a Noctua C14S and a Silverstone FW121.
In term of temperature performance both are hitting max 87° with a 7700k non delidded after 20mn of Prime95. The C14 is not better than the C14s.
The difference is in the noise, at the max RPM the FW121 is loud where the P12 at max RPM is more quiet.
But if you put a low noise adaptor on the FW121 and you add a Noctua P12 on pull under the C14s the noise and performance are similar. Very small noise advantage to the C14 with the P12 tough at max RPM, idle you don't have a difference.
Unfortunately I don't have a sonometer to take precise measure of the noise.
I also tried to put a second Noctua P12 on the fan bracket with the C14 and it didn't change the max temperature still 87°C.
C14S:
C14 with one Noctua P12
C14 with two Noctua P12 side by side.
I'm going to delid the CPU during the weekend and post back the result.
You do have to place the psu in the atx psu spot, but beyond that its very easy to install, and performs soooo quiet.
I find the Phanteks F120MPs to be exceptional fans. Are reasonably quiet at full speed and are probably quieter than the average persons ambient noise at 1200RPM or less. 1000RPM or less if you're picky.
You might be interested in the link at the bottom of this post. Just installed a EVGA CLC block on the 1080Ti FE.
p3z I think I may pull trigger on EVGA 1080 Ti SC BE. Quick question on your temps. I just stalked your posts to find temp data. Just wondering. Do you always keep your case open? Did you keep data on temps without bottom fans + closed case? I checked your pics and the case was open.
Havent done much research, but so far I also read that EVGA doesnt void warranty when installing third party coolers. I might reuse my Arctic Accelero IV on it. I think if it was able to cool my 290X, it should be able to cool every other GPU that it could fit on
Yeah I always run the system closed. I just happened to have all the pics to show off the components. The system actually sits on the shelf that you can see behind it in some of the pics.
But to break it down:
EVGA SC BE with 2xF120MP intakes - 72C max
EVGA SC BE w/o the intakes - 87C and climbing
If you're not picky about noise while gaming, I don't think you'd have any complaints about the setup that I run (other than any coil whine or CLC pump noise).
I've recently put a EVGA CLC on my FE card, see the bottom of the post for the album link with updated pics.
I'm curious about this as well. Now that my system is as quiet as I think it's going to get, the pump noise from my H75 is all I hear. Thankfully my air purifier has enough ambient noise to drown it out.
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So I'm not 100% excited about how I've had to route the hoses thus far, but I couldn't find another way to route them. I'll have to refer back to some other builds I've seen, but ATM, I can mod the fan bracket just a bit to get rid of the bow (from the top down photo you can notice that the fans bow inward) that's there and I'd probably be happy. I think I'd just need a metal file as it doesn't need much more space at all. I'll have to look it over again and maybe play with the configuration a bit, as ideally I want the hoses to sit at the bottom instead of the right side. This also meant me relocating the SSD stack from the inside to behind the front panel.
Pics at the bottom of this album (some temp reports as well):
https://imgur.com/a/sw5Nf
Upgraded some parts of my build and redid the loop. Let me know what you guys think.
http://imgur.com/a/F6W6M
http://imgur.com/a/F6W6M
DarkForceRising
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Is anything important missing from this build? Don't answer that, it's a rhetorical question.
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/darknoghri/saved/W8gFTW
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/darknoghri/saved/W8gFTW
Motherboard manufacturers are pissing me off. I can't even attempt to lock in a CPU cooler (short of something like the U9S) without photos of the socket layout and surrounding areas, and I don't want the Biostar.
Probably won't be able to put the side panel on with the graphics card I currently have, but I'm not upgrading yet.
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/darknoghri/saved/W8gFTW
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/darknoghri/saved/W8gFTW
Motherboard manufacturers are pissing me off.
I can't even attempt to lock in a CPU cooler (short of something like the U9S) without photos of the socket layout and surrounding areas, and I don't want the Biostar. Probably won't be able to put the side panel on with the graphics card I currently have, but I'm not upgrading yet.
Based on someone who owns the EVGA hybrid kit, the tubes are quite flexible. The tubing looks similar, so I asked someone who owns a kit if it would be possible to bend the tubes like we see in some of the photos here. They said it should fit.
I'm hopeful, but someone needs to give it a shot and test.
rfarmer
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Upgraded some parts of my build and redid the loop. Let me know what you guys think.
http://imgur.com/a/F6W6M
Nice plant.
Seriously though nice looking build. I went the same way with black sleeving, black tubing and chrome fittings. Think it looks sharp.Question for you, I had thought about adding a 120mm like you have mounted. Any chance you tested your temps with just the 240mm radiator and if so how much difference did it make?
I have a 120mm HWlabs radiator just gathering dust.
Maybe I'll give it a shot for my next project. I wouldn't mind having several components under their warranty in my system
Nice plant.
Question for you, I had thought about adding a 120mm like you have mounted. Any chance you tested your temps with just the 240mm radiator and if so how much difference did it make?
I have a 120mm HWlabs radiator just gathering dust.
I did run just a 240 for a bit but when adding the 120mm to the bottom I went from a 1080 to a 1080 Ti. The difference is negligible. I've done pretty much all the possible radiator configs you can do in the NCASE and the bottom rad just doesn't do enough. If you have one laying around though it can be fun to add.
I built my V2 back in 2014 and never revisited this thread. It has grown so much that reading its 600+ pages is a daunting task to extract information.
I am gonna give a try with the bottom fans set up as exhaust. The graphic card is so big that it is blocking any kind of air flow when I configure my M1 in a push/push from bottom/side config. I never thought about trying a pull/pull config. I think removing the video card shroud and triple fans might help too.
This is my current push/push configuration looks like. Will report back!
I am gonna give a try with the bottom fans set up as exhaust. The graphic card is so big that it is blocking any kind of air flow when I configure my M1 in a push/push from bottom/side config. I never thought about trying a pull/pull config. I think removing the video card shroud and triple fans might help too.
This is my current push/push configuration looks like. Will report back!
rfarmer
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My Ryzen 1700 is done!!!
A bit messy, I did clean up a bit later. GPU is MSI 1070 with EVGA hybrid kit.
I havnt overclocked yet. I'm also waiting for PCI-E riser to give a bit more room on cables since I removed the hard drive on the bottom.
Looks good, so what are your thoughts on the Biostar motherboard?
Careful with memory. I bought Fortis 2666 but they didnt work. I dont know if the memory were bad or just not compatible. Check QVL.
The board itself runs cool. The choke and capacitors are not as hot as my old H97 board. They are barely warm to touch. The board works as intended.
rfarmer
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Good luck with your build, I know memory has been the Achilles heel for Ryzen since release. I am waiting on Asrock to release an AM4 itx board, I have been really impressed with my Z270 Fatl1ty. I had planned on a Ryzen build for sure as soon as they released a motherboard I wanted, but now Intel is hinting at a 6 core i5. If it is released still compatible with the 1151 socket I might stick with Intel. Decisions, decisions.
Haha, I just want to give AMD a chance since I used AMD athlon more than 10 years ago on my first built. I'm excited to be back on AMD side. Good luck to you.
Chapeau
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I know right... 6 core i5 would be great!
Chimaera43
Weaksauce
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Did I read that Intel was going with a 2066 pin setup on these rumored new cpus?
rfarmer
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That is the X299 CPU socket, their new Skylake-X board.
Anyone know the odds of stuffing a MSI 1070 Seahawk and a SilverStone Technology Tundra Series TD02-SLIM AIO 240mm rad on the bottom? The Sea Hawk is 40mm thick and the Silverstone setup is 37mm (22mm Rad + 15mm fans).
I could potentially make the rad/fan setup a few mm thinner by using slip streams (12mm).
Only reason I'm asking is because I have yet to receive my Ncase, and I really want to cut a glass window in my case, which would not hold the same aesthetics with the normal radiator solution in place.
I could potentially make the rad/fan setup a few mm thinner by using slip streams (12mm).
Only reason I'm asking is because I have yet to receive my Ncase, and I really want to cut a glass window in my case, which would not hold the same aesthetics with the normal radiator solution in place.
Qrash
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Zero.
With a 2 slot (40 mm thick) graphics card installed there is just enough space under it for 25 mm thick fans.
If I got some extended legs (3d Printed or something) you think I could put two 12mm fans on the bottom outside the case, or that would just be ridiculous?
rfarmer
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Ok I am confused, are you asking if you can mount both the Silverstone 240mm AIO and the 120mm radiator from the Seahawk in the bottom of the case? With the slim fans the Silverstone AIO should fit and if you used a slim fan on the Seahawk radiator it should fit, but not together.
Edit: Just realized that people using bottom mounted radiators are also using waterblocks on their graphics cards which are only single slot. I doubt you can fit a 25mm radiator and fan below a dual slot graphics card.
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Alright. Got the PSU rotated and the 140mm fan installed on the C14s.
I'm using a SFX-L PSU, so it took a bit of creativity to get the SFX->ATX bracket in, but it was doable with some velcro Command strips. Those were just high enough to hold the two together, and a few minutes with the scissors got it so that they left the opening for the PSU to go in.
It's not as good as it would be if it were properly mounted... but there's no way that I'd get the GPU in without it.
There's juuuuust *barely* enough clearance for the power cable to fit onto the PSU in this configuration.
I still need to throw some games at it, but Prime 95 yielded some pretty good results. The fans barely sped up at all, and it peaked at just 60 degrees with my fan curve. After the test, idle dropped down to 29 degrees. My GPU is idling at 29, as well.
Also, since I could no longer use 2x 120mm fans, I replaced it the pair of 120mm Ultra Sleek Vortex fans with one of the 140mm variety.
The 120s had a hissing sound to them that the 140 greatly reduces (only noticeable up close, instead of in the seating position)
I'll run it through the gaming wringer later, but idle and Prime 95 are good.
It also strikes me that the C14 would be pretty difficult to get in, given that the USB3 cable is already pushing against the lower fan on the C14s.
Finally: Cable routing is a lot easier with the gap at the front of the case opened up. Stuff all the ugly cable junk in there (I know some of you guys are wizards at cable routing. I... am not).
Edit:
Now to wait for that replacement 4-pin mini to 4-pin regular fan adapter.
I tried Snake Pass just now, which is a high-GPU, low-CPU game, and the CPU doesn't get hot enough for the fan to kick in on its regular curve, so I had to manually turn it up.
It'll be nice when I can properly get the GPU fans tied back to GPU temperature.
(running an Arctic Accelero Xtreme III on a GTX 1070 + a 7700k; temporarily running GPU fan speed off of a CPU-temperature sensor)
I'm using a SFX-L PSU, so it took a bit of creativity to get the SFX->ATX bracket in, but it was doable with some velcro Command strips. Those were just high enough to hold the two together, and a few minutes with the scissors got it so that they left the opening for the PSU to go in.
It's not as good as it would be if it were properly mounted... but there's no way that I'd get the GPU in without it.
There's juuuuust *barely* enough clearance for the power cable to fit onto the PSU in this configuration.
I still need to throw some games at it, but Prime 95 yielded some pretty good results. The fans barely sped up at all, and it peaked at just 60 degrees with my fan curve. After the test, idle dropped down to 29 degrees. My GPU is idling at 29, as well.
Also, since I could no longer use 2x 120mm fans, I replaced it the pair of 120mm Ultra Sleek Vortex fans with one of the 140mm variety.
The 120s had a hissing sound to them that the 140 greatly reduces (only noticeable up close, instead of in the seating position)
I'll run it through the gaming wringer later, but idle and Prime 95 are good.
It also strikes me that the C14 would be pretty difficult to get in, given that the USB3 cable is already pushing against the lower fan on the C14s.
Finally: Cable routing is a lot easier with the gap at the front of the case opened up. Stuff all the ugly cable junk in there (I know some of you guys are wizards at cable routing. I... am not).
Edit:
Now to wait for that replacement 4-pin mini to 4-pin regular fan adapter.
I tried Snake Pass just now, which is a high-GPU, low-CPU game, and the CPU doesn't get hot enough for the fan to kick in on its regular curve, so I had to manually turn it up.
It'll be nice when I can properly get the GPU fans tied back to GPU temperature.
(running an Arctic Accelero Xtreme III on a GTX 1070 + a 7700k; temporarily running GPU fan speed off of a CPU-temperature sensor)
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Yeah I got the idea from some images of full loop setups not realizing how much slimmer a water block on a GPU is :c
Chapeau
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Not to mention that a bottom radiator setup isn't likely to perform as well as you like unless you do some significant modding. From first hand experience I can tell you that a single bottom rad doesn't cut it for overclocking or gaming.
There are a bunch of bottom radiator builds, but they all have their quirks - show builds, low power builds, builds with additional radiators...
I tried two different radiators by themselves on the bottom before adding a second. I'd say at minimum if you use a bottom radiator, then you need at least a 92mm radiator additional.
Just thought I would throw my experience out there with GPU's and the various cooling options I have tried in the M1. In all cases, the CPU cooler used was the Noctua NH-U9S with two fans. The 120mm fans used were Noctua NF-F12's. Keep in mind that I am quite picky about noise. I tend to shoot for the best balance of noise -> performance with low noise being my priority.
TLDR: I found the NZXT G10 with Corsair H75 to be the most performant while offering the most pleasing noise profile. With the exception of building a custom loop, I think this may be the best option. Read the wall of text to find out why.
EVGA 970 ACX 2.0
EVGA 980 Ti Hybrid
Nvidia 1080 Founder's Edition
EVGA 1080 Ti Founder's Edition
EVGA 1080 Ti Founder's Edition (Accelero III with 2 NF-F12's as exhaust)
EVGA 1080 Ti Founder's Edition (NZXT G10 with Corsair H75)
TLDR: I found the NZXT G10 with Corsair H75 to be the most performant while offering the most pleasing noise profile. With the exception of building a custom loop, I think this may be the best option. Read the wall of text to find out why.
EVGA 970 ACX 2.0
EVGA 980 Ti Hybrid
Nvidia 1080 Founder's Edition
EVGA 1080 Ti Founder's Edition
EVGA 1080 Ti Founder's Edition (Accelero III with 2 NF-F12's as exhaust)
EVGA 1080 Ti Founder's Edition (NZXT G10 with Corsair H75)
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You should theoretically see an improvement in that GPU temp if you set that fan to intake. Do you have your PSU drawing air from the outside on the right side or do you have it flipped and intaking the air directly from the left hand side?
You are correct that the GPU temp will improve if the radiator fan is intake. This causes the CPU and PSU temps to spike up which causes those fans to become noisy. When I first got the EVGA 980 Ti Hybrid I had it set up as an intake and couldn't resolve the noise without switching to exhaust.
The PSU is drawing air from the outside. I have never had it set up the other way as that didn't seem to make sense to me. If others have had more success changing either of these things, I would appreciate hearing about it.
I don't tend to take many pictures while working on things so here is one picture to help remind me of the heatsink locations and some after shots with the NZXT G10.
I have the manual fan controller installed for the Corsair pump as I had concerns about the pump noise after using the EVGA 980 Ti Hybrid. Those concerns seem to be unfounded as the H75 pump @ 100% doesn't make any pump noise that I can hear. You can partially see the fan adapter coming from the GPU with the splitter that the radiator and NZXT G10 mounted fan are plugged into.
Interesting. I never would have thought the GPU would be affecting the PSU so much while the PSU is doing it's own dedicated intake/exhaust. It ultimately makes sense, though.
DarkForceRising
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New Noctua products announced today, including slim 120mm fans.
http://noctua.at/en/noctua-introduces-new-a-series-fans-and-accessories
http://noctua.at/en/noctua-introduces-new-a-series-fans-and-accessories
Look perfect for bottom rads. Hope they perform well.
Chapeau
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Gaaaaaah finally!
Indeed. I've taken my panel off to note that it was spinning, but I think the other ambient noise from fans outweighs that particular fan. It doesn't seem to have an annoying enough fan profile to really get me to notice it. Of course at idle I don't notice it at all and my system is dead silent if I'm not playing a game.
Qrash
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I highly recommend using a USB 3 Extension cable to shift the connection to the front panel to a better location, as in this photo:
This multi-coloured cable was recently replaced by the black one that is linked above.
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Neapolitan6th
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Forgive my ignorance, but would the release of noctua's 15mm thick 120mm fan allow for a push/pull configuration that was previously only possible (with high quality fans) with the original C14?
If not, could this successfully be applied to other popular top-down coolers?
If not, could this successfully be applied to other popular top-down coolers?