Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Great build! Did you tried a 10-12mm thick 120mm fan at bottom, a little bit more airflow is never bad. I have similar setup and components (alphacool GPU block, 240mm radiator at side etc.), but I get GPU < 42°C and CPU < 55°C intresseting why your GPU is hotter than your CPU, normally the GPU should be lower temps at this kind of setup.
crap... just realized 1080 TI FE doesn't have dual-dvi. Can't use my monitor :/
Anyone tried MSI Armor? I read that MSI doesnt void warranty for using third party heatsink, so I'll reuse my Accelero IV.
Why dont you just use the original 140mm fan that came with the c14s under the heatsink, thats what i did.Managed to get my hand on a used Noctua C14 with Noctua P12 after having built my NCASE with a Noctua C14S and a Silverstone FW121.
In term of temperature performance both are hitting max 87° with a 7700k non delidded after 20mn of Prime95. The C14 is not better than the C14s.
The difference is in the noise, at the max RPM the FW121 is loud where the P12 at max RPM is more quiet.
But if you put a low noise adaptor on the FW121 and you add a Noctua P12 on pull under the C14s the noise and performance are similar. Very small noise advantage to the C14 with the P12 tough at max RPM, idle you don't have a difference.
Unfortunately I don't have a sonometer to take precise measure of the noise.
I also tried to put a second Noctua P12 on the fan bracket with the C14 and it didn't change the max temperature still 87°C.
C14S:
C14 with one Noctua P12
C14 with two Noctua P12 side by side.
I'm going to delid the CPU during the weekend and post back the result.
I'm looking at case fans, and had some questions. Specifically for side-panel fans to be used with an air-cooler (either dual 120s or a single over the PSU), with an emphasis on silence:
Which 120mm Noctua is best?
Are there any 120s that are comparable/better than the Noctuas that don't look like ass?
Will a 140 fit next to a 120?
What about slim fans? Are they all appreciably noiser than the standard width?
How does PWM compressed to non-PWM, and should I be concerned about hardware/software support thereof?
Do all of the above also apply to fans below the GPU, or are there better ones in that role?
Fractal Design is finally delivering their 240 AIO cooler on May 12th for $110
http://aphnetworks.com/reviews/fractal-design-celsius-s24
The Kabuto 2 cooler I am using seems fine, but the GPU temps on my setup are out of control. The GPU is by far the toughest component to cool in this case. I am torn between going full water or getting one of the EVGA or Corsair Hybrid GPUs. Vega might also offer an AIO version like the Fury X
p3z I think I may pull trigger on EVGA 1080 Ti SC BE. Quick question on your temps. I just stalked your posts to find temp data. Just wondering. Do you always keep your case open? Did you keep data on temps without bottom fans + closed case? I checked your pics and the case was open.
Havent done much research, but so far I also read that EVGA doesnt void warranty when installing third party coolers. I might reuse my Arctic Accelero IV on it. I think if it was able to cool my 290X, it should be able to cool every other GPU that it could fit on
I had my eyes on the MSI/Corsair Seahawk or EVGA Hybrid for a while, and I am surprised that the Arctic Accelero beat these CLC setups. I might reconsider if you had better results with the Accelero.
I currently have a G1 Gaming GTX970 which is a triple fan open cooler similar to the Accelero, and it can get pretty hot and noisy when gaming. What does your M1 setup look like?
Hi,
Has anyone tried using the EVGA CLC 120 in an NCASE? It's the only Gen 5 Asetek pump that's 120mm and a normal thickness of rad. As gen 5 pumps are actually quiet, this could be the solution to double AIO without the nouse problems.
I'm curious about this as well. Now that my system is as quiet as I think it's going to get, the pump noise from my H75 is all I hear. Thankfully my air purifier has enough ambient noise to drown it out.
Upgraded some parts of my build and redid the loop. Let me know what you guys think.
http://imgur.com/a/F6W6M
Based on someone who owns the EVGA hybrid kit, the tubes are quite flexible. The tubing looks similar, so I asked someone who owns a kit if it would be possible to bend the tubes like we see in some of the photos here. They said it should fit.
I'm hopeful, but someone needs to give it a shot and test.
Nice plant. Seriously though nice looking build. I went the same way with black sleeving, black tubing and chrome fittings. Think it looks sharp.
Question for you, I had thought about adding a 120mm like you have mounted. Any chance you tested your temps with just the 240mm radiator and if so how much difference did it make?
I have a 120mm HWlabs radiator just gathering dust.
I'm terrible at cable routing and don't have a current picture, but it's basically:
Rear exhaust: Noctua 92mm
Side intake: 2x Prolimatech Ultra Sleek Vortex 120mm Fan
CPU cooler: Noctua C14s
CPU fan:Noctua NF-F12 (Note: I still need to figure out how to properly mount this to the C14s. It's loose and causing vibration noise when it spins up; After tracking down some (not included) clips, I found that they didn't quite latch right so they didn't help)
GPU Heatsink: Arctic Accelero Extreme III
GPU fans: 2x Be Quiet Silent Wings III (exhaust)
Probably the biggest thing that makes a difference compared to the Gigabyte Xtreme Gaming (another 3-slot cooler) using 120mm fans is that with the Accelero, there isn't a gap (or at least, it's a very small one) between the heatsink and the fans.
My Ryzen 1700 is done!!!
A bit messy, I did clean up a bit later. GPU is MSI 1070 with EVGA hybrid kit.
I havnt overclocked yet. I'm also waiting for PCI-E riser to give a bit more room on cables since I removed the hard drive on the bottom.
Looks good, so what are your thoughts on the Biostar motherboard?
Careful with memory. I bought Fortis 2666 but they didnt work. I dont know if the memory were bad or just not compatible. Check QVL.
The board itself runs cool. The choke and capacitors are not as hot as my old H97 board. They are barely warm to touch. The board works as intended.
Haha, I just want to give AMD a chance since I used AMD athlon more than 10 years ago on my first built. I'm excited to be back on AMD side. Good luck to you.Good luck with your build, I know memory has been the Achilles heel for Ryzen since release. I am waiting on Asrock to release an AM4 itx board, I have been really impressed with my Z270 Fatl1ty. I had planned on a Ryzen build for sure as soon as they released a motherboard I wanted, but now Intel is hinting at a 6 core i5. If it is released still compatible with the 1151 socket I might stick with Intel. Decisions, decisions.
Good luck with your build, I know memory has been the Achilles heel for Ryzen since release. I am waiting on Asrock to release an AM4 itx board, I have been really impressed with my Z270 Fatl1ty. I had planned on a Ryzen build for sure as soon as they released a motherboard I wanted, but now Intel is hinting at a 6 core i5. If it is released still compatible with the 1151 socket I might stick with Intel. Decisions, decisions.
Did I read that Intel was going with a 2066 pin setup on these rumored new cpus?Good luck with your build, I know memory has been the Achilles heel for Ryzen since release. I am waiting on Asrock to release an AM4 itx board, I have been really impressed with my Z270 Fatl1ty. I had planned on a Ryzen build for sure as soon as they released a motherboard I wanted, but now Intel is hinting at a 6 core i5. If it is released still compatible with the 1151 socket I might stick with Intel. Decisions, decisions.
Did I read that Intel was going with a 2066 pin setup on these rumored new cpus?
Anyone know the odds of stuffing a MSI 1070 Seahawk and a SilverStone Technology Tundra Series TD02-SLIM AIO 240mm rad on the bottom? The Sea Hawk is 40mm thick and the Silverstone setup is 37mm (22mm Rad + 15mm fans).
I could potentially make the rad/fan setup a few mm thinner by using slip streams (12mm).
Only reason I'm asking is because I have yet to receive my Ncase, and I really want to cut a glass window in my case, which would not hold the same aesthetics with the normal radiator solution in place.
Zero.
With a 2 slot (40 mm thick) graphics card installed there is just enough space under it for 25 mm thick fans.
Anyone know the odds of stuffing a MSI 1070 Seahawk and a SilverStone Technology Tundra Series TD02-SLIM AIO 240mm rad on the bottom? The Sea Hawk is 40mm thick and the Silverstone setup is 37mm (22mm Rad + 15mm fans).
I could potentially make the rad/fan setup a few mm thinner by using slip streams (12mm).
Only reason I'm asking is because I have yet to receive my Ncase, and I really want to cut a glass window in my case, which would not hold the same aesthetics with the normal radiator solution in place.
Ok I am confused, are you asking if you can mount both the Silverstone 240mm AIO and the 120mm radiator from the Seahawk in the bottom of the case? With the slim fans the Silverstone AIO should fit and if you used a slim fan on the Seahawk radiator it should fit, but not together.
Edit: Just realized that people using bottom mounted radiators are also using waterblocks on their graphics cards which are only single slot. I doubt you can fit a 25mm radiator and fan below a dual slot graphics card.
Yeah I got the idea from some images of full loop setups not realizing how much slimmer a water block on a GPU is :c
This wasn't ideal, extra fans on the bottom in exhaust or intake didn't help at all. Creating a custom duct might have helped some, but it just dumped too much heat into the rest of the computer.
This stayed near the thermal throttling limit at a somewhat uncomfortable noise level. Overclocking was limited because of all of the aformentioned results.
This performed very well, and stayed nice and cool. I had issues with the pump harmonics and I had to order a custom cable from moddiy overseas to manually control the pump RPM. Setting the pump to 70-80% got rid of the audible buzz.
I started with the radiator fan set to intake which would cause the power supply to spin up due to the heat. I eventually settled on exhaust for the radiator fan. Noise at load was hardly audible from 3 feet.
This performed surprisingly well. It managed to stay between 76 and 82 with no throttling and minimal added heat to the case. Blower card living up to its name for the Ncase M1.
Overclocking was limited as it would hit thermal throttling relatively quickly if I wanted it to remain somewhat quiet at load. The noise level was surprisingly tolerable at stock settings with a slightly adjusted fan curve. If you don't plan to overclock, this is a perfectly viable option.
Very similar to the 1080 above. I was able to find a comfortable balance between the load temperature and noise profile at stock settings. It boosted to 1797 and would stay there at stock settings hovering around 84C. Overclocking was more or less out of the picture unless you live in a wind turbine and want the stock blower set on 100%.
I opted to use thermal tape instead of the included adhesive which mostly did the trick for the heatsinks. At stock settings with the power target set to 120%, the card would now boost to 1850ish range and stay in the high 60's.
With a tweaked fan curve, 120% power boost, and +200 core / +450 memory on the card it would boost to 1979 and eventually throttle down to 1949 in the Time Spy stress test near the end. With lengthy stress on the card, it would hover between 75 and 80 with moderate fan noise. Overall it was slightly quieter than the founder's edition adjusted fan curve with more performance.
Installation was a breeze and I left all of the heatsinks on from the Accelero installation. NZXT documentation states that you don't actually need the heatsinks but they can only help. I changed the fan on the G10 to Noctua NF-A9 and used an NF-F12 as the radiator fan in exhaust without any fans bottom mounted.
120% power boost, +225 core / +450 memory and it now boosts to around 2050 and stays there. The card idles at 29C and loads after stressing in the lower 60's at a very comfortable fan curve. No audible buzz on the Corsair AIO and both fans are controlled by the GPU's fan curve using this.
Just thought I would throw my experience out there with GPU's and the various cooling options I have tried in the M1. In all cases, the CPU cooler used was the Noctua NH-U9S with two fans. The 120mm fans used were Noctua NF-F12's. Keep in mind that I am quite picky about noise. I tend to shoot for the best balance of noise -> performance with low noise being my priority.
TLDR: I found the NZXT G10 with Corsair H75 to be the most performant while offering the most pleasing noise profile. With the exception of building a custom loop, I think this may be the best option. Read the wall of text to find out why.
EVGA 970 ACX 2.0
EVGA 980 Ti Hybrid
Nvidia 1080 Founder's Edition
EVGA 1080 Ti Founder's Edition
EVGA 1080 Ti Founder's Edition (Accelero III with 2 NF-F12's as exhaust)
EVGA 1080 Ti Founder's Edition (NZXT G10 with Corsair H75)
You are correct that the GPU temp will improve if the radiator fan is intake. This causes the CPU and PSU temps to spike up which causes those fans to become noisy. When I first got the EVGA 980 Ti Hybrid I had it set up as an intake and couldn't resolve the noise without switching to exhaust.You should theoretically see an improvement in that GPU temp if you set that fan to intake. Do you have your PSU drawing air from the outside on the right side or do you have it flipped and intaking the air directly from the left hand side?
Fleat, do you mind taking a picture of your system with the G10?
You are correct that the GPU temp will improve if the radiator fan is intake. This causes the CPU and PSU temps to spike up which causes those fans to become noisy. When I first got the EVGA 980 Ti Hybrid I had it set up as an intake and couldn't resolve the noise without switching to exhaust.
The PSU is drawing air from the outside. I have never had it set up the other way as that didn't seem to make sense to me. If others have had more success changing either of these things, I would appreciate hearing about it.
View attachment 25157 View attachment 25158 View attachment 25159
I don't tend to take many pictures while working on things so here is one picture to help remind me of the heatsink locations and some after shots with the NZXT G10.
I have the manual fan controller installed for the Corsair pump as I had concerns about the pump noise after using the EVGA 980 Ti Hybrid. Those concerns seem to be unfounded as the H75 pump @ 100% doesn't make any pump noise that I can hear. You can partially see the fan adapter coming from the GPU with the splitter that the radiator and NZXT G10 mounted fan are plugged into.
Interesting. I never would have thought the GPU would be affecting the PSU so much while the PSU is doing it's own dedicated intake/exhaust. It ultimately makes sense, though.
New Noctua products announced today, including slim 120mm fans.
http://noctua.at/en/noctua-introduces-new-a-series-fans-and-accessories
Gaaaaaah finally!New Noctua products announced today, including slim 120mm fans.
http://noctua.at/en/noctua-introduces-new-a-series-fans-and-accessories
It is quite a pita to be honest. I am using the Corsair SF600 which I have read has a more aggressive temperature based fan profile than the SF450 (and maybe the Silverstone). YMMV on the PSU side.
It also strikes me that the C14 would be pretty difficult to get in, given that the USB3 cable is already pushing against the lower fan on the C14s.