i7-5820k to i7-7700k. Will I see an improvement?

Will you see improvement? Well, maybe up to 5-10 fps at 1080p depending on how much the game loves higher Hz. Is it worth it? No way. Don't even bother contemplating platform change for gaming now. You can try to get more OC from your CPU, but that's it. These comparison sites are stupid btw, and never reflect the true performance. They simply measure numbers in specs.
 
No. Not worth the move.
I'd rather overclock the hex core 5820 and use for longevity over the 4 core 7700k.

If you game at 1440p or 4k there probably won't be more than a single frame or two rate of difference between the two CPUs on anything.
 
Will you see improvement? Well, maybe up to 5-10 fps at 1080p depending on how much the game loves higher Hz. Is it worth it? No way. Don't even bother contemplating platform change for gaming now. You can try to get more OC from your CPU, but that's it. These comparison sites are stupid btw, and never reflect the true performance. They simply measure numbers in specs.
No. Not worth the move.
I'd rather overclock the hex core 5820 and use for longevity over the 4 core 7700k.

If you game at 1440p or 4k there probably won't be more than a single frame or two rate of difference between the two CPUs on anything.

Thanks. The main reason why I was asking was because i've been running into a LOT of strange things with my computer lately. Crashes, freezes... and I am trying to narrow it down to what it could be. I keep thinking either the 5820k runs too hot at 1.2v @ 4GHz or it's possible that I recently seated the CPU inefficiently because my temps keep slowly rising to close to 90c. Is there maybe a simple water cooler that I could buy that would be better? I have the best air cooler on the market, the Be Quiet Dark Rock Pro 3, but I am just not running the temps and frequencies I want to see. People have been telling me I should be getting 4.2GHz easily with my CPU and even 4.4 on air, but the amount of tinkering with voltages and multipliers today along with multiple stress tests the best I can do is 4GHz @ 1.2v and even then the temps get close to 88c and sometimes 90 if I leave prime95 running a long enough time. Any lower of a voltage and I run into stability problems.
 
Thanks. The main reason why I was asking was because i've been running into a LOT of strange things with my computer lately. Crashes, freezes... and I am trying to narrow it down to what it could be. I keep thinking either the 5820k runs too hot at 1.2v @ 4GHz or it's possible that I recently seated the CPU inefficiently because my temps keep slowly rising to close to 90c. Is there maybe a simple water cooler that I could buy that would be better? I have the best air cooler on the market, the Be Quiet Dark Rock Pro 3, but I am just not running the temps and frequencies I want to see.

Look into a corsair 110i or 115i. If not room for those check out the 80i

Excellent products!
 
That Dark Rock Pro 3 is a good heatsink. Moving to a different cooling solution may be a premature decision.

If your heatsink is undamaged and properly mounted with thermal paste, and the heatsink's fans are spinning at 1K+ RPM, and your case fans are working adequately to remove heat from the case, and your room isn't sweltering hot, then that's all you can do, and moving to a *SLIGHTLY* better Corsair H110 / H115 (or even a significantly better $400+ custom water-cooling setup) isn't going to help your overclock much at all.

I'd re-seat the heatsink and reapply thermal paste (a generous centered blob or X) as a first step to make sure the heatsink is making good, flat contact with the CPU's heatspreader. If your temps drop 15C suddenly, then great. If stability doesn't return, then consider a clean Windows 10 install (drivers / settings).

Have you tested your RAM for errors ? That's a common culprit for instability: Memtest86 is updated, whereas Memtest86+ is not because it's a fork of the original, which went closed-source. Windows also has a memory diagnostic tool, I think you just run mdsched.exe. I'm not sure if HCi Memtest is still recommended, but it was a convenient windows-based tester, and possibly worked nearly as well as Memtest86. It also supported multiple simultaneous instances, divvying the total RAM between them. 6 cores and 12 threads could make quick work of the test.

The motherboard could also be faulty, but that's harder to diagnose.

The HAF 912 seems free-flowing enough, but, again, make sure the fans are doing their job, or test with the case door open and a fan pointed in the case.

What are your room ambient temps? If your computer room is hotter than hell, then that might be a problem.

Still, it's possible you got a Lemon of a CPU that is only capable of 4Ghz... If there are Golden CPUs, then there are Lemons...

Lastly, if you don't feel like doing all of this, I'd at least hold out for Coffee Lake you can retain your 6C/12T.
 
im at 4.4ghz 5930k with whatever settings my Asrock extreme4 x99 profile put with a H115i, doesnt go to 70C.

I think you should keep your CPU and find out why your heatsink isnt heatsinking. 90C is a lot for any heatsink.
 
OC it for now, look at Coffee Lake in august if you dont need the HEDT quachannel and extra PCIe lanes. And if you need those, move to SKL-X in the end of this month.
 
If your heatsink is undamaged and properly mounted with thermal paste, and the heatsink's fans are spinning at 1K+ RPM, and your case fans are working adequately to remove heat from the case, and your room isn't sweltering hot, then that's all you can do, and moving to a *SLIGHTLY* better Corsair H110 / H115 (or even a significantly better $400+ custom water-cooling setup) isn't going to help your overclock much at all.

I haven't been monitoring the fans on the cpu cooler; are those RPMs something I can control myself the way that we can control GPU fan speeds? If so would it be a good idea?
 
Something people often neglect to account when comparing traditional air coolers to closed loop water coolers is that air coolers exhaust the CPU heat INSIDE the computer case which can lead to heat soaking and slow temperature creep ups like what the OP says he is experiencing. vs a water cooling system which by virtue of attaching the radiator to the side of the case ensures to exhaust CPU heat OUTSIDE the case. Thus, unless the entire room begins to heat up, the heat creep doesn't occur in the same way.

Also the O.P. has a 6 core Intel CPU - so obviously overclocking 6 cores generates more heat to dissipate than 4 cores. (which is how all these heat sink tests are performed - the numbers shown reflect.)

-------------

Corsair h110i GTX or h115i. (Same thing) water coolers look to be about 10* cooler under load than Be Quiet Dark Rock 3 on a lesser heat generating CPU in this testing.

http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/73...formance-liquid-cpu-cooler-review/index7.html

7320_30_corsair-hydro-series-h110i-gtx-cpu-cooler-review.png




Here is how this oft ill considered concept translates in REAL world use in my personal situation: (SAME Computer case - Cosmos 1010)

2012
yeah this case is no good for two GTX 560TI cards and my 4.0ghz processor. I just finished a hour dirt 2 session and my hard-drives are at 61*C and my top video card was at 100*C, bottom at 77* and my case temp system/system temp was at 55* and my CPU was at 80* and my VREG was at 82*. Nothing crashed - but I shudder a bit to think of these temps. There just insn't enough airflow to keep two cards running in SLI cool. I never had these problems with a single GTX460 or GTX560TI card, but with two - it's an oven.
I think I'm going to buy a single GTX 670 or 680 card and call it a day. This case works fine for single cards!
Because of this I moved quickly away from SLI. Just too much heat build up inside the PC case.

2016
Archaea said:
I thought I'd bump this old thread to say I'm happily running two Fury X cards in crossfire in my Cosmos 1010 case these days with a H80i v2 CPU cooler and I have NO heat problems. Exhausting the heat out of the case makes all the difference when you use a closed loop cooler. The fury x cards both have the closed loop cooler -- they are mounted to the top of the case, and the h80i v2 is mounted to the rear of the case. I have a standard 120mm led fan blowing in the bottom. My hard-drive and motherboard temps with this setup under gaming load top out at about 37* OH -- AND I'm running my CPU at 4.5Ghz on an overclock. That's a HUGE difference compared to my old experience with those GTI 560TI cards that required half the power draw of the Fury X. Same case. I love this case. I still plan to keep it for a long time to come. Still my favorite looking computer case I've ever seen.
More CPU heat, and much more video card heat from the higher wattage Fury X crossfire setup, and yet NOT one hint of thermal problems when CPU and GPUs were using water blocks (exhausting the heat outside the case) in the same PC case.
 
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I did this exact swap to a 5 ghz 7700k and yes it's worth it if you mostly game with your PC. I run at 1440p and my avg/min fps is higher in most games, especially in ARMA 3.
 
OC it for now, look at Coffee Lake in august if you dont need the HEDT quachannel and extra PCIe lanes. And if you need those, move to SKL-X in the end of this month.

zamardii12, Shintai's suggestion I quote is the best advice for now as it would be the worst time to consider buying a 7700K when you already have a 5820K even if it is temperamental.

Cheers
 
for gaming, you will not physically notice a 10% or so difference. you will see it in a benchmark but you probably won't feel the upgrade since you already have a very strong cpu.
 
Downgrading to 4 cores is not the best choice for you. I would wait to see what Coffee Lake brings for you, but if you look at Prey benchmarks 4 cores are not looking to be the best choice now and likely in more upcoming games.
 
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