GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Discussion Thread

Unless you overclock (which a true overclocker would use liquid anyway) they all operate and perform the same.
 
mls1995 said:
Anyone else notice they jacked the price from $119 to $159 today? Ouch! I tweeted to evga Jacob about it, that's quite a price gouge.
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It was up at $179.99 sometime during the weekend. Jacob said it was a fuck up after the outrage and said it's only supposed to be a $40 premium. Their excuse is that this is going to be a limited run part despite the interest from both Titan X owners who have been waiting 8 months and now all the added 1080 Ti owners...
 
Armenius said:
It was up at $179.99 sometime during the weekend. Jacob said it was a fuck up after the outrage and said it's only supposed to be a $40 premium. Their excuse is that this is going to be a limited run part despite the interest from both Titan X owners who have been waiting 8 months and now all the added 1080 Ti owners...
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They always seem to do that bullshit and have the kit in short supply and the same for the Hybrid models. Is there even any difference to the previous models in either plate/heatsink/radiator size or the distance of the mounting holes around the GPU?
 
kasakka said:
They always seem to do that bullshit and have the kit in short supply and the same for the Hybrid models. Is there even any difference to the previous models in either plate/heatsink/radiator size or the distance of the mounting holes around the GPU?
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The only changes that were probably made are to the midplate and shroud to accommodate components not on the 1080. Screw layout is exactly the same between the FE versions of the 1070, 1080, 1080 Ti and Titan X. As far as we know at the moment it is still using a standard thickness 120mm radiator.
 
Armenius said:
It was up at $179.99 sometime during the weekend. Jacob said it was a fuck up after the outrage and said it's only supposed to be a $40 premium. Their excuse is that this is going to be a limited run part despite the interest from both Titan X owners who have been waiting 8 months and now all the added 1080 Ti owners...
Click to expand...

Well if they don't know the price then they shouldn't list one. $40 price bump definitely puts a bad taste in my mouth.
 
I'm really happy with my MSI Armor. Couple hours of maxed out Witcher 3 and the highest temps I've gotten are 77 C. Probably won't overclock it as its giving me plenty of performance at stock.
 
Armenius said:
The only changes that were probably made are to the midplate and shroud to accommodate components not on the 1080. Screw layout is exactly the same between the FE versions of the 1070, 1080, 1080 Ti and Titan X. As far as we know at the moment it is still using a standard thickness 120mm radiator.
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So I guess you could probably just take a Hybrid kit meant for a 980 Ti or something and just mount the waterblock and pump on the card and use the stock midplate and fan if it's a FE card.
 
kasakka said:
So I guess you could probably just take a Hybrid kit meant for a 980 Ti or something and just mount the waterblock and pump on the card and use the stock midplate and fan if it's a FE card.
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Lots of people doing just that.
 
kasakka said:
So I guess you could probably just take a Hybrid kit meant for a 980 Ti or something and just mount the waterblock and pump on the card and use the stock midplate and fan if it's a FE card.
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I asked Arctic cooling if it was possible with their hybrid coolers, unfortunately not.
(not the same as EVGAs kit but thought it worth a mention)
 
I picked up one of the PNY FE 1080ti's and the temps idle around 47 and hit 79 under load. The heat is up there for sure but that PNY burn in smell kills me. Will be looking to add watercooling of some sort. I need these temps way down. Doesnt impact playability for sure. Card is rock solid on performance. FireStrike synthetic is a little over 17K so i'm pleased.
 
^^ wow 47c is a very high idle temp. How is your case ventilation? Mine idles at 29ish.. but it climbs like a rocket under heavy load and gets to 70 quick. I have a fairly aggressive fan profile now which I might need to back off on.

Yeah the FE cooler is struggling to keep this beast cool it seems like. Mine spools up like crazy and dumps heat out of the back. I will be adding an eVGA/Corsair AIO water cooler to this card eventually. I sort of wish I had held out for an AIB card like the MSI but the water cooler will be a fun project.
 
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My Accelero III cooler arrived today, spent an excited 2 hours gluing heatsinks on ...
GTX1080ti in limbo.jpg

... then found a spacer is missing to mount the main cooler, doh!
I'm in 2 minds what to do, ask for another spacer or cut up one of the unused 4mm spacers down to the needed 2.5mm.
I dont have precision tools to guarantee the size but I'm sure I can do it.
Thats a £700 risk though.

I've had some port so I'd best think about it tomorrow.
 
revenant said:
^^ wow 47c is a very high idle temp. How is your case ventilation? Mine idles at 29ish
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Mine idle at around that too, perhaps a little lower but not far off...nowhere near 29*C.

Mine are FE cards in SLI in a Corsair 540D. 3x 120mm in the front blowing, 120 (or 140) on the back exhausting out and the rad of my H100 on the top exhausting out...Ambient temps are probably in the mid-teens to mid-20s depending on the weather / whether the heating has been on in the house.
 
Are there any aftermarket coolers / hybrids that would permit an SLI setup? My motherboard setup means I only have a single slot between the cards (i.e. I use the 60mm nvidia HB bridge).

Basically, is there an aftermarket cooler that doesn't push the card beyond 2-slots?
 
Syphon Filter said:
Mine idle at around that too, perhaps a little lower but not far off...nowhere near 29*C.

Mine are FE cards in SLI in a Corsair 540D. 3x 120mm in the front blowing, 120 (or 140) on the back exhausting out and the rad of my H100 on the top exhausting out...Ambient temps are probably in the mid-teens to mid-20s depending on the weather / whether the heating has been on in the house.
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I'm using a raven case with all fans running on the medium profile. Needless to say, i have decent ventilation. The card just runs warmer than i'm used to. Granted, i originally had the MSI Sea Hawk GTX 980ti which ran extremely cool. I will be doing a water setup on this card at some point. I wont need a heater in the winter in my office until then.
 
So I guess you could probably just take a Hybrid kit meant for a 980 Ti or something and just mount the waterblock and pump on the card and use the stock midplate and fan if it's a FE card.
Click to expand...

I just posted a comparison of nzxt g10 AiO bracket and evga cooler kit about 13 replies ago, including some pictures of how I did it on my 780ti sc acx's in the past. I plan on using the same parts and kits on my new cards once they are in stock.

https://hardforum.com/threads/geforce-gtx-1080-ti-discussion-thread.1926115/page-12#post-1042915488

-------------------------------------------
My Accelero III cooler arrived today, spent an excited 2 hours gluing heatsinks on ...


... then found a spacer is missing to mount the main cooler, doh!
I'm in 2 minds what to do, ask for another spacer or cut up one of the unused 4mm spacers down to the needed 2.5mm.
I dont have precision tools to guarantee the size but I'm sure I can do it.
Thats a £700 risk though.

I've had some port so I'd best think about it tomorrow.
Click to expand...
Personally after screwing around with heatsinks before, I decided to get ACX cards (now ICX) since they have full mid plates for heat dissipation and protection of the card components. The mid plates also add card rigidity.

ICX mid plate (from a 1080 ftw icx). I'm waiting on 1080ti FTW3 ICX stock and will just transfer my existing 780ti sc (acx midplate) AiO setup over.

NobWEcJ.png
 
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Syphon Filter said:
You won't need a heater after that either. It will still dissipate the same amount of heat...;)
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lol, i suppose so. I just recall with the 980ti watercooled, the temps under heavy gaming never got above 40s. I have to leave my door open on the office now, with fan on and still a huge difference on the other side of the door. I've gotten spoiled to watercooling and forgot how much of a difference it really made until now. WCing FTW!
 
Syphon Filter said:
Mine idle at around that too, perhaps a little lower but not far off...nowhere near 29*C.

Mine are FE cards in SLI in a Corsair 540D. 3x 120mm in the front blowing, 120 (or 140) on the back exhausting out and the rad of my H100 on the top exhausting out...Ambient temps are probably in the mid-teens to mid-20s depending on the weather / whether the heating has been on in the house.
Click to expand...

Yeah I think that's default-ish actually, esp for SLI.. I do have intense air cooling and I had my fan profile engaged from my 1080 as soon as I started afterburner to check the temps.
 
This is my AiO setup conversion originally. I later put the mid plates back on vs droop and for added protection, straightening the gpus out. (I'm looking forward to the 1080ti FTW ICX's which not only come with a mid plate but also a back plate if I remember correctly). I also swapped in a h100i v2 cpu cooler at some point as well and oriented it correctly, cleaned things up a little but that is essentially the layout. A little rough and mad max-ish with the sleeving but I love it. The black octopus.
 
ICX front/back plates shown here from the gtx 1080 ftw / sc ..

http://www.gamersnexus.net/hwreview...2-sc2-icx-in-depth-thermal-analysis?showall=1

The back-side of the PCB also shows a tremendous improvement, with the green line indicating we’ve now mostly achieved parity with the front-side FET temperatures. This is largely attributable to the new backplate and the additional thermal pads, which work to ensure the backplate doesn’t become a hotbox for the VRM backside.
Click to expand...
 
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elvn said:
Personally after screwing around with heatsinks before, I decided to get ACX cards (now ICX) since they have full mid plates for heat dissipation and protection of the card components. The mid plates also add card rigidity.

ICX mid plate (from a 1080 ftw icx). I'm waiting on 1080ti FTW3 ICX stock and will just transfer my existing 780ti sc (acx midplate) AiO setup over.
Click to expand...
I didnt want to wait to buy a card nor pay silly money for the cooler.
Its not for the faint of heart though, it was a pita to fit so I understand from that perspective.

Anyway, I decided to cut the missing spacer from a larger spare and got it working.
Temps are better than expected and its really bloody quiet!
During normal gaming overclocked it maxes around 52C to 54C, under long term stress testing it reached 59C. Ambient 21C.
Core clocks range from 1987 to 2025 when pushed hard. It downclocks under normal use because its quite hard to get high enough GPU use at 1080p, even using 4K DSR.
Memory clock has increased from +420MHz to +450MHz and may go higher, not fully tested yet.

Quite interesting, I couldnt raise the core +MHz any higher otherwise it would crash under stress testing.
It gives an auto clock increase of +39MHz due to the lower temps.

My main goal of making it silent and reducing temps drastically has been achieved and got a few % performance boost as well.
All for £52 and a pita.

Some piccies of the trauma.
The backplate at the end of the card needs fitting which required a bit of effort because the nuts (that take the rear plate holding screws) screw into the original cooler.
If you can get some nuts to bind them, thats a better approach. I couldnt find any locally so made my own from a supermarket plastic curry pot. Worked brilliantly.

001.jpg 002.jpg 003.jpg 004.jpg 005.jpg 006.jpg 007.jpg 008.jpg 009.jpg 010.jpg
 
Just to add to the anecdotes here, I was hitting 84c (Dan A4 ITX case) and by just upping my fan curve to a very aggressive 60% I eliminated throttling (maxing out at 78c now) and saw increases in scores in Firestrike, FS Ultra, PassMark, and +8.3 FPS in Unigine Heaven. I'm sort of surprised that just 10% and making it ramp up faster made that drastic a difference.
 
Nenu said:
I didnt want to wait to buy a card nor pay silly money for the cooler.
Its not for the faint of heart though, it was a pita to fit so I understand from that perspective.

Anyway, I decided to cut the missing spacer from a larger spare and got it working.
Temps are better than expected and its really bloody quiet!
During normal gaming overclocked it maxes around 52C to 54C, under long term stress testing it reached 59C. Ambient 21C.
Core clocks range from 1987 to 2025 when pushed hard. It downclocks under normal use because its quite hard to get high enough GPU use at 1080p, even using 4K DSR.
Memory clock has increased from +420MHz to +450MHz and may go higher, not fully tested yet.

Quite interesting, I couldnt raise the core +MHz any higher otherwise it would crash under stress testing.
It gives an auto clock increase of +39MHz due to the lower temps.

My main goal of making it silent and reducing temps drastically has been achieved and got a few % performance boost as well.
All for £52 and a pita.

Some piccies of the trauma.
The backplate at the end of the card needs fitting which required a bit of effort because the nuts (that take the rear plate holding screws) screw into the original cooler.
If you can get some nuts to bind them, thats a better approach. I couldnt find any locally so made my own from a supermarket plastic curry pot. Worked brilliantly.

View attachment 21342 View attachment 21343 View attachment 21344 View attachment 21345 View attachment 21346 View attachment 21347 View attachment 21348 View attachment 21349 View attachment 21350 View attachment 21351
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Awesome work! I have an arctic accellero hybrid-II that I was thinking of using on my 1080 ti but the time spent installing the ram sinks is making it so I don't know if I want to do that again.... lol. Well done on the work performed! 70C+ or 50's like you see, man that 2 hours sounds worth it!
 
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If you want to try a game that brings the 1080ti to it's knees try Metro Last Light on Very High and all the settings at Max was getting about 30-34 FPS on a 1440p monitor just a stutter fest. If you go down to High you get about 70 FPS.
 
Syphon Filter said:
Mine idle at around that too, perhaps a little lower but not far off...nowhere near 29*C.

Mine are FE cards in SLI in a Corsair 540D. 3x 120mm in the front blowing, 120 (or 140) on the back exhausting out and the rad of my H100 on the top exhausting out...Ambient temps are probably in the mid-teens to mid-20s depending on the weather / whether the heating has been on in the house.
Click to expand...
My room temp is 76F (24C).
I just checked and my SLI FE cards are idling at 29C (top card) and 30C (bottom card) without Afterburner running (I only run AB when I play games).
With Afterburner running for 10 minutes and 40% fan speed, they are now idling at 26C and 29C, respectively.
My case (Lian Li in sig) isn't really the best for airflow. Only 1 120mm fan in front, some holes in the side panel and 1 120mm fan in the back behind the CPU plus the PSU above (fan only spins under high load). System sits on floor under desk so it is sucking in the coolest air nearest the floor.
These SLI 1080Ti FE's idle at about the same temps as my SLI 1080FE's did. Maybe 1C cooler, actually.
Somewhat aggressive fan profile in Afterburner nets me around 70-74C under full SLI load which is about the same as it was with the 1080 FE's. Lighter games are around 65C or less. I generally try to keep it under 70C if possible. I don't overclock the cards and only just recently started OCing the CPU mildly.
Things like this make me wonder if the temperature readings I'm seeing are even accurate. Your cooler room and better case cooling should give you lower temps than me for sure.
 
You know what I find funny and also nasty at the same time. New Titan XP buyers aren't even a part of the pick your own game promotion. I just realized that. So you drop 1200 on one dam card and you don't even get a free game? Lol Jesus. So not cool.
 
Nenu said:
I didnt want to wait to buy a card nor pay silly money for the cooler.
Its not for the faint of heart though, it was a pita to fit so I understand from that perspective.

Anyway, I decided to cut the missing spacer from a larger spare and got it working.
Temps are better than expected and its really bloody quiet!
During normal gaming overclocked it maxes around 52C to 54C, under long term stress testing it reached 59C. Ambient 21C.
Core clocks range from 1987 to 2025 when pushed hard. It downclocks under normal use because its quite hard to get high enough GPU use at 1080p, even using 4K DSR.
Memory clock has increased from +420MHz to +450MHz and may go higher, not fully tested yet.

Quite interesting, I couldnt raise the core +MHz any higher otherwise it would crash under stress testing.
It gives an auto clock increase of +39MHz due to the lower temps.

My main goal of making it silent and reducing temps drastically has been achieved and got a few % performance boost as well.
All for £52 and a pita.

Some piccies of the trauma.
The backplate at the end of the card needs fitting which required a bit of effort because the nuts (that take the rear plate holding screws) screw into the original cooler.
If you can get some nuts to bind them, thats a better approach. I couldnt find any locally so made my own from a supermarket plastic curry pot. Worked brilliantly.

View attachment 21342 View attachment 21343 View attachment 21344 View attachment 21345 View attachment 21346 View attachment 21347 View attachment 21348 View attachment 21349 View attachment 21350 View attachment 21351
Click to expand...


This is spectacular!! This is true [H] level shit right here lol!! Bravo.
 
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Are there any other options besides the EVGA hybrid kit? Seems like those are going to be about as common as hens teeth thanks to EVGA fucking it away (again). I read that EK was coming out with some kind of kit that worked with them? I'm considering building a full loop but I have other things I want to spend money on right now, only reason I even bought the 1080ti is because I had $400 in dell rewards to put towards it.
 
LigTasm said:
Are there any other options besides the EVGA hybrid kit? Seems like those are going to be about as common as hens teeth thanks to EVGA fucking it away (again). I read that EK was coming out with some kind of kit that worked with them? I'm considering building a full loop but I have other things I want to spend money on right now, only reason I even bought the 1080ti is because I had $400 in dell rewards to put towards it.
Click to expand...

NXZT G10 bracket + any of the Asetek coolers from that same period with the same mount.
545lc.jpg

There are a bunch of different brands who used this type of unit. NZXT, Corsair, Kuhler, Zalman etc. etc.

If you're in Australia I have a set for sale - if not, I'm sure you can find some end of life stock on ebay quite cheaply!
 
Chapeau said:
NXZT G10 bracket + any of the Asetek coolers from that same period with the same mount.
There are a bunch of different brands who used this type of unit. NZXT, Corsair, Kuhler, Zalman etc. etc.

If you're in Australia I have a set for sale - if not, I'm sure you can find some end of life stock on ebay quite cheaply!
Click to expand...

Yeah, I had considered that. I had the G10 when it first came out on a pair of 290X and I didn't particularly like anything about it. Before I went that route I would just get a cooler from a different Hybrid kit and run without the shroud. I was more looking for a clean installed option, thanks though.
 
Comixbooks said:
If you want to try a game that brings the 1080ti to it's knees try Metro Last Light on Very High and all the settings at Max was getting about 30-34 FPS on a 1440p monitor just a stutter fest. If you go down to High you get about 70 FPS.
Click to expand...

That's because at it's highest settings it uses one of, if not the most inefficient and expensive form of AA there is
 
I've been playing Metro Last Light with my Ti on very high @ 1440 with no issues. I don't max out the SSAA. Actually, i don't find the game really needs it as it also runs with some version of FXAA by default any way. Even 2X still runs at a high framerate. Above that just seems to be pointless as I can't really see a difference in 0 and 2x. With the SSAA off I am running around the 144 fps mark.
 
Guys I just got the Gigabyte Aorus Xteme card in and went to install it and after turning on my rig I hear some weird clicking, scraping sound. It sounded like something was interfering with one of the fans.

Check this out. One of the fins on the left most fan was scraping against that bar there. I guess that one was a little too long. I didn't see any other marks on the other fins. Nice quality control Gigabyte.

9kGheJD.jpg
 
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